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Hyundai Azera Electrical Questions

popeye4popeye4 Member Posts: 5
I've owned my 2006 Azera Limited for two months, but it's mostly been at the dealership for a mysterious electrical problem. If the car sits for more than 5-6 days, the battery is as dead as can be. The dealership found no problems and finally replaced the battery. After 8 days of non-use, everything's dead again. The Hyundai mechanics are at a total loss as everything tests okay. They are asking corporate for an "expert" to help out. I don't even have over 200 miles on this car. Does anyone have any ideas? I've suggested a faulty alternator diode or computer, but testing shows everything positively in acceptable condition. Do I have a lemon? Any suggestions?
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Comments

  • donvickdonvick Member Posts: 38
    I would get a different car from the dealer or they would keep this one until it was fixed. Since they already haven't a clue, I think I'd go for a different car and start over.

    Demanding a different car will raise a stink and maybe get them on it for a fix.

    We've had no problems with our 2006 Azera w/8000 miles so far.

    Don
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Member Posts: 299
    I agree with the above post. You are also a PRIME candidate for the Lemon Law. If this situation continues for very much longer, especially with the extremely low mileage, I think you'll be getting a brand new car real soon ;)
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE 3
    The Lemon Law varies from state to state.
    I believe that most statutes require you to have had 3 documented services for the same problem without success.
    That problem should be easily corrected by a tech who has average electrical skills.
    If there is a power draw when the ignition is off, other than the small amount necessary to power security system and clock/computer memory it can be detected with a simple multi meter.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    My vote goes with the diode pack in the alternator. I blew a couple diodes in my Toyota truck's alternator jump starting it. Since not all of them smoked, the "BAT" light didn't light up with the engine running, but the battery slowly lost its charge with routine driving. Once I installed a rebuilt alternator, the battery came back up and held a good charge thereafter. If you want a second opinion (free!) drive your 200 mile car over to an Autozone store and ask them to do a load test on your alternator. They do NOT have to remove the alternator from your car - they merely start the engine and hook up a hand-held instrument to the alternator's connections. You'll know very quickly whether your OEM alternator is putting out the proper charge current at idle speed and above.

    (I'd be tempted to take a bet that during pre-delivery someone at the dealership jumped the battery for a hotshot without pulling the battery's negative lead first.)
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 5
    If your Hyundai dealer hooked the car into their computer, all of that information would be immediately displayed.
    If they haven't, you might consider going to another Hyundai dealer for warranty service.
  • jim101jim101 Member Posts: 252
    Sounds like a 'light' is on, trunk, glovebox or similar when the doors are closed. Good tech should find with multimeter. Put in garage at night, lights off in garage, open and close every thing looking for something that is turned on.
    My sons car had a short in the power window switch when he activated the window. Not enough to blow the fuse but enough to drain the battery over several days. This short was in miliamps or lower, everything tested normal.

    The tech needs to check the car for a positive ground vs. a negative ground, one strand on stranded wire could be the culpret.

    Good luck
  • hyundai2hyundai2 Member Posts: 37
    This is going to sound stupid. My brother has an "03 VW Jetta, with the same problem. Might be worth a shot. He was told that when he exits the car, if he sets the alarm, all curcuits shut down except the alarm, and the battery has enough capacity to last for weeks and still start. If he does NOT set the alarm, all curcuits stay ACTIVE and the battery will only last about 3-4 days. Since then he has been setting the alarm, and NO MORE PROBLEMS. Nothing else was done to the car. Since the Azera is a NEW model, the Tecks are learning on us. Its called OJT, On the job training. Feel like a Guinney Pig. Join the club. I have an "06 Azera with 11000 miles, but it goes everyday. Post your fix when they find it, for rest of us.
  • popeye4popeye4 Member Posts: 5
    Update: The field services "expert" from Chicago was to have arrived today to check the car out. In the meantime, the dealership replaced the battery (for the third time) and also replaced the radio/6-CD player. Apparently, there's been at least one other instance where they feel the radio/CD player was at fault. The original radio seemed to work okay when I had the rare opportunity to try it. The car started fine over the Thanksgiving holiday, but it hadn't been sitting for the several days it takes to generate the problem. I'm waiting for the call from the dealer.
    As far as their troubleshooting is concerned, they feel that since the problem is electrical, the computer wouldn't be operational to have recorded any codes. But, they checked it anyway, and nothing showed. No lights are on (trunk etc.) but I did notice once that the dome light came on and then went off for no apparent reason. Also, once when driving, the rear sunshade raised into position all by itself. The techs are aware of these things. Countless multimeter checks show no questionable current drainage, other than minimal draw from the clock, theft deterent system etc. For some reason ,they've eliminated the alternator diodes from the possibilities.
    More information later as it becomes available.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I would agree with your vote, Ray. I will add that my ex-mother in law bought a new Pontiac Sunfire and the battery died the second day she had it. She had to leave it on a parking lot. We were able to jump start it and it would start but then die almost immediately. I began checking the wiring and found a "plug" hanging loose. I tried pluggin it into the alternator and the problem was solved. Too often dealers don't look for the simpler things.
  • chilliwackchilliwack Member Posts: 189
    I think it's pretty obvious. Your car is infested with gremlins. ;)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Yep - little devils get into everything. I'm always shoo-in' 'em away!
  • popeye4popeye4 Member Posts: 5
    While checking the engine compartment (with the hood open, of course), it was observed that a small rubber "bumper" was missing from its mounting hole. With the hood open, look near the inside edge of the hood on the passenger's side. About 1/3 of the way from the front edge there's (supposed) to be this bumper knob. When the hood is closed, this knob presses down on a switch (which shares a mounting screw with the coolant recovery tank) that has to do with the theft deterrent system. This knob was missing on my car. The service manager said this is what was causing the draining of the battery. He remarked that on ocassion when people wash or service their car, this knob gets knocked off and therefore draws on the battery. If the car is driven frequently, the battery is kept charged and there's no problem. However, in my case, since my car is garaged for 5-7 days at a time, this is enough to drain the battery. He keeps several of these knobs on hand at the dealership. He doesn't know why mine was missing. Maybe it wasn't even installed during manufacture. So, I'll see if this is really the solution here. In the meantime, everyone might just want to take a look at your Azera (or any Hyundai model) just to make sure it's there. If this is really the fix, it couldn't be simpler (or cheaper)! I'll post another update next week.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 13
    I'm surprised that the anti theft system would arm without that bumper. Wouldn't the computer "think " that the hood was open?
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Member Posts: 299
    Can I assume that this switch triggers an under the hood light so you can see the engine at night?

    If so, that does make sense and I never would have thought to even look there :confuse:

    Looking forward to hearing that this did, indeed, correct your problem. Had a similar problem with a Ford (I know it's a FORD and you don't have to say it) 1999 Windstar. After multiple trips to the dealership about every 4-5 months with no fix in sight...I just got rid of it.
  • popeye4popeye4 Member Posts: 5
    The service manager was correct in that installation of the small rubber knob solved my problem. The car sat in my garage for 15 straight days before I successfully started it! I feel so relieved! Any way, I don't totally understand how this theft deterrent system works, but without this rubber knob, the system never really was armed. After arming (with the key fob), the red light on the upper dash should remain a solid red color for about 25-30 seconds, at which point it will then begin blinking. If anyone rips open any door, trunk lid, or hood, the system will go into alarm (lights flash, horn blows etc.) Before this knob was installed, the light just blinked continuously, the car was really "unarmed" and the battery was slowly being drained. There is no under hood light in this model, and apparently the switches for the doors and trunk are part of some internal devices installed for these things (maybe trunk lamp, door locks etc.). Anyway, I now feel safe in pronouncing my car "A-Okay".
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 16
    Thanks for the info. I have same problem with my Chrysler Seebring. I will now look to see if there is a similar switch, athough my anti theft works fine.
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    I went to my dealer to get the limp home code for my 07 Unlimited and the service department told me that the immobilizer systems were not yet active on the 07 Azeras, even though it is discussed extensively in the owners handbook. Any one else found anything out about he immobilizer system, limp home codes, etc??
  • cmbairdcmbaird Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I had mine set on my 06, the dealer was a little confused at first, then set it. If I can remember the code, and all, maybe it will be a help in the future. CMB.
  • grayfoxgrayfox Member Posts: 166
    Anyone need a Factory '06 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 20
    Yes!
    How does one obtain one?
  • grayfoxgrayfox Member Posts: 166
    floridabob, email me privately using stlqb at sbcglobal.net
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I took my car to the dealer because the air bag light was on. They took plenty of time trying to find the cause and finally say they would have me return it when the factory rep came in the next time. I have a great dealer but the factory rep has cancelled his last two visits. The passenger air bag light off light comes on and the air bag light on the insturment cluster comes on. However, they both come on and go off erratically at times without any reason.
    Has anyone heard of this problem?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 23
    I would assume that the dealership checked the harness from the passenger seat.
    As the passenger side airbag is deployed only when the passenger seat sensor indicates more than a set weight on the seat cushion, I would check to assure that the harness connector is secure.
    If it is secure, the dealership could and should run a computer check on the system.
  • notocernotocer Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my 2006 Azera. The passenger side seat belt sensor is usually the problem. Requires the sensor to be replaced. The sensor will also cause the the drivers airbag light to stay on.

    The other problem would be the seat bottom is bad, however you have to go through the whole list of codes before getting a new seat bottom.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Here's a TSB which doesn't actually mention the cause, which might be that under-the-hood switch which connects to the security system. When the hood is down, the switch is depressed and the system can be armed, but if the switch isn't properly depressed because the hood bumper isn't quite doing the job (or if the switch is bad-open)...

    TSB 07-90-008
    JULY, 2007
    AZERA (ALL) & VERACRUZ (ALL)
    INCREASED CURRENT DRAW ON AZERA AND
    VERACRUZ VEHICLES WITH HOOD OPEN

    This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.

    DESCRIPTION:
    Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security system’s hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode. While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.

    Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
    To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
  • tech44tech44 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2006 Azera with 37,000 miles on it. Every now and then it won't start. Acts like it isn't getting any spark--gas maybe both. It might start 20 times then it won't. I switch the key off and back on and it starts. Has anyone else had this problem or heard of it? Looking for a fix as it is quite annoying.
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Member Posts: 160
    Yes, the same thing happens to me too. Quite annoying. Even if I take it to the dealer, since they would not be able to replicate the problem, how can I fix it?

    Another annoying thing that happens is that sometimes when the car won't start, the Trip Meter zeroes out! Now, this car not starting problem occurs once in a while & the trip meter zeroing when it doesn't start happens even infrequently
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Member Posts: 160
    I have a 07 Azera & I haven't had that trouble. But Hyundai recently put out a TSB for Sonatas for passenger Airbag sensor misprogramming.
    http://www.autoblog.com/2008/04/16/hyundai-recalling-nearly-400-000-sonatas-to-c- heck-seat-sensor/

    Now, although it is for Sonata & doesn't mention Azera, since Azera is built on Sonata platform & shares a large number of components, it might apply to you too.

    Check with your dealership & Hyundai corporate
  • dave007dave007 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Sometimes it won't start at all until I flip the electric doorlocks back and forth a few times. I think it is related to the security system. The dealer has reprogrammed the computer and also suggested there is a problem with one of the keys. But nope, nothing has worked. It is really annoying. I thought I was the only one with this problem. Have you learned anything more since you placed this post?
  • budhbudh Member Posts: 109
    Apologies from someone very unfamiliar with the "Add-A-Circuit" (mini size in my case - see http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf - to be installed into a new Hyundai sedan) and how to install and use it.

    1. Does the single red wire contain only the positive wire, or is somehow the ground wire also part of that red wire?

    2. What kind of female connector is on the end of that red wire? And what kind of male connector is required to connect into it? What tools/supplies/directions would be needed for installing the right connectors needed?

    I have a GPS unit and radar detector to hard wire and neither have the type of connector that would fit into the end of the red wire on the Add-A-Circuit.

    Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance or even to be pointed in right direction for this information.

    Bud H
  • dayers1dayers1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and the dealer can't figure it out. 2008 Azera with 33K miles. Every 20 or so tries it won't start, but turns over fine. Dealer says it the keys, but new keys didn't fix it. Has anyone had this figured out?
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Can't see why it would be a key. I'd hazard that non-recognition of an inserted and turned key would (a) not even turn over the starter and (b) put you into "limp-home mode"...
  • bboobb131bboobb131 Member Posts: 1
    DEAD BATTERY...I found your post searching for answers to why my 07 azera had a dead battery after 4 days of not driving, on a few occasions. The dealership told me it was normal with all the new gaggets on cars now a days. I told them they were wrong.( I've got several years of working on cars, motorcycles etc.). The dealership checked my car and said the battery and alternator were good. Told them I already put a load on them and they checked good for me too. The one thing I'm not to experienced with is the new alarm systems etc. I later found your post about the hood security switch rubber bumper...Yep, you guessed it, the bumper was missing, replaced bumper, problem solved. Thanks much to you and the people who post so others may learn.. I,m sure this is still an issue with newer hyundai owners...
  • bugsy8bugsy8 Member Posts: 1
    Great info here, didn't see this issue (sorry if I missed it). I have a 2006 Azera, 49k miles. Driving at night, applied the brakes headlights go out, then flash back on. Did it again (to marke sure I didn't dream it), yep, did it again. Then intermittantly headlights go off and on by themselves. Yes, night time driving 70 miles down the freeway. Dealer had it 2 days, determined the valve cover gasket was loose, leaking oil on the alternator causing a short. OK, possible. Picked it up, next day, mid day.. applied the brakes dashboard lights go out! Did it again, then they started intermittantly on their own flashing off and on. Back to dealer. Have it 3 days, determined battery cables faulty (positive) causing a periodic drain, replaced both. Went to pick it up, didn't even get the door shut to drive off, flashing on the dash - Recharge Battery!, battery light on. Dealer pulled it right back in, started looking at it thinking maybe a cable was not tight, determined the junction box was bad, the screw not secure or broken? Currently sitting there waiting for the new one. Only change during all this was using the cigarette lighter, that had never been used before, (since I've had it). I've only had it a year. Any ideas?? This is a real safety issue and concern!!
    thanks!
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    get the factory rep in to look @the vehicle and contact Hyundai...stress safty issue...might generate a recall good luck.....Lemon Law???? in more than 3 times for the same problem (Florida Law)
  • alexz4alexz4 Member Posts: 1
    i got same problem with 2007 azera
    anyone have solutions?
  • mamabearvpmamabearvp Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    I have had the same intermittent starting problem for some time and the dealership could never duplicate it. I eventually contacted the service manager and he promised to find the problem.
    I finally have an answer!! My Hyundai dealership in Peoria, Az really tries to give top notch customer service. If I understand correctly; under the steering wheel cover is an antenna that relates to the key and therein lies the problem. The part is on order and should be here in about a week. I love my Azera and that was the only complaint I have had. This would be a customer appreciation repair and not cost any $$$ from my end. I also needed to have a bearing on my rear shade screen replaced several months ago (I do use it allot) and although out of warranty; the dealership split the cost with me so the cost was minimal.
    I hope this will help others who might have the same concern.
  • lyn1herelyn1here Member Posts: 3
    My 2008 Azera (purchased earlier this year) is having the same electrical problem you described. This is the 3rd time since August that it has been in to Hyundai service to correct the problem. The battery was replaced the first 2 times and they can't find the drain and after sitting 5 days, it was dead again. My frustration is mounting and I need help! Did anyone find a solution???
  • penzfan1penzfan1 Member Posts: 28
    Neighbor had the same issue. After many visits and replaced parts Hyundai found a loose ground wire under the hood. Fixed.
  • penzfan1penzfan1 Member Posts: 28
    My '06 Azera 3.8L idles @ 1600 RPM when cold. Anyone elses do this? Seems high. Thanks
  • lyn1herelyn1here Member Posts: 3
    Everything seems fine NOW but, the car hasn't set in the garage for any length of time without being driven. Plan on not being here to start it for about a week and then I'll know if they solved my problem or not. They found a missing little bumper thing under the hood and replaced it and also my audio system. Claimed they could never find the "draw" so tried those suggestions I gave them after I researched the problem myself and saw others with the same problem. The audio system would not eject a CD and I suggested that but they swore if it wasn't turned on, it wasn't the problem. I pushed them until they replaced it. I will post again after we return from our trip and see if the car will start!
  • genny1969genny1969 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with the car periodically not starting. What is the "bumper" thing that you are referring to? Thanks!
  • popeye4popeye4 Member Posts: 5
    The "bumper" thing people are referring to is a black rubber knob-like thing that is seen when the hood is opened. It's on the left side at the edge where the hood would close. The security system is activated with this switch. My knob thing was missing from the dealership. So, the battery completely drained in a short time (the car thought the hood was opened all the time, even when it was closed). The dealer told me that this knob can come off easily, usually when the car is serviced or even washed, if the thing gets knocked. I suggest checking to make sure it's there. If not, get one from your dealership.
  • SilverBullet00SilverBullet00 Member Posts: 102
    The sure way to eliminate the power drain when the bumper is not installed is to disconnect the wires from the switch that the bumper pushes on when the hood is closed. The alarm system will still operate with the switch disconnected. ;)
  • lyn1herelyn1here Member Posts: 3
    Sorrry you are having the same problem. Look at the other post that tells you where the "bumper " is located. To tell you the truth, we went away for a week recently and when we returned home THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN. So I really wonder if that had been the problem at all. I truely believe that it is just something Hyundi has not perfected on their part when making the car to begin with. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN THAT ASPECT OF THE AZERA. At this point, we feel if we go away on a trip we will NOT be leaving this car in long term parking because who wants to deal with a dead battery when they return from a trip???
  • dmalliadmallia Member Posts: 7
    I have an 06 Azzy Limited with 130k miles on her. Recently, when I tried to use my remote entry key fob, it didn't open the door. I thought the battery was dead in the sending unit. It started fine and I began driving. I immediately noticed that the trip odometer had zeroed out, as did the miles per gallon computer. I also noticed that the side mirrors will not retract when I push the button. Additionally, I have noticed that the map lights are not working and the light ring around the ignition does not illuminate. All fuses seem fine. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • joegarshajoegarsha Member Posts: 1
    I wish I would have come to this forum earlier. I have a 2008 Azera with about 69k on it. I have been having issues with it not starting for quite a while. It has been to the dealer several times and they have told me it was either a key fob/antenna issue or battery. I am now taking it in for the first time since the warranty expired (bought it used so only 60k warranty applied). Unfortunately, the documentation of the issue doesn't seem to support it as an ongoing issue so we may be footing the bill. The issues now are not starting all the time, dying/dead battery, trip meter going to zero and rear shade having a mind of its own at times. It sounds like this is somewhat of a common problem. I checked the black bumper tied into the security system under the hood and it seems fine. It is so frustrating because all 3 dealers we have been to make it sound like they have never heard of such a problem. Any recommendations?
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    "I checked the black bumper tied into the security system under the hood and it seems fine..."

    If it's a dying battery problem, there are six places where the security system might see a problem; four door switches, a trunk switch and the hood switch.
    But you can eliminate all of these as a cause if you get a "beep" and a parking light flash when you use the remote to lock up. Point being, you don't get the beep-flash if the alarm system isn't happy because a switch is not made...
  • SilverBullet00SilverBullet00 Member Posts: 102
    I also had battery issues due to two cds that were hung up in the player. ended up removing the radio/cd player and tearing apart the cd player to get the two cds out. No more battery problems. Also, even if the rubber bumper that is supposed to push on the hood alarm switch looks good, just unhook the wire to switch and leave it off. Alarm system will still work on all other areas except the hood.
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