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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

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Comments

  • supercharger67supercharger67 Member Posts: 1
    Ive got a 2006 grand prix with a 3.8. We just put a new transmission in it a week ago and it has just started the stalling thing, usually first thing in the morning it will shudder with the idle going up and down and then it will smoke and stall. my "Anti theft not programmed" message is showing up. also my remote for auto start and auto door locks have quit working, i have scanned the codes and all that comes up is PO108, it is really driving me crazy, please post if you find out what yours was.
  • chrisbeougherchrisbeougher Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 gtp Grand Prix that all the warranty lights come on in it when it gets wet I seen other post about this problem as being a speed sensor I just bought the car a month ago I have aul coverage on the car I guess I'm just wondering if anyone knows what the problem is bc I'm not to sure aul will cover a sensor going out?
  • nickosweetnickosweet Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    I'm not sure if anyone can help me. I have a 2002 Grand Prix SE 3.1. It stalls out randomly while driving at low speeds or when stopped, it doesn't do it all the time but very frequent when it is. I had the alternator checked and replaced thebattery, cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor. I also completely cleaned up the ground to the car and what it was aattached to with no change. I can't seem to find a dealer or repair shop that can figure out the problem. It also at between 3000 and 4000 rpm will choke reallly bad and not gain any acceleration.

    I'm not sure if this is 100% but for the past week I have had it under half tank of gas and no issues what so ever you could step on the gas and no choking nothing but then I filled it last night and it started choking and stalling again. When it was doing it originally I had 3/4 of a tank. I just bought this car 2 weeks ago. When i drove it home had about 1/4 tank of gas and no issue at all. So I'm not sure if im just nuts in thinking gas has anything to do with it or not. Any advice tips or any information would be greatly appreciated! !!
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    Sounds like you have replaced quite a few parts but I didn't see you mention the Mass Air Flow sensor. Have you had it checked or replaced? It is not a cheap part but on my 3.8 liter engine it is a 5 minute job, you can do yourself.
    You don't have to get an original GM part but stay away from re-manufactured parts, I had to get a new non GM part. It solved the problems I was having which were very similar.
    Good luck!
  • aceboonaceboon Member Posts: 1
    In my 2001 Grand Prix I had a spare key made and hid it in a magnetic box under my car. I misplaced the original key and tried to use the spare one and after the car started it would die after a couple seconds. In the end I realized that nothing was wrong with my car and it was the key. Original keys have a chip inside them and when I tried to use the spare the security system would kill the car because it didn't have the chip in it. I was so relieved to find this out because I thought something was wrong with my car. I wanted to tell you thanks because it was this post you made that tipped me off to the possibility of a security issue vs. engine trouble. I found my original keys so I'm all good to go now. Thanks again! :)
  • dcampbell17dcampbell17 Member Posts: 1
    On my 2005 Gran Prix the car will start fine and drive well when it is cold. If I go to the supermarket and let the car alone for fifteen minutes it doesn't want to start right away and then the tach swings around wildly. I put the car in gear and it lurches with almost no power. The mechanic fiddled with it last week cleaning the throttle body but it is doing the same thing. I just replaced the o2 sensor upstream as well as the mass air flow to know avail. Can anyone help?
  • jbmototechjbmototech Member Posts: 1
    its the idle control solenoid just went thru the same thing even if it has been replaced it could have been adjusted wrong if your still dealing with this prob let me know and i can go a little more in depth with whats going on hope this helps
  • nose2nose2 Member Posts: 1
    After a normal 20 minute drive, 99 grand prix died. On side of road, couldn't get it to start for several minutes (like it was out of gas, but had 1/3 tank). FInally did start , and made it last few miles to my destination. About 1 hr later, Went to leave, car started fine, backed out of parking spot, gave it some gas and it died again. Couldn't get it to start again. Eventually, if I pushed gas a fair amount during start, I could keep it turning at about 3000 rpm. But if I reduced gas, got very rough and would die. Went to buy some heet (First real cold day of winter). Came back (about 1/2 later) poured heet in, car started fine (I was sceptical that heet would work this fast). Let it idle, untouched, for about 5 minutes. Got back in, revvd engine, it purred nicely. Left for home, went a block or so, got on main street, gave it a little gas, and it died again. Tried to start it again, couldn't do it.
  • furnaceman100furnaceman100 Member Posts: 6
    I hope you get a reply, mine does the same thing. Changed the computer and the crank sensor, no help.
  • twisted_onetwisted_one Member Posts: 2
    edited December 2013
    I have a 2001 pontiac grand prix, this thing has been nothing but an expense for the last 3 years. About 4 months ago the fuel pump and fuel filter was replaced, the car has been running great ever since till about a week ago I drove the car , after the running temperature was reached when accelerating the car engine (hesitated skips spits sputters bucks) not sure what exactly to call it, sounded like it shut down for a second or two then would kick back in when I would release the gas peddal and when its in park I also noticed the rpm guage fluctuates, but I notice it also fluctuated when set on cruise control... the service engine light did not come on right away... codes were read when it did kick on... got 2 codes P0171 - system too lean (bank 1) and P0443 - Evaporative emission control system Purge solenoid control circuit malfunction... had the purge solenoid replaced...still the code shows up... had the Ignition Control Module tested at Autozone all 3 coil packs ...thats good, the plugs and wires are about 8 months old, but they were removed and checked all good, gap is right on...Air filter is still fairly new and clean, Added a can of seafoam to clean fuel system and remove any water that might have been in the tank. Mind you the car starts right up first time...just rpm's fluctuates and when the running temperature is reached is when the other issue starts with the hesitaiton etc... This vehicle needs to desperately be fixed and service engine light off so it will pass the state inspection, I can't afford to take it to a shop, being I am on a fixed Income and raise my grandson and need this car to get him to and from school, doctors appointments etc... Any help would be greatly appreicated... Thanks in advance
  • shane7755shane7755 Member Posts: 1
    Its your fuel pump going out get a ac delco pump and have both filters changed there are to fuel filters and never let it go under a quarter of a tank and never use ethanol and never use any kind of fuel cleaner crap use 87 octane 100% gas every 3000 miles put a octane booster in the gas before filling and change both fuel filter every 6 months
  • pontiaclivespontiaclives Member Posts: 19
    It could be the fuel pump as the other post suggests but if you replaced it a few years ago it should be still good unless it was a third party or re-manufactured part that went bad. I had similar symptoms with my 99 GP, and replacing the mass air flow sensor fixed the problem, have you replaced that.
  • twisted_onetwisted_one Member Posts: 2
    Yes the fuel pump and filters were replaced about 4 months ago, the mass air flow sensor was replaced about a year ago.
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    I had the same problem. After doing a little troubleshooting, I checked the wires that connect to the fuel pump and one of the connectors was bad. It didn't connect to the pump properly. I simply replaced both connectors. That was over a year ago and it starts up like a champ everytime. Your pump is easily accessible from your trunk. Remove the trunk liner and then remove the cover to the pump. You'll see 2 wires running to it. If you are able, start your car and then wiggle the wires to see if it stalls and dies. If so, there's your problem and your answer. If you are not able to start it, move the wires around a little, gently, also make sure you have the key in the on position, this way you will hear the pump turn on and when you wiggle the wires you'll be able to determine if its the wires or not. Hope this helps.
  • takumi_takumi_ Member Posts: 7
    Try cleaning the aluminum bracket under the coil packs and the base of the ignition module (the square part the coil packs and wiring are screwed to). I used carb cleaner and a red scotch pad. Worked like new after. That area acts as a ground for the coils and module, and once corroded, causes the car to buck and sputter. A bad ignition module will cause the sputtering as well, but usually will sputter once the motor is up to running temps. (Runs fine cold) G.L.
  • jugmeisterjugmeister Member Posts: 1

    I've also got a My 2001 Grand Prix GT has been "fixed" three times by a previous owners, and it stills stalls out on the hiway randomly. Now normally, I'd just assume the problem was unrelated to whatever the mechanics fixed (i.e. MAF, cam and crank position sensors, PVC valve, mapping sensor were replaced before I got this car). Also the security feature suggested if it's actually the security system that randomly engaging. The 1997-2003 Grand Prix with an alarm system ( there is a 3 on the Key to see this) have a Passkey III immobilizer-type setup that cuts power to the fuel pump and starter. To check for this when your car is stalled turn it to the accessory mode for 10min then to the off mode and it should start if it is the key..

    This is EXACTLY what happens when it stalls out; the car will just suddenly die, with no warning at all except a shudder, and the "low oil pressure" and "low voltage" warning lights on the dash come on. When you try to restart, the fuel pump doesn't consistently engage, as if it's still trying to immobilize the car. I need to take the battery cable off wait and it seems to rest the computer...

    Please Help me i found that many people have this problem and the scrap yard is full of these cars...

  • toochaph007toochaph007 Member Posts: 1

    Ok, let me give you the back story...

    -Bout 8 months ago i gave my buddy my park avenue to swap motors into a Grand Prix GT i picked up with a blown motor. L67, Gen V, 1.85YT, SD Headers, 75 shot N2O, etc, etc

    -I believe that he took my motor and put it in his Impala, which is a story i'll save for later. Which i believe he top swapped his motor and put it in my car and dropped the complete L67 block in his. Makes it worse because i helped him find the parts to do it.

    -Guy on the forum tuned my PCM for these particular parts, which apparently i no longer have. Now since i started driving the car i put it on the highway like on my way to work and it randomly stalls out. No matter the time of day and no warning signs. RPM's dont drop fast but gradually fall back to zero.

    -I have replaced MAF, plugs, IAC, ICM, Coil packs, BBV, vac lines.

    -He did put on my SSIC, but knows if he did it right and swapped my pulley down to a 3.25. I did not buy the swap kit from zzp, so he spliced the wires for the map sensor, could they be wired up wrong?

    On the streets the it runs ok, it doesnt stall out at all. On the highway which is how i get to work is my issue. Out of nowhere and boom dead. It does however start back up immediately.

  • bonitachicabonitachica Member Posts: 1
    Could someone help me please? I have a 2008 grand prix keyless. Last winter my car wouldnt start only if it cold and the starter worked half of the time. Now my phob lock clicker dont work and starter dont work. Just replaced phob 1 half year ago. Plus the horn doesnt work either. Gzzzx must be battery, sensor or ignition?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252

    Could someone help me please? I have a 2008 grand prix keyless. Last winter my car wouldnt start only if it cold and the starter worked half of the time. Now my phob lock clicker dont work and starter dont work. Just replaced phob 1 half year ago. Plus the horn doesnt work either. Gzzzx must be battery, sensor or ignition?

    We're sorry for the issues you've recently encountered with your key fob, bonitachica. Did you happen to replace the fob at the dealership or did you buy an aftermarket part? If you're interested in having your local GM dealership check into this we're happy to stay involved throughout the process. If interested, please feel free to private message us your VIN, mileage and preferred dealership name.

    Amber N.
    GM Customer Care
  • william117william117 Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2014

    I have a 2006 Grand Prix GT that will suddenly stall out.  Starts out with a traction control and abs light then shuts off nearly immediately after with a electronic throttle control light.  Please help me.  No sensor codes for this dangerous problem 

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122

    I have a 2006 Grand Prix GT that will suddenly stall out.  Starts out with a traction control and abs light then shuts off nearly immediately after with a electronic throttle control light.  Please help me.  No sensor codes for this dangerous problem 

    My first check would be the battery. I'd consider replacing it especially if it's a few years old.
    The aging battery may be dropping voltage and that low voltage causes odd reactions from various computers in the car. Then check connections at the battery and the ground cable on both ends. And try wiggling the posts on the battery with the engine running to see if there's a broken post.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mcgrath27mcgrath27 Member Posts: 2
    Trying to get some help figuring this out. I got a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. The problem is that 90% of the time when I start the car I have to rev the engine or else the car will stall out. If I get on the gas for a few seconds its fine and takes off. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know the problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you checked for any codes? Does this happen with engine warm and cold,, or just cold? I'm wondering if there's a problem with the coolant temperature sensor.
  • mcgrath27mcgrath27 Member Posts: 2
    It happens when it is hot and cold. There are no codes that are showing at all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the symptoms are too general to make any kind of diagnosis. This could be caused by a lengthy list of possible issues. If you don't want to bring it to a shop you might try cleaning the throttle positioning sensor and the MAF sensor---these require different solvents and procedures but I'm sure you could find a How-To video on YouTube as this is a common DIY type of service.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    edited October 2014
    mcgrath27 said:

    Trying to get some help figuring this out. I got a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. The problem is that 90% of the time when I start the car I have to rev the engine or else the car will stall out. If I get on the gas for a few seconds its fine and takes off. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know the problem?

    Agree, these are pretty general symptoms and information.

    You might try removing the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator, on the fuel line on the front of the engine. Let the engine run for several minutes and see if any gasoline starts coming out of the vacuum opening in the FPR due to a ruptured diaphragm. That might let extra fuel into the vacuum line and the engine at startup after it's shut off. The extra fuel in the line and manifold makes it a little too rich, requiring extra speed and air to slurp it into the cylinders without drowning the motor at first.

    You might try cleaning the idle air valve, which is right there on the throttle body with the MAF and the throttle position sensor. It's held on my two screws. Do not immerse to clean, just rub and brush. Clean with appropriate cleaner on the end, and clean the opening into the throttle body. I've read of one of those being gunked up with the blow back carbon and not letting enough air through that bypasses the throttle butterfly plate. Also could be related to the oil gunk that collects on the inside of the throttle body and keeps the butterfly from opening easily when first started up. You have to push a little harder: the engine cools and the throttle body shrinks against the butterfly. To move the throttle plate with the accelerator, you have to scrape through the goop that collects on the inside when the engine is shut off from the oil vapor in the engine. Usually it only gives resistance that first time it's moved after sitting for hours.

    You might try starting the engine with the MAF disconnected to see if that improves it. If it does, it could just be making the engine run richer or leaner due to no MAF input, so it could cover another cause and its symptoms.

    Like MrShift says, look for youtube videos. There are lots of 3800's in various cars (I have owned 3) with similar layouts to yours, so an Impala 3800 youtube can help you see where things are and how to remove/replace them.

    Good luck.

    And if someone you know has a scanner, not just a code reader, that gives the engine coolant temperature that the computer is seeing, you could make sure it's getting the right temperature to adjust the mixture for starting. Some auto store might read it for you, BUT you want the temperature when the engine is cold overnight or cooled way down. The engine would be warmed up when you got to a store.

    I did have a box store locally that loaned out their reader. I think it was O"Reilly/Checkers. Might have been Autozone.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • william117william117 Member Posts: 2

    I have a 2006 Grand Prix GT that will suddenly stall out.  Starts out with a traction control and abs light then shuts off nearly immediately after with a electronic throttle control light.  Please help me.  No sensor codes for this dangerous problem 

    My first check would be the battery. I'd consider replacing it especially if it's a few years old. The aging battery may be dropping voltage and that low voltage causes odd reactions from various computers in the car. Then check connections at the battery and the ground cable on both ends. And try wiggling the posts on the battery with the engine running to see if there's a broken post.
    Replaced the battery but it didn't solve the problemI've also checked all the connections to and from the battery
  • jickmaggerjickmagger Member Posts: 1
    Is there a certain order to try different things to fix Grand Prix starting problems?
  • jessj1jessj1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have a pontiac grand prix gtp 97 the just idel on parking but when i put drives it just goes off and it shuts down its driving me crazy the code retrever just says tps/pedal position sensor a ckt range/perf i need help 
  • 01grandprixgt01grandprixgt Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 grand prix GT that has 191, 000 miles on it now. It will stall while Im driving. Right before it stalls the RPM gauge drops to zero and you can hear a clunking noise as the power is cut off from the fuel pump. Sometimes it will start right up after it stalls and other times engine has to cool off. Time it takes to start back up had gotten longer. I have abs light on all the time and trac off light that seems to come on right before it stalls. After researching this problem over many months it seems the abs module is sending information to the ECM that turns off my car. I pulled fuse 28 in the fuse box under the hood which disables the abs module completely and car runs better and dont have the starting problems any longer. However i will not have abs until I replace the abs module or repair the problem For now I can live without abs. Hope this helps some of you
  • bambi1973bambi1973 Member Posts: 2
    An easy fix for 2000 Grand Prix GT. I have noticed many with the same issues. This is what I have found. To fix those keys not coming out of ignition, sudden stalls, won't start, etc... it's all 1 common issue with these cars. In your center console, you need to remove this, there are wires that run from there to everything else. Fix the broken ones. I found "many" broken, taped, frayed wires, etc. Fixed them all and poof.. everything fixed! The Pontiac's are notorious for this issue and yet the mechanics we pay won't tell you this. I found this on accident and glad I did. Haven't had an issue with vehicle since. Good luck!
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    bambi1973 said:

    An easy fix for 2000 Grand Prix GT. I have noticed many with the same issues. This is what I have found. To fix those keys not coming out of ignition, sudden stalls, won't start, etc... it's all 1 common issue with these cars.

    It's great to try and help, but that's not accurate. There isn't just one thing that goes wrong that causes all of those issues. For example, there are pattern failures that occur with the wiring harness in-between the crank sensor and the ignition module, fuel pump and its circuit issues that cause stalls and a lot more.
    bambi1973 said:


    In your center console, you need to remove this, there are wires that run from there to everything else. Fix the broken ones. I found "many" broken, taped, frayed wires, etc. Fixed them all and poof.. everything fixed! The Pontiac's are notorious for this issue and yet the mechanics we pay won't tell you this. I found this on accident and glad I did. Haven't had an issue with vehicle since. Good luck!

    "Mechanics" don't tell people about a fix like this because again there is no single fix for all of the problems that can and do occur. Every car failure has to be analyzed as its own incident and assuming what solved any one, or even a group of cars has anything to do with the next leads to mistakes. Shift interlock issues are common and even with just them there isn't a single answer that is guaranteed to be the solution to someone else's car. For example, inoperative brake light switches, and/or broken wires to the brake light switch, and even issues with the steering column and the lock cylinder can also cause the inability to get the car into or out of park.
  • MelvislivesMelvislives Member Posts: 1
    I have also experienced stalling issues recently with my 2002 Grand Prix GT, I found out my Fuel lines, as well as my rear brake lines are so rusted, and corroded living in Northern Michigan due to salt, sand, and cold weather, that I am first going to check, and clean my Crank shaft position sensor connections, and clean them first, then will be checking my Mass Airflow sensors, and clean if needed, then I will be replacing both, break lines front to back, as well as my fuel lines, front to back. I just replaced all breaks, rotors, Calipers, drums, and pads, Bothy front sway bars, both front wheel bearing hubs, and ball joints. All new transmission lines and tires. Doing a lil at a time, because its Cheaper, and within a year, I might Put more than 3-$ 5,000 into it...But will endup with something more more dependable restored, than any other vehicle I could find for 3-$5,000 Used, and just buying someone else's problem/Problems, that will eventually Nickle and dime me to Death anyway!
  • the_33brainsthe_33brains Member Posts: 2
    sensor problems on 2003 Pontiac gran Prix GT. if it starts runs a bit then starts to seek idle up and down then dies .while engine died and key on GO and unplug your mass air flow sensor THEN restart . it will run in limp home mode. its not the mass air flow sensor. i'm researching where and why when it goes into close loop ( CL )
    it turns hieratic behavior . good luck to all
  • johnpnsyjohnpnsy Member Posts: 1
    2002 Grand Prix 3400 stalling periodically . No codes Goodyear just replaced the Vacuum solenoid purge valve and pipe . runs great
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    johnpnsy said:

    2002 Grand Prix 3400 stalling periodically . No codes Goodyear just replaced the Vacuum solenoid purge valve and pipe . runs great

    There are so many things... Don't just throw parts at it. When there is no code, the crankshaft position sensor of engines of that era were a problem. Look on internet to see if that was a frequent problem for that engine.

    My opinion is that engine is somewhat different than a 3800 or 3.1 engine. A neighbor had a Monte Carlo with one of those and my shadetree neighbor a couple houses up spent a lot of time trying to diagnose it. Replaced MAF or MAP and still didn't fix it. Finally a transmission shop guy fixed it--it went to the trans shop for the trans but the guy knew how to diagnose with his computers.

    Don't overlook the fuel pump. We had to push that car home from down the street and up the slight hill on driveway to get it in the neighbor's garage so neighbor could replace his own fuel pump. Twice during the time he had that car.

    IF I recall those engines operated at a higher fuel pressure than the lowly 3100 and 3800.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bigboy98bigboy98 Member Posts: 2
    I was on the highway near my home and my car started stalling. It was about to shut off at a red light so i shifted it to neutral and gave it some gas to prevent it from stalling. Thankfully i made it home! The engine was extremely hot but at the same time the radiator fan wasn't turning on. The car kept misfiring and the tailpipe exhaust smelt like unburnt gasoline. And the check engine light came on - P0300 - random misfires. After 2 days of diagnosis such as spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coils, cleaning the electronic throttle body: the issue turned out to be the ICM (ignition control module or also called distributor) that is mounted right below the ignition coil packs. It's the most odd issue that car has ever given me and took me two days to figure out.

    I was just adding this comment here so that if anyone else comes across similar symptoms, don't rule out the ICM. The junkyard sold me one for $30 that fixed up the issue! Diagnosing random misfires is sooooo hard! Check this out if anyone else comes across the issue: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ignition-module-and-crank-sensor-test-1
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    If the engine was hot, meaning the temperature gauge was running higher than it normally runs under similar conditions, you may want to check to see if the radiator fan or fans are turning on correctly.

    A first test is to see if they turn on when the AC is turned on when the outside temp is above 60 and the compressor engages.

    You may have sensed the engine is very hot because the misfiring was causing the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter to run hotter than normal, and you're smelling that due to the high temp there.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • m_d_v_5_1_7m_d_v_5_1_7 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2020
    ok guys. need help. have 02 grand prix gt. recently it started dieing on me random after i would start moving. and that got worse as in crank backfire like a shot gun may or may not start, tray again crank,crank crank start drive dies 3 times and runs good all day. but now crank and just a shot gun of a backfire no start. also after cranking ill leave the key in the ignition to the on position and the thing does like a chug and or a backfire.OMG please help new parts also ,coils,plugs wires,crank sensor,ICM, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pump. please email at


    THANK YOU
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