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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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Comments

  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    Hey everyone, thanks for the input. My parents know they're looking for a vehicle that may not exist. And I believe the trailer has its own brakes so I don't think that's an issue. A slightly used Outback H6 is a real possibility, although they're hard to find Arizona. But my wife and I live in Salt Lake where every third vehicle on the road is a Subaru so they should be able to find it here if it comes to that.

    But the Forester X is still near the top of the list. They're main concern is that towing a trailer around the Intermountain West will, as my dad says, "tow the guts out of the car." We were hoping someone had experience towing in the West with a Subaru. I've suggested that a transmission cooler, oil cooler and full synthetic oil would make any vehicle pretty much bombproof no matter what you did to it. But piece of mind is priceless and a 6 cylinder or XT might be the best answer in the end.

    Thanks again, Tim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The automatics have an engine oil cooler standard.

    -juice
  • msavadmsavad Member Posts: 14
    on the 2005 forester, does anynone know the dimensions under the seats in this car? i want to see if i can place a larger subwoofer if i wanted too. could it fit under the back seats?

    also are the speakers pre-wired? could i add a tweeter myself if i wanted to later on?

    and last question, the option of corner bumper things, i think it's a good idea to have them - how well do they stick? i suppose it would be best if i bought it at some other time and installed it myself. but since this protects the car, i wonder how well it sticks in the long run.

    thanks

    ---Mike Savad
  • jeandjeand Member Posts: 1
    One of my friend had a similar problem on is subaru , if it do not start ( starter do not crank)
    check for the neutral switch , by moving the shifter from park to neutral position a couple of
    time to activate the neutral switch , this is for and automatic . The same switch is on the
    clutch pedal and does the same thing. Hope those informations helps you Kiangster .
  • toasterpilottoasterpilot Member Posts: 48
    Between my wife and I, we've put about 5-6000 more miles on the '01 Forester L this month. After she drove it back from North Carolina, I was cleaning it and noticed that the (auto-dimming) mirror had a white-ish, wavy haze. I clean all my glass with Armor-All window wipes and can get everything off, including bugs. But the haze didn't appear to be on the surface and wouldn't come off.

    It's noticeably hazy to the point that my rearview vision is blurred. Happen to you? Could it have been caused by driving 15 hours per day?

    The compass still works.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lift her end of the canoe up on the car

    That's easy - just have her (or Dad) prop the bow on the rear cross bar of the rack and then lift the stern and slide the canoe forward. You may need a pad to protect the paint before the gunnels reach the cross bar.

    Taking it off is just the reverse. Otherwise you're horsing a big long boat around with extended arms and it's easy to drop in on the side mirror (voice of experience!).

    Steve, Host
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Under the back seat? :confuse: ....
    There isn't any space under the back seat.

    The front doors are pre-wired for tweeter add-on.

    -Dave
  • matt14matt14 Member Posts: 6
    Where is the best place to buy oil filters and crush washers? Are the dealers competitively price or is there someplace online?
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I've had an auto-dimming mirror fail in that manner. It was in an 03 Forester XS. The mirror had been exposed to too much sunlight when I had the roof open. Literally melted the coating behind the glass. I've also heard of other cases where the liquid has actually gone so far as to leak out. No personal knowledge of those however.

    We also had the replace the auto-dimming mirror on my wife's 03 OBW because it responded way too slow to changing light conditions.

    BTW - In 04 at least on some models, Subaru switched to a different OEM auto-dimming mirror - seems to hold up and perform much better. I know the one on my FXT works very well.

    HTH

    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If you are buying one, buy from your local dealer, try to find a coupon if you can.

    Shipping alone will kill any thoughts of getting a good deal on-line on a single oil filter.

    -juice
  • mpgmanmpgman Member Posts: 723
    Anyone have the trailer hitch/bike rack attachment? Curious to know what you paid and how you like it. Are there other/better after market bike racks for the rear of the Forester? I have an 05. 2 bikes are all I need to carry. Thanks.
  • moe5moe5 Member Posts: 7
    Hey all, I installed the Subaru Subwoofer and Tweeters in my 2005 XS and it was pretty simple. The tweeters took about 5 minutes tops. The sound improved, but the main "upgrade speakers" still sound muddy. I listened side by side with a friends '04 standard speakers (same 6 disc CD), and the "upgrade" sounded much less crisp and punchy. Odd. So, I could put in some Alpines, but they'd be rated at 250 watts max, and I wonder if the OEM cd player can drive them okay. I'm not an audiophile really, but the sound in those speakers isn't good.

    Has anybody else listend to the 2005 speakers and thought they sounded really muddy? Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Moe
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    You will have to tune the subwoofer's high cut/low pass and volume to your liking.
    As it is now, it sounds like your high cut/low pass is set at minimum and the upper frequencies are still transmitted to the subwoofer.

    It is not so much of what max wattage the speaker can take but how much wattage is needed to power the speaker and how much continuous power it can take before distorting.
    The OEM HU is rated about 160 watts max., and I'm guessing it RMS would be in the 15 watt RMS ballpark. So, if the Alpine does not take much to be driven, they should be fine.

    I recently swapped out the OEM HU and replaced it with the Kenwood KDC-MP828 featuring 22 watts RMS and 50 watts peak x4, amongst other bells and whistles, and those OEM upgraded speaker system are even more lively - you can hear the variations of the accompliments in the background crisp and clear.

    -Dave

    p/s: You may want to check with the dealer if the speakers in your door now are the standard issue or the optional upgraded speakers.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Trailer hitch bike racks are definitely the easiest to use. I wouldn't recommend buying from the dealer though as they way over-charge. The Subaru bike rack is just a rebadged Yakima (I think) so go to your local bike store and pick one that you like.

    -Frank
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Try allsubaru.com or langstonspeed.com. I've used both and I'm very happy with their service and speed. allsubaru is running an OEM 30% sale, but I'm not sure if it's on everything and I'm not sure if it's on their web site (vs. advertised on another forum, and I'm in a hurry).

    -Dennis
  • moe5moe5 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info, Dave.

    The tweeters and sub actually sound fine, but the midrange coming out of the "upgrade" speakers in the doors sounds very muddy. I though the upgrade speakers were standard on the XS premium, but I don't see them noted on the sticker, so I'm waiting to hear back from the dealer regarding what I've really got. If I've just got the standard speakers, that's easy to solve.

    The alpines I was looking at say 50rms, so I'm thinking the OEM HU can't drive them? Sound right?

    I'll report what I find out!

    Thanks,
    Moe
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Once you've got the high cut/low pass and volume set, adjust your front/rear fade to manupilate the overall mid-range. You'll notice that the sound will be less muddy as you adjust the fade more bias to the front speakers. After that, then you tune the bass/treble and re-visit the other settings for finer tuning, if your ears feels it is needed.

    Look at RMS as how much continuous beating it can take. In this case, 50 watts of continuous power without distortion or tearing apart. The max. 250 watt is up to how much it can take at short burst without distortion or tearing apart i.e. Cannon blast from '1812".
    Take a peek over at Crutchfield and look up your Alpine model. They have in their specs the recommended minimum Headunit RMS range for the speaker, and Alpine speakers can be driven at 2 watt RMS.

    I was eyeing the Kenwood KFC-X168 and X138 to replace my OEM speakers.
    Very good frequency response range 28 Hz -> 40 kHz, basically better than the others that are out there for the price. But alas the new HU have breathed new life into my OEM speakers, hence I won't be looking to replace them.

    Oh, you'll need spacers to install the Alpine.

    -Dave

    .
  • fyreslayerfyreslayer Member Posts: 3
    Just picked up a new Baja, curious if anyone has experience with the cap from ARE. Was told the hard cover and soft cover both leak according to the Sub dealership. Any experiences or advice appreciated.
    Cheers Slayer ;)
  • toasterpilottoasterpilot Member Posts: 48
    My wife was out on the Outer Banks and parked the car at the beach for a few hours. It could have been pointed just right to take a direct hit from the sun. What kind of liquid is in there? I'd just as soon replace it with a normal mirror. Thanks for the info.

    Also, I second the above advise on canoe loading. I walk mine up to the rear cross bar and load it myself.
  • moe5moe5 Member Posts: 7
    You're the guru, Dave. Turns out I only had the standard speakers, so I popped in the upgrade set ($99, not too bad) and the sound is greatly improved. Now I'll fine tune the sub using your advice.

    If I get the urge later (more $) I'll try a HU like yours. And thanks for explaining all the RMS details and driving power needs. Really appreciate it!

    Moe
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have the hitch-mounted bike rack. I have no idea what I paid, that was 7 years ago anyway and prices have probably changed. I'd guess $180 or so? No idea.

    Try parts@libertysubaru.com or visit the site 1stsubaruparts.com.

    The rack itself works well, you don't have to lifts the bikes much and it tilts so you can still open the hatch.

    -juice
  • msavadmsavad Member Posts: 14
    do you know if the sub woofer is pre-wired also? thanks

    ---Mike Savad
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    To my knowledge, pre-05s are not pre-wired.
    The harness will be supplied with the unit when ordered.
    The 05s, I have not idea.

    -Dave
  • moe5moe5 Member Posts: 7
    I just put an 05 subwoofer in, and it's not pre-wired, but comes with the harness. The tweeters are pre-wired. It's not hard to install the sub.

    Moe
  • gmroystongmroyston Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about buying a 2001 Forester with 84,000 miles. It's a good deal pricewise but I'm concerned about the mileage. How many miles can a Forester go without encountering expensive repairs. Are the engines/automatic trannies known for going well over 100,000 miles? Any help would be appreciated.
  • toasterpilottoasterpilot Member Posts: 48
    My 01 L had 96L when I bought it--barely warmed up, I think, for a car company that is considered the most reliable in the world. So far I've had, let me think...
    ...0 problems (except for a minor squeak and the abovementioned mirror).

    Make sure you call Subaru and check for recalls, warranty repairs and to get yourself registered as the new owner (assuming, as I must, that you will buy this car).

    Make sure that the coolant additive has been installed to protect the gaskets. It's still under warranty until 100K.

    My Forester survived three road trips last month totalling about 5500 miles (all three included mountain driving). It's so much fun to drive that when my wife returned my car after the last trip, I almost kissed the car first.
    David
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We saw one on E-Bay with 274k miles. That was a '98.

    Inspect the condition, though, and make sure it had regular service. Call 800-SUBARU3 and see if they can tell if you all the recalls were performed, at least.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    First off, thanks to Chuck for the Fumoto valve, which he gave me free of charge. Lots of friendly and unselfish folks on these boards. :)

    Installed it on Wednesday, first oil change I'd done since I got it. It basically replace the oil drain plug and crush gasket with its own gasket and the unit screws right in. Fit like a charm, and doesn't seem to protrude below the oil pan so clearance is unaffected.

    It's the kind without the "lip" so it'll pour the used oil directly into a recycling container, no mess, I hope. Of course the oil pan was empty when I installed it so I can only actually use it with the next oil change.

    One issue was the concern that the oil pan would not be completely empty after drainage, so what I plan to do it pour about half a quart of new oil in to rinse it out, sort of. I use 4.5 quarts or so usually, so I have that spare 1/2 quart anyway.

    I'll take pics when I actually use it. For now you can check out pics at their website:

    http://www.fumotovalve.com/

    -juice
  • mpgmanmpgman Member Posts: 723
    Thanks all for the posts. I'm going to get a quote from my dealer for the hitch and attachment and then compare it to other alternatives. Anyone out there agree with me that the tilt wheel should adjust to a higher position than it does?
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    juice,

    I installed one on my wife's 2003 Outback. I cut the threaded section down to about 1/2 its length first, so that the last bit of oil would be able to flow out without any obstruction. She has the one with the short extension on it, so you can use a piece of hose to direct the flow exactly where you want it. Very convenient.

    Len
  • fbkordfbkord Member Posts: 17
    Hello everyone.
    My 2002 forester, with 23000 miles on it, is making a high pitch sound as it accelerates. It is most noticeable around 55-60 m/h. I believe it comes from either the transmission or the front axle. As I decrease speed, the sound decreases too. It is similar to the sound of a sewing machine.
    Has anyone had a similar issue? Last year, the transmission was changed due to internal component failure.
    Thanks for your input.
  • mpgmanmpgman Member Posts: 723
    The A/T gets tweaked again to better align with the AWD and to provide greater fuel economy. HP is up 8 in the standard engine and 20 for the turbo. The front end grille is totally revised with new light housings and a more aerodynamic look. There will be a sliding armrest to help those who don't sit all the way back on the track. The rear seat gets an armrest and better cushions for increased thigh support. There is new multi-function center console. The rear cargo area gets more hooks and bars to fasten things down. The rear pillars will now be color coordinated except on the base model. I saw no mention of whether the X will continue with the unpainted bumpers and side cladding or whether the X will get 4 wheel discs.
  • moe5moe5 Member Posts: 7
    Let us know what you find out. I'm planning on putting a hitch with bike rack on too...
  • maverick1017maverick1017 Member Posts: 212
    All trims get color coded bumpers and lower cladding, to give the Forester a more refined and upmarket appearance. I prefere the unpainted cladding myself, have to be really careful with the painted bumpers.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hate them. Have seen more than 1 time they opened up or were flipped open by accident. Also the are closer to the ground than the OEM plug....

    -mike
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I assume you can wire the valve closed? All good ball valves (of any variety) should have holes in the handle that you can use to wire it in position. This is typically for safety purposes (ie, to red-tag a valve) but can offer extra insurance against accidental opening or closing.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm not sure, never checked it out that closely, maybe someone with one can say if it has it or not.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Len: what did you cut it with? I thought about that but I don't have the appropriate tools, just a jigsaw, and I didn't think I could get it right.

    Mine is tucked well out of the way, even if I bottomed out there nothing would open it. Might depend on how it's installed, but mine worked out quite well.

    mpgman: unpainted cladding is gone. :cry:

    fbkord: if the pitch is speed-dependent, my best guess is the wheel bearings.

    -juice
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    No hole on the lever on the Fumoto valve that I have installed. I imagine though it would be easy enough to drill one, or better yet file a couple of notches in the sides of the tab so that you can secure some thin wire to. Maybe then wrap the wire around the valve itself a couple of times and tie it off.

    I definitely can see how under certain off road situations with branches that may get kicked up that the lever can be pushed up and turned to allow the drain to open. Like Frank Castanza solemnly said, "It was one in a million Doc.... one in a million". Halfway obscure Seinfeld reference :P

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    The one I had on my FXT for a while failed - started to weep around the ball valve, had about 30k on it from 2 different Subaurs.

    It had a small spring clamp that (the type you squeeze with a pair of pliers to release) that set into the groove that the lever for the valve used, effectively locking it in place.
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    juice,

    I cut mine with a sawzall using a fine tooth metal cutting blade. You could cut it with a jig saw with a metal cutting blade as well, or even a hacksaw. It's brass, so it cuts easily. Just be careful to make a square cut across the threads. I also used a small triangular file to clean up the threads when I finished cutting.

    Fumoto's literature shows how you can use a spring-type hose clamp around the outside of the valve body to secure the lever in the closed position. I don't use one on my wife's Outback, though.

    After I change the oil in her car, I use a couple q-tips stuck up inside to clean the oil residue off the ball portion of the valve, including the last wipe with the q-tip soaked with brake cleaner, to ensure it is dry in there. I always check the ball valve before opening it on a subsequent oil change, and I haven't found any evidence of oil seepage or weeping yet, after about a year and a half and about 20K miles (roughly 6 or 7 oil changes). I'm pretty OCD about this, so I'll keep checking it every time.

    The only reason I installed the Fumoto on her car is because I always got oil on the plastic shroud during oil changes on this vehicle, no matter what I did to avoid it. I don't use one on my 2001 Forester, because the plastic shroud comes off and I don't have any mess. I would NOT consider using one on any vehicle I planned to take off-roading or one with limited ground clearance, due to the greater chance of damaging the valve.

    Len
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If I take it off road again, I'll pay a visit to paisan beforehand to get that skid plate he's got.

    -juice
  • ducktapeguyducktapeguy Member Posts: 115
    Just thought I'd add in my experience. I've had the fumoto valve on for about 50K miles, no problems so far. I've even taken it off roading a few times with no problems. I have the regular valve without the hose attachment, if you compare it to a standard drain plug, it really doesn't stick out any lower. I used to worry about it catching on something and opening, but if you've used one you'll know it's not that easy to get it to open accidentally. And if you've got the skid plate or sump guard, I don't think you'll have to worry at all.

    As for the extra threads, if you're really OCD you can cut notches in the threads to allow the oil to drain completely. Someone measured how much oil is left in the pan due to the extra length in the oilpan, it's a really tiny amount, not enough to be concerned about. Also, I added a couple of washers under mine so when I screw it down the lever is on top, also decreasing the risk of accidental opening.
  • biceman113biceman113 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 04 Forester X last fall. I now have a little over 12,000 miles on it. Average about 28 mpg with no problems whatsoever. There are a couple of accessories that I would like to add now. They are a trailer hitch and a rear diff protector. What is the best place to get these? How tough is the install? What other accessories would you guys recommend?
    Thanks, Scott
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I just ordered oil filters from langstonspeed.com and was impressed with their service and prices. I've also used subaruparts.com and allsubaru.com.

    Although I've never installed the above accessories, both appear to be straght foward bolt-ons.

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've used parts@libertysubaru.com (via e-mail) and 1stsubaruparts.com. The latter has a good web site and they accepted my Subaru Bucks, so the order cost me almost nothing.

    I've installed both of those myself on my '98, but the '04 might be a little different.

    Things to know - for the diffy protector, you might have to move the exhaust out of the way slightly. Spray lithium grease on the exhaust hooks to slide them off, then use a jack, jack stands, or tie wraps to hold the exhaust in place while you install the bolts on that side of the protector. It's not as hard as it sounds.

    The jack takes 7 bolts, at least mine did. You remove both tow hooks, 2 bolts each, reuse the same bolts IIRC. You also remove a vaccum canister for the fuel system and reinstall it under the hitch mount. Make sure you reconnect all the hoses.

    The harness is nice, plug and play. Mine had the wiring in the spare tire well. I ran it down through the hole in the bottom of the spare tire well and used the rubber grommet supplied with the kit to seal it up nicely. 7 years later it has never leaked and works every time.

    If you get both and end up doing this, e-mail me and I'll send you some useful photos I have.

    Keep in mind yours might be slightly different, but you'll get the general idea.

    -juice
  • dcabdcab Member Posts: 101
    Has anyone used the type of bike rack that attaches to the back of the vehicle with a rear deflector on a 2003-5 Forester? The top tie-downs go under the deflector and do touch the underside of the deflector. I don't believe that they are putting much upward pressure on the deflector though, but of course I don't what to end up cracking the deflector.

    I have a Yakima bike rack and Yakima's instructions don't mention the deflector at all. They do say the the bike rack is compatible with the 1998-2002 Forester's optional spoiler.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    No experience with the deflector, but make sure that you can open up the rack enough to distribute the weight correctly on the bumper if you're carrying more than one bike.

    I bought at Saris 3 bike rack (standard, not a bones) a few years ago. The rear spoiler prevented me from opening the rack one more click like I wanted to. I figured it was ok and made a trip to Cape Cod with three bikes. An hour into the trip I realized that the bikes were pulling the rack down and the top of the rack wasn't resting against the rear glass. I found some old rags to try to relieve pressure of the top clamps. It helped a little, but I still got two little indentations on the top where the clamps go.

    I didn't want to risk any more damage and bought a hitch and Thule rack for the trip back. In your case I think if the straps hit the underside of the deflector it would be ok, since the weight will be on the car and/or glass.

    Good luck,
    Dennis
  • speedwagonspeedwagon Member Posts: 6
    Does anybody know whether the improved brake booster on the 2006 model can be installed on a 2005? I'm trying to find a way to reduce the sponginess of the brake pedal on my 2005 Forester X...

    Thanks for your help!
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    it shouldn't be spongy in the first place.

    1) maybe an air bubble in the system somewhere.
    2) maybe the rear drums out of adjustment.

    It might be worth it to go sit in an '05 X at the dealers, start it up and compare. If they are different, then this would be a warranty fix.

    John
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