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The yearly mean mileage indicates you will NEVER break even with a hybrid Civic/Prius. I say fix it (the 2000 Civic) when needed/necessary and pocket the monthly payments. If she simply MUST be a slave to a new car, a Civic/Corolla/Hyndai (etc) product is the way to go.
I am hoping that one of you can help me. I have an 02 Honda Civic. About a year ago my car temperature gauge would constantly fluctuate hot and cold. My husband determined that it was the fan switch going bad. He replaced it and my thermostat...everything was peachy until recently it started happening again. Any recommendations on what it could be now??? Could it be the lame switch again or maybe something different? Any options are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
My coolant levels are fine. My oil levels are fine. I've just had the thermostat replaced. The fan is working (when leaving my car on idle, the fan will kick on as soon as the gauge hits the mid point or so -- returning the temp levels to normal). I just had the 100k tuneup.
Knowing absolutely nothing about cars, I asked my mechanic about the possibility of a blown, cracked, or otherwise damaged head gasket (which seems to be the consensus diagnoses for other forums dealing with similar issues) -- he scoffed and said that wasn't the problem.
What the heck is wrong with my car.
Thanks.
The cooling fan is set up to come on when the car reaches a certain temperature, which is activated by a relay connected to the engine which senses temperature; though the fan should always come on when you turn on the A/C switch.
To verify turn on the ignition and turn on the A/C, check the fan. If I am right he fan is not running.
You can unplug the fan at the connector and insert a test light into the leads to see if you are getting power. If you are getting power then I would replace the fan.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
For (1), did the problem start after the new thermostat? If so, it could be in backwards or is bad. If not, then you could have a radiator that is clogged up.
For (2), the classic cause if a failing head gasket. I'd find a new mechanic who will actually test for that possibility.
The part that gives the "juice" for the spark is called the igniter, it's inside that distributor cap and if it gets moist, it wouldn't be able to start. Please be careful, remove the cap slowly and gently, the igniter has a ceramic tip to it and you can break it off if you don't remove the distributor cap slowly.
Let us know what you find! :shades:
Have you checked the battery? Have a load test done on the battery. As temperatures fall, the battery's ability to produce enough amps/volts to start the car also fall. If it's a bad battery, would start fine when warm, but get it to an extreme cold, and poof! It won't be able to start the car.
Check that first. If you've already done a load test and the battery checks out ok. Then I would look into the same as I mentioned before, the distributor cap, even to go as far as to check the igniter for good operation. I don't know the measurements but a good service manual would tell you.
Let us know if you had a load test on the battery...
The full story is.
Have a Honda civic 1.6 automatic 1998 model I think. Drove around town and noticed temp gauge was right up. Checked radiator well and was bone dry as was radiator, refilled both seemed to be okay, but by mistake I topped up with screen wash not antifreeze that I thought was in the car oops.
Had to do a 200 mile journey on motorway/highway traveling on average at about 80mph well needed topping up but all seemed okay, not until the last 10 miles did the temperature go back in the red again, rest of journey normal, no air con or heating on as nice day.
Made it to destination with another top up of water, remaining in well was boiling. (there is nor thermostat in the card, removed last year and never put it back in although new is in my glove compartment)
This morning did a short journey to test straight into the rep, called recovery out, found pipe going into the back on the manifold had sheared off, did a temporary repair by wrapping remains of pipe over the stub left on the manifold checked for water leakage and that pipe to radiator was getting hot and all seemed okay.
Drove another 5 miles and back in red again, let car rest, topped up water levels in radiator and well and all seemed fine for around 20 miles, then back in red. Switch on the heaters and stayed at correct temperature.
Gambled and drove the 200 miles back at about the same speed with heater on full, stopped after 100 miles found well was dry topped it up again.
Tried turning the heaters off to test as we went, heat went straight back up, soon as you switched them off heat went back down.
Made it home crossing every finger I had.. But need to get fixed fast as im going to boil having the heater on all the time.
Whats going wrong,??????
The car will not start. Starts in the morning no problem, but once it has sat all day in the warm temp you come out to leave and the thing won't start....you can wait till the temp goes down and car starts fine. We have had it in the shop NUMEROUS times and they can't firgue out whats wrong. Everything checks fine - fuel pump, lines, alternator, battery. Had the disp.cap replaced...going nuts. Can someone give me a clue?
Thanks
I have a 2002 LX 4 door 5 speed with 85k miles. When I am accelerating quickly (merging onto the interstate) or traveling around 75 mph, the engine hesitates and lets out a very short squeak. It only happens between 3000 and 3200 rpm.
Any idea what this is? It hasn't gotten any worse since it started 3 or 4 months ago, but I don't want to ignore what might be a serious problem. I figure it's some sort of belt issue, because that's what the squeak sounds like.
Thanks in advance for any help.
It probably is a belt slipping. Is the AC engaged when this happens? It might be the AC clutch providing a bit more load to a loose belt which slips and squeals. Try tightening the belt.
thanks
I had to finally change a set after 5 years (80,000 miles) because one wiper blade started to tear ever so slightly.
There are a few tricks if you are interested. If not, I don't want to bore folks.
I would recommend replacing the wiper blades inserts every year before the winter season. They cost less than $15 a pair and you can install them yourself. The replacement inserts come in a plastic wrapper that has instructions printed on it. Takes less than 10 mins of your time with no special tools.
lmoreno3
Lx has been overheating at random times. I put anti-freeze into it at least every 2 to 3 days. Yesterday I was playing around with it and was letting the engine run while the radiator cap was off(adding fluid letting it work air out). I placed the funnel in the radiator started the car, and by the time i had the cap off the anti-freeze the radiator was overflowing. The pressure caused it to back up. My father told me the Thermostat was bad so i bought one and put it in. But it overheated on me again today. What is the deal? ****Side note: mostly it does it when the car idles, but it will do it when in motion as well, just not as much*****
This car has about 45,000 miles on it and--knowing her--it has probably never been driven over 55 mph. It's been dealer maintained and the upholstery almost looks new--especially in the back seat. My question is, what are some issues that may pop up with a car this old? My daughter is almost 13 and I'm thinking I may buy it, maybe drive it some the next couple of years and then let her learn how to drive on it/be her first car. My only fear is that by the time she turns 16, it'll be 18 years old. At the current mileage, I would think the car has about 100,000 miles left in it. I know it's old, but it has sunroof, air, automatic, power windows, etc. Those are some nice features for a first car. Thoughts?
Is your fan running when the car is overheating? If not then either the fan or the circuit (including the temp sensor) is bad. This type of failure is most evident when stopped or at low speed because not enough air is flowing over the radiator.
However, you say you're losing coolant at a fair clip.
Can you see cooling leaks?
If the fan runs and you don't see any leaks you could have a failing head gasket or a crack somewhere in the cooling jacket (head/block)--which is why coolant is disappearing but you don't see any leaks.
the brakes lightd on my 92 civic vx hatchback stays always ON, no matter what, car turned on(started), turned off, with or without the keys, they are just always stays on!
does anyone have any tips or help to provide on this?
Thanks in advance!!!
The "Battery Light" came on indicating that the car wasn't charging properly. I feel pretty certain that it is the alternator because I can run up the RPM's and the light goes off. The belt is tight...maybe 1/4 inch movement.
My question is for someone with limited mechanical experience how difficult is this to change in one's driveway? Is there a website that I can visit that will offer step by step instructions?
Thanks
Sometimes it starts up just fine. To me it sound like a dying battery but I took it to AutoZone and the battery and charging system are just fine. The guys said maybe the starter is beginning to go ???
Any suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated !!
Thanks
i have a EK3 - 2000 Civic (D15Z4 Engine), Automatic. It has done 104,000 KM. I bought it about 3 months back.....
Changed the timing belt, tension, oil seals, filters, shocks, cleaned the injectors, tune up .. all from the Honda Agent. But it not doing great on fuel economy.......Only does about 7.5Km to the Litre...
U.S. 17 Miles per Gallon
U.K. 20.42 Miles per Gallon
By the way.. the tyre size is 185/65R14 .. Stock size was 185/70R13...
When all of the above failed... the agent plugged the computer & checked the ECU & other settings.... the guy who did the test said the Injectors are open (when idle) for about 3.4 to 3.5 ms... he said that looks to be the issue and the normal range should be 2.6 to 2.8 ms.......
I need your help..........
My daughter just got herself a 2000 civic (vp) .
The key gets stuck in the ignition and can only be removed with the battery disconnected ? I checked the ignition fuse is good. maybe a sensor or? Dont have a chiltens manual yet so looking for advise.
Also it doesn't lock in park. Im assuming its supposed to. are these related?
Thanks for any help.
Scott
Thanks for the response though.