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Volvo V70 Engine Issues

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Comments

  • nicholasbnicholasb Member Posts: 6
    Don't know if anyone can help here, I am trying to find out if the cambelt has been changed and there is no record in full service hastory, there is a sticker on the cambelt cover with a part number and serial number but no date. Does this sound like it has been done. 114,00 miles on the clock.
  • badv70badv70 Member Posts: 1
    I need help with a major problem. Before I met her, my wife bought a 2000 V70. She was an Army spouse and bought the US-spec car while in Germany.

    It has burned a significant amount of oil since new....up to a quart every 500 miles. German Volvo mechanics checked it out several times a declared it "normal". About 2 years ago (since we have met), the car burnt a valve. $3,000 later, the valve was repaired...the car was still burning lots of oil and noone could tell us why, or what caused the valve failure.

    Last November, another cylinder lost all compression. We parked the car, hoping for a good used, or rebuilt engine. Since we now live in the UK, this did not happen. We decided to repair the valve. Turns out both exhaust valves in a separate cylinder were burnt..one very badly. We had them replaced and the rest of the valves refaced (different garage this time). Now it is burning even more oil than ever. The car has 120,000 miles on it.

    Anybody had this experience?
  • carol1953carol1953 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me what is the normal lenght of time to replace a intake manifold gasket on a1004 Volvo 850. I had this done at the dealer and they charged me for 4 hours of labor
  • tormetorme Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 XC70 AWD - similar to a previous post, I find that I am constantly having to fill the coolant tank (monthly), and there are no visible leaks. Additionally, the front window defrost works poorly, and there is a coolant smell when the fan is running at full blast. The car has about 160,000km on it.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    You have a leak in the "heater core". This must be attended to ASAP. Occupants of the vehicle are breathing volatilized antifreeze (active ingredient ethylene glycol) which is toxic. You should immediately take it to the dealer or a quality independent garage that specializes in Volvo and get an estimate for your car. This is not a condition that you can just tolerate.

    The first rate fix is to replace the heater core. Replacing the heater core on some models is very expensive because in those models the dashboard must be removed to get to the heater core. In other models the cost is less because in those models the heater core can be replaced without removing the dashboard. A shop recently told me that a heater core replacement in my 2004 V70 can be done without removing the dashboard. I don't know about your '99 XC70.

    I had this occur in my 1989 Dodge Caravan in about 1996. In that case the estimate from the dealer was about $1100! This vehicle was not even worth that so I opted to use radiator stop leak. I tried several different products at about $5 per product and finally the leak stopped. The product which finally worked was "Bars-Leak" (sp?) which is a fine powder of either aluminum or copper. However, I would not recommend that for a 1999 XC70. Get the heater core replaced!
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    I want to add that while antifreeze is toxic, having a leaking heater core which releases antifreeze into the heated air stream is not nearly as hazardous as, for example, an exhaust system leak which releases CO (carbon monoxide) into the passenger compartment.

    Concerning my 2004 V70 (base model 2.4L non-turbo), which we bought new in Oct 2003, the heater core is not leaking. When I had it in for an oil change, I asked about the heater core because I had had it leak on my 1989 Dodge Caravan, and I was relieved when the garage told me that, if necessary, the heater core in the 04 V70 could be replaced without removing the entire dashboard.

    This V70 has less than 40 kmi on the odometer. But I am thinking that at over 5 years in service it may be time to replace the coolant. At a recent oil change I asked the garage (independent Volvo specialist) about this and they told me that there was no specified replacement interval for the coolant on this vehicle.

    Antifreeze consists of two main active ingredients:

    (1) the antifreeze component. This is normally the toxic ethylene glycol (but may be non-toxic propylene glycol, which is more expensive and may not be as good for heat exchange.)

    (2) the anti-corrosion additives. There are several different sets of anti-corrosion chemicals, but none of them lasts indefinitely. Also some of the different types are incompatible with others. The longest warranty I am aware of (excluding antifreeze for commercial trucks) is 5 years or 100,000 miles. I have read that that Volvo uses Zerex G-05 in the OE fill and this should be good for 5 years or 100 kmi.

    Each of the different types of antifreeze is dyed a different color and when bought in labeled retail containers Zerex G-05 is, I think, orange or pink. But when the auto mfgrs buy coolant in bulk from the coolant manufacturers they can and do request their own dye color. So the fact that Volvo coolant is green does not mean that it is not G-05. Volvo does not state in the manual what type of antifreeze it uses, but only says to use the Volvo antifreeze specified for a given Volvo.

    When the anti-corrosion chemicals become exhausted then vulnerable components like the radiator and heater core will corrode.

    One measure of the effectiveness of the anti-corrosion effectiveness of the coolant is to determine the pH of the coolant. A year ago I used swimming pool pH test strips* to compare the pH of the coolant in my 2004 V70 to my wife's 2007 XC90. They were about the same, if I recall correctly it was a little over pH 8 for the '07 XC90 and a little under pH 8 for the '04 V70. As the anti-corrosion chemicals become consumed the pH becomes lower and lower.

    I plan to ask about a coolant replacement at my next service.

    *You can get special pH test strips for testing auto coolant, but the local auto parts store didn't have them and had never heard of this. While walking my dogs I happened to find a container with two unused strips which had probably be dropped by a pool servicing technicians. We do not have a swimming pool.
  • tormetorme Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Jim, due to weather issues I have not yet been able to take a good close look at the heater core. The interior floors do not appear to be wet (or smelly). In looking under the hood, there is some powdery substance on the connector between the rubber coolant hose and where the metal pipes go through the firewall. It is greenish/yellow - perhaps this is where the leak is. Could this leak, however, be the cause of the poor defrosting and interior smell when the defrost/heater is running? I had a coolant system flush not all that long ago (within the last 9 months), so, the coolant should be fine, except to the extent that water has been added on occasion (rather than coolant). I really appreciate the input. The local Volvo dealer ust quoted me $800 to replace the core (parts and labour).
  • donhuntdonhunt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 V70 Wagon.with 116,000 miles. It is like brand new and one of the finest cars I have driven. I did experence a bit of a problem as follows.
    In the mountains of western NC parked on a steep drive, I started to back down the drive. The engine suddenly went to full acceleration. I jammed the gear shift into park, pulled on the emergency, all to no avail. Went down the drive, accelerating all the way. Hit a railroad tie marking the drive, blew out the left front tire, hit the main road where I had to make a greater than 90 degree turn up hill (going backwards). The blown tire came off the rim and dug into the asphalt. The car finally stopped without rolling over. There was a steep drop on my left that, praise be to God, we did not go over. Put the spare temporary on and drove away with no apparent damage. Has anybody had a problem with a run away engine or did I do something that may have brought about this event?
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    You might just have a leak at the connectors on the engine side of the firewall, i.e. the heater core might not be leaking internally. The leaked coolant would then get swept into the airstream and carried into the air intake for the passenger compartment. Alternatively, the leaked liquid coolant might then be getting around the seal and into the passenger compartment. If it is leaking there, then you might be able to see the leak.

    To determine whether this is a possible source of the leak could take some examination and knowledge of the controls of the heating system. But even without much knowledge you might be able to see a leak just examining the connections at the firewall with the engine on and warmed up. In my 2004 non-turbo V70 the connections of the two heater hoses are clearly visible on the driver's side of the the firewall (two approx 1" diameter hoses with crimp connectors to right angle black plastic connectors.) Have a look!

    A leak at the connections might be a lot cheaper to repair than replacing the heater core. It could be that one or both of the two heater hoses could be replaced (or even just one or both of the connectors); getting new sealing elements might stop the leak. You can get a leak analysis.

    Why did you get a cooling system flush? Were you having problems with the cooling system? It could be that the flush caused this leak.
  • sheraotwpsheraotwp Member Posts: 9
    thanks for responding and for your suggestions. My mechanic purchased the heater core (per my request) and plans to install it tomorrow, but I will take your suggestions to him, and I will have him will check for leaks first - he's an honest guy :-).
    I did not have the radiator flushed. My mechanic doesn't think it will need it. I can't figure out how to see my post so I don't remember my wording, but I might have meant the second problem the car is having, which is with the transmission. so i may have asked about a transmission flush.... the transmission did a weird thing one day where I was stopped in traffic, with foot on brake. then when I stepped on the gas, nothing happened. as if it was in N. then the electronic letter flashed between D and N and R. I turned off the engine and restarted and it was fine. My mechanic read the code and I think it said clutch slippage. He thought the fluid was dirty. Volvo dealer thought the fluid looked "wrong". wrong color - too pink for having 78k miles since it was last drained. and wrong smell-not synthetic. So they recommend flushing it. Volvo charges $400!! another Volvo dealer charges $250. synthetic fluid is pricey, but I read on some blogs that Mobil JWS 3309 fluid is the same for much less $. any advise here is greatly appreciated! thanks again. Arlene
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    To read previous posts you can go to previous pages in the page list at the bottom of the page. But if you want to follow a trail of replies select the light grey text at the top "Replying to: . . ." then do the same on that post, etc.

    Modern cooling system practice is to simply drain and replace the coolant with fresh. In the past some people did perform pressurized flushing of the cooling system. It had been found that such treatment often caused more problems than it solved, so drain and replace is the way to go (unless you had some specific blockage and were very careful not to apply too much pressure in the flush).

    A given auto tranny requires a specific type of fluid. Personally I would go with the Volvo fluid which was originally in the vehicle. I don't have any knowledge as to whether the Mobile AT fluid that you referenced is an acceptable substitute for the original equipment (OE) Volvo one or not.
  • donhuntdonhunt Member Posts: 2
    I have not yet received a reply, though research has led me to many similar incidents m one involving the death of a 22 year old daughter driving her father's car. Hear this, Two days after the acceleration down hill problem I had a reoccurance.. Same hill and drive. This time in addition to putting the car into park , pulling on the emergency brake and pressing the regular brake with all my strength, I also turned off the key. I missed the drive this time and crashed through trees and down a steep bank crashing into the bank on the upside of the ditch. My glasses and the keys were found in the back seat. Thank God no injuries.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    According to the discussion below there is a new Mobile "semi-syntheitc" ATF which may be better than Mobile 3309. Evidently Mobile 3309 is not synthetic.

    http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=113332
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Here is a discussion of transmission issues:
    http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=113477.

    Concerning the cooling system, in your post referenced above, you did state that you got a cooling system flush. And you also state that the defrosting performance is not good, as well as there being an odor. One effect of a leaking heater core is that volatilized ethylene glycol (the main ingredient by weight in the antifreeze) condenses on the insides of the windshield and on the windows as an oily feeling film. (Wipe it with your index finger and then rub the finger and thumb together.) This would definitely be classified as poor defrosting performance.
  • sheraotwpsheraotwp Member Posts: 9
    I'm confused.... the discussion you referenced seems to be talking about engine oil. I was referring to transnmission fluid. Does anyone know if the Mobile JWS 3309 is synthetic transmission fluid that is compatable with Volvo V70 2001 2.4L? I can't believe the price the Dealer is asking $210 just for the fluid!! :mad: I love the car faces ;-)
    thanks, Arlene
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    One person in the discussion referred to "oil", but he was not referring to engine oil (aka motor oil, which lubricates the engine, or just oil). He was referring to automatic transmission oil, which is nowadays usually called automatic transmission fluid, usually abbreviated ATF.

    In the discussion these seemingly knowlegeable people refer to "Mobile 3309" and to some newer, apparently semisynthetic, ATF by Mobile which may be better than 3309. However, so far I haven't been able to find any other reference to this other Mobile ATF. Maybe it is still called 3309 but either the formula has been tweaked or 3309 has been further tested so that it's advertised applications have increased.

    According to this site Mobile 3309 can be used in Volvo transmissions: http://store.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html.

    By the way the 5-spd auto tranny in my 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo is made by Aisin of Japan, and I believe that yours is an Aisin too. Aisin may also make trannys for Toyota, hence the question by some whether a certain Toyota ATF will work in the Volvo. The answer is not clear to me. But it does appear that Mobile 3309 will work in the Aisin trannys in our Volvos.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    This should all really go into the transmission forum, but I'm just going to finish my reply here. Note that reportedly the Volvo ATF is fully synthetic which means it should last longer than a non-synthetic or even a semi-synthetic. (This is if one can rely on the reports of phone calls to Volvo.)

    This from another discussion on Swedespeed Forums:

    "The Volvo fluid is JWS 3309. Check the latest technet note 40-04 about fluids for transmissions and AWD Volvos.
    Heres the copy for it:

    NO: 40-04
    DATE: 10-13-2005
    MODEL/YEAR: All Models
    SUBJECT: Transmission and AWD Lubricants
    REFERENCE: Owners Manual and VIDA
    Application Note Part Number
    • 5 and 6 Speed Automatic Transmissions
    -AW55
    -TF80-SC
    This fluid is also recommended to address two
    complaints on the AW 50-42:
    •Harsh Lock-Up engagement/disengagement
    (SB 43-0029)
    •Squeaking noise during low speed turns
    (TNN 43-11)
    JWS 3309
    The only oil approved for the 5 and 6
    speed automatic transmissions is JWS
    3309. None of the other fluids available
    on the market have been evaluated by
    Volvo to meet the requirements of
    these specific transmissions regarding:
    • Shift quality
    • Slipping lock-up functionality
    • Transmission durability
    1161540 (1 liter)
    1161640 (4 liter)

    Reply from another poster

    I see what you've posted...even if it and the Mobil-1 both are JWS3309, one is synthetic (Volvo's...as confirmed by them to me) and Mobil-1's isn't (confirmed by Mobil Oil Co. to me). You can use either, I know...but if it were me, I would rather stay with the more expensive synthetic ATF.

    But other posters state that the newest version of Mobile 3309 are in fact synthetic. So in my car I would use the latest version of Mobile 3309 if it indicated on the label that it met the Aisin specification of JWS3309.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    This may clear things up a little. Posted in the transmission thread to keep on topic...

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e2cb2/248
  • tradotrado Member Posts: 2
    i replaced the pcv and engine still has to much pressure its leaking out of the seals 98 v70 2.4t awd
  • tradotrado Member Posts: 2
  • curtcharlespdxcurtcharlespdx Member Posts: 5
    2000 V70R, 56K miles. Runs super. Check Engine Light (CEL) is mostly on, occasionally off. OBD II reads "Low Catalytic Converter Efficiency". We replaced the CatCon (with a cut-rate aftermarket) but CEL was still on/off as before. Re-installed the original equipment CatCon.

    Suggestions on what to try next? O2 sensor? Front or rear one? Other?
  • mk2rockmk2rock Member Posts: 4
  • mk2rockmk2rock Member Posts: 4
    Good day,

    I have a 2000 XCV70 that is leaking oil.

    local mechanic put a dye at the last oil change, and is now indicating that the valve cover gaskets are leaking.

    I read some where that these models do not have gaskets but a special sealant, and this is a major undertaking.

    Is this correct? Or are there in fact gaskets that can be easily repalced,,,

    Any help is appreciated
  • lac3lac3 Member Posts: 3
    I'm not sure if these are the same issue or two separate ones. Note, I did have Auto Zone scan the codes and there were none. (The dealership wanted $100 to do it).

    NOTE: THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DIDN'T COME ON WITH EITHER OF THESE ISSUES. I'm told that with minor engine issues its not always serious enough for it to come on. Although it did come on when I didn't tighten the gas cap (LOL).

    FIRST ISSUE: Noise sounding like "sleigh bells" coming from the engine (merry xmas haha)- the mechanic said it was the serpentine belt or the adjuster lever (forgot what he actually called it) I told him it was worse when A/C on - I turned on A/C it was worse (big time). He had me turn it off and he pulled the lever that adjusts/keeps the serpetine belt uniform and it made the same noise each time he pulled it.

    SECOND ISSUE: its been hot around here so lately I've been using a/c - driving along in traffic 30 mph the power starts to go and fluctuates between 1000 and 2000 rpm. Then yellow arrow comes on and I have to pull over (limp mode). Turn off the a/c and turn the engine back on; the yellow arrow isn't on and am able to get home (2 miles away) without problem and without using the a/c.

    ThE 1-2k fluctuation also happened on a prior occasion on the freeway 70 mph, a/c on. Didn't know what to do, first time it happened, so I turned the a/c off and dropped it down a gear to try and get more rpms. It worked. At the time I didn't relate it to the a/c, but now I do.

    The mechanic doesn't know if the two problems are related to each other and if an issue with the serpentine belt would put the vehicle into limp mode. He will charge an arm and a leg to figure it out, so can someone here tell me so I can go back and fill him in. He is open to listening to what you guys say.

    thanks - hope you can help. The last mechanic I went to to change the thermostat wanted $275. Said its the labor that it will take and that's what having a volvo does. My son who had injured his shoulder changed the $20 part in 15 mins with one hand.

    Thanks so much - hope I hear from someone soon - if you can't tell by this long-winded and probably too much detailed question, I'm a female! LOL.
  • sam2010sam2010 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    My V70 2004 started to have noise under the hood, that stops with pulling out oil dipstick or taking off oil cap. At same time appreciable vacum can be felt at dipstick and oil cap oppenings. My mechanic freind saidthat oilseparator cluging causes this problem. I found similar explanations on some forums. However I do not understend how oil separator can cause excessive vacume in crankcase. Is there any valve that conects oil separator with intake manifold negative pressure. Is it possible that not separator but such valve causese problem with nauise from excess vacum in crankcase.When I had problems with PCV system on my GLT850 I had smoke coming from dipstick and oil cap openning and there was positive pressure and not vaccum. Does this model has fire trap or substitue and may it be clugged?

    Thank you for sharing yourexperiance
  • lac3lac3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your time and input.

    But I did end up aking it to a volvo mechanic and it was the serpentine belt that was worn and the lever that adjusts it making the noise.
  • lac3lac3 Member Posts: 3
    Oops sorry about the prior post - if I knew how to delete it I would! I didn't read everything and thought your response was sent to me coz it was in reply to my posted problems.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    I'm trying to help out an old high school friend of mine with her car problem. She's a single mom (actually a 35-year old widow) and has already spent a ridiculous amount of money taking her car to the service department at the local Volvo dealer with no resolution!

    Her car is a 2002 V70 2.4T with only 82,000 miles on it. The problem occurs when you open the throttle over 1/4 or so, the car basically bogs down. It doesn't accelerate and actually feels like it's trying to stall. It will actually decelerate at times, especially up steep hills, if you floor the gas pedal.

    I recall having some very similar problems with a '96 Honda Accord that I owned, but it had around 120k miles on it. The culprit was the PCV valve and replacing it solved the issue.

    I'm no mechanic, but could it also be the PCV valve on her V70? The dealership has charged her over $2500 in the last year "trying" to fix the problem. On her last visit, they suggested that the turbocharger could be the culprit. Is that a possibility, based on the symptoms I've described, or is it just their way of making a few thousand dollars more off of her???

    In the meantime, I've advised her NEVER to take the car back to the dealership after the warranty expires! Find an honest, respected and knowledgeable independent shop that specializes in Volvos or Swedish cars in general. I've found a few nearby shops that specialize in Volvos among other makes/models.

    She was continuing to drive the car (with a feather-light foot on the gas pedal) until recently. I have a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I keep as a spare and I loaned it to her until we get this problem figured out on her V70....

    Any help or guidance would be GREATLY appreciated here! Thanks so much!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Hard to say without having the car in person. The dealership should be able to just read the fault codes - $2500 borders on criminal - she should complain.

    Off the top of my head, I would add O2 sensors, ignition coils, and fuel filter/pump to the list of possible problems.
  • tunerimportstunerimports Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    First I have to agree about the borderline criminal part, thats outrageous! That said, I am a Mechanic and am pretty good with imports so... Turn on the car let it warm up for 10 min then look under at the catalytic converter if its smoking or red hot then you have a plugged converter this will cause the car not to have power over 3000 RPMs or so due to the back pressure. It is doubtful that the coils in the ignition went out as there are no moving parts in it but stranger things have happened. its not the O2 ether even with a bad o2 it would go back to factory settings and still run just not as good. If its not the cat then most likely I have to agree that its fuel pump or filter probably filter. Hope this helps and isint to late.
  • sixsmithsixsmith Member Posts: 2
    I had a simular problem with my 2004 V-70. I had the throttle body cleaned. I do this every 30,000 kl. I go to the local high school, they do it very cheap. Hope this helps. Never sets a code.
  • sixsmithsixsmith Member Posts: 2
    I had a simular problem with my 2004 V-70. I had the throttle body cleaned. I do this every 30,000 kl. I go to the local high school, they do it very cheap. Hope this helps. Never sets a code.
This discussion has been closed.