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I have an 07 GP which develops a hard intermittent miss during acceleration. It isn't necessarily hard acceleration, it happens with with light pedal too. It gets worse when the ambient temp is in the hi 80s lo 90s, especially when sitting in rush hour traffic. In the morning or cool weather there is no problem, which leads me to believe it's a sensor breakdown at hi temp. No check engine light, no code errors, no reading from OnStar real-time diagnosis.
Any ideas? MAF sensor is my first guess.
Thanks!
I would recommend taking the vehicle to your dealer of choice to at least have the vehicle diagnosed. Could you please email me? Please include your VIN and a brief description of your issues or a copy of this post. I hope to hear from you soon.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I had the dealer replace the crankshaft position sensor and so far so good. I drove the car for almost 1000 miles and it hasn''t stalled yet.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
Could anyone please help me out?
(great deterent for car theifs too) and it only cost me $10 bucks for the switch and 0 guage wire. hope this helps
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
Thanks
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Or was the steering wheel removed/reinstalled for a repair? Where I'm leading to is perhaps if the upper & lower steering column covers were removed possibly on reinstallation one of the 2 mounting screws pierced the anti-theft wires and at times causes the control module to think the car is being tampered with going into failsafe mode and stalls cause the system either doesn't read the resistor on the ignition key or it shuts down the fuel pump. With road vibrations it could be just the right bump or movement of the steering wheel to surface your ghost problem. Good luck! :shades:
What fixed my stalling issue was having the crank sensor replaced.
I am having what appears to be much of the same problem as many of you are having and I need help. My 2004 Grand Prix GTP has around 73000 miles. Back in november my car wouldnt start. It would crank but didnt fire. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump and the car ran fine up until a week ago. I had my car running idle for about 15 mins with my wife in it, when i came back to the car she told me it started to run rough and a light came on. She turned the car off and couldnt remember what light she saw. A week later as I was driving home locally my car cut off, my traction control warnings came on saying service, I was able to get it to restart only for it to cut off again a short time later with the same results. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low so they again replaced the pump. Got the car back and it ran fine for 3 days and again driving locally it died again with the same indicators lighting up and wouldnt restart. To make note, I dont even hear the pump hum when the key is turned on. Please tell me my pump has gone out again. Its barely 3 days old. I dont know if it could be the crank and cam sensors or the ignition module or if there is something else going on. Any ideas and advice would be appreciated.
That is what is causing your car to die....
Thank you for your quick response. I appreciate that. I kinda thought so because I had this same problem with a 99 chrysler 300m but after reading many other posts on here I just want to be sure. Have you had this problem too? If so did this rectify it and did you replace it yourself or take it to a shop?
No check engine light and so no codes to pull. No traction light issues which sometimes occur when the crankshaft position sensor is failing. I didn't want to change the crankshaft position sensor because, quite frankly, it sucks. Changed the ignition control module. No change. Changed plugs and wires with no change. Finally decided to change the CPS. After much research and finding conflicting information I compiled a procedure with just the truthful parts I found and it worked beautifully and the car runs perfectly now. The CPS on these cars fail. If you have decided to change yours out it is a $35 part and is DIY with the proper information, which follows, some ingenuity, and some mechanical apptitude:
Jack and secure car. Remove passenger side tire and the plastic wheel well. The clips will probably break, so buy new ones at a hardware store later. Number and remove spark plug wires from the ignition control module so the car won't start. Remove the center bolt (15/16th inch head) from the harmonic balancer. Easiest way to do this without a doubt is to postion a flat wrench on the bolt, rest the boxed end of the wrench on the car frame in front of the harmonic balancer, and tap the starter. Remember to disable the car from starting. Bolt will break loose. To pull off the harmonic balancer use a standard harmonic balancer puller, but you will need special grade 8 bolts and washers. 1/4-28 bolts, 3" long, one inch of thread is o.k. Place a short 3/8" extension in the crank bolt hole to protect the threads. Carefully, by hand, thread the specialty bolts through the puller and into the 3 holes on the balancer that seemingly have no threads. The threads are farther in and not visible. Make sure the bolts are straight, and inserted to an even depth into the harmonic balancer. Use washers or the bolt heads will gouge and pull through the puller. I turned my specialty bolts 15 quarter turns into the harmonic balancer. Turn the puller's main bolt that it is pushing on the 3/8"extension you placed in the crank bolt's hole. Balancer came right out/off. Remove crankshaft position sensor shield. Mine was plastic. Spread the teeth that connect the shield to its bolts with a small standard screwdriver and pull/pry just a bit. No reason to remove the shield from the bolt farthest towards the rear of the car. You'll be using thread glue on the main bolt when you put in in so you can use some of that on the shield where it connects if you mess up the plastic teeth on the shield a bit. Remove the old sensor's two bolts, and save the part to torture in fire later. Bolt in new sensor, replace shield. Line up the harmonic balancer with its cotter key deal and start pulling the balancer back on with a torque wrench. To keep the engine from turning open the smalll access hole to the flywheel on the bottom of the car (two bolts). Place vicegrips on the flywheel or wedge something in the teeth. Tighten your glued main bolt to 112 lbs plus 76 degrees. You now have a car you can count on and need not worry about it dying while driving down the road. I love mine now. Just wish someone would have made these all inclusive and accurate directions for me.
well I figured out what my problem was with my car starting and stalling out. It was one of the connectors to my fuel pump. The connector with the four plug connection, a couple of the wires were loose. I simply went to a pull a part yard, found another connector just like it, spliced the wires and crimped em together and tadaa...it fired right up like a champ and has been running smooth and good as new all day. So anyone else that may be having this problem, check the connector to your fuel pump as well. You can let down your rear seat, lift the trunk liner and you'll see the cover with 6 screws, this is where your pump is and is easily acccessible. Hope this helps.
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I'm sorry to see that your dealership is perhaps having a bit of difficulty in locating the root of the concern. If we can follow up with them, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more information (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, the name of your dealership and appointment details on visits pertaining to the no-start concern).
Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Check the ground cable near the battery. Typically, there is build up on the copper eye that is bolted to the frame. Remove the cable from the frame, sand it down to remove the build-up, bolt it back onto the frame, and paint with rust proof paint. There is another ground cable attached to the engine but I routinely just check the one by the battery. If you want a pic, I can send those. Try this before replacing sensors, etc.
The throttle body also gets significant build-up but this wouldn't keep you from starting - just rough idle. Your issue sound more electrical / ground related.
My 2005 Grand Prix had the same issue. SIX GM dealerships couldn't tell me why my vehicle would go dead flying down the highway with no gas, pwoer steering, or instrumentation. My initial dealership was Roy Foss in Woodbridge - what a bunch dishonest crooks. I hope they lost their dealership in the cuts. I would buy another GM Vehicle but for my experience with these dealerships. Buy FORD next time they appear to know what they are doing.
thanks Bill