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Mitsubishi Outlander Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • I am trying to get a 2011 outlander se 4wd. We have been haggling the price for days. I think there trying to screws me because I'm a woman!! Lol
    Did you get the rebates and 0% financing?? Can I ask how much it was off the sticker........actually,vim asking your advice on how to get them down. My deal does not seem like a deal. Sticker is 28,910. With the 2500. Rebate (Manufacter and loyalty) and 1910. Off sticker, the car is now $24,500. I think I should get more than 1910. Off sticker, right?? Plus, it's 2.19% financing. Thanks
  • fbkordfbkord Posts: 17
    Knowledge is power. I got the information I needed from www.truecar.com. Just log in and put in the car information. The site will give you the value for the car. I also used Consumer's Report services to get the best price for the car. It cost me $40.00.
    Once I had that information, I walked in the dealership and told them what I would pay for the car and showed them the source of my numbers. They really didn't have much to say. The discount I got was over $7000.00.
    I did not get the 0% deal. They could not give me that rate for the price I had negotiated. I was fine with that. My credit union offers .5% interest rate.
    Hope this helps.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The 2011 Outlander GT has a $2000 payback + $500 loyalty.

    The 2012 Outlander GT has $500 loyalty
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Check the figures given by Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) for your area. They are fair prices
  • coachraycoachray Posts: 4
    I am in the midst of purchasing a 2012 Outlander as well. I have a sales price of $19490 for a GT model. MSRP is $24550. I don't know if this includes destination if not add $810 more. Good price or not?
  • coachraycoachray Posts: 4
    Sorry I mean SE Model no extras. Now they are saying that price included rebates. So real price is 20490 plus $810 destination charge. Soooo 21,300 plus ttl roughly 10% in ca so out the door $25,580. Pull the trigger or shop around. The dealer over the phone said thats the best we can do over the phone. If I come in then we can negotiate. I told him the whole purpose of me to do this over the phone is to save time because life is made up of time and I'm not going to waste it in the dealership. He asked me then what I wanted to pay. So I know there is wiggle room. Thoughts anyone???
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    You are not clear enough to give you a proper suggestion. The Outlander ES is sold as 2WD or 4WD. Also I do not know if the car is brand new or has been used as a demonstrator (enquire number of miles on the clock).

    Equally although the car may be registered in 2012 does not mean that the car is indeed manufactured in 2012. Check the VIN number of the car and if the 8th digit counted from the right end is B = 2011 or C = 2012.

    Outlander 2011 sold in 2012 has a rebate of $2000. Outlander manufactured in 2012 and sold in 2012 has a loyalty rebate of only $500.

    After you are clear about the above I may suggest if the deal is good or not. Dealers will not give best figures just by telephone. You may need to physically inspect the car. There are many features that may reduce the price of the car sharply. For example if the collapsed rear seat vibrates or rattles while the car is moving it is not good. Doors which fit unevenly also are not good, or if you look at the engine compartment and see that the air conductor is floppy or there are a few missing screws/nuts, etc then walk away from the deal.
  • coachraycoachray Posts: 4
    Here is the deal: 2012 (made sure with the VIN#) SE Outlander. Has 4 miles on the odometer. Price including destination is 20,900. Out the door 23,034. It has no extras. I am not getting any rebate with this price. Good deal or not? Price is in southern california.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Good deal! I think you should buy it. Give the car a good test drive and check it fully. Is the car 2WD or 4WD?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    These are the real figures my dealer wants me to pay:

    Cost for the car (including options and accessories): $29,182
    Tax to pay 8.5% (of $29,182): $2,485.15 (**)
    DMW (Paper work + license plate): $363.75
    Less $500 Loyalty,
    Less $1000 rebate from MMA,

    That makes it a grand total of $30,530.90 (on the road)

    (**) I am not happy with this calculation because the dealer should tax $29,182 - $1500 = $27,682 i.e. 27,682 x 0.085 = $2,352.97. It appears that the dealer doing this type of calculation will pocket $132.18 that rightfully belongs to me if we play by the right rules. MMA in its web page takes away the loyalty pay and the cash back from the price of the car before taxes and DMW. Even Edmunds takes away the cash back before calculating the taxes.

    What has convinced the dealer to do that type of calculation? Is it legal? Can the dealer get away with that? Will the dealer indeed pay to the tax office $2,485.15? Can the dealer, sometimes after, claim that the customer has paid too much tax and reclaimed it for himself? Is this way of customer taxation something accepted in the Car Businesses? What can I do?
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    Sales tax laws vary by state and this is only my understanding of it so YMMV.

    You're paying $29182 for the car so you pay sales tax on that. The rebate is technically a separate transaction. Much like the rebate you might get at Fry's for buying computer parts.

    Cars are so expensive that dealers & manufacturers have set up the auto purchase process to allow you to sign over the rebate to the dealer in order to make the initial purchase price easier to swallow. You sign it over to them as part of the purchase paperwork. If you didn't, Mitsu would send you a check for the rebate amount.

    BTW if your dealer was collecting profit under the line item "sales tax" in order to get you to pay, your state's Dept. of Revenue would be very interested in them. That's fraud against the consumer and tax evasion against the state government.

    WRT auto purchasing, the only thing I've heard of that impacts sales tax is how the state considers trade-ins. Some allow trade-ins to reduce the purchase price (and thus the sales tax); others don't.
  • coachraycoachray Posts: 4
    2wd thanks. If checks out. Gonna buy.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,486
    Rebates are almost always included in the taxable amount for car purchases (similar to a toaster..lol).

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    It appears that some states do, indeed, what my dealer has done in calculating the taxes. Please check:

    http://couponing.about.com/od/automobiledeals/a/cartaxfacts.htm

    Please give your comments.

    An institution called “Consumer Federation of America” seems to care for consumers, especially car buyers.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    A reporter is looking for new-car buyers who feel they've been victimized by unscrupulous salespeople. Email pr@edmunds.com no later than Friday, April 13, 2012 with a few words about your experience.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • iownoneiownone Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2012 outlander SE 2wd w/ Premium/Towing/Protection/Fuse and wheel locks. 22268.89 was the price I paid plus TTL. I believe I got a fair price. I live in Georgia so hopefully this helps the south east buyers. (or any buyers for that matter)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Today I have received my 2012 Outlander GT. One of the options I have ordered was the MZ380465EX (rear parking sensors kit). I thought I could activate the rear sensors by using a rear parking sensor switch (ON/OFF) located in the switch push button area. I was wrong. The system, even the buzzer/sonar, is located in the rear of the car. This is a departure from Outlander cars in Europe and Australia where the ECU Corner/Back sensor-ECU (proper module) are located just under the driver instrumentation panel which control the flow of signals to the sensors in the rear of the car.

    The US sensor kit is just a very elementary set of harnesses that are attached to the interior of the rear bumper following the path of the side marker lights wires. Electrical energy is drawn from the reverse rear light lamp wires (when the reverse gear is engaged) to energise the parking sensors. This arrangement is just a very cheap (that anybody or garage) can perform. This arrangement only works when the car is engaged in reverse.

    If you have a trailer, or anything that you are pulling it will activate the buzzer when reversing even if you are in the middle of nowhere. A high level of electronics is involved in the manual activation or manual deactivation of the rear parking sensors and a separate module (ECU) is needed just to control a set of combinations of engaging reverse without/with buzzing.

    My dealer’s explanation was that (after consulting with MMA) he told me that the US government has given a rule forbidding the deactivation of the buzzer and sensors while reversing. This is, according to the dealer, the justification of why Mitsubishi (Japan) has installed, for the US market, the parking sensor, without an On/Off switch, so it always buzzes when reversing and approaching something.

    I wonder if such a rule has even been given by the US government for cars of any make from 2012. This contradicts the fact that option MZ380465EX (Mitsubishi cars) has been on the market since 2010 (December). The kit has never been sold with sonar switch, nor with a mini ECU (Corner/back sensor-ECU) that control all the combinations (reversing/non reversing-buzzer on/buzzer off, switch on/ switch off, etc) so how can the US government give a rule for a kit that never had a sonar switch included, nor a corner/back sensor-ECU to control all the combinations buzzer/reversing/switch. This is what happens with Mitsubishi cars in Europe and Australia where the control of the sonar/reversing/switch ECU is located under the driver instrumentation panel.

    Please give your comments about this weird US rule.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    All your options and accessories you got was for free!
  • I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2012 Outlander GT, but they're trying to tell me the 2012 $1000 rebate doesn't apply to leases. Here's the language:

    2012 Outlander
    Negotiate your best price and get a $1,000 factory rebate on a new 2012 Outlander. Retailer price and vehicle availability may vary. May not combine with special APR or special Lease offers. See your Mitsubishi retailer for details. Offer valid from 06/01/2012 through 07/31/2012.

    Notice that it states "special lease offers." I'm taking this to mean that it's not applicable to one of the special lease rates like this:

    2012 Outlander 2.4 ES 2WD CVT Lease
    Lease example for 2012 Outlander 2.4 ES 2WD CVT, MSRP $22,345 plus $810 ($935 Alaska / Hawaii) destination handling. Available through Mitsubishi Motors Credit of America, subject to approved credit and insurance. Not all customers will qualify. Retailer price, terms and vehicle availability may vary. Other lease terms/details apply. May not combine with factory cash rebates. See your Mitsubishi retailer for details. Offer valid from 06/01/2012 through 07/31/2012.

    I'm not getting a "special" lease. I'm just getting a car at the agreed price and leasing it instead of buying. Anyone have any experience on this? Shouldn't the $1000 rebate still apply?
  • mevandemevande Posts: 190
    They should not treat a woman any diffidently, but I have female friends that have had less that positive experiences with the sales reps calling them 'Hun' ect. I would tell them if you don't meet my fair offer, I am leaving NOW and going elsewhere. There is a good website called http://www.truecar.com and you can put in your exact car and it will give you what others are paying.

    I don't know where you live, but Ray Skillman Mitsubishi is always dealing with huge discounts for they are the largest Mitsubishi dealer in the state.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have the new Mitsubishi 2014 Outlander brochure and to my disappointment it still appears that it does not treat US customers with respect.

    European countries including Russia, Japan, Australia, etc by law all car with HID/xenon headlights “must” have a headlamp washer and an automatic self-leveling mechanism. Well the “New” Mitsubishi Outlander 2014 does not have any of these technologies, although, these technologies have been going on for more than 8-years in other parts of the world.

    This stuff is not difficult to install. Mass production of these two items perhaps does not cost more than $20 each. Why Mitsubishi US does not do something that may cheer up new customers. Four cylinder 2.0 liters engines nowadays are producing more than 240 HP at less RPM than the Outlander 230 HP 3.0 liters. It is a disappointment indeed. .

    The Outlander 3.0 Liter needs a better engine. Equally the US and Canada are lagging in applying safety measures already opted for in Europe by a false sense of pride.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    It seems you have two complaints:

    1. Self-leveling lights w/washers.
    2. Engine offerings.

    WRT item 1, I doubt many would be willing to pay for those features. The most common use patterns for CUVs don't involve situations where self-leveling is really that much of an advantage over the manual adjustment. Few people actually tax the suspension with a heavy cargo load and if they do it;s likely to be during the day when hauling goods from the local home improvement store.

    I think you could make a much stronger case for directional headlights that swivel left/right as the vehicle is turning instead.

    Headlight washers remains something of a premium feature in the US. Perhaps the next refresh will add them as premium features trickle down to the mainstream but it may take others in the segment offering them to convince Mitsu to make it available. Who in the segment offers them now (non-luxury brands)? How much are you willing to pay for the feature?

    As to engine choices, who in the US sells a 2.0 non-turbo that kicks out 240+HP? Toyota doesn't (2.5L @ 176HP). Honda doesn't (2.4 @ 185HP). Hyundai doesn't (2.4 @ 190HP). Ford's Eco-boot engines are turbocharged.

    Really, at least Mitsu still offers a V6. Honda never has in the CR-V. Toyota has dropped it from the RAV4. Hyundai has replaced it with the 264HP 2.0 turbo which, incidentally, gets worse fuel economy than the Mitsu V6. Ford's 2.0 turbo isn't available with AWD.

    Oh, and fuel economy with Mitsu's 3L V6 is up by close to 20%.

    I still believe the real excitement is the PHEV edition. But I can't get too worked up about it until pricing is revealed.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    edited June 2013
    OK. It appears that more than 2/3 of car manufactured after 2010 with bi-xenon headlights have automatic self-leveling mechanism and jet washer headlamps. The law in the US does not explicitly say that cars with xenon headlights or LED headlights must have washers and self-leveling mechanism. High adventurous manufacturer BMW has not shied away from implementing new features into their cars as for example, BMW X1 SUV which provide all of these features.

    Perhaps there is a better opinion but it appears that 2/3 of car drivers’ care about driving safely without endangering viability of oncoming drivers. Road imperfections (e.g. bumps) can direct powerful xenon lights directly onto the oncoming driver’s eyes practically blinding oncoming drivers temporarily. This phenomenon does not happen with halogen headlights. This safety measurement, I believe, will be adopted by law in the US in the near future

    Xenon or LED lights are not just a fancy feature. They have been proved that they save energy (fuel) and that point was the main reason of the approval of these features in Europe as well as other areas of the planet. However, because they are 3-4 times more powerful than halogen and in order to protect oncoming drivers from being temporarily blinded by these suns like beams, a headlamp washer and automatic self-leveling mechanism are compulsory in vehicles with xenon or LED headlamps.

    In countries with long flat roads (e.g. US, Argentine, Russia, etc) a DRL is compulsory. This measurement is needed, once more, to protect drivers from colliding. I did note the usefulness of the DRL on the very long and flat countryside in Argentine where oncoming cars are camouflaged with the horizon of the countryside. DRL definitely break that camouflaged pattern.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    http://skywire.discovery.com/#sweeps

    Mitsu is the exclusive automobile sponsor for the Skywire walk across the Grand Canyon in a couple of weeks. As part of the promotion they're giving away a newly designed 2014 Outlander.

    Enter daily to increase your chances of winning.

    I'll cross-post this to the Mitsu News thread.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    I was at the dealer this morning for my semi-annual oil change this morning. Also did a tire rotation which I wind up doing about every other oil change based on my relatively low mileage.

    While waiting, I ran into my salesman who showed me a Cosmic Blue Metallic '14 Outlander GT. Sticker with destination was just over $35K. As I'm not in the market I didn't ask for a test drive, but here are some impressions after spending about 20 minutes with the car.
    • New grill/front end: Looks nice in person. Not overly aggressive or overly styled like some other carmakers are doing.

    • Overall body: I haven't checked the specs but it looks a little bit bigger. The aero tweaks are there and I think they work well. It's an attractive if, again, less aggressive look.

    • Rear hatch: The split hatch is gone. :cry: But in it's place is a new power hatch so convenience is up overall. There's a small lip, probably under an inch, between the bottom of the opening & the cargo floor.

    • Cargo area: The spare is still underneath so cargo room is not affected. The 3rd row (standard) is greatly improved & simplified. It's no longer a Chinese puzzle to put up/take town. Just grab 1 tether & pull. Headrests are by default detached and store in a small tray under the cargo floor; very easy access & you can use the tray for other items as well. There's a pocket on the right that should hold a gallon of milk & keep it upright. The subwoofer housing is smaller/less intrusive.

    • 3rd row seats: As I said, it's a huge improvement. It's also split so you can seat 6 & still haul a decent amount of cargo.

    • 2nd row: Mixed bag here. It's still split 60/40 and still slides forward and reclines. There's still a center fold-down armrest but it's not quite as nice as the outgoing model. The seats slide forward easily to allow better 3rd row access. The seatbacks now fold flat but the mechanism is more complicated: flip the seat bottom forward, lock the seat in place (lever), remove the headrest, flip the seatback forward. Headrests are conveniently stowed on the flipped forward seat bottom.

    • Front seats: largely unchanged. Seat heater buttons have been moved to the console between the seats so they're easier to press. The arm rest/storage area is basically the same size but is now 1 area (the upper small tray is gone). The AV RCA jacks are gone but the USB & 12V power port remain. The travel tissue holder & pen clip remain as well.

    • Dash & IP: The gauge cluster is pretty similar but the IP & rest of dash have been totally reworked. Everything looks far more upscale. The black plastic trim even has some metallic flakes; a nice touch. HVAC controls are dual-zone with easy to operate, logical controls.

    • Stereo & Navi: The Rockford-Fosgate 710 watt unit doesn't get a bump in power but the features & interface have been modernized. The hard drive has been replaced with an SD card slot. Maps are stored on a second (user-accessible) SD card. Radio now does HD and has DTS and other updates. The UI is more attractive, not only the buttons but the on-screen displays. Screen is 6.1"; I'd have preferred 7-8" for the Navi but that's a minor nit.

    • Misc.: We did start the engine; the AC came on strong & cold. The door cupholders are now upright v. angled. The sunroof appears unchanged; some will say too small. The drive mode selector (Tarmac-Snow-Gravel) has been replaced by a button. Front center cupholders are now in front of the shift lever, reducing but not eliminating the storage cubby. Emergency key storage (in case the fob battery dies) is now in the cubby & not the glovebox. Steering wheel controls are better integrated.

    • Adaptive Cruise Control & Lane Departure Warning controls were there so the promised features have been delivered.

    Overall I'd say it's a major upgrade. I'm still waiting for the PHEV edition, which my salesman said would be released in September. He said that the PHEV should command about an $8K premium so I'd have to do the math to see what the payback would be.
  • solowalkersolowalker Posts: 118
    edited June 2013
    35K plus tax for an Outtie is getting into the BMW X-1 range.. :( .I'm going to be looking to trade my '07 XLS 4WD for a new ride in January.. I still love my 07 with 80K on the clock however, the trade value will still be good with only 80K because of the transferable 100K drive train warranty...If I can do a deal for a V6 4WD leather at around 31K or so, I will strongly consider purchasing a 2014 Outtie..
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    Keep in mind the $35K is for a fully loaded Outlander - AWD, V6, Navi, Sun-n-sound, leather, etc.

    The X1 is smaller; the X3 would be the right BMW to compare with and it starts @ almost $40K for a base. That's for their turbo 4 cyl which gets worse gas mileage. There are other differences, like the Outlander's 7 seat capacity and higher payload rating & BMW's use of expensive run-flat tires.

    The base Outlander is $23K.
  • solowalkersolowalker Posts: 118
    Yes, I hear you on the BMW specs...I live in the mountains and a Beemer is a bit too delicate for the use I give to a vehicle...I use my Outtie as a combination 4WD Jeep and a travel machine..The Outtie is tough as nails in the back country and after almost 7 years the only thing that went wrong with my ride so far is the radiator drain plug cracking and coming loose...I hate the third row seating though...I wanted to remove it but it required too much work...Hopefully, they will have a 2014 V6 without the third row seating...
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    Well, Mitsu made it standard, probably to help stand apart from some of the competition and to serve as an alternative to those who might otherwise opt for a larger SUV.

    And the 14 Outlander's 3rd row is redesigned & much improved. Just pull it up and slap on the headrests if desired. Equally easy to stow. Access to it is better as well since the 2nd row seats slide forward more. Check it out the next time you drive by a dealer.

    I think I'd read that the PHEV edition will be a 5-seater as they have to put the battery somewhere. Not the solution you're after but something you might consider, especially if gas/operating costs are a concern.

    The only problem my '10 GT has had was an underperforming AC compressor that was replaced under warranty. I should cross 31K miles by the end of the day so I admit I don't rack 'em up that fast but it's reliability is about as good as possible.
  • sierramsierram Posts: 2
    edited October 2013
    My dad bought a 14 Outlander SE AWD for $500 over invoice (before fees and taxes) with the 0% finance. Did he get a good deal? He didn't qualify for any of the other discounts.
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