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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

245

Comments

  • mechonemechone Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 GMC Safari van. Today my van died on me while idling on a encline driveway for about 3 mins. My van will crank all day but wont start. I have checked the coil and not getting any spark from it. I swapped it with a known good one off my other old van and I still have the same problem. I even swapped the ignition control module. Still no spark.

    Is there a fuse that would control this?

    Does the coil and control module have to be mounted for a good ground to work?

    I check for a spark by unplugging the spark plug wire from the distrubitor and holding near the manifold and cranking the engine.

    Where else should I check?
  • mechonemechone Member Posts: 4
    Found the problem :)
    Blown fuse in the engine capartment
    ALL GOOD NOW!
  • lslllsll Member Posts: 18
    I have an 96 Safari van that it started and then quit. It was the ignition coil that was replaced. If you do it yourself it is under $100. If you have a Tuffy's near buy they will check it for free.
  • lslllsll Member Posts: 18
    I would have the ingition coil check. Also, check your fueld injector system. Take to a Tuffy's if you have one they will check for free.
  • lslllsll Member Posts: 18
    It could be the ignition coil.
  • lslllsll Member Posts: 18
    You could have a small hole in a hose somewhere. If it is going down then it is in the front.
  • steve154steve154 Member Posts: 3
    Help, I just spent all day trying to get my truck to run. It started fine this morning. Then 30 seconds down the road the engine quit running. Then it is very hard to get started. It cranks fine. I replaced the cap and rotor, fuel filter and made sure I can hear the fuel pump. I can use starting fluid to get it started (sometimes) and then it will idle for an hour. As soon as I start to drive it dies. If I take the key out of the ignition and wit a minuet it starts if not it just keeps cranking. I would apreciate any help or suggestions. the check engine light does not come on. No codes. thanks
  • tjo716tjo716 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 astro is frequently difficult to start. I do hear the fuel pump run before starting (but not as long as it used to run for).

    Sometimes it takes 4-6 attempts to get it started, other time just one. It seems the longer it sits the harder it is to start.

    Fuel filter was replaced and no difference. Should I just get a new pump or could it be another problem?

    Thanks
    Tom
  • james88james88 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 GMC Safari (133,000 miles). Every so often (4-5 weeks) it doesn't start. After a day or so it starts & runs fine. I think it is electrical. The fuel pump was replace due to low pressure, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. What is the life on the ignition coil, rotor etc. Any suggestions or similair experiences ?
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 98 astro van just cranks over fuel pump ok new fuel filter, plugs, cap, wires, have fuel and spark but no start has 75,000 miles on it well maintainted. after tring to start it with dog house off. not turning off the key I hear a couple clicks which Im pretty sure is normal the a electrical pop noise some where by the distrutor
  • tjphtjph Member Posts: 1
    After I'v driven the van longer then 15-20 mins I go into the store and come back out and it doesn't start. Any ideas no one can figure it out!!
  • gregorysgregorys Member Posts: 1
    I need some help to solve this one. Once in awhile my Safari will have an extended crank time before it fires up. Sometimes I have to crank two or three times before it starts. Normally it starts right off the bat like a new vehicle. Back in July I had the fuel pump replaced along with the stuff that goes with it. After I had the vehicle serviced in October it starting doing this extended crank time before it starts. I took it back to my GM dealership to have it looked at. No codes were found, they checked the fuel pressure, which was at 60 to 62 psi, which they told me was good. They found nothing and charged me about $100.00. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold it may randomly do this. My thought is that there is a sensor that is bad someplace because the fuel pump is working and something is not firing. When it does this extended crank and the vehicle finally starts I can smell gas and I get a cloud of blue/white exhaust out of the tailpipe. Anybody have any suggestions?
  • babalouwebabalouwe Member Posts: 2
    I have had 2 safari vans. A 94 and a 97 which i currently have. Both had the same problem that you are having. I solved the problem on both of them by replacing cap,rotor,plugs and wires. Your plugs are now gas fouled from lack of spark and once you start it you smell the raw gas.The plugs are not easy to change.You need to get the motor running good.I also had the check engine light on telling me all kinds of sensor problems which went away 10 mins after i replaced parts.I had it at 3 garages who pluged it into a scanner that said i needed to replace both o2 sensors, coolant sensor, and converter needed replacing. I then replaced the parts i listed and problem was solved.I stopped by the garages and told them what i did and they all said that they assumed that the van was allready tuned up. OKKKKKKK I hope this solves your problem.
  • babalouwebabalouwe Member Posts: 2
    Oh by the way my 94 had no codes so you dont always get a code.
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    It was the cap and rotor which was less the a year old but good old Ohio weather made them go bad
  • jasmontejasmonte Member Posts: 1
    HI there i have a 99 astro doing the same thing, have you had any luck getting it started ?
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    did you check for fuel pressure and spark if you have those try the cap and rotor they are notorious for going bad in wet weather ( note you can still get spark from the spark plug wire and still have a bad cap and rotor
  • atlhotboyatlhotboy Member Posts: 2
  • atlhotboyatlhotboy Member Posts: 2
    Alright I am not the most mechanical guy so I thought I would try to forums before getting reamed by the mechanic. It is very wet and foggy/dew'y out today and my cargo van won't start. It isn't the battery b/c the engine turns over just fine. Just no VRRRRRUM... Any help or pointers to getting this thing running would be appreciated.
    Thank you in advance!
  • pretzel127pretzel127 Member Posts: 1
    95 Astro loses power and almost stalls when I put the pedal to the floor. I first noticed it when I was on the expressway a couple days ago and went to pass. The van just surged and started losing power, unless I let up on the pedal then it gradually (slowly) builds up speed again. My first thought was Catalytic converter or a sensor, I checked the codes and I just get a 12 code over and over. Should I have recieved another code? How do you know that its done reading? I watched the 12 code for a couple minutes.

    I took it to autozone where a friend works and he suggested I pull the trans pan and changed the filter, so I did but that didn't help. I really don't think it's the trans itself.

    Any suggestions?
  • habby10habby10 Member Posts: 2
    Oh boy, have been trying to figure this one out for a few years,. I have a 95 safari, it wont start if its cold or wet, at one time a fuel pump change solved the problem over winter, its actually just stopped. The problem came back in the fall as the temp and humidity came up.
    The mech I go through could not fault it, never charged me a dime, what a great shop.
    Fuel press was good, rotor and plugs normal wear...
    But I do have a band aid solution that works, and maybe someone out there can explain it..
    If I plug in my block heater, it will start every time without fault.
    That being said and I encourage you to try it, The only sensor that can be affected would be the oil temp sensor. Would it prevent or cut/increase fuel through EEC and cause the problem.
    This cranking issue seems to be a big one.
    Let get it resolved

    Cheers, Habby
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    Hey been there pulling out my hair working on a friends astro van spending my own money triying to fix it> It was the cap and rotor even though it was less then a year old and looked ok. replace it and it well start untill the next humid or moist weather
  • pepperpepsipepperpepsi Member Posts: 1
    I hear to replace the cap and rotor, It was damp and foggy the last couple days here in Michigan we have a 2000 chevy Astro we are going to try that and see if it works The vehicle just stalled out a couple days ago. I will let you know. What was wrong with yours?
  • jkowmrjkowmr Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was wrong
    mine just did the sme thing.
  • habby10habby10 Member Posts: 2
    Im sure it's the water temp sensor again, its the only thing that would affect start. Plugged in it warms up. the tolerance on the lower edge must be bad,...I have to replace it and keep it unplugged.

    Let me know how thing go with you, can you confirm it always starts when the bloc heater is plugged in.

    Cheers. M
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    My 95 GMC Safari (4.3 L Vortec) has had fuel system issues for approx 10,000 miles now and has ~ 215K miles on it. I recently replaced the rotary fuel pump (OEM) with the new Bosch turbine pump and have had great success with it. After filling the vehicle with gas I made it about 3 blocks before the engine cut out. Checked fuel pressure at the rail and found it to be in spec ~ 61psi ignition on. I checked for spark and traced it all the way down to the ind. wire for each plug and have good spark. The most obvious answer is bad fuel at this point, but I took a sample and found water but not very much. Any ideas as to why it wont even kick over? Thanks

    P.S., try the new Bosch turbine pump if your are sick of replacing your fuel pump every 10 K miles, it eliminates the ethanol sensitive pulsator valve and comes with a life time waranty!
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    Did you find the problem...my '95 4.3 just started down the same path and I have been unable to figure out the root cause. Got fuel pressure and spark but no combustion???

    thanks
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    Do mean compression or combustion. where are you getting spark from. you can have spark from a plug wire but is usually the cap and rotor
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    I mean combustion. Spark was tested via timing light on the coil wire, then down on each plug wire and found to be good. Fuel pressure is in the middle of the tolerance range. What has me confused is this:

    Pull a plug, re-connect it to its wire and set the base of the electrode on the head. Cranked engine over and found that spark is strong, blue in color and fires correctly with timing. However, if you crank the engine over with your foot on the throttle (all plugs installed) and then pull a plug it comes out dry with no discoloration or ceramic deposits, why am i not getting Combustion sufficient to fire engine?

    From what I understand of the injection system (CMFI), the individual injectors are supplied fuel by the main injector. Instead of having individual electronically actuated injectors, each jug receives fuel from a hose that supplies during vacuum seen in the head (non-electronic). The only issue I can see now is that although the fuel rail has good pressure, the main injector is not opening and therefore fuel is not being delivered to the ind cylinders. Is the main injector electronically actuated which would be a failure mode here, by not allowing fuel into the combustion chamber via its vacuum actuated ind. injectors? I would think that even bad gasoline (with water in it) should still dampen a plug when you pull it if it does not combust and I am getting dry plugs.

    (CMFI)

    Main Injector
    (electronic/vacuum?)

    No fuel being delivered

    Inj 1 Inj 2 Inj 3 Inj 4 Inj 5 Inj 6
    Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum

    Does this make sense?

    Thanks for the help!
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    Are you talking about the spider injection system? Have you changed your cap and rotor? This has baffled many mechanics.! spark every where out the coil out all the plug wires and plugs but inside the cap and rotor even if the visually look good they can be bad 9 out of 10 times its the problem
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    No, I haven't changed it out yet but I will do that first and let you know. I am talking about the spider injection system, do you have much experience with it? From what I understand, individual piece parts cannot be purchased for replacement, only the entire unit can be replaced...true statement?

    Thanks for the help, I will replace cap and rotor and let everyone know if that solves the problem!
  • schooterschooter Member Posts: 5
    95 Astro runs good most of the time, except when in heavy traffic or climb. If I suddenly stop or even slow down in traffic, upon re-acceleration the van acts as if it is either flooding or starving for fuel. I have found a temporary remedy for it. If I turn engine off and back on it continues as if nothing happened. Please help!!! Its not fun stopping in heavy traffic to re-start a sick automobile.
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    replace the cap and rotor and see what happens. yes the spider injection is all one unit and what a pain to replace if thats the problem. You can put a very good injector cleaner in the gas that helps to knock off the gel thats builds up on them.
    1/4 tank gas and a full bottle of tech ron fuel injector cleaner run it till gas is almost empty
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    Having had this problem with my 95 Safari, I would replace the fuel pump. Chances are you have been putting fuel into the tank that has ethanol in it and that destroys the pulsator valve. I would use the new Bosch turbine pump because it eliminates the need for this valve and it is a much more reliable unit.
  • schooterschooter Member Posts: 5
    Should I check the fuel pressure first to determine whether it is the fuel pump? Will simply checking the fuel pressure give me enough to determine a pump problem? What is the normal fuel pressure threshold? Sorry, about all the questions...I just want to make sure before I tear into it.
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    Yes, you should check fuel pressure before installing a new pump. The tolerance range (ignition on, do not start the engine) should be between 54 and 61 psi and hold after you turn the key off for at least 2 minutes; (50 psi at end of 2 minutes is acceptable). A fast loss in pressure would suggest a bad check ball inside the pump and insufficient pressure would be a bad pump all together. These rotary pumps are famous for going out. If everything checks out, I would suspect a bad fuel pressure regulator or pulsator valve.

    Does this help?
  • grey1956grey1956 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Astro.
    When I am excellerating to 70 mph to get on the express way, I get a loss of power and a flashing check engine light.
    The code is spark plugs missfiring. I have changed the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, air and fuel filter, max air flow sensor. The problem is still there. I even took it to a repair shop and had them run the computer and check it out for 3 days. They gave it back and said they could not find the problem.
    Please help!!!!!
  • jorjajorja Member Posts: 1
    After reading about this problem, I would like to know if it is possible that my 97 Astro Van is in need of a another pump as well. I replaced the fuel pump in this van in Sept 06 and everything has been fine until a few months ago. Then I got a gremlin. This van does silly things, like chuck and burp whenever it fells like it and then races like crazy at the same time. It does not matter if the engine is cold or hot or even what day it is. It acts up when it feels like it. When it is acting like this, I loose the reading on the gas gauge. The needle goes down to empty and then when the van straightens itself out, perhaps after an hour or so (or ten minutes), the gas gauge reads correctly.Replaced already have been plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, and coil. All to no avail. Please help.
  • shortline28shortline28 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 AWD Safari with about 201,000 miles on it, and it has EXACTLY the same problem : It turns over, will not start, and "Everything works, except for the fuel pump, headlights, and the interior lights.......IT WOULD BE VERY HELPFULL IF YOU COULD TELL ME WHAT YOU DID TO FIX!!??
  • waterski1waterski1 Member Posts: 5
    Hello Schooter,

    My 95 GMC Safari is doing the EXACT same thing now for quite awhile and my mechanic can't find out what the problem is. Changed the plugs, wires, rotor, the spider injection unit, etc. Have NOT changed he fuel pump as yet - fuel pressure is up to where it should be.

    what did u find fixed the problem??? thanks for your help!!

    Jerry
  • schooterschooter Member Posts: 5
    I'll have to admit I have dragged my feet on fixing the problem. However after reading some of the forums I really am convinced it is a fuel pump ( ethanol ) issue. From my understanding ethanol is hard on the older and a lot of aftermarket pumps. If this is the problem I would suggest finding out what pumps are "ethanol proof" before making a purchase.

    I'll be sure to post it, whenever I am able to get around to fixing the problem.
    If you beat me to the draw, Please fill me in. Thanks!!!
  • waterski1waterski1 Member Posts: 5
    I'll try to remember to let you know. I'm new to this site. Also, for my vehicle, it seems tohappen right after I fill up with gas at Sheetz. I know I have a hole near the top of the gas tank but not sure y that would make a difference! Also, when the problem starts - if I put the lights on or even blow the horn - it almost shuts the car down. But the whole time the fuel pressure is up and there's plenty of spark.
    Jerry
  • kerijokerijo Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the exact same problem with my van, also a 2003 Astro. Did you ever figure it out?? Does seem to be better when I add fuel injector cleaner, maybe clogged injectors? The problem always comes back and is worse this time around. I'm right around 123K miles now. Any advice is greatly appreciated:)

    Also...I have a "clunk" as I make left turns. Tie rod end? Ball joints were replaced a few years back under a recall. Any ideas on this??
  • waterski1waterski1 Member Posts: 5
    Well, I'm not a mechanic, but here's a few thoughts from my 1995 Safari w. 226k on it and a 02 Astro w. 127k on it. No, I haven't fixed the problem and the other guy i was talking w. didnt either. I've also done the dry gas idea and that helped one time or so i thought. Since its only when i fill it up or close to full, being there's a hole in the top of the tank, it seems that has something to do with it! My mechanic friend is gonna try the fuel pump and see if that helps. I've changed it 100k ago and don't feel like doing it again!!

    As for the clunking, it sure sounds to me like the transfer case. If its a repeated clunking, like a machine gun rate, then its probably the transfer case which is behind the transmission and sends the power to the AWD front and rear. I guess if ur's isnt an AWD, then thats not the problem either!! Also, if its a one time clunk on a turn that may be something else.

    Any thoughts??
    Jerry
  • kerijokerijo Member Posts: 2
    Nope, no machine gun noises. Just a simple clunk or 2 coming from the right front as I make a left turn. I can turn right all I want...guess I'll just drive in circles!! And no, mine isn't AWD. It used to only clunk once in a while, now it's with every left turn.

    Now, let's all pray that there are no fuel pump issues, please! I have no time for that!!!!

    Fingers crossed..
    Keri
  • pwr2020pwr2020 Member Posts: 7
    I am thinking you might have a bad ground. Electronics (like your fuel gauge) can be funny like that when they have bad or inconsistent grounding and the silly things like surging, and sputtering can be a sign of a bad ground circuit as well. Luckily the electrical grounds are tied and you should be able to find the strap in the engine compartment behind the EGR valve.

    Hope this helps
  • schooterschooter Member Posts: 5
    Exactly where is the fuel pressure regulator located ( and the pulsator valve )? Is there any way to check them? I see a few items that may be one or the other, I just don't feel its necessary to tear into something thats not connected to the problem. Thanks for your help!
  • badasscowgirlbadasscowgirl Member Posts: 1
    My van runs good and starts like a new one. But when i go to step on the gas it stalls back like its so hungry it hasnt had gas in three months. I just got it and have already put almost 400 into it just to get it to pass smog. Not looking for a cheap fix want a perm one. Please help. hoping i need to replace fuel filter has new pump. new cap rotor and wires new cat converter, new air intake sensor and new wires. as you can guess mech told me egr needs replacing and quoted me 400 more to fix it. maybe one of you had same problem and was fixed and silly enough easy as pie to do yourself.
  • schooterschooter Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem. Turns out it wasn't a bad fuel pump but rather a fuel pump that was not properly installed. The bracket holding these fuel pumps ( and the rubber insert) are extremely flexible and can be bent into a position that does not allow the proper amount of fuel to flow thus causing the engine to starve for fuel. I found the problem first by checking my fuel pressure. It only had about 52 pounds, which some say is alright. ( I found 60 is more like it, which I now have ) However when the pump built this pressure it immediatly lost all pressure in a few seconds. ( supposed to hold for at least 2 minutes ) This led me to check the fuel pump which after I straightened things up it ran like a top.
  • esantiagoesantiago Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 chevy astro van 4.3 engine all wheel drive i replaced fuel pump and replaced fuel filter and presser regulator. and peplced ingition control module. when car is idled runs good but when put in drive and given gas it stalls out if anyone has a idea of what the problem can be and u please help me out. thanks :confuse:
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