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I think the part is about $45 at most parts stores, and it is only 2 , 8 mm screws that hold it on, make sure you line up the flat part on the shaft, I read where someone else goofed that part up and had to do it a second time.
There is an idle adjustment before you fully tighten it up,and you may need to back probe the wires with a volt meter, I am having some problem when my van engine compartment gets hot and I may be replacing mine, just because the part is fairly cheap and I guess it can cause many drivability problems if it is gong bad.
I had a similar problem last year but mine was losing power after warm and the timing was getting all screwed up, that was the distributor. I have read that you can clean the optics, but mine was not dirty. I found a rebuilt on Ebay for
$105
Right now I have some intermittent problem where my van get warm, and shuts off, When I try and restart the check engine light is on,,,,,,,
Let it set over night the check engine light is gone.. and the van runs fine again.
Last night i ran it in the driveway for 2 hours and it did not quit...... I need to do this several more times to see if the problem comes back, this van it not on the road and needs a full brake job, and I am hesitating doing the brakes until I solve this quitting problem. this will be a third a car for my kid to drive, and I have to make sure it does not just shut off while he is driving it....
If I can 't figure it out in the next couple weeks, I will be junking it........hate to do that because when its running it runs very well.
Definetly read forum 52 with the header of 1995 Villager Knock Sensor/TPS Sensor
this describes a very similar problem that you have...... TPS solved it.
One thing you may want to check it to verify all of the Grounds from your battery look good. One other person on this forum have a loose ground connection that was causing some problems ,,,
See if there is a stored code....
Now I think it might be time to go to a Nissan Dealer...Maybe go and tell them the very specific problem and see if they have any suggestions. Give them as much deteiled information that you can get.. EX, Van runs good until warm.... ETC
See if they have a set price on doing the diagnostics....And again, the Knock sensor code is usually a result of something else causing the engine to run bad and to cause it to knock...The component replacement guessing game gets to be frustrating. Sorry the TPS sensor was not the home run, but I think it was the most logical try with the problems you described.
Right now I have a similar problem with my van, I'm kind of stuck because It is not currently on the road, was going to be a third vehicle for my teenager, and needs brakes. I do not want to put all of the brakes on until I find the problem with the engine. My nearest Nissan dealer is over 30 miles away
The problem I have is whe the van first runs. it runs great.. if I run it for about 1 hour, it shuts off, and then will not start, runs very rough, like the timing is not good, Check engine light is on...
After it cools down the check engine light is gone, and it runs fine again.
Pulled codes I think one was the knock sensor....
The other was Ignition, problem...... Can't remember the exact code.
I just purchased a third vehicle and the Van it too good to just junk.... and I will not sell it to someone else knowing it has a problem with running after it is warm....SO right now It just parked until I have the time and patience to go at it again.
So if you do end up going to the Nissan dealer or figure this out, Please post any solutions.
I will pick up on trying to solve my problem this week. My next step was to verify all of the grounds were ok. Some of the things I have done....
Replaced the battery, because the other one went bad..had to jump sart van.
Not sure if the jump start or new battery has caused something else to fail??
Right after that got some driveability problems.
Isolated those problems to a bad distributor,
Replaced that along with the module in front of the distributor.
This seemed to have solved all of my problems....Van was still sitting, waiting for the brake job and teen to get liscence.
Now van tuns very good when it is cold, and still runs good when at operating temp.....ocassionally will shut off after running for several hours....
When I restart.. it runs rough, and Since it has no brakes on it. my guess is it would buck and sputter if i tried to drive it.
The problem I have is definely Heat related...my guess is I will eventually find a simple fuseable link, or another simple component that is causing all of this. The problem for me is it goes away once the van starts to cool down....Defintely needs to be hooked to a scanner when it happens.
Our problems may not be the same, but if you are able to solve it it may help me to isolate a component too.
No core charge, I can look for the vendor I think his name is Partsbookie out of california.....
If I junk my van I will be selling this part.... If you live in upstate NY, You can try the one I have !!!!!!
I removed the black cover right under the wipers. It exposed a well from the engine and the dash board. I could see the dirty rain water in the well. wear a glove and put your hand in the left of the well and clean out the leaves and goop it built up through the years. All you have to do is push it down through a hole in the well for the purpose of draining rain water. Once the hole is cleared, the water in the well will drain. Water went into the passenger side is because it has a opening on top of the well. Why, I don't know. It took about 30 minutes and all you need is a screw driver.
The dealer here in Vegas has to call the Manufactuer for the price & part#
Anyone know how to install it (I'm thinking thru STEERING WHEEL)
We are having troubles with our 1999 Mercury Villager. It hesitates and bogs at acceleration, idles roughly while in gear and sometimes dies at intersections, and when in park has overall intermittent high idle. My husband has tested the KS sub-harness and believes that it is running at too high of voltage according to previous posts. The van is also using more fuel than it should. It is running a Knock Sensor/Circuit Fault code, which we have had cleared three times to check for reliability of the code. We are aware that the Knock Sensor code most often is not the actual problem.
We have change the O2 sensors (both), the air filter, the fuel filter, the distributor, the rotor and cap, and the spark plugs and wires, if I'm not forgetting anything. We purchased the Haynes book, but nothing is really standing out right now as to the main issue could be.
Right now we are considering checking grounds off of the computer, but are not sure where they would be located. We are also considering changing the negative battery cable. Any other leads or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
we also changed fuel filter,plugs,plug wires, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the Throttle position sensor.
the guy thats going to fix the egr valve said it could have also been the fuel injectors or the fuel injectors needed to be cleaned and o rings replaced this is not the case with our van but that was his first possible diagnosis.
if you go to church you might find someone with a mechanic shop or some one who can help. our church has a car ministry with mechanics that often do some side work which is a blessing. hope this helps
I drove it again today and the van died six times and took a few attempts to start just driving a 1/4 mile. In between all of that I had a lot of close calls with it dieing. Like I said this all really began yesterday but for the past couple of weeks we would have a slight hestitation every now and then when driving.
If you have detonation it is caused by something else. I had similar problems with my 95 villager and it ended up being my distributor assembly, and there was no code for that. I saw another post saying the knock sensor was part of the distributor assembly, On my van it is not... it is a seperate sensor.
I have read a bunch of these forums that say similar things. The knock sensor code is usually tripped by another problem. And by itself does not cuase you van to run bad.
The van is actually running fine. I have not noticed any missing, surging or stalling. I have noticed that my gas mileage has dropped a bit. The only known issue is the P0325 code that I have when a scanner is connected. This code will keep me from passing the local emissions test.
Still think i should look beyond the actual sensor?
Bob
Two weeks later, car runs rough at reverse gear and when you hit a brake.
Any advice?
Some update from me.
I opened up the air-filter compartment and used the air-cleaner-can try to blow clean the MAF sensor. Afterward, drove the car and feel (without brake) in reverse gear. Car was running rough. drive for ~6 miles and check-engine-light is on.
Plan to read the obdii code today.
Regards,
Will first try to replace the spark plug, then wire.
My Villager also had rough idle problems (also showing knock sensor code) and after replacing distributor cap, spark plugs, checking cat, O2 sensor, vacuum leaks, it turned out to be the distributor (ordered on eBay from California). I also changed the fuel filter which also helped smooth hesitation and low RPM surging problems.
I'm wondering what you did to fix the P0325 code. I've got the same thing plus an oxygen sensor code on my 2002 Villager. Actually the check engine light has been on for a couple of years, with no difference in performance of the engine, which is why I never bothered to fix it. Now I have to pass the emissions test, so it has to be fixed. I'm about to tear into it to replace the Knock Sensor, but I'm seeing differing info on this site and others that say that the sensor might not be the real problem. Took the van to a mechanic, and he wanted to replace both sensors, at a pretty high cost. I'd hate to do all this work myself and have it not really fix the problem. I did just replace plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor. Plugs looked good except one was black. Van has 98,000 miles.
I took a 1000 mile trip during which the car ran fine. Not the greatest gas milege, but no performance issues. When I reutnred, I removed the air filter and sprayed carb cleaner in throught the opening . this provided some cleaning of the air mass screen. I then checked for codes again. Everything was cleared. Maybe I am jsut lucky
I have a new knock sensor that was never installed. I would be happy to sell it to you at a great price if you need one. Let me know!
Bob
Thanks again.
I did it myself for $60.15. I think I priced the part at another store for around $120, so it pays to shop around.
It's not difficult to replace yourself, you just have to crawl under the car. The hardest part was finding it. I replaced the aft OS, which is closer to the front than the rear (I expected it to be toward the rear of the vehicle).
Recently, we have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, EGR Valve - O2 Sensor (twice), cleaned out the EGR flow tubes, and it's still doing the same thing. It seems that every time we hook it up for the "Check Engine" light, we get a new story (like now it shows the apparently infamous knock sensor code - no - I won't replace that).
After reading a little bit on some of these forums, I'm starting to think that it might be the distributor. Would buying a cap be the answer, or should we a whole new distributor. OR - should we just drive this thing off into a lake and forget about it. It's getting too expensive to drive!
At wits end with the idle problem. Any suggestions?
Three years ago my Villager had similar problems, rough running, lack of power, etc. I did the usual, plugs, dist. cap and rotor, check for vacuum leaks, I even replaced six studs on my exhaust manifolds that broke, thanks to J.B. Weld (quieter but no change in performance). Anyway, when I checked the timing, I noticed it was retarded badly, so I advanced the timing all to no avail. I decided to change the timing belt, idler and water pump. Well, I pulled off the crank sprocket and found my problem; the woodruff key turned between the sprocket and crank shaft and destroyed that keyway in the crank. I bought a new key from Mercury and realized the problem, OEM Villager Woodruff keys are not tall enough. There is about an 1/8th inch gap between the top of the key and the key channel in the sprocket, hence the key can ride up about an 1/8th inch in the keyway. I suppose this isn’t usually a problem for newer vans, however mine had 250K miles at the time and the tolerances were probably getting a little loose. Anyway, I went to the local hardware store and got the proper size metric woodruff key. It was much taller than the OEM key and fit much better. Obviously, the keyway had real problems, so, thanks again J.B. Weld. The van has 286k miles now without a reoccurrence.
As to "bucking" from a stop, mine did it for about a year, I just thought it was the transmission and figured it would go soon. Anyway, when I was changing the timing belt (above), I noticed that the driver side front motor mount was broken so I replaced all four motor and transmission mounts – bucking problem solved. Apparently, my neighbor had a similar problem. He saw me working on my Villager and stopped by to introduce himself and mentioned that he just had the transmission replaced ($2100.00). I told him about my experience with the motor mounts and we looked at his, the front two mounts were brand new without any charges for motor mounts on his invoice. He obviously thinks the tyranny was probably alright.
Steve, visiting host
I’m afraid I’ve never really been in a position to track my mileage regularly, in town one day and on the road the next, but my very best mileage recently has been 20.4MPG: it’s a '95. 3.0L with just under 300k miles; something to compare with yours.
plugs, distributor cap and rotor just in case (looked worn out). also looked at distributor internal components- looked clean- no sign of apparent wear. it helped only with knock sensor code. misfire in cylinder 4 remained. swapping ignition wire #4 between cylinders didn't make any difference. compared the internal resistance between fuel injectors - injector #4 resistance @59ohm. other 2 injectors in front bank showed 12-14ohm. found it a little hard to replace the injector. soaked the injector assembly w/pb blaster for a wheek. i used wise grips to turn long phillips screwdriver to remove fuel injector cap screws. i used needle nose stile wise grips to get a hold of fuel injector- flush and just above fuel injector bore. i twisted fuel injector as it moved inside the bore just a little bit and started moving it side to side while pulling it up and it popped out. i recomend using very fine sandpaper to clean rusty fuel injector bore. clean it up and use engine oil to lubricate fuel injector o-rings and inside the bore before installing new one. not sure what those nissan tech's do, but it worked for me.
E
First thing to mention is that on my Villager, I could see 3 broken studs with the upper part missing, but when I got working on it, five more were cracked that just hadn’t yet fallen off, so I actually had 8 broken studs. Oh, if you’re wondering, every stud broke in the same place, right at the head so there was no chance to get a grip on it with vice grips locking pliers. .
The special tools I used for the extractions were: 1. good brand of penetrating oil (Wal-Mart); 2. a good fine file (Wal-Mart, Harbor Freight, Sears); 3. a good hard small point center punch and an automatic center punch, the spring loaded type of punch (Harbor Freight, Sears); 4. a good right angle drill (I have a 19.2 volt Craftsman that DID NOT do the job, I purchased an A/C electric one from Home Depot (Harbor Freight, Sears, Home Depot); 5. left twist drill bit set, probably two or three sets (Harbor Freight, Sears); 6. stud extractor set (Harbor Freight, Sears); 7. Replacement studs (I replaced all of the suds, even the ones that weren’t broken, I can’t remember the size, they are metric, get the grade 8 metric equivalent) (NAPA Auto Parts); 8. high temp anti-seize compound (on-line eBay, NAPA, AutoZone); 9. a good light with an aim-able beam (I have a Craftsman 19.2 volt flashlight that worked great); 10. an adjustable, telescoping mirror (Wal-Mart, Harbor Freight, Sears); 12. J. B. Weld epoxy (Wal-Mart); and a treaded tap set (Harbor Freight, Sears). Be prepared to buy thread repair inserts and appropriate taps and drills if things go really bad. All of this stuff is much cheaper online if you’ve got time. Harbor Freight is next best for price if you have one local, maybe Northern Tools, some place that sells cheap Chinese one-time use tools (hopefully you’ll never do it again).
Fair Warning, on mine I attempted to drill out the studs with the exhaust manifolds in place. Some folks may be more talented than me, but in my case, I made the project much worse by not removing the manifolds before attempting the extract the studs. The studs are Hard, Hard, but the head is soft. If the bit spins off the stud and onto the head, you’ll have a hole, I did. I suggest you take the exhaust manifolds off the heads to extract the studs, HUGE PAIN IN THE [non-permissible content removed]. You’ll also need to remove the radiator.
If you’ve ever removed a broken stud, it’s really straight forward. First, make a punch mark in the EXACT center of the broken stud. Drill with a left twist bit into the punch mark EXACTLY parallel with the stud. If you’re lucky, the stud spins out with the left turning bit. If not, you insert the bolt extractor and break the stud free. HOWEVER, where you are going to be working there is absolutely no space.
Before starting the project, I suggest you liberally spray all the studs with penetrating oil, each day for a couple days before you intend to start the project. Jack the van up and get the rear (right) head studs good too. Because the studs break across the thread line, they never break flat, so it’s usually difficult to start a drill on the broken stud without a good punch mark. Getting a good punch mark on the broken stud is really difficult because of the angle you’ll be at and the lack of space. This is the toughest part. Whereever I had space to work, I used a small, fine file to polish flat some the broken studs to get a good punch mark. Use the mirror to verify the punch marks are exactly centered. This is a lot tougher that it sounds due to the space restrictions. Then, I used the right angle drill with left twist bits on the punch mark. DRILL EXACTLY PARALLEL WITH THE STUD ON THE MARK. If a bit dulls, un-[non-permissible content removed] it and get another, dull bits will kill you here. This is really difficult, again because of the space. Start with a small bit and drill out with a larger one until the hole sized is sufficient to get an extractor in. Be careful, it’s really tough getting broken bits out of the studs.
Okay, the good news, every stud that I didn’t screw up by attempting the drill out with the manifolds on, and even some that I did, came out with the drill. No extracting was necessary. If you drill into the head, all bets are off, and it is a lot more difficult getting the stud out. If you are good, just apply the anti-seize compound on the studs and replace them. If you’re not, and I wasn’t, you’ll need to re-tap the threads, maybe install repair threads, and fill the gaps with J. B. Weld. Believe me, that J. B. Weldstuff works, I have two gosh-awful holes that I got studs in and torqued.
I did this because I don’t give up on anything. My van had 260k+ mile when I did this. In retrospect, if I had it to do over again I’d probably buy a good low-milage used engine, replace the seals, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, idler, water and oil pumps and all of the exhaust manifold studs, and maybe the injectors, and switch motors. It would be more expensive but not take any more time that what I went through.
Good luck,
Rudy
r.buchel@buchel-ip.com