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I'm not sure if this is 100% but for the past week I have had it under half tank of gas and no issues what so ever you could step on the gas and no choking nothing but then I filled it last night and it started choking and stalling again. When it was doing it originally I had 3/4 of a tank. I just bought this car 2 weeks ago. When i drove it home had about 1/4 tank of gas and no issue at all. So I'm not sure if im just nuts in thinking gas has anything to do with it or not. Any advice tips or any information would be greatly appreciated! !!
You don't have to get an original GM part but stay away from re-manufactured parts, I had to get a new non GM part. It solved the problems I was having which were very similar.
Good luck!
I've also got a My 2001 Grand Prix GT has been "fixed" three times by a previous owners, and it stills stalls out on the hiway randomly. Now normally, I'd just assume the problem was unrelated to whatever the mechanics fixed (i.e. MAF, cam and crank position sensors, PVC valve, mapping sensor were replaced before I got this car). Also the security feature suggested if it's actually the security system that randomly engaging. The 1997-2003 Grand Prix with an alarm system ( there is a 3 on the Key to see this) have a Passkey III immobilizer-type setup that cuts power to the fuel pump and starter. To check for this when your car is stalled turn it to the accessory mode for 10min then to the off mode and it should start if it is the key..
This is EXACTLY what happens when it stalls out; the car will just suddenly die, with no warning at all except a shudder, and the "low oil pressure" and "low voltage" warning lights on the dash come on. When you try to restart, the fuel pump doesn't consistently engage, as if it's still trying to immobilize the car. I need to take the battery cable off wait and it seems to rest the computer...
Please Help me i found that many people have this problem and the scrap yard is full of these cars...
Ok, let me give you the back story...
-Bout 8 months ago i gave my buddy my park avenue to swap motors into a Grand Prix GT i picked up with a blown motor. L67, Gen V, 1.85YT, SD Headers, 75 shot N2O, etc, etc
-I believe that he took my motor and put it in his Impala, which is a story i'll save for later. Which i believe he top swapped his motor and put it in my car and dropped the complete L67 block in his. Makes it worse because i helped him find the parts to do it.
-Guy on the forum tuned my PCM for these particular parts, which apparently i no longer have. Now since i started driving the car i put it on the highway like on my way to work and it randomly stalls out. No matter the time of day and no warning signs. RPM's dont drop fast but gradually fall back to zero.
-I have replaced MAF, plugs, IAC, ICM, Coil packs, BBV, vac lines.
-He did put on my SSIC, but knows if he did it right and swapped my pulley down to a 3.25. I did not buy the swap kit from zzp, so he spliced the wires for the map sensor, could they be wired up wrong?
On the streets the it runs ok, it doesnt stall out at all. On the highway which is how i get to work is my issue. Out of nowhere and boom dead. It does however start back up immediately.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
I have a 2006 Grand Prix GT that will suddenly stall out. Starts out with a traction control and abs light then shuts off nearly immediately after with a electronic throttle control light. Please help me. No sensor codes for this dangerous problem
The aging battery may be dropping voltage and that low voltage causes odd reactions from various computers in the car. Then check connections at the battery and the ground cable on both ends. And try wiggling the posts on the battery with the engine running to see if there's a broken post.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You might try removing the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator, on the fuel line on the front of the engine. Let the engine run for several minutes and see if any gasoline starts coming out of the vacuum opening in the FPR due to a ruptured diaphragm. That might let extra fuel into the vacuum line and the engine at startup after it's shut off. The extra fuel in the line and manifold makes it a little too rich, requiring extra speed and air to slurp it into the cylinders without drowning the motor at first.
You might try cleaning the idle air valve, which is right there on the throttle body with the MAF and the throttle position sensor. It's held on my two screws. Do not immerse to clean, just rub and brush. Clean with appropriate cleaner on the end, and clean the opening into the throttle body. I've read of one of those being gunked up with the blow back carbon and not letting enough air through that bypasses the throttle butterfly plate. Also could be related to the oil gunk that collects on the inside of the throttle body and keeps the butterfly from opening easily when first started up. You have to push a little harder: the engine cools and the throttle body shrinks against the butterfly. To move the throttle plate with the accelerator, you have to scrape through the goop that collects on the inside when the engine is shut off from the oil vapor in the engine. Usually it only gives resistance that first time it's moved after sitting for hours.
You might try starting the engine with the MAF disconnected to see if that improves it. If it does, it could just be making the engine run richer or leaner due to no MAF input, so it could cover another cause and its symptoms.
Like MrShift says, look for youtube videos. There are lots of 3800's in various cars (I have owned 3) with similar layouts to yours, so an Impala 3800 youtube can help you see where things are and how to remove/replace them.
Good luck.
And if someone you know has a scanner, not just a code reader, that gives the engine coolant temperature that the computer is seeing, you could make sure it's getting the right temperature to adjust the mixture for starting. Some auto store might read it for you, BUT you want the temperature when the engine is cold overnight or cooled way down. The engine would be warmed up when you got to a store.
I did have a box store locally that loaned out their reader. I think it was O"Reilly/Checkers. Might have been Autozone.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
it turns hieratic behavior . good luck to all
My opinion is that engine is somewhat different than a 3800 or 3.1 engine. A neighbor had a Monte Carlo with one of those and my shadetree neighbor a couple houses up spent a lot of time trying to diagnose it. Replaced MAF or MAP and still didn't fix it. Finally a transmission shop guy fixed it--it went to the trans shop for the trans but the guy knew how to diagnose with his computers.
Don't overlook the fuel pump. We had to push that car home from down the street and up the slight hill on driveway to get it in the neighbor's garage so neighbor could replace his own fuel pump. Twice during the time he had that car.
IF I recall those engines operated at a higher fuel pressure than the lowly 3100 and 3800.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I was just adding this comment here so that if anyone else comes across similar symptoms, don't rule out the ICM. The junkyard sold me one for $30 that fixed up the issue! Diagnosing random misfires is sooooo hard! Check this out if anyone else comes across the issue: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ignition-module-and-crank-sensor-test-1
A first test is to see if they turn on when the AC is turned on when the outside temp is above 60 and the compressor engages.
You may have sensed the engine is very hot because the misfiring was causing the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter to run hotter than normal, and you're smelling that due to the high temp there.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
THANK YOU