Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

1246789

Comments

  • thewishdoctorthewishdoctor Member Posts: 2
    hey i just got a 1997 honda civic 164,000mi manuel 5 spd , the guy i got it from put a custom air intake in it and an exhaust. it sounds ok, but when after i got it when i first drive it on a normal warm day depending on how far i press the gas pedal its when it squeels. i can control it by either pushing the gas pedal farther or more less, just kind of ackward. thought it may be the air intake for abit, but it appears in good shape.

    also when before i come to a start it makes a buzzing sound and sounds like the transmission is reving down. the best way to describe it is something winding down even though the car is stopped . could of be the drive tran? ior maby the air intake acting weird. No problems with the gear except when i drive in 1st and press the gas to go the stick moves back, kinda wierd. no problems with hesitation or anything like that. :confuse:
  • vadidvadid Member Posts: 1
    04 Honda Civic SE. 23000 miles, manual shift from 1st to neutral goes with a clunk!

    Most of the time shifting from 1st to neutral is nice and smooth, sometimes there is slight resistance in moving out of 1st, but occasionally the lever seems almost eager to get out of 1st as if its sprung loaded and it comes out with a thump. Was told by Honda that it was due to engine torque, but it happens at any rpm. low or high when I would have thought torque could have an effect, and why only me? May not happen for a few days, but then have a bad shift three or four times in a row, almost as if tension is being built up, and is then released suddenly.Can't produce this effect to order, and am careful in changing gear. The gear change linkage has been replaced and adjusted to no avail. Now out of guarantee and I fear a hefty bill in the future! Only happens coming out of 1st. gear. No noise from the box, just that of the leaver thumping to a halt in neutral.
  • trevorjctrevorjc Member Posts: 1
    Recently I was installing an after market cd player in my 2001 Honda Civic and some wires touched. Now the radio does not work, and the power door locks and dome light only work when the car is on. But it only unlock, not lock. Also when I start the car the gauges jump up and down a little for about 3 sec. And when I turn the car off the gauges stay where they were when I started the car. And the remote to the alarm does not work anymore and I have checked all the fuses in the fuse box under the dash and under the hood and they turned out fine. Can someone please help me with this issue?
  • thewishdoctorthewishdoctor Member Posts: 2
    im getting a wierd noise when my 5spd 1997 honda civic is in neutral. when i shift into 1st or any gear it goes away. also when i press the gas about half way i get a squeeling. but when pressed alittle or alot its not present. please gime ahand , im stumped .

    THX bunches :cry:
  • amonslowamonslow Member Posts: 1
    i have a 91 Honda civic i just bought. it seems to run nice and cool driving around town. i can drive 70 no problem. When i drive at a constant incline uphill it seems to overheat. i just replaced the thermostat and temp sending unit. there isn't any oil or anything in the coolant and there is no milky substances in the oil. there is no white smoke coming from tail pipe. i did notice the coolant in the reservoir to be missing a little bit though. i was just wondering if you think its the water pump or could it be a head gasket?

    I just took it to the Honda dealer and paid them $95 to check out the problem but im a little leery of honesty with what they will tell me. just thought i would see if anyone has or has had or knows about this issue, thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be a number of things, but I would suspect that one of the accessories or pulleys on your engine has a bearing going bad.

    The best way to trouble shoot this, is to take off the accessory belt, and then start the engine for a short period of time and verify that the noise is no longer present. If by some chance the noise continues, then your problem is in your engine or transmission, and you need to get it looked at quickly.

    Assuming the noise stops, then turn off the engine, and carefully turn each of the accessories by hand, feeling for binding or wobbly pulleys. It's usually pretty easy to feel which device is the problem, then you can replace that specific accessory or pulley.
  • jjart23jjart23 Member Posts: 1
    I am having some problems. I have been unable to locate a fuel filter for my Civic EX. I know that i am still green when it comes to owning a Honda but i know what a fuel filter looks like. Can someone out there help me by letting me know where this is located at. The only other thing that i can guess is that it is in the Fuel Tank
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    It's on the left rear quarterpanel just above the left rear wheel.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Fuel F-I-L-T-E-R or F-I-L-L-E-R?

    ;)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Oh geez, my bad. I guess that cataract in my right eye is giving me more problems than I thought. :blush:

    To the OP, ummm, don't mind me. :P

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Haha, its no problem. I thought I had gone stupid about where the fuel filter was. I don't know exactly, but I didn't think it was near the filler door! :)

    Carry on, shipo... we love ya anyway. ;)

    TheGrad
  • winsanwinsan Member Posts: 36
    One day I started my 03 civic, drove it for a while (5-10 mins), before I realized that the console didn't work: the speedometer, tachometer, temp, and fuel gauge needles didn't move. However, the car ran well. I freaked out. I stopped in a parking lot, shutdown the car, wait for a minute, and turn it on again. The problem went away, and I've never had that problem again. Anybody has had this? :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Can't say that I can help you with your issue, but should it happen again, make sure you tell them that your "gauge cluster" or "instrument panel" isn't working, not your console. When referring to the console, most think of the storage unit/armrest area between the front seats. Just thought I'd share that tip so that they don't look at you funny! ;)

    Best regards,

    TheGrad
  • herman2k7herman2k7 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 95' civic DX 133,000 miles automatic.
    just wondering do all civics shift as hard as mine??
    when i'm driving it lunges forward violently...and also when stopping it kinda jumps too, just wondering if it had anything to do with the transmission??
    much help needed.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    Those batteries can be a bummer. This Question isn't pertinent to your problem but couldn't get the question out any other way. Did Honda make the Civic HX after the year model 2000?? I haven't seen any references to a 2001 or later HX so you guru's on Honda products please let all know if they did?? I notice there are several references to 5-speed tranny problems with these older Civics. Were the automatics any better?? :confuse: :confuse:
  • herman2k7herman2k7 Member Posts: 4
    my 95 honda civic automatic.
    the fuel gauge goes down everytime i accelerate, and when in constant speed it goes back up.
    **it only goes down when tank has less than 1/2**
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    How far down does it drop? In both of my Accords the gauge adjusts slightly depending on if I'm braking on a downhill portion, moving the gas to the front of the tank. It may move as much as 1/15th of the full gauge range (enough to be noticeable, but not drastically).
  • hammy917hammy917 Member Posts: 1
    I just recently bought a 2003 civic 2d coupe and after driving it for a few days i realized that the button on my automatic shifter is a non factor. Meaning i can change gears at anytime without using the button. This is scary because i could possibly put the vechile in reverse or pack while driving down the road and that would not be pretty. I'm a college student on a limited income, so i was wondering if anyone knows what to do/check before i take it to the dealer and pay 90 bucks just for them to look at it.
  • nflroyaltynflroyalty Member Posts: 10
    i have a 05 hx, the last year of production
  • ibflossingibflossing Member Posts: 7
    How much should I gap the spark plugs on a honda civic EX 2004 (4 cylinder) ?? Thanks
  • hc99hc99 Member Posts: 1
    i am having the exact same problem with my 99 civic. it seems that the car is in neu">tral when i am driving. it has been wasting alot of gas lately. they have told me that the rpm needs to be fixed, but i haven't taken it to the shop yet. i actually had all the ac system replaced because the ac was not cooling and it still doesn't seem too cool, but after they replaced all the ac now it is having this problem. If i turn of the ac the car seems to work fine. hoping someone can tell me more about this problem.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Hiya, I have a 2000 Civic LX Sedan with about 87k miles on it. I put off the timing belt replacement because the dealer recommends it at 60k, and in my opinion that's too early to dish out money for a 700 dollar service (to replace the 3 belts, timing belt, water pump).

    Recently, I've noticed that when my A/C is turned on, when the car downshifts from 3rd to 2nd gear at slower speeds (RPM tachs around 2-3.5k) there's a screeching sound for 2-3 seconds. This only happens when the A/C is on, otherwise I don't notice an issue. I've checked the Auto Trans fluid and coolant levels, brake levels, power steering levels, oil level, tire pressure, all seems well.

    I mentioned this at work and someone said this could possibly be the timing belt/water pump rather than the transmission, which was my main concern.

    Your thoughts? I love my car, and I'd hate to get rid of it, but for 700 I can buy a new car and have 2 months worth of payment. Civic's been good to me thus far aside from an Oxygen Sensor when it was 4 years old, but I'm worried other stuff is going to start going and repairs will just get more costly.

    While you're reading, does anyone else notice that the 30 psi for front & 29 psi for rear tires seems "under inflated"? Tires seem flat and lumpy, especially the front, checked with both a digital and analog tire gauge while the tires are cold (driven than less than 1/10 mile) but they say it's spot-on 30 psi.

    Will the dealers "deduct" trade-in value if the Timing Belt/Water Pump service hasn't been performed?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd guess the screeching is just from the regular accessory belt, not the timing belt. Would be very old if you've never replaced that belt, or a weak tensioner which isn't keeping the belt tight enough.

    I'd be doing the major maintenance, even if it costs you 700-1000 bucks. That's a lot cheaper than committing yourself to 36 - 60 month payment stream.

    You can do a LOT of maintenance and still be way below a new car payment, also have cheaper insurance costs.

    They'll probably give you nothing extra for trade in whether you do the maintenance or not.....unless you sell outright and the buyer values that in some manner.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Well, I had the three belts replaced about a year ago when I also replaced the distributor. I don't know if that service would also replace the tensioner or not. I guess I can upload the invoice from the shop.

    In order to avoid seemingly high labor cost, I took it to a local shop that I've had nothing but good things to say about other cars, perhaps the reason they were significantly cheaper was because they skimped on things like tensioners, etc.

    This squeal seems to also happen often after it's rained, or if there's visible moisture (heavy fog, etc.), like there's condensation on whatever moving part it is that's squeaking.

    Funny thing is, one squeak and it's gone for the rest of my ride.

    I love my Civic, especially in times of higher fuel costs, but I think a Subaru Legacy might be a better fit for me - the 2000 Civic is quite behind the times in terms of technology - no ABS, rear drum brakes, no VDC/ASR, no side airbags, no moonroof (in my LX), no power seats, no CD changer, etc.

    That being said though, the sticker for a new Legacy is about 3000 to 4000 more than a new Civic, but the big selling point on the Subarus is the standard Symmetrical All Wheel Drive - and since my job requires me to be there when the state closes the roads (essential personnel!), I need a car that can get me there.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    There are NO symptoms prior to a timing belt failure. One second you will be driving down the road and the next you will find yourself sitting in the berm...stopped. If the Honda is an "interference" engine (as I think it is) a timing belt failure at speed will probably destroy your engine. So, whatever you do ignore Honda's replacement requirement mileage, keep driving it as-is because "in your opinion that's too early to dish out money" and pat yourself on the back for out-thinking the engineers who determined that requirement and ignore it further...the $700.00 for that service will look cheap compared to an engine rebuild or replacement. "Pay me now or pay me later " is all too true.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    The problem with the mileage is that it's inconsistent. The Honda Owner's Link says one thing, the manual says something else, the dealer service says something else, and everything on the web says something else. So, I have no idea which to go on.

    I understand your point of it being an interference engine - and I've done my research, it is.

    Ok, I think I'll trade it in now and pick up the 2009 Subaru Legacy. Thanks for the replies.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'd go with the owner's manual first and foremost.
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Your best bet would be to call the dealership. They've given me answers to such questions in the past.
  • remjremj Member Posts: 1
    Passenger door lock was working, then worked poorly, then stopped. Was suggested that is it the solenoid. Does that sound coorect? If so, can anyone tell me approx. where it is located.

    Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The actuator failed on my rear door lock in my '96 Accord; it makes a whining noise, and no longer goes up and down. Could be the actuator?
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks. I recently was reading over the owner's manual again and noticed that there's two schedules. I'd always known this, and I've been following the NORMAL operating schedule, but apparently I just turned the page and didn't notice that during SEVERE operating, you should replace it at 60k.

    When operating under the normal schedule, it's 10 years or 105,000 miles - so I'm still good to go for another 20k!

    Thanks for the thoughts, (still getting rid of the car for a Subaru, though!)
    Pilot
  • pav1pav1 Member Posts: 1
    First off, I am the new guy, so hi to everyone.

    And now for el problemo. Couple of wks ago as i am heading out for work, i go to turn on my A/C and low and behold, the fan blower is not blowing at all!! It's like it thinks it's on summer vacation.(of course this happens 2 days before my wife and i are moving) Anyways, i am melting and hope someone can point a "what's mechanically inclined" person like myself in the right diy direction.

    Thanks everyone. :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well first thing to do, is to check the fuse.

    Then I'd check to see if the problem exists in both heater mode, and a/c mode.

    Then check to see if it exists in all speeds of the blower fan.

    Don't know specifically for your model vehicle, but there is usually a resistor bank in the blower plenum, right near the blower motor. That resistor bank, is what drops the voltage for the blower motor, allowing a single 12volt dc motor to run at the different high/med/low speeds. You can usually find this, by looking for the blower motor itself (in most cars it's up under the dash on the passenger side), and then look for a set of wires going into the air plenum right at the outer edge of where the squirrel cage would be. This resistor bank is put in the plenum, because the resistors get hot as they drop the voltage, and it needs the air flow from the blower motor to cool them or they'll burn out.

    But check the other things first.
  • phantomsmokesphantomsmokes Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I'm planning on buying a Honda Civic 2002. However, yesterday, my dad talked to the mechanic - Dad's good friend and very reliable - and he said that he is working on the timing belt.
    The car has 118K miles on it. While test driving it, the car didn't make a single aching sound or staggered or showed any other problem. Everyything looked, sounded, smelled good about it.

    Now my question is, should I worry about anything else before buying this car? I mean is it a good idea to buy this car?
    The mechanic is asking for US$5600. The KBB also had more or less the same price for that car.

    Any suggestions or advices?
  • jonesbb630jonesbb630 Member Posts: 31
    I had an 02 LX Coupe, and frankly, it was one of the most leliable cars I ver owned. Yes, don't take chances on the T Belt. Change it. Better safe than sorry. The only other thing you need to worry about is the inner and outer front and back bushings. They are not expansive. Labor will cost more than parts(approx 1.5hrs)
    They all need these after a while from the old to the newer civics. It keeps your steering and front end nice and tight like when it was new. The LX also has a rear sway bar which is similar to the SI suspension. Better for handling. If the car has been driven in salty roads, the have a tendency to let go after 100k. Again, not only the 02 but the older and newer models will need these at one point.

    Once these have been done, you are good for another five years or so depending on your driving.

    I would buy it. Great little car.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    I've noticed for some time now that there's an intermittent squeaking sound that originates under the hood, and after a year of researching, I think I might have finally put the pieces together.

    2000 Honda Civic LX Sedan, Automatic Transmission. Maintance performed regularly and on schedule, accessory belts have been replaced about a year and a half ago.

    Occasionally when the car is being driven on the harder side (RPM's between 3-5k) *and* the A/C is being run, there's a squeaking sounds that happens for about a half a second as I feel the compressor kick on for the A/C.

    It's still an intermittent problem, but it seems only to happen when the A/C is running and I'm driving my car moderately harder than normal. I've been driving easier on it when the A/C is on (2-3.5k RPM) and the problem hasn't resurfaced.

    The fan is continuing to run, and the air still continues to come out cold. I'm wondering if it's the tension of the compressor belt, but I can't find anything in the owner's manual reference the correct force to ask a mechanic to check/correct it.

    Is there a lot of labor involved into getting into the compressor belt?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Most all compressor belts are very easily changed. I haven't had one of my own that has taken more than 15 minutes in years.

    If you look at all of the pulleys, one is spring mounted tensioner, which keeps the tension on the belt and prevents slippage. Usually you will find a wrench attachment, or a slot for a large screwdriver, or a 3/8(1/2") square socket drive hole. I don't know the specifics for your vehicle. You slowly pull back on the tensioner (take the pressure off the belt), slide the belt off on one of the pulleys, and slowly release the tensioner (do not allow it to snap back by itself). These springs are heavy duty, so whatever your tool, it's easier with a long handle for leverage and control.

    Make note of the routing of the belt, usually there is a graphic under the hood. Take the old belt off, put the new belt on, pull back on the tensioner, slide the belt back in under the tensioner pulley, and slowly release the tensioner again.

    Belts usually run about 20-40 bucks at auto parts stores, and almost any shop will change this for you including oil change shops.

    Note: The tensioner itself is also known to go bad. When these go bad they'll either squeak, or they won't provide enough tension to the belt....thereby allowing the belt to slip. These are usually just bolt on, if you need to replace this. Sometimes it is easier to get to the bolts via the right wheel well.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks for the response. I live in a condominium so do-it-yourself is considerably limited and frowned upon by the association, but I'll see what I can do. I'm up for an oil change in the next week or two so I'll have them take a peek.

    Maybe when the shop changed the belts a year or two ago they accidentally let it "slip back" like you described and damaged the tensioner.
  • poysn1poysn1 Member Posts: 4
    where do i find it on an 05 civic ex?? please help...
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    2000 Honda Civic LX Sedan

    Having issues with the speedometer. Turned it on yesterday to drive home from work and it pegged itself at 20mph. I turned the car off and on again and it returned to the normal 0mph setting.

    This morning on the way to work it again was pegged at 20. I turned the car off and on a few times, waiting a few minutes in between attempts, and the speedometer remained pegged at 20.

    I drove on this (no malfunction indicator lights appeared) and noticed the following:
    - Seemingly slower than 20mph, the speedometer flickers up and down from 10mph to 30mph quickly.
    - As you approach/surpass 20mph, the speedometer stays at 20 with no movement.
    - The trip counter and odometer does not roll while the speedometer is pegged.

    I stopped to get gas in the morning, and upon restart, it was still at 20. I hit the trip counter to reset the dial, and the speedometer dropped to 0. No mileage rolled over from the ~1.5 miles I drove to the nearest gas station, and the speedometer started working appropriately (along with trip & odometer).

    Three questions:
    1. What's the best way to troubleshoot this issue? Could the trip odometer be getting "stuck" on some speedometer dial?
    2. I recently had my car serviced (oil lube & filter), is it possible the mechanic could have tampered with the speedometer and associated wires?
    3. Do I need to declare anything with DMV regarding the mileage that accumulated that did not roll on the odometer?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    poysn1,

    Apparantely nobody who knows the details of Honda Civic has answered this yet, so I'll take a crack to maybe help a little. Sorry I don't know the specifics for your vehicle.

    The engine is a single overhead cam, which means you have one cam w/sits on top of the engine. The belt or chain which drives that cam, would be enclosed by a casing (it's not the accessory belt/pulleys on the outside of the engine). That cam runs along the top of the engine, so the sensor could be anywhere along the top of the engine, but I would think most likely on one of the ends.

    In a Toyota, it's on the end by the transmission on the drivers side, furthest away from the accessory belt and pulleys This sensor is going to be reading the pulses from the camshaft as it's turning, so expect to see it in position perpendicular and 'pointing at' the center line of the camshaft. You may have other sensors in that area as well, for instance a knock sensor, or engine coolant sensor (which you would expect to see in the block where the coolant is).
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You have a sensor, typically on the output shaft of the transmission, which counts the speed of the axle turning. That is fed to your computer, and then outputed to the display. When your display is acting up, you don't know which of the pieces is the problem.

    One way I use to troubleshoot this, is to try driving your vehicle with the cruise control. If the cruise control holds the correct speed, then in high likelihood the sensor is okay, and the computer is okay, and the problem is in your display. If the vehicle doesn't hold on cruise, then it's either the sensor or computer, and I'd suspect the sensor.

    No you don't have to report anything to DMV.

    The oil change might have bumped the wiring to the sensor.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks for the response. What can I look for under the hood to see if something's loose? Any chance you can link a picture or image? I'll take a picture of my car when I get home and upload it, maybe you can point me in the right direction.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Here are some pictures of the Civic, please let me know where I should focus my attention on.

    Picture of entire hood:
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0328.jpg

    Upper right corner close up:
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0329.jpg

    Lower right corner close up: (the cylindrical thing in the main frame appears to be the cruise control actuator, there's a sticker on it.)
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0330.jpg

    Close up of upper left corner behind air filter:
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0331.jpg

    Bottom left corner:
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0332.jpg

    Speedometer display at 20mph (car in ACC/ON, in park)
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0327.jpg
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Did you test with the cruise control? and what is the result of that? If your cruise is working, then you know your sensor is working.

    The transmission is at the left end of the engine (looking at your picture), then has axles going out to the wheels. It's on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

    I'll scan a couple files that I have, to see if I have a picture.

    BTW, you should clean that corrosion off your positive battery terminal. Water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, then cover it with a light coating of petroleum jelly or grease.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Oh, this big thing is my transmission?
    http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/disregardec/IMG_0330.jpg

    Interesting. I'll take it for a quick spin and check the cruise control, back in 15 minutes. Thanks for the response.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Here's the best I can do. It's the electrical layout from a 95 Civic. The speed sensor is C112. Hopefully you can zoom in to it to see.

    95 Civic

    No that last picture is not your transmission. I realize I said the left side of your engine, and that may be confusing. It's on the left side as looking at your picture, it's actually the passenger side of the engine.

    The engine output shaft, is bolted to the transmission, which then thru the half shaft axles drives the power out to the wheels.You'll have to get deeper down into the engine compartment.
  • honda097honda097 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I'm new to this forum and clueless about cars but u guys seem to know your stuff- I have a honda civic coupe- ex i think. Recently it started hesitating when I'm accelerating- my bro suggested air filter, plugs or fuel filter?? I really have to sink the accelerator to get her to move and even so feels weird- like she's holding back- no issues as yet with idling.
    Just stressed her out by driving from Austin to Colorado so i'm not sure!
    Please help!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I think you're going to need to get it to a repair shop to have them diagnose your problem. The symptoms you describe could be any number of hundreds of things. Basically an engine needs a correct fuel mixture, compression of that mixture, and a spark to ignite it at the correct time.

    All of the things you mention 'could' be the source of your problem.....or they could be just fine and it could be something else. We don't know the maintenance that you've done in the past, which would help a garage determine what the problem might be. If you told me you replaced your plugs 2 years ago and have 12K on the new ones, I'd think the plugs might not be the source of the problem but I'd want to pull them and look at how they were burning to see if a clue there. If on the other hand you tell me you've never changed the plugs and have 150K on them....I'd tell you to go replace the plugs as they are long overdue.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Yeah I figured that it wasn't the transmission,

    So, I took it for a spin today and the first time at startup, the problem didn't happen.

    The second time, it locked on startup at the usual 20 mph, then after about 1/4 mile of driving it dropped to 0 mph and then picked up after my next stop.

    Just now, it stayed at 20mph for the entire duration (about 10 minutes) of driving. I successfully used Cruise Control at a speed above the 20 mph (Honda's Cruise won't click on until you're above 25mph, too), give or take around 40 mph.

    So, we know that Cruise Control is recognizing that I'm driving faster than 25. What's the next move? I took a peek under the hood to look for the thing you linked, but when I zoomed in I wasn't able to figure out what was what.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles