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ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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To get an image to show up in a post here, you just click the "img" button while writing a post. It'll insert the first part of the code tag needed to display the photo.
Then, paste the link to your photo, and click the "img" button again to insert the last bit of code. Once you post your message, the photo should show up.
Thanks, and let me know if you have any problems.
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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Hope it stays this way.
radio/CD player cutting on and off while trying to listen to it. It was the switch behind the right rear interior pannel, by right rear tire that was causing the problem. When I was at the dealer today to purchase a new $20.00 switch, the parts man asked if my car was a convertible, and I said it is. He said they have replaced a lot of those... but wasn't aware of any recall. He didn't even need a part number to find it on the shelf.. Works great, no problem replacing and thank you all again for the SUPER input and advice I read on this site. I think Toyota should own up to this problem and replace at their cost.
My radio is now out of warrantee. The dealer service department never heard of this switch.
What is the part name/number ? Where can i get one ?
Sit in back seat passenger side. Remove panel which is on top which is below rear window, same panel where seat belt goes into panel at top. You will need to remove #2 phillips screws which hold panel in place. Screws are hiding behind seat belt front cover where belt goes down in panel, under cup holder which allows arm rest cover to lift off and one more right on left side of head rest in corner. Remove panel. You will see switch which is in verticle position. Remove switch with torx screw driver. (2-screws) You will need to purchase switch qty-1 p/n: 84231-06010 switch 2008 price approx. $22.00 and go ahead and purchase some new panel clips, qty-4 p/n: 75868-06020 $2.00 each. Note: remove two washers which are under old switch and place under new switch. Reverse assembly with everything.
If for any reason you want to by-pass switch, just unplug switch. Radio will still work in standard mode. The amp sound will not increase in performance when top is down and sound will not be as sharp. This will allow you to save some money if budget for new switch is not available..
Thanks
Keith Finch
Keith Finch
Keith Finch
Could I just bypass the switch and leave the amplifier on all the time. THe radio sounds better with the amp on. It is funny, most of the forums with Toyota answers don't mention this switch. Radio replacement or amp replacement is their solution.
If for any reason you want to by-pass switch, just unplug switch. Radio will still work in standard mode. The amp sound will not increase in performance when top is down and sound will not be as sharp. This will allow you to save some money if budget for new switch is not available..
Helps to do some reading before asking questions which have been asked and answered....
blozano's Solara is a 2005 model too. If you go back a little further, he posted some other details about the fix, but nobody's posted any photos yet.
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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After giving up the first time, I decided to let the dealer do it, but they wanted $200 for the job. Since the description seems simpler than that, and I didn't want to invest that much in the fix, I thought I'd check back here for more info.
I was really confused re why to remove the screw in the bottom of the cup holder, as there seem to be three or four separate(?) panels: (1) a dark gray one on top (through which the seat belts retract), (2) a light gray one below that (which has a courtesy light in in), (3) the cup holder, and (4) below that, one which has a speaker. Is that all just a single piece? If not, which of those come off together once those 3 screws are removed?
Also, you mentioned purchasing some new panel clips, but didn't mention were these were and why to replace them - are they broken/damaged when the panel is removed?
Glad to get any advice you can share (including "forget it, you're clueless, let a pro do it"), and would be especially glad to get a link to a schematic for the removal of the panel, to make sure I'm understanding the directions correctly...
Thanks in advance!
:confuse: ">
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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I then decided to read the internet and see what I could find, and of course, many of you have the same problem. I have ordered the parts you mentioned, and will plan on installing them myself. Thank you so much for posting this solution. I have serious concerns about service reps at a car dealership that have no idea how to diagnose an issue, even when you tell them exactly what is wrong. I told them there was a switch that boosts the audio when you put the top down, and you always here the audio cut in and out. Now it does that ALL THE TIME, so the switch has gone bad. They said there is no switch at first. When I picked the car up, they said yes there is a switch but it worked for us, never cut out.
God they are idiots. Oh well. I'll save myself the money in doing it myself for a total of about 30 bucks. I will let you know how it works out, but thanks so much as I have contemplated selling the car just because I am so tired of not being able to listen to anything.
crashky@live.com
blozano posted the fix a few times uptopic -- you can find a detailed explanation here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101569/112#MSG112
jhnptbrg posted details about accessing the manual here if you're having trouble finding the switch:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101569/122#MSG122
(and we're still waiting to hear how danielp0623 made out.)
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Instructions say:
"using a screwdriver (with tip taped) disengage the 3 claws and 4 clips and remove the panel upper"
then
"using a screwdriver, disengage the 5 clips and remove the [lower] panel"
My memory is that I pulled the panel away from the side of the car first, then lifted it upwards...but I was being gentle for the same fear you voiced, and am not exactly sure of the directions of tugs that freed the panel - mine took some pressure/force, but didn't require "ripping" it away.
Good luck!
Then, make your image show up in a post by using the IMG button to post a link to the photo.
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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First link is about some XM radio install but it gives some diagrams of the things to do for removing some of the panels (e.g. see page 4). The whole install as described is an overkill for this fix but parts of the description/procedure should be useful.
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PT546-06061inst.pdf
The other link is the you tube video where the guy is showing what to disconnect in order to make the switch inoperable. Based on the description of the fix that I have read in this forum, this guy might have overdone it with seat removals etc. to drum up more business for him.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XIw_EmWdyM
If anybody has more pictures of their own effort to add to this forum, it would be very much appreciated.
Bimal
Thanks to this forum, you nailed the problem and I fixed it in an hour. Right now, I only disconnected the switch but I may go ahead and replace the switch.
For those of you who are hesitant to get involved in removing the panels, it is easy. Just take it slow so you don't break any clips.
Thanks again.
After waiting for 45 min, I let them know I thought it was the switch, and that's what I wanted replaced. Desk guy said "OK". another 45 min later, still waiting, I go and ask the desk guy- any idea when it will be done? he says they don't know what's wrong with it yet...really? I thought I asked you to replace the switch? "It doesn't have a switch"... I said- I thought you might say that, so here is where it is, and here is the part# (took it from page #13 of this thread) but he comes back to me telling me that part# is for a courtesy switch in the trunk...
He goes back to the tech to tell them to replace whatever switch I'm talking about, but comes back with "there is no switch, we think it's the amplifier" I said I thought they might say that too, and no way am I paying $800 for that when they're not even sure that's what it is...I'm still trying to access pics of the exact location of the switch, my iphone isn't the fastest, but by then they got it buttoned back up and sending me on my way with a "sorry, bring it back when we can spend more time diagnosing it". Why is this so difficult for Toyota to figure out???
So now to decide if I try to fix it- what is the correct part#? Or what is it officially called? Or do I take my laptop in to them and educate them for a nice big bill...stay tuned
You need to click on google image after clicking on link to the picture .
P/N 84231-06011 replace old P/N 84231-06010
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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These are my observations that I think may help anyone else who is considering to attempt the fix themselves. First, after removing the cupholder/armrest, the rear panel comes off in one piece, not two as I inferred from previous posts. Removal of the cupholder/armrest is a piece of cake; one screw under the felt pad in the cupholder and then lift straight up. The three screws that hold the panel onto the car are: 1.underneath the passenger seat belt return slot at the top of the panel (be careful when prying off the cover, it doesn't take a lot of pressure to release it), 2. in the middle of the panel (this one is hidden until you remove the cupholder/armrest), and 3. underneath a small tab located next to the rear passenger side seat belt return slot (at the top of the seat back). It is important to remember which screws go where, they are not the same size; two are short (about 1/2 in.) and two are long (about 1 in.)
Now that you have removed the screws, the panel can be pulled off, but don't be surprised if you break one or two of the clips in the process. I would recommend you order the four clips as suggested by blozano. When I say pull the panel off, I mean pull toward you as you sit in the back seat facing the panel. Ok, we are almost there, but this is one of my biggest frustrations in removing the panel. There is a tab that inserts into a slot at the bottom rear corner of the panel. I had to fish my arm down to the tab and push it through the slot. This is hard to explain but when you start the job, it will be clearer. You may have someone shine a flashlight down behind the panel so you can see it clearly. Once the tab is disengaged from the slot, the panel can be pulled completely out. Remember to unhook the courtesy light wiring harness. You will see it, and it's simply a pinch and pull to disconnect.
The next step is to raise the top about half way. I suggest this because you have more light to see what you're doing and if you are tall like me, the extra room is needed to manuever. I had no trouble locating the switch. Just look for a white wiring harness connector toward the rear of the panel opening. The switch is located just above the white connector. As described by blozano, the switch is held to a bracket by two #20 torx screws. Removing the switch was my second frustration because of the tight quarters you are working in. I had to use a small ratched and torx bit. Luckily I have a motorcycle so I've accumulated a lot of speciality tools over the years. I first tried to use a torx screwdriver, but found that it was too tall to get into the space. If you can find a torx tool like an allen wrench this would also work. Once the switch is removed the wiring harness is disconnected by pinching and pulling apart.
Now you are home free. Everything else goes back in reverse order. Put the new switch in, replace the torx screws, reconnect the wiring harness, and put the panel back on. The only snag I had was dealing with that tab at the bottom of the panel and pushing it back into the slot. It helps to have skinny arms. Don't try to force this. If you are patient and work with it enough it will finally succumb to your pressure and slip into the slot. You may have to replace any broken panel clips and be sure to reattach the courtesy light wiring harness before you snap the panel back into place. Rescrew the three panel screws, put the cupholder/armrest back into place and secure with the screw and replace the felt pad in the cupholder (remember to put the correct length screws back the way they came out). Viola, you're done! I tried the radio by raising and lowering the top several times and drove around the block and everything seems to work fine.
In all, I guess I spent about an hour and fifteen minutes on the job, but now that I've done it and know more about what is involved and what tools I need, I think I could easily do it in 30-45 minutes. I hope this helps those of you who have hesitated to try the fix. It's really not that bad; it just takes some patience and once you start the process, some of the steps that you may have trouble visualizing will become evident.
http://www.toyotapart.com/84231-06011.html
Remove the panel as in the instructions in this thread, having a small 3"socket handle set helps because it is a tight space. Removing the wire will leave the amp on all the time, not sure if you want that. Part was about $18 at the dealer rip-off parts counter. Don't forget there is a screw under the cup holder felt you need to remove (felt peels right up). The Switch is in line with the top up/down mechanism and sometimes hard to see. Plenty of light will help you find it. Buy the part first so you know what it looks like. Took me about 30-40 mins to complete the job.
I have a 2001 Solara SLE Coupe. The radio, no matter the station or strength, always has some static in it. Where should I check for connection issues?
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I'm completely mechanically disinclined and I was still able to do the job myself. It wasn't as easy for me as many of you made it seem, but I made it through it with all your help. (I opted simply to disconnect the switch rather than replace it, so I was able to leave out some of the steps.)
So thanks again!
Now all we need to do is figure out why
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I've had it for a while now and the static isn't as bad as before. Maybe something jiggled back. I do know that the antenna isn't as strong as others i've driven though.