Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

fxter · July 2006

Great Report... thanks for sharing it with us.

Just wondering:
Is it a MT/Auto?
How was the fuel efficiency your car?

Thanks,

gouldn · July 2006

It's an automtaic ... I've been getting a consistent 24 mpg ... considerbly lower for the several thousand miles, then it improved to 24 .. the best I've ever gotten is 27-28 on long trips at a constant 65 mph ... but 24 mpg is consistent for my 70/30 fwy/local use of this car.

ateixeira · July 2006

I got a lot of crap about the "cheap" interior of my '98, but 9 years later it's still in great shape, no wrinkles, cuts, or a lot of wear. They don't look 9 years old, for sure.

And I've had kids and dogs crawling all over the interior the whole time.

-juice

leo2633 · July 2006

My '01 Forester S velour-like interior has worn very well after 5+ years and nearly 140 K miles. The only thing that hasn't is the fabric on the upper part of the driver's door, which is where I rest my left arm most of the time. That area is getting a bit thin. But everything else has held up remarkably well.

Len

ateixeira · July 2006

Ed (lark6) complained about the same thing. The S model had that nicer material, but I guess it proved to be a bit less durable.

-juice

applejf · July 2006

Been researching Foresters, this forum particularly. Local dealer has two (new) 2006 manual xmsn cars (I do want a five speed), one XT and one X with premium pkg. at really good prices. Two questions:

- Premium gas required for the XT. IF the gas prices really get awful (as if they aren't already), the question is in regard to putting regular into this engine. I have heard that late model cars that specify premium gas will take regular with no damage to the engine and no knocking, just a loss of performance. Any comments re: the Forester turbo engine?

- Short shift kit. Subaru offers SOMETHING; the salesman tells me if I get it (dealer installed) I will experience a better feel especially in regard to feeling less 'rubbery'. In other words, not just less throw, but a more mechanical feel. In reading some of the forums, I get the impression that the dealer installed shift kit may only affect throw, and that to improve feel one must get an aftermarket kit. Any comments?

thanks in advance

fxter · July 2006

Been researching Foresters, this forum particularly. Local dealer has two (new) 2006 manual xmsn cars (I do want a five speed), one XT and one X with premium pkg. at really good prices.

Could you please share with the forum, what is the price range? [If you don't mind

].

I am looking to buy one Forester X or X-Premium... Just wanted to know what kind of prices are there in your part of the country.

Thanks,
-fxter

applejf · July 2006

fxter:
Could you please share with the forum, what is the price range? [If you don't mind ].

A little below invoice.....which surprised me, but I have heard of good deals on Foresters before.

fxter · July 2006

great! good luck to you.

mckeown · July 2006

There are forums where only Forester XT's are discussed. Regarding premium gas, they state regular can be used but not on a daily basis. Yes there is a knock sensor but the maps (programming) in the ECU were designed for a minimum of 91 octane. So from those other references and Subaru's, I would not suggest getting an XT if you plan to run regular on a daily basis.
Also the Subaru short shifter does give a much better feel than the factory setup, but it is expensive. It does provide a shorter throw and tighter feel. Kartboy makes a nice short shifter for the Forester and also has good solid feeling urethane bushings bushings to go along with it. Just my opinion.

kavoom · July 2006

One thing I have noticed about premium gas. It has always been about 20 cents more than regular a gallon including with all the increases in price. As a percentage of the total when gas is a buck fify or so 20 cents is a chunk, but the more expensive all gas gets that percentage gets less and less... Hey whats another couple bucks when its costing 40 bucks to fill up anyway...

Just an observation... AND More octane DOES make a difference when towing with a plain 04 manual Forester in the mountains...

applejf · July 2006

OK we drove the manual X with Premium this morning, both myself and wife. At this point, the Forester has no negatives that would eliminate it from consideration. We are both 65, and this will be at least one of our last car purchases, if not the last. We keep cars a long time. So we are still going to look at a couple of other cars, and keep the Forester on standby for now (probably not that very car, it being an 06 it will go fast at the reduced price). The only thing I saw that I thought MIGHT be a positive for waiting for an 07 is the bulge for a water bottle in the door pocket. Wife always carries a water bottle - she didn't like the bulge! Also, on a second drive for me of this car, the feel of the shifter seems just fine. Not like a BMW, but absolutely acceptable.

The Forester is a really nice SUV.

10years · July 2006

On a recent fishing trip way up in northern Californias Trinity County, I had reason to take the 03 X Auto Forester onto some pretty rough terrain. Yes the Forester is considered a soft-roader and Im the first to get out and walk instead of proceeding, if conditions warrant. Having said that the little wagon that couldnt; did.

Various access trail-roads were all combinations of being at-grade, deeply rutted, water cut horizontally, strewn with basketball size stones and various branches and limbs. The short 99-inch wheelbase in combination of walking one wheel at time over the worst obstacles saved the day. Probably longer wheelbase or lower ground clearance vehicles may not have been successful. Once I decided not to proceed over Jeep type obstacles but to carefully backup, one wheel at a time, back over obstacles. The AWD worked seamlessly, just as a wheel would begin to slip you could hardly detect the shift to the other wheels and proceed okay.

Heck these little off-road adventures were fun and definitely kept your attention. I have a couple of new minor scratches to deal with. Any suggestions?

Have fun all.

growler5 · July 2006

the feel of the shifter seems just fine. Not like a BMW, but absolutely acceptable

Funny you should say that - the shifter in my '05 FX premium is better than the one in my old Beemer convertible. (I think the Beemer shift linkage is a bit out of whack.) You'll find that the moonroof in the FX does a great job of mimicing the open feeling of a convertible.

You seem to be in the same situation I was in two years ago when I traded a 10-year old Beemer in on a FX. At that time I was looking for something for the long haul that would be comfortable, reliable, and cheaper to maintain. The FX fits the bill on all counts. And if you're really intent on keeping your next car for a long time, me mum will testify that the FX is an easy vehicle for a 79-year old to enter / exit.

PF_Flyer · July 2006

It's the humidity... and I'm still catching up/recovering from staying up until 5 AM by mistake/necessity the other night

If you're curious about that, I can tell you about it at the chat! Let's just say that after some undertermined age, the body doesn't respond as well to an all-nighter as it used to!

tidester · July 2006

Bob,

We had NO idea you were THAT old!

tidester, host

PF_Flyer · July 2006

As a famous watermelon smashing comic once said, you reach an age where your brain tells you that it's not good idea to get your butt over your head :surprise:

I never read warning labels! LOL

juliegreg99 · July 2006

Hi, thank goodness I found this site! My husband purchased a Subaru Forester for me about 3 years ago, because I absolutely love the look of the Forester...it's regularly maintained and serviced...we've never had any major problems with the vehicle, except today...it started to choke and slow down? Luckily we made it home, but now it won't even start...I know it's not the battery, because the alarm, radio and all the electrics still work...the car tries to start when we turn it on, but it just wont, start.

Anyway, I think it may be the alternator, I don't know if it really is the alternator, but I have a feeling it could be. We'll be towing it to the mechanics on Monday...a sad sight for sure...can anyone relate to my problem and can it be something else??

JT :sick:

grahampeters · July 2006

G'day

If the power items seem to come up okay, as evidenced by lights, clock, radio etc. then next most likely is some fuel feed problem. Possibly you got some dirty fuel that has clogged the inline filter which is located in the fuel tank.

Getting it to a garage sounds the right idea

Cheers

Graham

juliegreg99 · July 2006

Much thanks for your comments, I love my Forester, it's a gem...can you believe it, I couldn't sleep because my baby was sick, lol!! Thanks again.

ateixeira · July 2006

Must be a '98? There was no '97 model.

Any how, if it choked gradually, the bad fuel explanation is one I'd agree with. If leaded fuel was used, it might have clogged up the catalytic converter, and that would certainly choke the engine.

Other things it could be? Fouled spark plugs, or spark plug wires, or a bad fuel pump. But let a mechanic have a look, hopefully the ECU stored some codes even if you did not get a check-engine light.

-juice

kate5000 · July 2006

I was searching the boards but did not find a place where car audiophiles gather... I'm thinking of getting a good aftermarket stereo for my new baby forester 2006, but don't know where to start... looked at crutchfield.com but they don't seem to have units integrated with 6 disc "in-dash" cd changer...

I'm sure there is a topic somewhere on edmunds where people discuss car audio in length...

tidester · July 2006

Hi, Kate!

We're reorganizing the Forums according to make and model and, since you're the first to ask here, you get to post the first message in the all new Subaru Forester: Audio & Entertainment Systems section!

tidester, host

applejf · August 2006

A previous poster suggested that I do a search on the Hill Holder subject in past forum posts. I did that, and found many posts and a good bit of confusion, a little disgust, and lots of opinions, many favorable. Many said that the Hill Holder should not be active in reverse; I am finding that it is. These are the results of testing in my driveway, which has a gentle slope down to the street. In all previous cars we've had in the 15 years we've used our garage, I have gotten into the habit of getting the car rolling backwards out of the flat-floor garage, then pushing in the clutch and coasting the rest of the way down the slope to the street, with the car still in reverse, because I then have to back up with engine power to get up to the crest of the street before taking off.

Tests

Engine off, car in gear, handbrake on, everything the way I left it last time I was in it.
-Push in clutch, release handbrake, but leave engine off: car stays put (brakes still on)
-Put car in neutral: car still stays put
-Let clutch out: brakes release, car starts rolling backward

Same initial conditions as above, then
-Push in clutch, start engine, put car in reverse, start backing up using engine power
-Resistance is noticed (yes I hear this thing is adjustable somewhat) to the extent that if
I push the clutch back in, the car quickly comes to rest
-This is repeatable all the way down the slope, whenever I push in the clutch, the car stops rolling backward.
-I.E. unless I have the car in neutral when I let the clutch out, it will be braked to a stop.

Conclusion: unless I change my habits, it would appear that I am wearing out disk pads every time I back down the driveway, have to power against the brakes all the way. Not a big problem, I'll just start popping it out of gear and letting out the clutch, using my foot on the brake to control speed. However.......I would not have designed the Hill Holder to be operative in reverse. And if I had my druthers, I would have it disabled completely. That opinion could change over time - I am very early in my ownership.

once_for_all · August 2006

let me see if I can add (not to the confusion, hopefully).

HH will only engage 1) if there is an incline, nose pointed up; and 2) the brake pedal gets depressed while the nose is pointed up.

HH will stay engaged only if brake is pressed and released on incline.

HH will disengage only when clutch is released and car goes forward, and of course only if it has been engaged in the first place.

Keep in mind that HH needs an incline for the ball check valve to seal in the master cylinder. It also needs some back pressure to keep it there. Releasing the clutch also releases the back pressure, when car goes forward.

Unfortunately, backing up in reverse, nose pointing up an incline, is the one problem with HH. I solve it by not engaging HH in the first place when I know I will need to reverse out (ie don't use the foot brake on the incline. You can use the parking brake anytime and HH will not engage.)

John

applejf · August 2006

Thanks John, that is clearing it up for me. Conclusion still the same: I'll have to adapt to it to get out of my driveway without causing some kinda scene (Headline: Smoke pours from SUV driver's ears........but he suffers no ill effects).

Seriously, I do think I'll have the dealer adjust it to be weaker, but I will wait another week or two before doing that. I just might wind up absolutely falling in love with the HH, like I have everything else about the Forester.

Fred

samiam_68 · August 2006

When the HH is properly adjusted - it's a great feature. I've had the same grabbiness on my FXT when I first bought the car - pain in the neck to park on even the slightest incline. Dealer took all of five minutes to adjust it, and it's been great ever since.

applejf · August 2006

Just in from a visit to the dealer. I decided to talk to the service dept. and see what they think about adjustability of the HH. Their main Subaru expert took me to the car to talk about it and show me the HH valving. He peeped in (it's quite visible under the hood) and said Hmmm. Turns out at least our 2006 model has been changed since he last worked on one, he said it was different. I'll drive it a while before doing anything.

thanks,

Fred

erikwi · August 2006

OK, now that I've had my 06 Forester for a few months, mom's decided she wants one. She's retired so I don't think she'll be able to go new. Are there any issues with a 2004 that she may need to be aware of? She's impressed beyond belief with mine and wants one herself. Thanks!!

kate5000 · August 2006

Foresters do not depreciate that much, and there are not that many on the market. I'd suggest to check with local dealer who might be able to extend that $2K off deal that ended on 07/31. In that case, she'll get a brand new Forester 2006 for the price of used Forester 2004!

erikwi · August 2006

I've noticed that the price difference isn't much between new and used but I figured used would have more room for negotiation. SOA is still running 2k off and 0% financing on the 06's until 9/5 I think. Just have to go talk to the dealer and see. I'd rather she buy new. Bad bad BAD experience with the Pontiac bought used. A little bit of everything has gone wrong with it and it has less than 47k on the odo. She's impressed with the fact I've had mine 3 months and haven't needed a trip to the dealer for anything.

06's are getting hard to find though from what I've seen searching the web. It's like when someone buys one, they keep it until it comes apart!

10years · August 2006

Congrats on the new Forester. I have an 03 X with 52K on it now. It has taken me through a number of tight spots in bad weather and does okay off-raod if you keep it's limitations in mind. MPG is decent too. My long term average is about 26.5, 75% highway.

HH, why not just back-up into the driveway?

Have Fun.

outdoorgrl · August 2006

Hi,

I have a 2003 Forester, manual transmission, with 72,000+ miles. I am the original owner of the car. Recently, I have noticed an intermittent vibration that only happens at highway speeds. (60 - 70 MPH).

Here's a synopsis of whats been happening:

I drive the car through city streets to the highway (about 1 mile). I get on the highway and drive for another 2-5 miles. I notice a low vibration that starts out faint and increases to a loud and deep vibration. This happens for about ½ - 1 mile. Noise and vibration seems to come from the whole length of the car, down low. If I increase in speed, the noise and vibration gets a bit louder. If I decrease speed, it decreases but does not completely stop until 10  20 mph. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel, front car seats, pedal, etc. If you are in the passenger seat, you can feel and hear it too.

If I pull over and let the car idle for a minute or two or drive slower through city streets the noise and vibration do not return.

One time I was driving on the highway and couldn't pull over. The noise and vibration continued for a couple of miles -- gradually got louder then gradually decreased and went away. If I shift to neutral at freeway speed, the noise and vibration still continues. It is directly linked to road speed, not rpms.

At first, this just happened occasionally. It usually happened around the same spot on the highway. (2 -3 miles on the road at highway speed, then would continue for another couple of miles, then stop) And it only happened once during the day from a cold start. Now it happens every time I drive on the freeway, after the car has sat idle for more than an hour. However, only if I drive a short distance on city roads, and then get on the freeway. If I drive on city roads for awhile, run errands and stop the car, then restart and get back on the highway, it doesnt happen.

I took it into the dealership. They thought it was the heat shield (as there was another noise that was a rattle). The dealership kept the car for a couple of days and test drove it, but they couldnt replicate the vibration. They did adjust the heat shield, as it was loose. I have had the car home for a week and have driven on the highway & had no problems. But the last three days, the vibration has been happening every time I drive a short distance on city streets and then get right on the highway. If I pull over and stop, wait a couple of minutes then go again, the noise doesnt continue.

Any ideas? Has anyone else ever had this happen to their car?

tazereli · August 2006

Out of balance tires can cause a vibration at hiwhay speeds

Regards,
Kyle

samiam_68 · August 2006

Try the following:
1 - check tire balance
2 - check tire pressure (low pressure can cause flat spotting)
3 - check wheel alignement
4 - check tires for bubbles or other damage
5 - rotate the tires front to back
6 - loosen, then retorque all wheel lug nuts using a precision torque wrench

If the tires / wheels are not the culprit, could be the front or rear differential, or even an unbalanced driveshaft.

Hopefully it's something simple.

ateixeira · August 2006

04s are great, in fact 03 and later is a good bet.

02 and earlier had some wheel bearing issues, and 01 and earlier we saw some head gasket failures.

03 was also the 2nd generation, so it got a tad more content. About 8-10 items were added as standard, and only 1-2 items were taken away.

03-05 is generally a good bet used.

-juice

slipjig · August 2006

I just bought a new '06 Forester! I am so excited to take it camping. This involves driving old loging roads - some of which aren't maintained. (I used to do this with my old Volvo 240 wagon - till I had to replace a muffler once and decided to camp in more refined areas.)

What experiences have people had with the front bumber underguard, the differental guard, and the aftermarket skidplate that covers the oil pan? Are these wise to install? Or are they generally not needed on the Forester?

Thanks much -

Slipjig

ateixeira · August 2006

I have the rear one, the OE differential protector. It's very sturdy, in fact I use it as a jacking point and it easily lifts up the entire back of the vehicle.

I absolutely recommend it, sure.

-juice

dstew1 · August 2006

Juice - I've been tempted to use my OE diff guard as a rear jacking point, but been hesitant to do so. Thanks for letting me know it works.

Of course this means if I break my car, I'm blaming you. :P

Doug

dstew1 · August 2006

For any off-road usage where clearance might be an issue, I'd recommend the rear diff protector as well as a good aftermarket skid plate. I've got a Primitive skid plate that was easy to install, a good fit, and the 3/16" thick aluminum feels VERY solid.

Know also that the OEM diff guard is not your only option - even though it's the one I own. I think Primitive makes one, as well as Rally Armor. "Offroadsubarus" has a forum that is a good source of info on different parts and suppliers.

Doug

ateixeira · August 2006

I installed it myself, that things takes 4 beefy 17mm bolts. Ain't no way that's going anywhere.

In fact the only trade-off is a bit of extra weight!

-juice

PF_Flyer · August 2006

Some people (like all the drivers in my house) INSIST on buying cars with 5 speeds! :P

applejf · August 2006

The new '06 X (with 5 speed) keeps getting better every day.

1) MPG on first tank. Admittedly I am a conservative driver, but was pleasantly surprised by the first tank's MPG, with about 80% in-town driving, the rest at 65 or so. It came out 25.5 MPG. Tomorrow we take the car on a 200 mile round trip on the superslab, I'll get that number when we fill up upon return.

2) I purchased the Subaru bra/cover for the front end. This is the third car I've gotten a bra for, and this one is the slickest design of all. No holes to be drilled (as I had to do on our Volvo) for snaps: the cover comes with clips built in that match the nooks and cracks of the front end perfectly. Anyone considering a bra for their Forester, I advise investing in the one from Subaru. It is a quality design/product and worth the money. (I think it was $140)

ateixeira · August 2006

Forester made the top 3 once again! RAV4 came in first, but the Forester took 2nd place.

To me this is more significant than the 90-day only IQ study, this looks at models that have been on the roads for a few years.

Baja also took #2 in class.

-juice

gretsch43 · August 2006

2004 is a good year. I have two, his & hers and we have not had one bit of trouble in 2-1/2 years.

outdoorgrl · August 2006

Thanks. I took it to the dealer again, as the noise/vibration started happening everytime I was on the highway at 60+ MPH. The problem happened for them when they test drove it, and they thought it was the rear drive shaft. They removed the rear drive shaft, but found nothing. They test drove the car a couple more times and thought it was fixed.

But it's not. The vibration has seemed to dimnish, but the low, growl noise, that seems to come from the front (engine area) of the car continues (and gradually gets louder) . Now I am at a loss. Any ideas?

dryfly · August 2006

I've been told that the mudflaps for the 2001 forester are no longer in stock. I can't find any from the various mail order or junk yards.
Question: can I use the mudflaps offered for more recent model year Foresters?

I just had to get my right rear wheel bearings replaced (71,000 miles). Now it makes me nervous about replacing my timing chain - this is what killed my previous Honda Civic. When should I do this? Is now too soon?

TIA

don

stevecar · August 2006

I don't know if this is an answer, but you seem to know about used subarus. I have an 01 Forester with 44k miles and just had head gaskets replaced under that extended warranty/recall. How have people's experience been after this was done. Is it worth to keep car really long term or trade it before 8 year extended warranty/recall expires?
Thanks

kate5000 · August 2006

I have 2001 Forester - it's got 152K miles on it and still going strong. In my experience it was well worth keeping it past the extended warranty.

ateixeira · August 2006

I would only trade it or otherwise get rid of it if the engine overheated severely. That can warp the heads and then the surfaces are not flush and it won't seal well no matter what gasket material you use.

If you did not have that happen, the new gasket material is much better and I doubt you'll have the same problem again (knock on wood).

-juice

Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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