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also when before i come to a start it makes a buzzing sound and sounds like the transmission is reving down. the best way to describe it is something winding down even though the car is stopped . could of be the drive tran? ior maby the air intake acting weird. No problems with the gear except when i drive in 1st and press the gas to go the stick moves back, kinda wierd. no problems with hesitation or anything like that. :confuse:
Most of the time shifting from 1st to neutral is nice and smooth, sometimes there is slight resistance in moving out of 1st, but occasionally the lever seems almost eager to get out of 1st as if its sprung loaded and it comes out with a thump. Was told by Honda that it was due to engine torque, but it happens at any rpm. low or high when I would have thought torque could have an effect, and why only me? May not happen for a few days, but then have a bad shift three or four times in a row, almost as if tension is being built up, and is then released suddenly.Can't produce this effect to order, and am careful in changing gear. The gear change linkage has been replaced and adjusted to no avail. Now out of guarantee and I fear a hefty bill in the future! Only happens coming out of 1st. gear. No noise from the box, just that of the leaver thumping to a halt in neutral.
THX bunches
I just took it to the Honda dealer and paid them $95 to check out the problem but im a little leery of honesty with what they will tell me. just thought i would see if anyone has or has had or knows about this issue, thanks
The best way to trouble shoot this, is to take off the accessory belt, and then start the engine for a short period of time and verify that the noise is no longer present. If by some chance the noise continues, then your problem is in your engine or transmission, and you need to get it looked at quickly.
Assuming the noise stops, then turn off the engine, and carefully turn each of the accessories by hand, feeling for binding or wobbly pulleys. It's usually pretty easy to feel which device is the problem, then you can replace that specific accessory or pulley.
To the OP, ummm, don't mind me. :P
Best Regards,
Shipo
Carry on, shipo... we love ya anyway.
TheGrad
Best regards,
TheGrad
just wondering do all civics shift as hard as mine??
when i'm driving it lunges forward violently...and also when stopping it kinda jumps too, just wondering if it had anything to do with the transmission??
much help needed.
the fuel gauge goes down everytime i accelerate, and when in constant speed it goes back up.
**it only goes down when tank has less than 1/2**
Recently, I've noticed that when my A/C is turned on, when the car downshifts from 3rd to 2nd gear at slower speeds (RPM tachs around 2-3.5k) there's a screeching sound for 2-3 seconds. This only happens when the A/C is on, otherwise I don't notice an issue. I've checked the Auto Trans fluid and coolant levels, brake levels, power steering levels, oil level, tire pressure, all seems well.
I mentioned this at work and someone said this could possibly be the timing belt/water pump rather than the transmission, which was my main concern.
Your thoughts? I love my car, and I'd hate to get rid of it, but for 700 I can buy a new car and have 2 months worth of payment. Civic's been good to me thus far aside from an Oxygen Sensor when it was 4 years old, but I'm worried other stuff is going to start going and repairs will just get more costly.
While you're reading, does anyone else notice that the 30 psi for front & 29 psi for rear tires seems "under inflated"? Tires seem flat and lumpy, especially the front, checked with both a digital and analog tire gauge while the tires are cold (driven than less than 1/10 mile) but they say it's spot-on 30 psi.
Will the dealers "deduct" trade-in value if the Timing Belt/Water Pump service hasn't been performed?
I'd be doing the major maintenance, even if it costs you 700-1000 bucks. That's a lot cheaper than committing yourself to 36 - 60 month payment stream.
You can do a LOT of maintenance and still be way below a new car payment, also have cheaper insurance costs.
They'll probably give you nothing extra for trade in whether you do the maintenance or not.....unless you sell outright and the buyer values that in some manner.
In order to avoid seemingly high labor cost, I took it to a local shop that I've had nothing but good things to say about other cars, perhaps the reason they were significantly cheaper was because they skimped on things like tensioners, etc.
This squeal seems to also happen often after it's rained, or if there's visible moisture (heavy fog, etc.), like there's condensation on whatever moving part it is that's squeaking.
Funny thing is, one squeak and it's gone for the rest of my ride.
I love my Civic, especially in times of higher fuel costs, but I think a Subaru Legacy might be a better fit for me - the 2000 Civic is quite behind the times in terms of technology - no ABS, rear drum brakes, no VDC/ASR, no side airbags, no moonroof (in my LX), no power seats, no CD changer, etc.
That being said though, the sticker for a new Legacy is about 3000 to 4000 more than a new Civic, but the big selling point on the Subarus is the standard Symmetrical All Wheel Drive - and since my job requires me to be there when the state closes the roads (essential personnel!), I need a car that can get me there.
I understand your point of it being an interference engine - and I've done my research, it is.
Ok, I think I'll trade it in now and pick up the 2009 Subaru Legacy. Thanks for the replies.
Thanks
When operating under the normal schedule, it's 10 years or 105,000 miles - so I'm still good to go for another 20k!
Thanks for the thoughts, (still getting rid of the car for a Subaru, though!)
Pilot
And now for el problemo. Couple of wks ago as i am heading out for work, i go to turn on my A/C and low and behold, the fan blower is not blowing at all!! It's like it thinks it's on summer vacation.(of course this happens 2 days before my wife and i are moving) Anyways, i am melting and hope someone can point a "what's mechanically inclined" person like myself in the right diy direction.
Thanks everyone. :confuse:
Then I'd check to see if the problem exists in both heater mode, and a/c mode.
Then check to see if it exists in all speeds of the blower fan.
Don't know specifically for your model vehicle, but there is usually a resistor bank in the blower plenum, right near the blower motor. That resistor bank, is what drops the voltage for the blower motor, allowing a single 12volt dc motor to run at the different high/med/low speeds. You can usually find this, by looking for the blower motor itself (in most cars it's up under the dash on the passenger side), and then look for a set of wires going into the air plenum right at the outer edge of where the squirrel cage would be. This resistor bank is put in the plenum, because the resistors get hot as they drop the voltage, and it needs the air flow from the blower motor to cool them or they'll burn out.
But check the other things first.
The car has 118K miles on it. While test driving it, the car didn't make a single aching sound or staggered or showed any other problem. Everyything looked, sounded, smelled good about it.
Now my question is, should I worry about anything else before buying this car? I mean is it a good idea to buy this car?
The mechanic is asking for US$5600. The KBB also had more or less the same price for that car.
Any suggestions or advices?
They all need these after a while from the old to the newer civics. It keeps your steering and front end nice and tight like when it was new. The LX also has a rear sway bar which is similar to the SI suspension. Better for handling. If the car has been driven in salty roads, the have a tendency to let go after 100k. Again, not only the 02 but the older and newer models will need these at one point.
Once these have been done, you are good for another five years or so depending on your driving.
I would buy it. Great little car.
2000 Honda Civic LX Sedan, Automatic Transmission. Maintance performed regularly and on schedule, accessory belts have been replaced about a year and a half ago.
Occasionally when the car is being driven on the harder side (RPM's between 3-5k) *and* the A/C is being run, there's a squeaking sounds that happens for about a half a second as I feel the compressor kick on for the A/C.
It's still an intermittent problem, but it seems only to happen when the A/C is running and I'm driving my car moderately harder than normal. I've been driving easier on it when the A/C is on (2-3.5k RPM) and the problem hasn't resurfaced.
The fan is continuing to run, and the air still continues to come out cold. I'm wondering if it's the tension of the compressor belt, but I can't find anything in the owner's manual reference the correct force to ask a mechanic to check/correct it.
Is there a lot of labor involved into getting into the compressor belt?
Thanks
If you look at all of the pulleys, one is spring mounted tensioner, which keeps the tension on the belt and prevents slippage. Usually you will find a wrench attachment, or a slot for a large screwdriver, or a 3/8(1/2") square socket drive hole. I don't know the specifics for your vehicle. You slowly pull back on the tensioner (take the pressure off the belt), slide the belt off on one of the pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner (do not allow it to snap back by itself). These springs are heavy duty, so whatever your tool, it's easier with a long handle for leverage and control.
Make note of the routing of the belt, usually there is a graphic under the hood. Take the old belt off, put the new belt on, pull back on the tensioner, slide the belt back in under the tensioner pulley, and slowly release the tensioner again.
Belts usually run about 20-40 bucks at auto parts stores, and almost any shop will change this for you including oil change shops.
Note: The tensioner itself is also known to go bad. When these go bad they'll either squeak, or they won't provide enough tension to the belt....thereby allowing the belt to slip. These are usually just bolt on, if you need to replace this. Sometimes it is easier to get to the bolts via the right wheel well.
Maybe when the shop changed the belts a year or two ago they accidentally let it "slip back" like you described and damaged the tensioner.
Having issues with the speedometer. Turned it on yesterday to drive home from work and it pegged itself at 20mph. I turned the car off and on again and it returned to the normal 0mph setting.
This morning on the way to work it again was pegged at 20. I turned the car off and on a few times, waiting a few minutes in between attempts, and the speedometer remained pegged at 20.
I drove on this (no malfunction indicator lights appeared) and noticed the following:
- Seemingly slower than 20mph, the speedometer flickers up and down from 10mph to 30mph quickly.
- As you approach/surpass 20mph, the speedometer stays at 20 with no movement.
- The trip counter and odometer does not roll while the speedometer is pegged.
I stopped to get gas in the morning, and upon restart, it was still at 20. I hit the trip counter to reset the dial, and the speedometer dropped to 0. No mileage rolled over from the ~1.5 miles I drove to the nearest gas station, and the speedometer started working appropriately (along with trip & odometer).
Three questions:
1. What's the best way to troubleshoot this issue? Could the trip odometer be getting "stuck" on some speedometer dial?
2. I recently had my car serviced (oil lube & filter), is it possible the mechanic could have tampered with the speedometer and associated wires?
3. Do I need to declare anything with DMV regarding the mileage that accumulated that did not roll on the odometer?
Thanks
Apparantely nobody who knows the details of Honda Civic has answered this yet, so I'll take a crack to maybe help a little. Sorry I don't know the specifics for your vehicle.
The engine is a single overhead cam, which means you have one cam w/sits on top of the engine. The belt or chain which drives that cam, would be enclosed by a casing (it's not the accessory belt/pulleys on the outside of the engine). That cam runs along the top of the engine, so the sensor could be anywhere along the top of the engine, but I would think most likely on one of the ends.
In a Toyota, it's on the end by the transmission on the drivers side, furthest away from the accessory belt and pulleys This sensor is going to be reading the pulses from the camshaft as it's turning, so expect to see it in position perpendicular and 'pointing at' the center line of the camshaft. You may have other sensors in that area as well, for instance a knock sensor, or engine coolant sensor (which you would expect to see in the block where the coolant is).
One way I use to troubleshoot this, is to try driving your vehicle with the cruise control. If the cruise control holds the correct speed, then in high likelihood the sensor is okay, and the computer is okay, and the problem is in your display. If the vehicle doesn't hold on cruise, then it's either the sensor or computer, and I'd suspect the sensor.
No you don't have to report anything to DMV.
The oil change might have bumped the wiring to the sensor.
Picture of entire hood:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0328.jpg
Upper right corner close up:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0329.jpg
Lower right corner close up: (the cylindrical thing in the main frame appears to be the cruise control actuator, there's a sticker on it.)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0330.jpg
Close up of upper left corner behind air filter:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0331.jpg
Bottom left corner:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0332.jpg
Speedometer display at 20mph (car in ACC/ON, in park)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0327.jpg
The transmission is at the left end of the engine (looking at your picture), then has axles going out to the wheels. It's on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
I'll scan a couple files that I have, to see if I have a picture.
BTW, you should clean that corrosion off your positive battery terminal. Water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, then cover it with a light coating of petroleum jelly or grease.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0330.jpg
Interesting. I'll take it for a quick spin and check the cruise control, back in 15 minutes. Thanks for the response.
95 Civic
No that last picture is not your transmission. I realize I said the left side of your engine, and that may be confusing. It's on the left side as looking at your picture, it's actually the passenger side of the engine.
The engine output shaft, is bolted to the transmission, which then thru the half shaft axles drives the power out to the wheels.You'll have to get deeper down into the engine compartment.
Just stressed her out by driving from Austin to Colorado so i'm not sure!
Please help!!
All of the things you mention 'could' be the source of your problem.....or they could be just fine and it could be something else. We don't know the maintenance that you've done in the past, which would help a garage determine what the problem might be. If you told me you replaced your plugs 2 years ago and have 12K on the new ones, I'd think the plugs might not be the source of the problem but I'd want to pull them and look at how they were burning to see if a clue there. If on the other hand you tell me you've never changed the plugs and have 150K on them....I'd tell you to go replace the plugs as they are long overdue.
So, I took it for a spin today and the first time at startup, the problem didn't happen.
The second time, it locked on startup at the usual 20 mph, then after about 1/4 mile of driving it dropped to 0 mph and then picked up after my next stop.
Just now, it stayed at 20mph for the entire duration (about 10 minutes) of driving. I successfully used Cruise Control at a speed above the 20 mph (Honda's Cruise won't click on until you're above 25mph, too), give or take around 40 mph.
So, we know that Cruise Control is recognizing that I'm driving faster than 25. What's the next move? I took a peek under the hood to look for the thing you linked, but when I zoomed in I wasn't able to figure out what was what.