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i will post result later
The Transmission place I took it to found a Toyota "Advisory" of some type that the Transmission Mount for the 2007 Sequoia was redesigned for that year. I'm not sure if it "recommended" that it be replaced with the old mount style but that was the gist of it.
Remembered seeing a post here that there may be an issue with the connection between the drive shaft to the rear wheels and the transmission and this seemed to fall into that line.
Replaced the part months ago and haven't had any more problems. The part was listed as "Trans Mount " on the invoice and cost $107 for the part.
I don't know what database the transmission place searched or have any information where the Advisory came from.
I have notice in the last 2 years when outside temp get above 90F my seq tend to start off on ,ow gear with engine roaring when I let up on the gas and shift then it goes away. Trans show now signs of being hot. wondering if your loud humming type sound is the same
would it have to have a new ECU?
I have the same issue when the car go into overdrive, so did you get the issue diagnosed? If you deactivate the overdrive button off the noise goes away, so it is definitely something with overdrive.
For those that are experiencing the 'clunk' at stopping and starting, I would have your drive shaft checked to see if it requires grease. On the 4Runner, the drive shaft is not a sealed unit and has six zerk fittings that need to be greased. I have to grease mine at about every oil change and it's fine. If I don't, it clunks when starting and stopping.
symptoms:
- probably 4-5 months ago: random jerks while shifting gears but occurred very rare and infrequent. Didn't think much of it because it would go away and the engine light never turned on.
3 wks ago:
- engine started stalling, intermittently, when at a stop light or stop sign (idle low) however, engine was fine as long as i was moving (applying gas, meaning RPMs high) again, no indicators showed on the dash.
- - mechanic couldn't figure out if it was the ecm/ecu (car's computer) or if it was the transmission because the car would somehow fix itself by the time i brought it in (see murphy's law) lol
--- usually, turning the SUV off, put the car in park and waiting 30 sec before turning the car on would get the engine going again.
- incidents became more frequent, i had to have the car in neutral, apply gas to keep the engine from dying and then shift to drive when the light turned green... right turns were always nerve racking because slowing down would can the engine to die but i also didn't want to endanger anyone so i was doing a lot of california rolls
- finally, my car had it and completely died. it started with the car having issues switching gears from reverse to drive and it felt as if it was never fully in drive. It died at a light 2 miles from where i started the car and it wouldn't turn back on. mechanic verified it was the transmission.
was told i could get a used tranny for $1500 or rebuilt for $2500. joy.
I had a camry 98 (my dad bought it brand new and it was passed around in the family) that had 300K miles on it and only needed regular maintenance ... how is it that a 2003 can't handle 200k?!! toyota's aren't what they use to be
This problem *should* throw a code but retrieving it depends on the type of scanner used and the skill of the technician.
Also, at 160,000 miles and 11 years, it would be difficult to convince Toyota to participate. These miles and numbers are getting close to the statistically predicted lifetime of most modern cars.
One also has to wonder, given how soon this occurred after you bought the truck, and how the problem comes and goes, if the previous owner wasn't aware of the issue.
Some possible solutions to the problem:
Changing the fluid and filter Replace faulty Pressure Control Solenoid
Repair or replace a faulty transmission pump
Repair or replace defective transmission valve body
Transmission flush to clean passages
Cleaning corrosion from connectors Repairing or replacing wiring
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2714
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
The majority of shops and techs are honest, well trained, hard working and committed to doing their best for each vehicle owner they provide services for. When I see a post(s) that has to use phrases like " don't get jerked by scammers" and "its easy for a mechanic to fool someone regarding transmissions" it's not a big surprise if there is information in the post that cannot stand on its own. As if $89 dollars is the right price for a transmission to be getting serviced correctly. You should read one post above yours where it talks about a service was done without using the correct fluid. You don't need to go to the dealer to get the right stuff, it is available through aftermarket sources but it will cost more than $89 just for the fluid.
If you don’t want responses to your posts, then don’t post.
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so I replaced some of the oil, The Sequoia worked well after that for one day, still no symptoms of a failing transmission. in the evening I went back to my driveway. I stopped the engine and restarted it but it happened again as soon I placed it in the drive. could it be because of the heat (Near Las Vegas)
I do not know much about automatic transmissions but it seems that some clutch is getting sticky or something and wondering if my oil filter could be dirty if oil was wat changed for a long time. (no way to know, but it was not recently) . I doubt the filter had ever been cleaned or replaced... could it cause this problem?
If I get some positive results changing the filter and the oil again, could it be safe to drive at least to a repair shop that is 15 miles away?
Any comment appreciated, thank you.
I read that it could be the torque converter clutch solenoid...
I thought of replacing it although costly but cheaper than a mechanic. any idea?