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Subaru Impreza Engine Problems

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't own one, but I'm guessing it's a warning light that is just meant to inform you that VDC is kicking in, that's the stability control system.
  • modeselectmodeselect Member Posts: 5
    so what do i have to do? balance it?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Does the light stay on?

    Did the tire (or wheel) sustain any damage?

    I would not use summer tires in the snow at all. I would order a set of winter rims and tires.

    Try tirerack.com, discounttires.com, and vulcantire.com.
  • modeselectmodeselect Member Posts: 5
    the light doesnt stay on when i shift up or slow down when driving 25mph
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Juice, I don't think the STi has VDC, or does it for 07?

    My guess is that when you hit the curb, you also may have damaged the ABS sensor and that's why you are seeing the ABS light on the dash.

    As for redline at 2000RPMs, check your shift-light setting. It's adjustable, and perhaps when you tagged the curb, it got moved down to the 2000 setting.

    On the Blowoff Valve, gotta ask WHY DO YOU HAVE IT? First of all it gives you LESS POWER than the stocker, and yes, they may hassle you at the dealer, but none of the problems you are bringing this in for would be covered under warranty since you did the damage by hitting a curb.

    Tires will be rock hard. I have stock EVO tires on my Legacy GT which are very similar to the summer tires on the STi, and I just switched em out at the nick of time yesterday.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry, I was thinking 08 for some reason. They're not even out yet.
  • moairmoair Member Posts: 2
    Very loud noise starting the engine, especially in cold days. The noise goes away after running a minute or so. Its a 99' done a bit over 30k.What could be the problem? Thx
  • moairmoair Member Posts: 2
    and the black blastic box (for air intake?) atop the engine is shaking more then it used to. The engine itself is quiet and smoth though.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Did you have your air filter replaced recently or other work done on your car?

    -mike
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5L RS Coupe. It is a standard and only has 87k miles on it...this is the problem or should say problems:

    1 - Doesnt like to go in reverse...once in reverse cant get it out of reverse...like i can take it out of reverse and it be "nutral" but i cant put it in any gears...i took it to five differant garages and they said my clutch is fine...i usally have to play with my car for 2 to 3 hours with the shifter and double clutchin and it will evenutally go into gear...when im driven on the interstate (every day) ill put it in to fifth gear and say i catch up to a car (which isnt hard to do) waiting to past him ill take my foot off the gas so my rpms drop and i slow down...and i can see my shifter in fifth gear go up in down...hard...i had a broken trani mount and thought that was the case...nope still does it....

    2 - Just a week ago up to today when i stop or roll and take off...my car makes a poppin noise from the motor i know what a CV joint makes so i know its not that....it makes the popin noise like its miss firing or something in 2 and 3 gear...and it jerks the car...

    3. low gas milliage...i travle to work every week (5days) which is a 48 mile total to work and back home...and i will fill it to where that gas is commin out so i know shes full...and drive her to "E" pretty much like a 1/16 of a tank...and only able to get 200 miles total so ya im fillin up every four days...and i go 75 mph on the interstate...

    anyone have and ideas on any of my 3 problems post what you think is the case...but only if you know what your truley talkin about...becaseu i dont have time to screw around i want someone that knows whats they are talkin about...i need theses answer so i can fix them asap because im in the ARMY and its my only ride....because i live in the sticks(maine) near not to many people that travle the way i do in the morning...

    Thanks
    Zach-
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    WELL I RUN AT ABOUT 4500 THROWING IT INTO 3 THIRD GEAR AT 65 MPH...RACING...BUT JUST CRUSIN ON THE HIGWAY THEN LIKE 2750 RPM IN FIFTH GEAR...THATS WHAT I RUN AT...AND I HAVE A 2.5L 2000 SUBARU RS
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    3. How many gallons are you putting in when you go 200 miles? Your gauge could be off and you are filling at 1/16 but it may be 1/2 or something else.

    2. Popping like a miss? or popping like something is loose. I would say motor mounts may be in play given the age of the car.

    1. When did you last change your trans fluid? What are the ambient temps? I'd say go with a fresh fluid change to synthetic.

    -mike
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    3. when i fill up i fill up till gas is coming out...and i drive it till the gas light comes on...when i fill up i put about 11.4 gallons in my car and i think i have a 12 or 13 gallon gas tank.

    2. how would i go about check the mounts...and i was thinkin it might be the drive shaft clunking the pin on either end might be broken and the drive shaft could twisting off set...

    1. i havent changed it sense i bought the car...only had it for 4 to 5 months but ill go ahead an do that....

    addition problem....check engin light came on got it check it was the knock senser only thing that came up...replaced it and i was driven down the highway and it turned back on...this morning i am leaven for work and the check engin light blinks for a while then it will turn back to the solid check engin light no more blinking...wtf does that mean motor about to blow? haha

    zach
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Ok forget the motor mounts or the drive shaft. That noise is probably the engine knocking/misfiring. The blinking CEL is an indication that you are having a misfire at that time. Could be bad wires/plugs/coilpack/knock sensor.

    As for the milage you are getting about 18mpg which isn't that far off, especially if you are getting knocking and misfires. Also if you are doing an extended warmup that will knock down your milage.

    -mike
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    ya that right about the warmin up...just last time i filled up i litterally got 200 miles exacted then i fill up threw in some dry gas (live in maine) so with the snow storms we have been getting i figure why not...and i've used a little more then half a tank and as of right no i have about 140 miles...and that warmin up and the misfiring...

    ill look at the spark plugs tomorrow and why not ill change them and ill check my plugs....dont know what a coilpack is nor where thats located...but ill find it...

    i love this car so i just want to fix it and babby it...well baby the out side...

    zach
  • rally5rally5 Member Posts: 4
    I cant find were the fuel filter is on my 06 subaru sti. Can you please help.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I hate to say it, but I am pretty sure the fuel filter is located in the tank by '06 model year....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    yup they are...it sucks. i think that was a poor design due to the fact i know up here in maine we replace our fuel filters every 6 to 8 months...i had an audi that the fuel filter was inside...they droped it once...then i sold the car... wasnt worth the trouble for me...

    HEY! i need someone to tell me if theres anything thats out there that will boost my fuel miliage up! in maine its cold we warm the damn things up gas $$$ want better gas milliage...there a chip or and mods that i can do to boost it up with performance...

    NOTE: this morning had a Camero pull up next to me this morning and smiled...i smiled back and lit his world on FIRE...advantage on my half with AWD do we just had a storm yesterday so it was still slippery...then we wanted to play on the high way...well i think we all know what happend next he can turn inbetween car like us SUB's can!!! never saw him again...ps he had a PIDDITAL!!! :D
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    hey guys thanks for reading my post...by the way i drive a 2000 subaru impreza RS 2.5L , 2dr coupe, sillva!!! with 88k miles now!

    i had another post up about my engine and trani...i have about 4 problems with my car right now...but im not going out that easy, subaru's are my life love them...anyways so these's are my current problems:

    bent link for high gears that goes into my trani...

    cars miss firing...

    gas miliage sucks...

    frozen rear caliper...Minner

    and what this post is all about, i have replace a knox sensor in my car about not even jokin a month ago. check engin light came on so i got it looked at replace the knox sensor...so you know everythings fine...then the light comes on...run the codes again and its the damn sensor again...so now im like WTF!!! then another code runs by and its my coil pack that needs to be replace thats the miss firing...

    yup so ill leave it at that...

    Zach
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For a misfire, check the spark plugs first, then the spark plug wires, then finally the ignition coil.

    I believe the coil costs something like $80 from an on-line parts wholesaler.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Regarding the temperatures and fuel mileage....

    First, the less you idle it, the better your mileage. For example, we had a 4-day spurt of -30 to -40 temperatures earlier this week. When we warm the car up prior to driving it, such as when we take the children or out of sheer laziness, we get about 16 mpg. This time, though, I was just using it to commute, so I fired it up, let it idle for about 30 seconds, and then off I went. My fuel economy, while not stellar, was 19 mpg. In the summer months, on the same commute, it is more like 26-27 mpg.

    Other things that help:

    *Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 engine oil. Fabulous stuff for winter driving. Regular 5w-30 will turn to sludge long before the Amsoil even shows signs of increased viscosity.
    *Amsoil 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. If you have a manual transmission, which it looks like you do, this stuff really reduces drag in the driveline. Other synthetics probably give similar benefits; I only mention Amsoil because I have personally used it.
    *Block heater and pad heaters. At temperatures below +20 degrees F, plugging in the car two hours prior to start-up will reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Of course, then your electricity bill goes up slightly. A block heater is 400 watts, and oil pan heaters are typically 75 watts. Not huge power users, but depending on how long they are on, they make a difference.

    We pay 13.5 cents per kilowatt-hour here in Fairbanks right now, so electricity is horribly expensive. I keep my cord on a timer to minimize the electricity consumption. At 40-below, pre-warming the engine makes the difference between a flawless startup and possibly not starting at all.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have to second the Amsoil.

    -mike
  • doofus54doofus54 Member Posts: 21
    hey there:
    I could use a little advice on this problem. My 96 Impreza has a light on the dash called ' AT TEMP'. Lately when starting from cold, the light will occasionally flash several times before staying off. As far as I can tell, only when cold starting. Anyone have a clue?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It indicates there is an AT Issue with the car. The blinks mean something but I don't know what exactly they mean.

    -mike
  • germanboyprogermanboypro Member Posts: 7
    hey man i did some research while i was at work before i clocked out(military) not knowing what the AT sensor was...and what i can find out about it is that it a Air Temp sensor...who knows why that would go off...i lve in maine....so i know the cold part on the cars, and its not so great for them....but check your air senor make sure that it is connected right...and i look again and am a little confused on it still but a nother site said that it was a coolant like water might be in the coolant...i unno i feel like im talkin out of my [non-permissible content removed] but i have alot of probs with my ccar as well man but find somethin out keep me inform.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    AT Temp light refers to the Automatic Transmission Temperature.

    -mike
  • doofus54doofus54 Member Posts: 21
    Yes but why does it flash several time before going out when the car is started, even from a cold start when there is no heat? Faulty sensor? Maintenance reminder? Problem alert? Worried about the writers strike? The tranny works perfectly, I prefer to do my own work, but know nothing about automatics.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    A flashing AT Temp light at startup indicates a problem with the transmission. The blinks will give you a morse-code like setup and then the factory manuals can translate what the issue is.

    -mike
  • rally5rally5 Member Posts: 4
    I am not sure if I need a new cliutch kit or if I need to just adjust the clutch. My 06 sti will go when I push on the gas but if I push to hard it will just rev to high rpms. Then it starts to smell after shifting and driving for a while. If it is just in need of adjusting, were do I find to adjust it at. Someone please help, its been 3 weeks since I have driven my car.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There are no adjustments on hydrolic clutches in these cars.

    I'd say the clutch is shot or there is something preventing it from fully releasing and slipping.

    How many miles on the car?
    Any mods?
    Drag race at all?

    -mike
  • sgosssgoss Member Posts: 3
    Ok so here's the issue. I just purchased a brand new Imprezza a month ago. It's manual shift. I've noticed that it doens't idle at a consistant level (level goes up and down while stopped in neutral) and the RPM's sometimes drop so low when I am in neutral that the car rumbles as though it's about to stall. This prompted me to take it into the dealership; but then I was told nothing was wrong. One week later or so I was getting off of the highway and shifted into neutral and while the car was still moving it stalled! I took it back to the dealership (told them what happened) and after they checked it out told me that nothing was wrong with it again. It has since stalled again in the same curcumstance!

    Has anyone else had this problem? I'm a tad worried because when it stalls I loose my steering which is obviously a huge safety issue if the car is still moving.

    Any advice would be appreciated! I new to Subaru (used to drive a Honda Civic) and have never experienced anything like this in the past....
  • rally5rally5 Member Posts: 4
    I have exactly 40k miles on the car. The only mods that I have are full turbo back exhaust and a K&N filter. No I don't drage race at all. I think it just needs a new clutch.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It could need a clutch, that's possible. I'd still opt for checking the fluid level, and the master/slave cylinders before a clutch at those miles and that style driving.

    -mike
  • npb2000npb2000 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all, I own a 2006 Impreza 2.5i AT. It is my "work" car as I am a traveling salesman. I currently have 109,000 miles on the vehicle after purchasing this new about 2 years ago. I keep up with the oil changes, tire monitoring, general maint. ect.. Recently had dealer service: Timing belt, oil, coolant flush, tranny flush, front/rear diff serv ect. Runs great for the most part. When idling there is a "rattle" from what sounds like the driver side engine compartment (only in gear, not in neutral, and more noticeable during cold starts). Read a post about a heat shield? Any advise on what to look for? Also, any tips on high mileage maintenance (synthetic oil?)? I need to get 250K out of this car before its paid for. Also, slipped my mind, I have never replaced the spark plugs, any tips on the type of plugs (they look rather accessible).

    Thanks.
  • npb2000npb2000 Member Posts: 5
    Had an old VW that did that, turned out to be a leak in the air intake, engines gotta breathe
  • npb2000npb2000 Member Posts: 5
    I have 2006 impreza. I have a similar issue with idling/stalling(or almost stalling) whenever I remove the battery. After putting battery back in (i take it out to get to driver headlight easier) I see this issue for a couple days (a couple hundred miles) then back to normal. Think it's a computer issue, like a factory reset or something so the car can "learn" your driving habits. Yours automatic?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Go with stock NGK replacement plugs.
    I'd run full synthetic (redline or amsoil) for such a high milage car.
    On the AT I'd put a cooler in and make sure that is drained/filled every 20k miles.

    Other than that you should be good to go.

    -mike
  • sgosssgoss Member Posts: 3
    No it's standard.... The problem is though it's only a month old and the dealership is telling me there is nothing wrong with it but it stalls when i am still moving! I'm just not sure what else I can do...
  • npb2000npb2000 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the tips Mike. If/When I switch over to full synthetic oil, at what frequency do you recommend changes? I currently change monthly (every ~3000-5000 miles).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd say do it every 10k or so. That should keep you in good shape with the milage that you drive. I'd also look into getting an Amsoil or other high-milage filter for the car. It's the filter that keeps the oil clean and generally the oil won't break down but the filter will get clogged before you hit 10k miles.

    -mike
  • haemon17haemon17 Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 2008 Impreza 2.5 wagon less than 2 months ago and it has stalled 8 times since I've had it. The dealer said the same thing to me when I took it in. I'm going in again tomorrow, so we'll see what happens.
  • sgosssgoss Member Posts: 3
    well let me know what they tell you. I too am going back to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can find the problem... will post what they say
  • sigh_of_reliefsigh_of_relief Member Posts: 4
    I too had this very same problem. I have owned the car for a couple months now. Last week here in Canada I was on my way to work and coming up to a traffic light I began to brake. The car is a manual.
    I pushed the clutch in and applied the brake in the usual gentle manner. Once I had come to a stop I noticed a couple new lights on the dash. I then realized the car had stalled. I started the car again, accelerated forward a little then hit the breaks, same thing, it stalled again!
    I then thought it might be due to excessive power draw (please note lights were not on, nor was defroster... just radio, AC to dehumidify, and wife's seat warmer). At this point I turned seat warmer off, likely largest draw. I then accelerated and hit the brakes, the rpm slowly came down as normal then dropped below the 300 rpm line and lugged but recovered (barely).

    Anyway, after that day I have now always nervously watched the Tachometer when clutch goes in or I stop. I have noticed the RPM going very low and lugging many a time but no stall.
    Now it has only been a few days since the stalling and I believe I know what the problem is!
    When you start the car the blue/cold engine light is on. If you drive away without allowing the car sufficient time to warm up (and the blue light go off) then the idle seems to run lower and recover from an RPM drop poorly. I believe this may be the computer learning the precise idle mixture requirements for idle (given atmospheric conditions). If you drive away too early it is not given adequate time to make the adjustments.
    Please let me know as I have ensure blue light goes out always since then and all lugging has even gone away completely.
  • sigh_of_reliefsigh_of_relief Member Posts: 4
    I do plan to bring this up to the dealer on Monday still and have them do an investigation.
  • npb2000npb2000 Member Posts: 5
    That may very well be the case. I changed the driver headlight yesterday, unfortunately had to remove the battery again to access it. The car did idle ok at initial start up after the battery was back in. However (Auto Trans) I reved the gas a little in park and the RPM drop stalled the car (2500rpm and then off the gas all together). I re started the car and reved it up again, now slowly letting the rpm's drop to appropriate idle level. The car did not stall, but almost did. Then I drove 300 miles home from my weekend sales meeting with no problems, but every time I stop I can just feel it struggling a bit to idle, and I'm quick to pop it in neutral.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, did you happen to jar anything that might be part of the air intake system? You may have introduced a vaccum leak, that is causing your stalling.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • sigh_of_reliefsigh_of_relief Member Posts: 4
    Should be as solid as the day it left the factory and only 1000 miles. No modifications in any way (bone stock non-turbo), I use Shell gasoline 87 Octane as required so not likely to be bad gas.
    Anyway, I have made an appointment for next Wednesday, I'll keep you all informed.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My guess is that you probably knocked a vaccum line loose somewhere and that's causing your problem.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • sigh_of_reliefsigh_of_relief Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Mike, I'll make a point of mentioning this when it's in next Wednesday.
  • jeffearljeffearl Member Posts: 1
    My son has a '95 Impreza and I had to tow him home a couple of nights ago. The car acts like it is running out of gas and then dies. I let it sit a couple of days and took the fuel filter off to check it. Sure enough, I can hardly blow through it. A new one has no resistance blowing through it, so I must be on the right path. I'm concerned that I need to bleed the air in the filter, so I turn the key to the on position to start the fuel pump. No fuel. The tank is 1/2 full or my son thinks so (the fuel gauge does not work). Can you hear the fuel pump work with the key turned on? Do you have to bleed the fuel system when changing fuel filters? Is the fuel pump located in the fuel tank?
    Does it sound like a fuel pump? Does this car have an oil pressure relay that could control the fuel pump?
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