Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

135

Comments

  • pauls_boatpauls_boat Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1989 astro 4.3 which was starting great and running great but recently it has been hard to start it cranks great but will not start if i spray start fluid in air intake it starts great and will run great untill i have to switch off then next time i go to start it is the same any ideas?
    some one said it may be vapor locked? but did not know how to fix it.
    regards paul
  • waterski1waterski1 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry we're still at a loss. Can't figure out anything with my 95. My problem wasnt starting it was with keeping it running as you accelerate. not sure what to tell you.

    Jerry
  • mklein1mklein1 Member Posts: 5
  • mklein1mklein1 Member Posts: 5
    Long story short. Trouble started after a very slight roll over. Wouldn't run in the rain. Progressed to very hard to start. Ran fine if you could get it started. Now won't fire at all. Family's favorite vehicle. Owned since new. 2000 GMC Safari 133,000 miles. New coil, new distributor, new ground wire to coil. New wires and plugs. Fuel pressure 50 psi. Tapping the key when starting used to help start it. Fully charged battery (keeping a charger on it) or jumping seemed to help. New battery didn't make any difference. Any ides? Thanks
  • pauls_boatpauls_boat Member Posts: 2
    hi i traced the problem to the fuel pump relay where it is fitted it gets wet when it rains i fitted a new relay and now no problems also nice and cheep to fix $10 from western auto.

    regards paul
  • waterski1waterski1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks paul,
    I'll ask my mechanic to check that. Its been sitting for about 4 mos.
    Jerry
  • Charlie_UTCharlie_UT Member Posts: 2
    I know exactly what you mean. Needing a fuel pump for my 94 Astrovan I checked with the parts dept at a local Chevrolet dealership. They wanted almost $1000.00 for a new pump. I laughed, hung up and called Autozone, where I bought a new pump (including all necessary gaskets, etc.) for just over $80.00 including the sales tax. In short, if you call around and check the prices at Autozone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys, Napa, etc. you'll likely save some money.

    Charlie
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Charlie, you stated... "called Autozone, where I bought a new pump (including all necessary gaskets, etc.) for just over $80.00 including the sales tax" Did you mean $280.00? I just checked AutoZone's website. They want just over $280.00 for a 97 Astro fuel pump assembly.

    Steve
  • rawtruckerrawtrucker Member Posts: 3
    same problem i got...it's the distributor cap under the bell housing...The slightest dampness will not start....take a hair dryer to it....it will kick right over....the bummer is you got to take the bell housing off
  • chevyman0707chevyman0707 Member Posts: 1
    yeahi have a 94 astro 4.3l i just went to autozone and picked up the pump with the gaskets for $54.00 and a new fuel pump strainer for $10.99 so i have no idea what your talking about steve.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Chevyman, I was just wondering if the guy made a typo is all. Thats great that you guys can buy a $280.00 fuel pump assembly for $54.00 or $80.00. Here's the link to the Autozone page, http://tinyurl.com/85nt3c
    Must be that the 97 model year pump is just more expensive...
  • 1shadetree1shadetree Member Posts: 5
    I've had the same prob w/ my Astro not starting. replaced the coil. took it to shop. Shop told me it was low pressure from fuel pump. They got it running but said it ran very rough. Was advised (strongly) not to use aftermarket pump. found Delphi (OEM) fuel pumps from 200 to 465 bucks. Long story short, I replaced fuel pump and and filter and it isn't the problem. Checked fuses and they're ok. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor last spring. will turn over fine and after about 3-5 seconds it kind of hangs up (bogs, burps, but not cough).

    Any other ideas? thanks.
  • 1shadetree1shadetree Member Posts: 5
    I poured a little gas down the throttle body (I'm no Norman Einstein) and it still didn't even try to start, even though when I opened the butterfly with the pedal I got a cool blueish orange flame. Obviously I have fire! I'm beginning to think it may be a cam or crank position sensor? If it jumped time or broke the timing belt, what would be the symptom? I really don't want to drag it back to the shop, but we need it back running asap.

    Any suggestions? :sick:
    Thanks
  • 1shadetree1shadetree Member Posts: 5
    It's ALIVE!!!! Yes it's running. Even though I had replaced the distributor cap and rotor last spring, they had gone bad. Look for a green powder inside the cap. It's corrosion. Two of the cylinders were not getting fire at all, and instead the cap was "shorting out" sending a spark to 2 cylinders at the same time causing it to cough. Anyway, it's all fixed now AND I have a nice new fuel pump.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    http://tinyurl.com/9cs3x4
    Looks like my link on post #121 changed. Can't edit the link so here's the new one.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Shadetree, just curious if you used an OEM or aftermarket cap and rotor?
  • 1shadetree1shadetree Member Posts: 5
    An aftermarket cap and rotor. A mechanic told me next time go ahead and spend the money on an OEM. They're more expensive but the first one lasted 120k. NAPA warrantied the one that went bad recently, which was great, but what a headache!
  • keicokeico Member Posts: 4
    Ok here is what I have.

    1999 Chevy Astro Van 4.3L

    When I purchased this vehicle 1 year ago it always started up on the first crank. Didn't make a difference whether it was cold or hot.

    I noticed that once this winter started (I live in Florida) and the weather was a little colder. It started to become just a little hard to start.

    It would take two cranks, then three, four.

    Finally i hit it with some car cleaner and it fired up.

    I have been doing this for quite some time. Hit it with some carb cleaner and it fires up.

    Note once it is started it runs great. No hesitation, vibration, nothing it runs great.

    Now I have read that you need at least 65 PSI fuel pressure for this van to start, and no I have not run a fuel pressure test yet. ( I will definitely do this weekend).

    I guess i should also mention that whether the engine is cold or hot i still have to hit it with some carb cleaner.

    I also read that it could be the ECT sensor (coolant temp sensor). It said that if this sensor does not tell the ECM the engine is cold it won't pulse the injectors to start.

    Now as of late I have had to give it more than normal squirt of carb cleaner to get it going.

    Now my question is what do you think it could be.

    Something inside me just can't believe it is the fuel pump. I say this because once it starts it runs great.

    Either way I am not sure what it is.

    Also I need some advice on changing the fuel filter.

    In anticipation of having to do some work I did purchase a fuel filter and a rebuild kit for the fuel pump. (Much cheaper than buying a new fuel pump from Advance auto or Autozone)

    While I started to change the fuel filter I noticed that the fuel lines were bolted into the fuel filter very tight.

    So tight it seems to me that I would break the fuel line before it gave.

    I was wondering if anyone has had this problem also. I really want to change this filter but don't want to damage the fuel line trying to get the old filter out.

    Anyway I hope someone can really help me.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    My 2 cents...
    I have a 97 Astro. My fuel pressure was around 57 or so while the engine was running. It would drop off to zero immediately after turning off the key. According to the book, the fuel pressure should drop off slowly after turning off the ignition. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator. I guess I had a 50/50 shot. That seemed to take care of both the fuel pressure, now 63 PSI, and the pressure dropping off slowly when shutting off the ignition. The pressure dropping immediately doesn't create any issues as far as engine starting or performance. I think more than anything it's an indication that there's an issue with the fuel system. As far as replacing the fuel filter, are you using two wrenches to loosen the nut? You should have one wrench on the fuel filter nut, and one on the line nut. Hold the fuel filter nut in place while loosening the line nut. Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before you do this or be ready for a bit of a high pressure blast of fuel when the nut cracks loose. One more thing, Autozone has a tool rental program that allows you to basically purchase the tool and return it for a full refund within 90 days. I'm "renting' a code reader at the moment. Even if you don't have any codes, if you rent one of the better code readers you will be able to see the results of the output of most of the engine sensors including the O2 sensors. It might be worth a shot. Steve
  • 1shadetree1shadetree Member Posts: 5
    How many miles do you have on it? I'd be curious to know what the results after you check the fuel pressure. If it checks fine, I agree w/ Kieco as far as changing the regulator, much cheaper and it has to be easier.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    I've been chasing this phantom for 4 months now. My Astro will start, run for a few seconds, then die. I finally got a TBI fuel tester, hooked it up to the left line right before the throttle body, and did not get any measurable pressure reading. This could be good news? My next step is to hook it up where the manual says to, which is right before the fuel filter. If I get good pressure there, then I know my tester is working, and that there is a problem between the fuel filter and the throttle body (blocked line?). If the pressure is not good before the filter, then I will know it's time to drop the tank. A few months back I had a dealer install a new OEM pump which I provided. That replacement did not solve the problem. Stay tuned.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Hmmm. I don't know how the fuel pressure regulator is set up in the 93 TBI or if it even has one but... if it does have a fuel pressure regulator (probably does), and it is malfunctioning, you could get the same low or no pressure reading. It might be worth blocking the fuel return line if you get low/no pressure before the filter just to make sure the fuel is not possibly recirculating back into the fuel tank without any resistance from the fuel pressure regulator. Just a thought. It might save you the trouble of dropping the tank. Unless the regulator is actually built into the fuel pump assembly.
  • bda54bda54 Member Posts: 8
    My 96 safari 4.3 vortec won't start when the temps get into the 20's or higher temps and it is humid. It will crank but then hesitate about every 3-4 seconds and then repeat this behavior, but will not start. If I hold down the accelerator, it will not do the hesitation but will backfire sometimes. It's almost like the distributor cap is wet inside and shorting accross to misfire on the wrong cylinder sometimes, when I try to start it. It's 36 degrees today and raining and I tried to start it and the same thing. Any suggestions. I don't want to start blindly replacing parts as I guess at the fix. It has about 135M miles on it.
    Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    I have had alot of these 4.3 problems frustrating I know until I fiquired out the most common problem with this engine. It seems to be always the cap and rotor. no matter if its only 3 months old. I think it has to do with where it position on the engine they get hair line cracks and cause the miss fire affect when trying to start
    Replace cap and rotor.and plugs and wires if they haven't been changed in awhile. Let me know if this solves the problem
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    bda54,
    That sounds like the same issue a lot of us including me are having here. I have already replaced everything in the ignition system, checked the EGR valve, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injectors for leakage but I'm still having this issue so even though it seems like some sort of ignition problem, I have to believe that it is something other than ignition. I rented a code reader from AutoZone for free. The current readings I'm getting are related to certain O2 sensors. I'm debating weather or not to replace them at this point but if I want to drive the van it seems that I don't really have much of a choice.

    The thing about getting information on the O2 sensors is that the vehicle has to run for about 5 minutes or so before you start getting feedback on the sensors. You said that if you hold down the accelerator, then you could keep it running although it backfires. My advice is to rent a code reader before you replace anything. You will probably get what I'm getting, "Multiple misfires in random cylinders" and it should narrow down which O2 sensor(s) is malfunctioning if any. Maybe that's the cause of the symptoms. Please let us know what you find either way. Thanks.
  • dakota4x4dakota4x4 Member Posts: 9
    when did you replace the cap and rotor? the car will start with a bad o2 sensor
    replace the cap and rotor..!! I dont care if it is 1 month old or 5 months old or 1 year old they go bad because of the place they are located on the engine
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    Brand spankin' new OEM. Actually I bought two because the first one was not OEM. I thought maybe the aftermarket cap might be causing a problem but as it turned out, that wasn't the case. All the parts I have replaced have zero miles on them because the piece of crap is undrivable. The engine will start and run, it's just that it idles extremely rough, and if you give it gas it chokes and pukes. If I try putting it in gear and give it a little throttle forget it, it sounds like the engine is going to self destruct.
  • bda54bda54 Member Posts: 8
    I just replace the cap and rotor yesterday afternoon and she runs great. I suspected that that might be the problem, but it seemed too straight forward. I bought the NAPA upgraded cap and rotor made by Ecklin. Thanks for the advice. Also I noted that your user name is dakota4x4. I have a 03 dakota quadcab. I love the truck. I just wish I could get the city driving mileage up a little. I get 18.2 mpg on the road loaded with camping and hunting gear, but I only get 12.5-13.0 mpg around town, even combined with freeway around the cities. Anyways, thanks again for the info regarding my Safari. Have a great day.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks Steve. Your problem description matches mine. My Haynes manual has a pretty good trouble shooting section for the fuel system. The fuel pressure regulator is on the 1993 Z-motor TBI assembly. When I get more time to work on it, I will verify that the left line is the fuel supply line, and the right line is the tank return. Another thing to check, if you have a later model (i.e. Vortec) Astro, is whether your fuel gauge is bad. My wife's 1999 (Vortec intake) Suburban died in traffic the other day with the fuel gauge indicating completely full. After we had it towed home, we figured out that the fuel tank was absolutely empty. Now we rely on the trip meter instead of the gauge. My Astro does not seem to be out of fuel, since it primes every time. It will probably be a few weeks before I get to the bottom of this.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    For those who have been following my posts, I have tinkered with my 1993 Astro for almost 5 months now, could not get it to run. It would start, run rough for about 5 seconds, then die. I replaced the cap, rotor, plugwires, plugs, and fuel filter. Which was okay, they needed it anyway. Then I made the mistake of cutting off the catalytic converter, big mistake. At this point I got the dealer involved, hoping he could help guide me to a solution. He "installed" a new cat for me. His first foray was to replace the fuel pressure regulator. That did not fix it. Then he convinced me to authorize a fuel pump replacement. But that did not fix it. Then he wanted to replace the injectors, I said no. I could not afford his $90/hour rate. I paid him $500 for nothing, had it towed home. I replaced the injector pod, per the dealer's recommendation, still did not fix it. I noticed he simply clamped the new cat up, did not bother to weld it, big air gaps near the O2 sensor! Over time I also replaced the IAC valve, the fuel oil pressure switch, the coil, and the ECM/PCM; all unnecessary. Then it sat through another hard winter here in Ohio. I finally decided to look at the fuel pump work that was done by the dealer today. When I got the fuel sender assembly out of the tank, I noticed that the dealer had shoved the old torn clogged fuel screen onto the new fuel pump. Pretty shoddy work. Then I noticed that the dealer did not use the short section of fuel hose that comes in the kit, but instead used the original hose, which connects the pump to the main fuel line. When I touched it I noticed it was crumbly, most likely the source of the black specks that I found in the first fuel filter I changed. When I pulled it (the crumbly short foam fuel hose) off the dealer installed fuel pump, I noticed it had a big hole in it!! Actually it looked like a slit. I bought a new pump, a new fuel screen, some fuel hoses, and reinstalled the fuel pump assembly correctly, tank, etc...I added some gas, charged the battery, put the dog house back on, installed the computer and trim panels, dejacked the Astro. She started right up, purred like a kitten. Problem solved! So the original problem was a hole in the short section of fuel hose between the fuel pump and the fuel line. I also replaced the fuel relay connector since it was melted, probably from a fuel pump that was working itself to death. I'll have to have a local welder seal the cat forward of the O2 sensor. I may write a letter to the dealer complaining about the shoddy work of the service department, but in this economy, I don't want to get anyone fired. I hope the Astro returns to its trustworthy self.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    NOT!! I drove this beast to town, it died after about 50 miles! When the tow truck operator picked it up the next day, it started right up. When he dropped it at our house he demonstrated that it would start right up. I changed the fuel filter again this morning, thinking the fuel tank work had stirred up a lot of dirt. The van started and ran fine for a few minutes, then died. Now it won't start. The tow truck guy thought the crank sensor could be losing it, giving good signal when cold, and then going bad when hot. I suppose I could blindly replace another perfectly good part? I can't believe this van.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    We all feel your pain brother. These vans are fricken unbelievable. I'm tired of throwing good money after bad on mine, not to mention the time involved. If I hadn't lost my job back in January, I think I'd finally give up on mine. About the only thing I haven't replaced are the O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Oh ya, and the fuel injector unit, although I tried one of the new style multiport fuel injector "upgrades" but there's no way it fits. The hoses kink when you try to fit them into the intake manifold. Anyway, I guess we all just keep plugging away. Maybe Obama will provide us all with new Astros! Uhhh...yaaaa....
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    Well,
    I went another round with the Astro today, and lost. I could not get it to start, no spark. I re-investigated a relay next to the fuel relay that looked like it might have cooked in the past, replaced it with a new one I had sitting around, and the damn van started. While it was running I wiggled the wire harness to this unnamed relay, it might be for the ac/heater blower, and the van stumbled a little. Then I closed the passenger door and it died. It would not start after that. It's too cold to work on it any more today, but I suspect the computer is not properly grounded? It is right there next to the passenger door hinge. I checked the resistance(s) of the coil, all 3 tests were nominal. I suppose I'll need to pull the computer out and see if there is some ground strap that I did not reinstall the last time I pulled it out. This van does not want to serve. The good news is that I think I have fixed all the fuel issues I was having. Now I just need to find this electrical bug.
  • blackpacific1blackpacific1 Member Posts: 27
    I finally vanquished the Astro's problems. After fixing the fuel issues, which you can see from my previous posts, I went after the sudden loss of spark. I took the ignition module to the auto parts store, had it tested. It failed. I replaced it yesterday, and the van is running just fine.

    In summary, I had the following failures in order of appearance. The first thing that happened in September (5 months ago) was I jump started the van, and melted the 4 prong connector behind the battery. I fixed it, then went on a long road trip. When I got back the van died. Basically no fuel pressure. I replaced the fuel filter, which was jammed with black flecks, and but that was not the problem. I had the dealer replace the fuel pump, but he did it incorrectly. I discovered later that the short (2" long) section of hose between the pump and the steel line had a hole in it. The dealer had reused the original hose on the new pump, and thus the new pump delivered fuel right back into the tank! It was also the source of the black flecks which jammed my fuel filter. I found that the electrical connector to the fuel relay was badly melted, and replaced it. It may have overheated from a fuel pump that was overworked. The last problem was an intermittent ignition control module which finally failed hard. None of these problems were detected by the computer, which is probably why so many shade tree mechanics like myself have such difficulty finding them. I do hope the Astro will ride for many more miles.
  • keicokeico Member Posts: 4
    Ok so after many months of using carb cleaner to start the car, It finally gave out in the McDonalds Drive Thru.

    It just stalled and wouldn't start.

    After towing it home, I couldn't hear the fuel pump engage at all.

    So I dropped the tank, and rebuilt the pump. Low and behold she fired right up

    As far as the the fuel filter, I cut the lines and used a fuel line repair kit, so i could install the the new filter.

    I will say this much. This was no easy job. The bolts that the secure the fuel tank straps were rusted and would not bulge. Two of them would not budge. So I had to cut the straps.

    Anyway I ordered new straps and am in the process now of cutting into the floor to install some new bolts.

    Removing the fuel lines that run from the tank (Which are suppose to be quick connect) was very time consuming. There was a lot of rust buildup.

    I am just happy there were no fuel leaks.

    Anyway by tomorrow i will finally be finished and back on the road
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I haven't been following this thread, but sometimes you can get a balky fuel pump working temporarily by banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet or chunk of wood. It helps to know the "right spot" to bang on.

    But that trick saved my neighbor a tow with his Aerostar last summer.

    Steve, visiting host
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and now the engine seems to run better, but still not good. Now instead of all the misfiring, choking, and puking, it just seems to be a bit underpowered. Before replacing the crank angle sensor, if I would give the engine a little throttle, it would sound like it was about to self destruct. Now it runs much better but it has a stumble and/or hesitation and runs smooth at a constant RPM. I believe the crank angle sensor was definitely part of the overall problem. I just ordered 6 new separate injectors and am going to rebuild the injector unit myself. About $150 for a set of brand new, not rebuilt, injectors. I'll let you know how it goes...
  • needhelpinpaneedhelpinpa Member Posts: 9
    Dear shortline,
    Did you find the answer to why your astro dous not have lights or fuel pump? Please reply, thanks.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    A quick update...
    The injectors made a huge difference. I'm definitely headed in the right direction. The issue I'm having now is that the catalytic converter and at least two O2 sensors are bad. The engine is running rich due to the inaccurate information being sent from the bad O2 sensors. You can actually hear the fuel-rich exhaust combust in the catalytic converter. It sounds like a loud one time knock (not engine ping) intermittently. I have a new catalytic converter and four new O2 sensors on order from AutoZone, a little over $300 total. I'm praying that this will be the final piece of the puzzle. I'll have another update after I get the new parts installed.
  • mochajavamochajava Member Posts: 2
    I have a 03 GMC Safari. When I try to start it it acts as though it is flooded and won't start? There is fuel and the pump is working. Help
  • mochajavamochajava Member Posts: 2
  • lawaia11lawaia11 Member Posts: 1
    Im having trouble removing fuel lines for GMC Safari pass. Van Yr.2000 do i need a certin tool or equipment.
  • ddreierddreier Member Posts: 4
    Here is my story.
    About 2 years ago my 2000 Safari started having all the problems described in the previous post here. Error code p300 random misfires.
    Engine would act up when it was wet out rain and snow.
    After a complete tuneup wires,cap,rotor,sparks fuel filter and a complete check of the fuel system and injectors it left my mechanic scratching his head.
    Now for the clincher at the same time the engine problems started my turn signal switch started to act flakey the left momentary turn signal stopped working and when it was wet and cold the turn signal would work on and off depending on the weather conditions.
    In my mind it was time to trade my van in and be done with it.
    But I love this van and did not want to part with it.
    So I started thinking could it be the turn signal switch causing a short to cars circuitry when it is wet out causing the misfires.
    Would my mechanic think I was a total moron if I told him my theory.
    Well I bought a new switch assembly cheap and had my mechanic put it in not telling him about my theory or telling him I was still having engine misfire problems.
    Well it has been a year now without any engine problems in any kind of weather.
    Runs like a champ.

    Who would of thought!
  • sinderamysinderamy Member Posts: 1
    My 1993 GMC Safari has been sitting in the driveway unused for about a week. Before this it ran just fine. When I tried to start it the alarm went off and the engine wouldn't start. The batteries for the remote door lock switch had run out, so I replaced them thinking I could disarm the alarm. No such luck. Tried to start it again, alarm went off. Now nothing works - no lights, power door switches won't work, the alarm light has gone off, etc. Thought it might be the battery (which is new, by the way.) Tried to jump it to no avail. Is it possible that the security system somehow disabled something preventing the engine from starting? If so, what do I do to bypass it? I bought this vehicle used about a month ago, so there's no user's manual. I love my truck (van) and want to drive it. Can anyone help?
  • keicokeico Member Posts: 4
    Ok here we go again

    9 months after I rebuild the fuel pump, it just died.

    Was parked in front of real estate office paying rent, and that was all she wrote.

    She cut off and I knew it was the fuel pump

    Had it towed to the house. Could not here the pump when you turn key on.

    I verified the pump was getting voltage.

    Why oh why so many problems I hear about these van with bad fuel pumps

    Well anyway ordered the entire assembly. later will order another one for backup.

    Lets see what happens
  • wkmyastrooffwkmyastrooff Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I hope someone will benefit from my misfortunes with my 1999 Astro. I think they call them Astro's because you have to work your Astro off to keep them running. Anyway, I've read quite a few posts regarding no start issues and the two problems that I encountered were low fuel pressure on start and a wire bundle getting wet behind the battery. If you have one of these vans and when ever it rains it refuses to start, go and get your trusty leaf blower. Start from the relay box wire bundle above the battery and blow air into the covering around all the wires. Work your way down making sure you get a good blast of air in and around all the bundles. Try starting. Obviously if the van cranks up you're going to have to better seal this area for rain intrusion.

    Regarding fuel pressure I did have another no start issue when it got cold. I live in Florida and when it gets below 60 we consider it somewhat nippy. And so did the van. It would crank and crank just like my previous rain problem but it turned out the fuel pressure dropped to 45 and it just wasn't enough for it to start. Replaced the fuel pump and I was back in business. By the way I decided to cut a hole in the floor using a drill and tin snips so if I ever have to replace another pump it'll be a snap. I did read somewhere that fuel pressure has everything to do with these vans and I believe it. What was interesting was that when I initially tested the fuel pressure the manual says it should go between 55 and 61 psi. It did that at first, but dropped when I started cranking. Basically I was getting intermittant starts by cranking (less than 5 sec), coming off the starter for a split second and then cranking again. By the way, if your van doesn't start all the time due to fuel pressure I'd recommend starting with the fuel filter. After you change it see if you can blow air through it. That will tell you for sure if it was restricting your flow.

    So you're all aware I did approach both no starts as an ignition problem. I did all the basics. Cap, roter, wires, plugs, coil and I ohmed out everything I could get a spec and my meter on. Of course I never got any codes to help me out. By the way I did replace the crank angle sensor also. I don't think now that it was necessary but I couldn't get any ohms and on the new one it read 4 so I thought it was bad. $65 down the toilet.

    Lastly, on these vans if anyone encounters a weird pulsing electical problem where the battery light comes on intermittantly, change your alternator. After 1996 they upgraded the circuitry and after I changed mine that problem went bye bye.

    Currently I'm at 270,000 miles and I'd like to see if I can get it over at least a 1/2 million.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Member Posts: 42
    So as it turns out, one of the six injectors that I replaced was defective. This obviously caused the engine to continue to run crappy. I had to take it to the dealer to diagnose the problem. The mechanic told me that according to his tests, the #1 cylinder injector was not not operating properly. The fuel pressure drop when the injector was activated was much less compared to the other injectors. He also noticed that the #1 cylinder compression test intermittently showed a low reading. Probably a stickey valve. Anyway, I finally got around to replacing the #1 injector (for the second time) and sure enough the engine runs great. The check engine light turned off on its own after a few days of driving. The van sat for a week or two while I was in the process of ordering and replacing two idler arms and a lower ball joint. Haven't been feeling real motivated to work on the beast. So I finally finish the front end work and I fire up the van for a test drive. The check engine light comes on a few minutes into the ride. Checked out the code and it looks like its the #1 cylinder again. Not going to worry about it as long as the engine is running good. My guess is that the sticky valve is causing a misfire that the computer can detect but that is not noticable at all to me. The front end is much better but still not completely right so for now I'll just live with the check engine light staying on. I'll probably take it in to have the front end looked at. At this point I can't afford a new (used) vehicle and this one is paid for, so I guess its still cheaper to fix than it would be to trade-in.
  • bwgmcvanbwgmcvan Member Posts: 10
    wrong thread post # 156- not 158
  • bwgmcvanbwgmcvan Member Posts: 10
    have you checked the wires/cap/plugs - I had to replace mine and that fixed that problem
  • bwgmcvanbwgmcvan Member Posts: 10
    1996 Safari van ,OK- Sounds exactly like my problem- van started to sputter and misfire 1 month ago - it was a heavy slushy snow day- started acting up as I said and died - luckily it was 50' from my mechanics place- what luck -thank god it happened there, anyways - my wheel well on the drivers side was missing the center plastic guard and was slightly bent back on the front piece- well I fixed the wheel well problem and everything was fine- even during snow- well- it isn't fine , started the same thing today on the way home from my GF's house (parked outside) and it was snowing all night. Got in the van got about 4 miles from my house started with the sputtering and misfiring and then died, so I opened the hood and saw that there was water around the computer module (not sure thats what it is) so I waited about 10 Minuit's- tried to start it - no go, opened the hood again banged the comp module , got in the van and it started write up- started to drive home - started again about a mile away(still snowing) pulled in a parking lot- waited 5 Minuit's and continued on my way and I was able to get home and did not sputter at all from the the parking lot to my house- sounds exactly like the problem you had- what can I do to correct this- it's making me a nervous wreck every time it starts to snow , I need my van for my business (work)- I know there is a seal that goes around the rear of the hood- since it is 14 yrs old - could this be dry out with no elasticity that is causing this to happen- what did you do to correct this problem- could really use some sound advise. :sick:
    thank you so much
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles