Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

123457

Comments

  • prettybprettyb Member Posts: 2
    am begin to think i brought a lemon or a car 2005 grand prix drive good and look good but some time get in car and it start right up and sometimes i get in i have to start it 2 or three times only had the car 2 weeks and i do have 3 year warranty i already took it to two place they send me to! and each time the car start good! So they dont seem think nothing wrong with the car! But am not crazy this car has starting problem! but it not all time but it enough!
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Sounds like it could be crank and cam shaft sensor. Some times it will allow the car to start with no problem and then sometimes it wont. Have your car hooked up to run a diagnostice just to be sure its not the starter, alternator or something else. But I would definately start there.
  • prettybprettyb Member Posts: 2
    ty you morgan im going check into this! Next week im going take it back to shop But i hope it not going cost alot to get fixed! I already got one car im getting work done!
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    I used to have a 99 Grand Prix. It would stall randomly and then start right up. It took the dealer a long time to figure out because they couldn't make the problem to reoccur. They replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and the problem got fixed. At the time the car had 125000 miles on it. It is a $35 part but there is some labor involved. I don't know if this is your problem for sure but it could very well be.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Hope you were able to get to the bottom of these issues since your last post! Let us know if you would like for us to look into anything.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Your welcome. Hope it all works out. Usually to replace the sensors may cost around $260.00, thats including parts and labor.
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1988 Grand Prix with the 2.8 liter. It will run perfectly, and always starts fine in after it has sat for a few hours. The problem is after it runs awhile and I park it it will start right away in the first few minutes, but after it sits for a half hour or so it will not start again for a couple hours.

    I had the module and coils tested, they are fine, and my mechanic changed the crank sensor yesterday, still same problem.

    As I saod, it will turn over fine, and if I pump it I can smell gas, it just won't start. What else can I check before I turn a mechanic loose on a problem like this?

    Also, as I said, no other problems, no codes or lights, no stalling, I think I could drive 1000 miles with no problem as long as I leave it on.
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    just an update..........changed the ignition module, still same problem....what's left? It will restart fine a few minutes after I park it, but it seems like something heats up while it sits and won't let it start after 20 minutes to a half hour.
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Hmmm,

    Furnaceman, to be honest with you I dont know what else it could be. I dont think its the starter or alternator. I would suggest taking it to either your mechanic or another one for a 2nd opinion. Also, try using Google and type in the search "starting issues with 1988 pontiac" and research some of the links it provides. You may find an answer there as well.

    Wish I could've been more help. If I should hear anything I'll be sure to share.
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    No, it doens't have any problems charging or turning over, it will crank as long as I want when it won't start, it just doesn't actually start.

    Thanks for the Google idea, I suspect I will be finding another mechanic for actually a 3rd opinion.
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    Have you tried engine cleaners to clean carbon deposits and sludge in the engine? In an engine that old you are likely to have a lot of it.
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    Not entirely sure how I can have a carbon deposit that can cause a problem sometimes? Also it only has 62,000 miles on it. Also not sure how this can cause it to not start after it gets warm but cause it to start after it cools for a couple hours?
  • pdilcher25pdilcher25 Member Posts: 2
    put new starter in car and it still won't start any suggestions
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Hello Pdilcher,

    can you provide a few details on what happened? What did your car do before it had the problem or what signs did it give? What does it do when you turn the key to start it? A few things to check would be the alternator, check your fuse panel under the hood and in the cabin of the car. Also check your fuel rail to make sure you are getting gas. You can do this by locating a small nozzle that has a cap that you would turn to take off, then you should see a small pin, press that pin down to see if fuel comes out. Make sure you do this with the key in the on position so that the fuel pump is on. Start by checking these few items 1st.
  • pdilcher25pdilcher25 Member Posts: 2
    MY son changed the starter the positive wire from battery to starter and cleaned the ground connection on the block and all its doing is clicking and when wetry to jump it, the crankshaft pulley moves a tiny bit then snaps back into same spot
  • coachdurbincoachdurbin Member Posts: 1
    My niece has a 2004 Grand Prix GTX. It will die intermittently. All electrical goes off and no codes. I am thinking it might be a bad circuit breaker and maybe an intermittent short. The circuit breaker might be tripping and then resets when it cools down enough.
  • gw76gw76 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ponitac Grand Prix it keeps cutting off. I took it to the shop and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it, but clearly there is something wrong. It cuts off if I am driving it in traffic, it cuts off if I am sitting idle such as in a drive through, it often cuts off as soon as I start it and then I have to start up again. Sometimes when I am sitting idle it starts to cut off and then it seems to like catch itself and jerks back on. There are times when I start it that it literally jerks when it starts.....PLEASE any ideas why this is happening and what this might be? Please respond....
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Hello GW,

    Here are a few things to check before you take your car out again. Check your antifreeze levels and your temp gauge when you are driving to make sure your car isnt overheating. Also, when you turn your key into the on position without starting it, turn down your radio and have the door closed and leave the key in that position for a moment to see if you hear the hum of the fuel pump. You should hear it hum consistently. Also, when is the last time you had a tuneup performed? Lastly, I had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be the connectors to my fuel pump were going bad. You can access your fuel pump thru your trunk bed I believe. I dont think Pontiac changed that considering I have an 04 GTP. Pull back the liner, you'll see a metal plate with about 8 screws, take off the nuts and lift off the plate. You'll see the connectors running to the pump. Turn your key to the on position without starting it, then kinda move the wires with your hand just a bit to see if the pump cuts off or continues to hum. Lastly, in some cases it could be a crank and or cam sensor. Try checking the other items 1st, hopefully this can help you use a process of elimination.

    Hope this helps.
  • fastredgtpfastredgtp Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem with my 2003 grand prix gtp - the fix for my car was
    the crank sensor.

    Took research on my part to figure out the problem - no mechanic could figure it out..
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    I had a similar problem on my 1999 GP. The deale,r after several days of checking things out, replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and the problem went away. The other thing you may keep in mind is the mass airflow sensor. The part is around $150, it is a 5 minute job. Mass air flow sensor throws a diagnostic code. The crankshaft sensor didn't.
    Good luck.
  • lisa121lisa121 Member Posts: 2
    Did anyone ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same issue with my 2006 Grand Prix. It seems to just stop running when it gets too hot, and it's been a hot summer. It's been to the garage three times now. First battery and starter, and crank shaft sensor, then the second mechanic found a wire in the ignition that came apart when it was hot, but now a month later, the same issue, and the mechanic says it's something different but they can't figure it out.

    Everyone I talk to says it's electrical, but it sounds exactly the same as the problem you had. Can you let me know what finally solved this issue for your grand prix?

    Thanks Lisa.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning lisa121,

    Is the garage you're working with one of our GM dealerships? Just asking to see if there's anything we can look into! Let us know if we can be of any assistance.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    sorry, I never have found out. It will start and run perfectly, start again if I try within 5-10 minutes of shutting off, otherwise I have to wait 2 to 2-1/2 hours for it to start again.

    Right now I just leave it running with a spare key if I make short trips.

    So far have changed ignition control and crank sensor, guess I have to save up money for the big diagnostic check that won't fix it anyway.

    Seems like something overheats in the cooling system and has to cool completely before it starts again. Hoping in this cold climate it will at least be an easier problem in the winter.

    Sorry......just hating this engine
  • lisa121lisa121 Member Posts: 2
    No, I'm not dealing with the dealership. If I went to the dealership they'd charge me hourly, and there's no way I could afford it. My car is at Active Green and Ross right now, which have been very good at diagnosing in the past, but this time, there are no codes when they do a diagnostic, and sometimes it stalls, and starts, and sometimes it doesn't start. It seems to be bad when it's really hot out.

    It seems that there are a lot of Grand Prix cars, different years, that all have the same problem. If you can help, I'd like you to tell me what it could be, or what other people have found to be the problem, when this problem occurs.
  • klingonwriterklingonwriter Member Posts: 1
    ... is having this exact same issue. Must be a flaw in that model. I'm thinking my next car will be a Ford. But right now it's not starting for the 3 out of 7 times we tried in the past 24 hours. Sometimes it'll start and sometimes it won't. I've been told it could be the alternator, starter engine, battery issue, solenoid, radiator safeguard, etc. We took it to an auto parts store for diagnostic but no codes came up.
  • edwardk756edwardk756 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix. This is the list that I have changed Ignition Contol Module, Ignition Coils, Plug Wires, Spark Plugs. With the same result of when it gets to operating temperature it cuts off and will not start until the car is completely cool. Took the car to the GM dealer and they told it was the Crank Position Sensor and replaced that along with another Ignition Control Module and when they wnet to take the car back to the wash bay the car cutoff again on them. Now the car is still in the shop for the issue of the car cutting off and the car did not put any codes out. The Check Engine Light does not come on at all. I also contacte Pontiac Customer Service to make them aware of this issue. I talked to a lady named Cheer like the singer at 1-800-762-2737. This is a real safety issue with the Grand Prix. The lady took my information and where the car is at the GM delearship. She said she will have a regional techical representive that works with the dealer ships in the are you live in. When the service advisor called me and it was the Crank Position Sensor, I asked if he was 100% sure that was the problem. He said he was 150 % sure and they replaced the Crank Position Sensor and it cut off again before I even got the car back. I told him about what I was reading about this issue is that would not fix this issue and now they realize that what I was telling them is the truth and now they are still trying to figure out what the problem really is. I will keep everyone posted on the outcome. To all those with same issue I will suggest contacting Pontiac Customer services and let your voices and concerns heard and maybe something good will come out of it.
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    Your problem does not sound like the crankshaft positioning sensor problem, I don't know why the dealer thought so, the symptoms for that are different. Crankshaft sensor problem is not heat related, it has to do with the firing order of the cylinders and the car starts up when you restart whether it is cold or hot. I didn't see the mass air flow sensor on your list, did they look at that. The only thing is that usually throws a code, you don't have a code. I called GM when my GP was dying on he highway suddenly going 60 70 miles/hr, they did a nice job of dodging the issue even though it is a safety issue.
    Good luck.
  • edwardk756edwardk756 Member Posts: 5
    Well here is the verdict on this issue. The aftermarket Ignition control (DURALAST) I put in the vehicle in place of the original Iginition control module because I thought it was the problem. When the Crank Position sensor shorted out when the car gets warm causes the car to cutoff. When the car is cold it will start up. When they replaced the Crank Position Senor and put the replacement aftermarket Ignition control which was the second one in a week. The aftermarket Ignition Control Module would get super hot and cause the car to cut off again. The dealership put the original GM Ignition Control Module in the car the car stayed running the drove it a 100 miles and the never cut off. When they finished their 100 mile test drive they took off the GM Ignition Control Module and it was cool not hot at all. So the original issue was the Crank Position Sensor not sending crank signal to Ignition Control Module. They replace the Crank Position Sensor and test drove to heat up car to Operating temp. What

    They retested with car in a hot condition and did a pin to pin test of Crank Position to Ignition Control had crank signal. Then pin to pin Ignition Control to Power Control Module had crank signal also pin to pin back to the Ignition Control from Powertrain Contol Module and had ignition signal for coils to fire.

    The Crank Position Sensor is behind the Harmonic Balancer in the engine block. When engine heats up the Crank Sesor is succeptible to the heat of engine and faults out and cause car to cut off.

    Pontiac Customer service was deeply involved finding the issue and root cause.
  • edwardk756edwardk756 Member Posts: 5
    Check signals from Ignition Control module to the Powertrain Control Module ( there are four signals two for Crank Position Sensor and 2 for Cam Shaft Position Sensor) Pin to pin tests are need to resolve this issue not a scan diagnostic tool. If you have the four signals going into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) also reffered to as the Engine Control Module (ECM) the checking of the signals should be done when the car is in the state of cutting off when warm and not starting. If the four signals are not coming out of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) then check the two signals from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Camshaft Position Sensor (CAMPS) going into the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The two sensors are located behind the crank shaft pulley Harmonic Balancer. If one of the signals are not coming into the ICM then you will not have a spark. If everything checks out as above then you would need to check the ignition control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) back to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) this is the signal that tells the coils to fire on top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

    I had the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix and did all the pin to pin test to find out what the problem and root cause for me was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) no signal from the CPS at all.

    I first took the advice from what was done by other posters from other websites and changed the ICM with a aftermarket ICM (DURALAST) and that caused more issues because it would contantly over heat and cause the car to cutoff. The duralast ICM for these cars are not up to OEM Specs even though they say it is OEM Specs.

    I replaced the CPS after the first Duralast ICM and put another duralast ICM on the car and car would cutoff and the duralast ICM would be super hot. Then I put back my origin GM ICM back in the car and have not had a problem with the car getting and cutting off.

    You would not get any codes for a CPS or ICM being bad all other parts ie. MAF, MAP, IAF, EGR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, and O2 sensors will throw out codes. The Crank Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are the weak points in this Ignitions systems because of the nature and where they located in the engine block heat will cause these parts to fail in time and will cause car to cutoff when hot and not start again until cooled off. Fuel pumps will plain quit working and never start working again. You need fire and gas for a car to start. No gas pressure at fuel rail no start, No fire from Coils no start.
  • edwardk756edwardk756 Member Posts: 5
    If the Computer System Failure is popping up the only it could be the the Powertrain Control Module or also called the Engine Control Module which is located in the Air Filter Housing.
  • edwardk756edwardk756 Member Posts: 5
    Check signals from Ignition Control module to the Powertrain Control Module ( there are four signals two for Crank Position Sensor and 2 for Cam Shaft Position Sensor) Pin to pin tests are need to resolve this issue not a scan diagnostic tool. If you have the four signals going into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) also reffered to as the Engine Control Module (ECM) the checking of the signals should be done when the car is in the state of cutting off when warm and not starting. If the four signals are not coming out of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) then check the two signals from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Camshaft Position Sensor (CAMPS) going into the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The two sensors are located behind the crank shaft pulley Harmonic Balancer. If one of the signals are not coming into the ICM then you will not have a spark. If everything checks out as above then you would need to check the ignition control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) back to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) this is the signal that tells the coils to fire on top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

    I had the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix and did all the pin to pin test to find out what the problem and root cause for me was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) no signal from the CPS at all.

    I first took the advice from what was done by other posters from other websites and changed the ICM with a aftermarket ICM (DURALAST) and that caused more issues because it would contantly over heat and cause the car to cutoff. The duralast ICM for these cars are not up to OEM Specs even though they say it is OEM Specs.

    I replaced the CPS after the first Duralast ICM and put another duralast ICM on the car and car would cutoff and the duralast ICM would be super hot. Then I put back my origin GM ICM back in the car and have not had a problem with the car getting and cutting off.

    You would not get any codes for a CPS or ICM being bad all other parts ie. MAF, MAP, IAF, EGR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, and O2 sensors will throw out codes. The Crank Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are the weak points in this Ignitions systems because of the nature and where they located in the engine block heat will cause these parts to fail in time and will cause car to cutoff when hot and not start again until cooled off. Fuel pumps will plain quit working and never start working again. You need fire and gas for a car to start. No gas pressure at fuel rail no start, No fire from Coils no start.
  • kashellkashell Member Posts: 1
    My 06 Grand Prix doesnt wanna start in the cold this year. I have checked the battery while it is running, and the battery is right around 14 volts. I have had an issue with one of the modules that controlled the headlights burning out, and having to be replaced. On the first attempt, I am not hearing anything out of the starter, but on the second try it clicks and starts up on me. When the car starts though, the date and time have all been reset. Any ideas on what this issue might be?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    kashell,

    Let us know if you were going to get this checked into at the dealership. We certainly understand if you were looking into different options as you're outside of warranties at this point, but just wanted to offer to follow up on any dealer visits you may make.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • cosully777cosully777 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    Ok, I have been working on this for a few weeks with no solution. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT that is having starting issues that are getting worse. It takes several attempts and needs me to give her a lot of gas to get her to start. Once started, if she doesn't stall in the first 5-10 seconds, I am good to go...runs like a champ. Battery is new, starter new, alternator new, new intake gaskets (upper and lower), new upper manifold, new coolant tubes, and new valve cover gaskets. The problem started before all these new items were put in. I am guessing it is a sensor (MAP/MIP) or another one but they are way to expensive to "guess". A fuel issue? Any help you could give would be much appreciated.
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    Hi cosully777,
    Looks like you have done extensive work done but you don't mention anything about the spark plugs. That is usually a good place to start because it is cheap and easy and the sparks will tell if you have any issues with any cylinder or with the spark plug wires.

    Your problem sounds like an old carburator choke problem, you sure they didn't slip in a carburator when all the work was done :-) Mass Air flow can be another suspect but it gives a code, are you getting any codes. Mass Airflow costs $130 - 180 non GM, (I got 2 re-manufactured ones, they both failed ended up getting a new one for a $30 more), it is a 5 minute job to replace it.
  • cosully777cosully777 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for replying so quickly. No, I have a code reader and it is not throwing any codes The "check engine" light came on once last week for about 10min and went off...no codes. I was debating about the spark plugs but I didn't know that if the spark plugs are bad the car can still start.

    So let's say it is a "carburator choke problem" what am I looking at to solve the issue? If you can't tell I am an amatuer home mechanic. I enjoy working on the car but this pontiac is one thing after another. Thanks for all the help!
  • jenb2011jenb2011 Member Posts: 1
    did you get this resolved? I have a 2004 grand prix gt2 that is doing the exact same thing! Never know if I go to get in my car if it will give me problems starting. Sometimes it starts right up, other times I have to give it a few trys. I dont want to spend money guessing what it is and put money into the car that isnt needed. Help please!?!
  • cosully777cosully777 Member Posts: 3
    NO, NOT YET!! It is getting very annoying. I checked the output on the battery and alternator again today and they are fine. It is below zero with the windchill here but it just started without a problem...that only happens once in a great while. I have no clue what to do...I think I am going to replace the spark plugs and O2 sensors and see what, if anything, that does. Let me know if you figure anything out.
  • damionsrdamionsr Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2013
    I have a 2003 Grand Prix GTP supercharged with 95xxx. The car was running great and all of a sudden I'm sitting at a light and the car shuts off and sets a check engine light. I go to restart and it and it wont restart without giving it some gas. Once it started it the idle fluctuated between 200 and 1000 rpm's. It set code P102. I noticed while the car running at idle i unplugged the IAT and the car ran better. When I plugged it back up it started running weird again. I replaced this sensor and drove the car around about an hour, ran beautiful. All of a sudden, I'm at a light and it cuts off again. Now I have to drive with two feet to keep it running because when I stop it just dies out. IT hasnt set any different codes, same code P102. When it acts like this it wont start unless i give it gas. If i just turn the ignition without giving it gas it doesnt start. After a few times of this it just turns over. If I let it sit for 2 minutes it starts up and runs fine, and then it will just shut down. Am I dealing with a MAF sensor issue or something else. I also didnt notice any vacuums hoses. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    The first thing I would look at is the Mass Air Flow sensor. I replaced mine twice, you should be able to look up the code. P102 points to MAF. Make sure you get a good one, doesn't have to be GM but watch out for the remanufactured ones. First I got a remanufactured MAF within 2 weeks it started acting up, then I took it back and got a new one and it was fine after that. It takes 5 minutes to replace it, it is on top of the engine.

    Good luck.
  • 99gtp99gtp Member Posts: 3
  • 99gtp99gtp Member Posts: 3
    99 GTP cranks but will not start, next day starts. drove for 2 days. Again will not start, had been setting for 2 hrs so not hot. Started next day fine. Next day dies at 50 mph (daughter describes like running out of gas still idle but 0 rpm) restarts go a little farther same thing again, takes back to campus, ran fine. 2 days later drives 110 miles home, fine. 2 days later I drive 10 miles to work, started and ran fine. 2 hrs later crank, no start. Could hear fuel pump running. Left key on popped hood checked connections, then car starts. Did fine rest of week, ran to warning on fuel level, filled to 3/4 tank, changed fuel filter let run for 15 min. 2-3 hrs later crank but no start. checked at bleeder on inj. tube had fuel. got back in car, started fine. Next day fine. 110 miles back to school. Monday starts and runs fine for 20 miles set for 4 hrs starts fine then stalls at 50mph a few miles up road, daughter tries to start several time, crank no start, told her to leave key on a couple min. starts and runs fine. Next day 110 miles back home fine. Help, I'm going nuts!
  • damionsrdamionsr Member Posts: 2
    Ok, now I'm frustrated. Took the car to a reputable GM dealer and they told me the MAF sensor plug was bad. Couldn't tell if the MAF was bad until we replaced the plug. Replaced the MAF sensor and plug, IAC. Take the car from the dealership, drive it and within the hour it's stalling again. only code it ever sets is 101. What it does is it can be running just fine, i come of the accelerator and the rpms drop to 500 and it's like the car is surging, the rpms are fluctuating as the car is fighting to keep running, give it a little gas and its fine. other times when you come off the gas the car dies instantly and it wont fire up unless you are giving it a little gas. the dealership cant seem to figure it out, fuel put is putting out a consistent 42 psi. another thing i notice is the boost for the supercharger is increasing when it should be. sometimes sitting at idle it flashes a couple of notches. i'm totally lost on this car!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    damionsr,
    If you want for us to follow up on anything with your dealership, please contact us at [email protected] with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • 99gtp99gtp Member Posts: 3
    OK car finally stalls and will not refire. Dealer mechanic diagnosis is crank sensor. $350 (with tow bill) running fine.
    Thought I would post result since I didn't get a reply or help on the first post.
  • john306john306 Member Posts: 2
    Assuming you have the 3.8 in the GT, cam and crank sensors have always been an issue. Holding the gas pedal down causes a clear flood signal to the ecm shutting down injectors though.
  • magus732magus732 Member Posts: 1
    Yeah, I've got a question. My 2001 Grand Prix GT has been "fixed" twice by a previous owner, and it stills stalls out randomly. Now normally, I'd just assume the problem was unrelated to whatever the mechanics fixed (i.e. MAF, cam and crank position sensors, which the previous owner told me were replaced before I got this car). But not long ago, my father was with me when it stalled out and he (who was an auto mechanic for 30-some years) suggested it's actually the security system randomly engaging, which makes some sense when you think about it. The 1997-2003 Grand Prix with an alarm system ( I don't know if they ALL have an alarm system or not...) have a Passkey III immobilizer-type setup that cuts power to the fuel pump and starter. This is EXACTLY what happens when it stalls out; the car will just suddenly die, with no warning at all except a shudder, and the "low oil pressure" and "low voltage" warning lights on the dash come on. When you try to restart, the fuel pump doesn't consistently engage, as if it's still trying to immobilize the car. Eventually it does restart, but it sometimes takes awhile. (This aspect, how many tries it takes to successfully restart, is also completely random).
    My question is this: since it's possible to deactivate the "content theft deterrent system" (which is, according to the owner's manual, the thing that actually cuts off power to the fuel pump and starter) without taking the car to a dealership, would this solve the problem?
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    Magnus, looks like you opened up a new frontier, thanks to your Dad. This is something I had not heard before. I had the stalling issue, but usually it started right away after a lot of research, the dealer replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and it didn't have the problem again until I sold it.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,142
    Please take a few minutes to answer our survey:
    https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/EdmundsForums

    It's really important for us to hear from our members and visitors to get direction going forward. Only good things are planned for the future, but we need to gather insights to get there! Whether it's your first time or you're a regular, we'd love to hear from you.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • wardy269wardy269 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    I have a 2001 grand prix that has 170000kms on it, always serviced and in good shape. It will stall randomly, whether I am stopped or going 50km. Some times it starts perfectly and others it has to be cranked over a couple times and then will shake like crazy, blow blue smoke out the mufflers, RPMs with rise and fall and then it quits. The oil and battery light comes on and thats it. After it stalls sometimes it starts right away, others can take 5-10 minutes. It has been to the GM dealer and hooked up to the computer, where they found nothing. The dealer is trying to tell me it is possible I blew a head gasket and coolant is now running into the motor and causing the smoke and for it to stall when the motor isnt hot enough to fire. Normally when your car is burning coolant it blows white smoke though. Said I need a new motor or to rebuild it. I feel like Im getting shafted, and will not fix it, as my car is not worth enough to spend the couple grand. I also see several related problems with CPS and ignition control modules and such. Has anyone has the same problem with the stalling and blue smoke
    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.