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Comments
Is there a fuse that would control this?
Does the coil and control module have to be mounted for a good ground to work?
I check for a spark by unplugging the spark plug wire from the distrubitor and holding near the manifold and cranking the engine.
Where else should I check?
Blown fuse in the engine capartment
ALL GOOD NOW!
Sometimes it takes 4-6 attempts to get it started, other time just one. It seems the longer it sits the harder it is to start.
Fuel filter was replaced and no difference. Should I just get a new pump or could it be another problem?
Thanks
Tom
Thank you in advance!
I took it to autozone where a friend works and he suggested I pull the trans pan and changed the filter, so I did but that didn't help. I really don't think it's the trans itself.
Any suggestions?
The mech I go through could not fault it, never charged me a dime, what a great shop.
Fuel press was good, rotor and plugs normal wear...
But I do have a band aid solution that works, and maybe someone out there can explain it..
If I plug in my block heater, it will start every time without fault.
That being said and I encourage you to try it, The only sensor that can be affected would be the oil temp sensor. Would it prevent or cut/increase fuel through EEC and cause the problem.
This cranking issue seems to be a big one.
Let get it resolved
Cheers, Habby
mine just did the sme thing.
Let me know how thing go with you, can you confirm it always starts when the bloc heater is plugged in.
Cheers. M
P.S., try the new Bosch turbine pump if your are sick of replacing your fuel pump every 10 K miles, it eliminates the ethanol sensitive pulsator valve and comes with a life time waranty!
thanks
Pull a plug, re-connect it to its wire and set the base of the electrode on the head. Cranked engine over and found that spark is strong, blue in color and fires correctly with timing. However, if you crank the engine over with your foot on the throttle (all plugs installed) and then pull a plug it comes out dry with no discoloration or ceramic deposits, why am i not getting Combustion sufficient to fire engine?
From what I understand of the injection system (CMFI), the individual injectors are supplied fuel by the main injector. Instead of having individual electronically actuated injectors, each jug receives fuel from a hose that supplies during vacuum seen in the head (non-electronic). The only issue I can see now is that although the fuel rail has good pressure, the main injector is not opening and therefore fuel is not being delivered to the ind cylinders. Is the main injector electronically actuated which would be a failure mode here, by not allowing fuel into the combustion chamber via its vacuum actuated ind. injectors? I would think that even bad gasoline (with water in it) should still dampen a plug when you pull it if it does not combust and I am getting dry plugs.
(CMFI)
Main Injector
(electronic/vacuum?)
No fuel being delivered
Inj 1 Inj 2 Inj 3 Inj 4 Inj 5 Inj 6
Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum Vacuum
Does this make sense?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help, I will replace cap and rotor and let everyone know if that solves the problem!
1/4 tank gas and a full bottle of tech ron fuel injector cleaner run it till gas is almost empty
Does this help?
When I am excellerating to 70 mph to get on the express way, I get a loss of power and a flashing check engine light.
The code is spark plugs missfiring. I have changed the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, air and fuel filter, max air flow sensor. The problem is still there. I even took it to a repair shop and had them run the computer and check it out for 3 days. They gave it back and said they could not find the problem.
Please help!!!!!
My 95 GMC Safari is doing the EXACT same thing now for quite awhile and my mechanic can't find out what the problem is. Changed the plugs, wires, rotor, the spider injection unit, etc. Have NOT changed he fuel pump as yet - fuel pressure is up to where it should be.
what did u find fixed the problem??? thanks for your help!!
Jerry
I'll be sure to post it, whenever I am able to get around to fixing the problem.
If you beat me to the draw, Please fill me in. Thanks!!!
Jerry
Also...I have a "clunk" as I make left turns. Tie rod end? Ball joints were replaced a few years back under a recall. Any ideas on this??
As for the clunking, it sure sounds to me like the transfer case. If its a repeated clunking, like a machine gun rate, then its probably the transfer case which is behind the transmission and sends the power to the AWD front and rear. I guess if ur's isnt an AWD, then thats not the problem either!! Also, if its a one time clunk on a turn that may be something else.
Any thoughts??
Jerry
Now, let's all pray that there are no fuel pump issues, please! I have no time for that!!!!
Fingers crossed..
Keri
Hope this helps