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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    So what is wrong with the 2000 LX Civic with 104,000 miles? It only gets 11,555 miles per year !!! Was the timing belt and water pump changed in addition to the spark plug change and major tune? There is no reason that car should not last a min of 300,000 miles, unless she drives it like a pizza delivery driver (or is the pizza delivery driver) or is abusive of the car.

    The yearly mean mileage indicates you will NEVER break even with a hybrid Civic/Prius. I say fix it (the 2000 Civic) when needed/necessary and pocket the monthly payments. If she simply MUST be a slave to a new car, a Civic/Corolla/Hyndai (etc) product is the way to go.
  • marylongmarylong Member Posts: 10
    Read this article from Consumer Reports http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars//tires-auto-parts/tires/making-your-car-- last-10-07/overview/200k-ov.htm then invest in getting your Civic repaired as needed. ;)
  • MyhondahatesmeMyhondahatesme Member Posts: 1
    Hi all!

    I am hoping that one of you can help me. I have an 02 Honda Civic. About a year ago my car temperature gauge would constantly fluctuate hot and cold. My husband determined that it was the fan switch going bad. He replaced it and my thermostat...everything was peachy until recently it started happening again. Any recommendations on what it could be now??? Could it be the lame switch again or maybe something different? Any options are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • emporer1998emporer1998 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX with 103,000 miles. Car still drives like a dream. Only problem is at night when driving at any speed the headlights intermittently dim or pulsate. I would say that they dim to about 70% then back to 100% . Everything else works fine. I also noticed that the dashboard lights do the same. Please help
  • tbryanttbryant Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, am new here and hope someone can help me. My husband and I moved to Indiana from South Carolina last year, since we have been here for two very harsh winters, we are having some troubles with our Honda. In the winter, whenever you start the car, the power steering is frozen, you can not turn the wheel easily. If you let it run and heat up for about 10 minutes, it is fine, what could be causing this problem? Is it just a cold natured car? We never had this problem before we moved, but the car has also never been in negative degree weather and/or snow? thanks for your help.
  • KettyKetty Member Posts: 14
    I agree with you but she is eager to select her own car. I gave her the car when she started commuting to college ...
  • ts87ts87 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Civic EX is overheating. Whenever I drive in stop-and-go traffic or 30-45+ minutes my car starts to overheat -- in cold weather, hot weather, with the air conditioner on or off, with the air vent on or off. The temperature gauge will almost immediately return to near-normal levels upon turning my heat on full blast. The car doesn't overheat with freeway driving.

    My coolant levels are fine. My oil levels are fine. I've just had the thermostat replaced. The fan is working (when leaving my car on idle, the fan will kick on as soon as the gauge hits the mid point or so -- returning the temp levels to normal). I just had the 100k tuneup.

    Knowing absolutely nothing about cars, I asked my mechanic about the possibility of a blown, cracked, or otherwise damaged head gasket (which seems to be the consensus diagnoses for other forums dealing with similar issues) -- he scoffed and said that wasn't the problem.

    What the heck is wrong with my car.

    Thanks.
  • JScaduto1JScaduto1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guy it sounds like your electric cooling fan (behind the radiator) has either quit working or the temperature relay that controls it has failed.

    The cooling fan is set up to come on when the car reaches a certain temperature, which is activated by a relay connected to the engine which senses temperature; though the fan should always come on when you turn on the A/C switch.

    To verify turn on the ignition and turn on the A/C, check the fan. If I am right he fan is not running.

    You can unplug the fan at the connector and insert a test light into the leads to see if you are getting power. If you are getting power then I would replace the fan.

    Hope this helps,
    Jeff
  • marylongmarylong Member Posts: 10
    I have a very similar problem as post #261. My car was over heating. We checked the fan and verified that it was functioning. We then assumed the Temp relay was bad. In replacing the relay, my boyfriend over tightened it and it snapped off. Until we could figure out how to remove the sheered off part, he hot-wired the fan so it would stay running from the moment I turned on the car. That worked. Well, then we had a mechanic replace the broken relay and within 2 days my car was back to over heating. We notice that as the water was boiling in both the radiator and the overflow, it had shriveled and melted the gasket that sealed the top to the overflow and steam was now coming out the top. We have been unable to find a replacement for the gasket. He once again hot-wired the fan, but somehow that failed and the car started over heating again. My question is - if the car has a working fan and has a new temperature relay, is just a missing gasket from the overflow going to cause the car to overheat? What else could it possibly be? :(
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    have you checked to make sure the water pump is working? also, have you checked the thermostat? that might be screwed up. either one wouldn't allow coolant flow through.
  • september17thseptember17th Member Posts: 1
    I know this is a popular issue for Civic owners of certain model years. I have a 2001 Civic EX automatic. I drive very little and have only 55,000 miles. One of the front struts started leaking a couple of years ago. The extended warranty covered a replacement. Now another front strut is leaking. I understand that this is a popular problem, and I'm not all that excited about getting new struts again. Has Honda, or anyone for that matter, come up with a permanent solution to this problem. I'm not all that excited about replacing the struts every year. What if I do nothing and just keep driving the car until I absolutely have to replace them? So far, I haven't noticed any problems with driving.
  • thegagethegage Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem on my '95. It's usually a sign of an alternator on the way out (failing diodes). I replaced the alternator and the problem was resolved. It also helps to check and clean chassis/engine grounds at the same time.
  • thegagethegage Member Posts: 13
    The reason the heater works is that it's a mini radiator. Also, it points to the fact that either (1) there is not enough coolant flow through your radiator, or (2) more heat than normal is being produced by the engine.

    For (1), did the problem start after the new thermostat? If so, it could be in backwards or is bad. If not, then you could have a radiator that is clogged up.

    For (2), the classic cause if a failing head gasket. I'd find a new mechanic who will actually test for that possibility.
  • marylongmarylong Member Posts: 10
    The water pump was replaced when the timing belt was changed which was the same time the mechanic replaced the part my BF broke off. The thermometer has not been checked as there was some reason to believe it could not be the issue. I guess it's worth a try though. In the mean time, I just keep adding coolant/water every couple days and don't drive for more than 20-30 minutes at a time. Sure wish I had the time to get this worked out. ;) Thanks.
  • dartfrog51dartfrog51 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 civic that has no problem starting, but the last three times it has rained heavy, it will not start the next morning. it cranks fine, but will not fire to start. when it sits and "dries out", (could be hours) it starts fine. any ideas? thanks
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    sounds like moisture is getting into the distributor cap/rotor. Check the distributor cap for any cracking in the plastic, and see if the rubber seal is missing off of that cap. Also see if there is any moisture inside the cap, this will confirm where the issue is.

    The part that gives the "juice" for the spark is called the igniter, it's inside that distributor cap and if it gets moist, it wouldn't be able to start. Please be careful, remove the cap slowly and gently, the igniter has a ceramic tip to it and you can break it off if you don't remove the distributor cap slowly.

    Let us know what you find! :shades:
  • tbryanttbryant Member Posts: 2
    we are having the same problem with the same year car. i don't understand why this prob would all of a sudden start, is it because we are living in an extremely cold area now, or is it something that just happens?
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    no that's not something that just happens. car should start regardless of temperature.

    Have you checked the battery? Have a load test done on the battery. As temperatures fall, the battery's ability to produce enough amps/volts to start the car also fall. If it's a bad battery, would start fine when warm, but get it to an extreme cold, and poof! It won't be able to start the car.

    Check that first. If you've already done a load test and the battery checks out ok. Then I would look into the same as I mentioned before, the distributor cap, even to go as far as to check the igniter for good operation. I don't know the measurements but a good service manual would tell you.

    Let us know if you had a load test on the battery...
  • thegagethegage Member Posts: 13
    Classic sign of weak spark--either gettting shorted to ground in the cap due to moisture or somewhere in the wires, or due to worn plugs. When was the last time you changed the spark plug wires and the spark plugs?
  • stefhondastefhonda Member Posts: 1
    Hi have a strange one, think I know the cause but some advice could be good if im on the right track.

    The full story is.

    Have a Honda civic 1.6 automatic 1998 model I think. Drove around town and noticed temp gauge was right up. Checked radiator well and was bone dry as was radiator, refilled both seemed to be okay, but by mistake I topped up with screen wash not antifreeze that I thought was in the car oops.

    Had to do a 200 mile journey on motorway/highway traveling on average at about 80mph well needed topping up but all seemed okay, not until the last 10 miles did the temperature go back in the red again, rest of journey normal, no air con or heating on as nice day.

    Made it to destination with another top up of water, remaining in well was boiling. (there is nor thermostat in the card, removed last year and never put it back in although new is in my glove compartment)

    This morning did a short journey to test straight into the rep, called recovery out, found pipe going into the back on the manifold had sheared off, did a temporary repair by wrapping remains of pipe over the stub left on the manifold checked for water leakage and that pipe to radiator was getting hot and all seemed okay.

    Drove another 5 miles and back in red again, let car rest, topped up water levels in radiator and well and all seemed fine for around 20 miles, then back in red. Switch on the heaters and stayed at correct temperature.

    Gambled and drove the 200 miles back at about the same speed with heater on full, stopped after 100 miles found well was dry topped it up again.

    Tried turning the heaters off to test as we went, heat went straight back up, soon as you switched them off heat went back down.

    Made it home crossing every finger I had.. But need to get fixed fast as im going to boil having the heater on all the time.

    Whats going wrong,??????
  • gagirl999gagirl999 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Honda Civic and have no issues with it until warm weather comes along.
    The car will not start. Starts in the morning no problem, but once it has sat all day in the warm temp you come out to leave and the thing won't start....you can wait till the temp goes down and car starts fine. We have had it in the shop NUMEROUS times and they can't firgue out whats wrong. Everything checks fine - fuel pump, lines, alternator, battery. Had the disp.cap replaced...going nuts. Can someone give me a clue?
  • lloyderlloyder Member Posts: 1
    Hi i bought my wife an auto civic 1600 1993,its started to slip gears now 101,000mls and i wondered given the age i do not want to spend thousands of pounds fixing it can i change the gearbox easy enough for a reconditioned unit.I am good with spanners but by no means a qualified mech.I just wondered if i could do it easily enough.
    Thanks
  • tmickeydtmickeyd Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 civic LX. When I turn my headlights on my dashboard lights go out! Also i think this problem is causing my radio not to work. Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thanks.
  • paulbrpaulbr Member Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I have a 2002 LX 4 door 5 speed with 85k miles. When I am accelerating quickly (merging onto the interstate) or traveling around 75 mph, the engine hesitates and lets out a very short squeak. It only happens between 3000 and 3200 rpm.

    Any idea what this is? It hasn't gotten any worse since it started 3 or 4 months ago, but I don't want to ignore what might be a serious problem. I figure it's some sort of belt issue, because that's what the squeak sounds like.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • enverenver Member Posts: 4
    paulbr-
    It probably is a belt slipping. Is the AC engaged when this happens? It might be the AC clutch providing a bit more load to a loose belt which slips and squeals. Try tightening the belt. ;)
  • robert141robert141 Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem and I have found something that seems to work so far.. even in humid 85+ degree days!... just fill the tank with the highest octane the gas station provides.. a little on the spendy side but I have not had a hot start since then, sometimes a foreign car needs that extra octane to start up. If that doesnt work then i dont know what the issue is with your car.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Member Posts: 5
    My steering wheel sounds like it is rubbing against rubber when I turn it to the right. It is also a little hard to turn. Any ideas what is the cause?
  • mannychanda187mannychanda187 Member Posts: 10
    Hi I have 2008 honda civic with 12,000 miles on it and I have been seeing that wiper blades have been streaking when they are used. It has been happening for couple of months probably around 9,000 miles. I don't usually use them that much only when there is raining and I clean them up whenever I fill up the gas at the gas station. can anybody tell me how often should these be replaced? I live in midwest.
    thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The rubber that Honda oem uses is quite durable when cared for. However if ignored, a 6 mo change will cure what ails it.

    I had to finally change a set after 5 years (80,000 miles) because one wiper blade started to tear ever so slightly.

    There are a few tricks if you are interested. If not, I don't want to bore folks.
  • crazyflycrazyfly Member Posts: 61
    In my experience the very cold weather shortens the life of a wiper blade rubber to less than a year. Mileage doesn't matter in this case becaue it is the weather that makes the wiper blade brittle after which it starts streaking. I've lived in midwest and northeast and experienced this first hand. I now live in the south and the wiper blade lasts a few years.

    I would recommend replacing the wiper blades inserts every year before the winter season. They cost less than $15 a pair and you can install them yourself. The replacement inserts come in a plastic wrapper that has instructions printed on it. Takes less than 10 mins of your time with no special tools.
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Member Posts: 21
    My wife's Honda Civic EX AC went out recently. I went and bought a new compressor with clutch, expansion valve, the whole works. Had it all replaced at a shop. But the AC now working, does not really feel cold, or cool the car interior down. Took it back to the shop, they rechecked all of thier work, vaccumed the whole unit and recharged it with the same effect. I later checked the AC Charge, and it marked full of freon (134A). Is there something else that I can check or replace? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    lmoreno3
  • brandonpitt2brandonpitt2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Honda Civic
    Lx has been overheating at random times. I put anti-freeze into it at least every 2 to 3 days. Yesterday I was playing around with it and was letting the engine run while the radiator cap was off(adding fluid letting it work air out). I placed the funnel in the radiator started the car, and by the time i had the cap off the anti-freeze the radiator was overflowing. The pressure caused it to back up. My father told me the Thermostat was bad so i bought one and put it in. But it overheated on me again today. What is the deal? ****Side note: mostly it does it when the car idles, but it will do it when in motion as well, just not as much*****
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    Hello. I have a cousin who has had a 1994 EX Sedan since new. She's going to break down and buy a new Honda this fall and she's willing to sell it to me for $1000 because she doesn't want to fool with trying to sell it in the paper or haggle with a trade-in on a 15 year old car.

    This car has about 45,000 miles on it and--knowing her--it has probably never been driven over 55 mph. It's been dealer maintained and the upholstery almost looks new--especially in the back seat. My question is, what are some issues that may pop up with a car this old? My daughter is almost 13 and I'm thinking I may buy it, maybe drive it some the next couple of years and then let her learn how to drive on it/be her first car. My only fear is that by the time she turns 16, it'll be 18 years old. At the current mileage, I would think the car has about 100,000 miles left in it. I know it's old, but it has sunroof, air, automatic, power windows, etc. Those are some nice features for a first car. Thoughts?
  • thegagethegage Member Posts: 13
    Neither pressure nor a bad thermostat caused the coolant to overflow the radiator. The reason it overflowed is that liquid expands as it heats up; it will do this on any car, and very quickly after start-up.

    Is your fan running when the car is overheating? If not then either the fan or the circuit (including the temp sensor) is bad. This type of failure is most evident when stopped or at low speed because not enough air is flowing over the radiator.

    However, you say you're losing coolant at a fair clip.

    Can you see cooling leaks?

    If the fan runs and you don't see any leaks you could have a failing head gasket or a crack somewhere in the cooling jacket (head/block)--which is why coolant is disappearing but you don't see any leaks.
  • thegagethegage Member Posts: 13
    You could easily buy it and resell it for about three times what your cousin is asking. That car has another 200,000 in it. There's not a lot to worry about. Belts maybe. A full fluid change. Drive it and enjoy--or tell me where your cousin lives and I'll buy it!
  • usf813usf813 Member Posts: 8
    I think. Looks like the top of the radiator has cracked. Had 2 hoses replaced three weeks ago but i've had a lingering coolant odor. At stoplight last night temp. needle started creeping up but returned to normal when I started driving. Today I poured some coolant in the radiator and reserve and turned on car. Could see where it was leaking along the top edge of the radiator. Tomorrow i'll drive (carefully) to my families mechanic to see what he says. Considering having it towed but I think i'll be OK. 120k miles so I guess it's time for a new rad...
  • nyc2k7tsnyc2k7ts Member Posts: 1
    Upon going for a routine oil change, my mechanic told me that my 2000 Honda Civic EX coupe needed new Rear Torque Mounts, front sway bar bushings and an emissions system cleaning. The car has 74,700 miles. I do not hear any symptons from the car when hitting bumps or making corners. I've never hear of these parts needing changing before. I've never even heard of an emissions system cleaning. He wanted to do all this with a coolant flush for 800 bucks. These seems like excessive and needless repairs, especially since the car isnt showing any abnormalities. Has anyone come across these issues and have any advice, I asked another mechanic and he told me "what the hell is a rear torque mount" he used to work in a honda service shop with a dealer in NY. thanks
  • bohan_bohanbohan_bohan Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a friend who is leaving the country. So he wants to get rid of his Honda Civic 09 sedan which is on lease. The car is in good condition 27k kilometres. The car is on lease till the end of 2010 with a monthly payment of $260. Can someone tell me if this is a good deal to take?? and also how much do i have to pay to change the leasing agreement from his name to mine? and the approximate residue value of the till the end of the lease?? Thank you very much.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might try running this by the folks hanging out in this discussion: Purchasing at the End of Your Lease. Good luck!
  • dfwlovadfwlova Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,

    the brakes lightd on my 92 civic vx hatchback stays always ON, no matter what, car turned on(started), turned off, with or without the keys, they are just always stays on! :(
    does anyone have any tips or help to provide on this?

    Thanks in advance!!!
  • rga1960rga1960 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Civic VP. I absolutely love the car and it has been extremely reliable even considering that it has 220,000 miles on it now.

    The "Battery Light" came on indicating that the car wasn't charging properly. I feel pretty certain that it is the alternator because I can run up the RPM's and the light goes off. The belt is tight...maybe 1/4 inch movement.

    My question is for someone with limited mechanical experience how difficult is this to change in one's driveway? Is there a website that I can visit that will offer step by step instructions?

    Thanks
  • _controlfreak_controlfreak Member Posts: 1
    You can see the edge is detached and the bottom bent; I'm more concerned about getting the edge hooked back under. I found a replacement bumper for only $50 - repair places are quoting $500, which is my deductible. There's a picture at http://www.darkrhetoric.com/honda.png 2004 Civic EX. Thanks!
  • mikeatpfcmikeatpfc Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Honda Civic barely turns over when starting ... But not all the time.
    Sometimes it starts up just fine. To me it sound like a dying battery but I took it to AutoZone and the battery and charging system are just fine. The guys said maybe the starter is beginning to go ???

    Any suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated !!

    Thanks
  • chris0628chris0628 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone,
    i have a EK3 - 2000 Civic (D15Z4 Engine), Automatic. It has done 104,000 KM. I bought it about 3 months back.....

    Changed the timing belt, tension, oil seals, filters, shocks, cleaned the injectors, tune up .. all from the Honda Agent. But it not doing great on fuel economy.......Only does about 7.5Km to the Litre...

    U.S. 17 Miles per Gallon
    U.K. 20.42 Miles per Gallon

    By the way.. the tyre size is 185/65R14 .. Stock size was 185/70R13...

    When all of the above failed... the agent plugged the computer & checked the ECU & other settings.... the guy who did the test said the Injectors are open (when idle) for about 3.4 to 3.5 ms... he said that looks to be the issue and the normal range should be 2.6 to 2.8 ms.......

    I need your help..........
  • hondaddicthondaddict Member Posts: 3
    I have electric locks and the passenger side will only unlock when I use the key--not when I use the automatic lock/unlock on the driver's side. In fact it is really hard to manually lock or unlock it using the post/button whatever it is called. Any ideas?
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    you might want to look into the door lock actuator. That had problems before on previous civics i've had from the 96-2000 model range.
  • mrrustymacmrrustymac Member Posts: 2
    Hello , maybe somebody can help us out a bit here.
    My daughter just got herself a 2000 civic (vp) .

    The key gets stuck in the ignition and can only be removed with the battery disconnected ? I checked the ignition fuse is good. maybe a sensor or? Dont have a chiltens manual yet so looking for advise.

    Also it doesn't lock in park. Im assuming its supposed to. are these related?
    Thanks for any help.
    Scott
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I cannot think of any connection disconnecting the battery has or would have on the removal of the ignition key.....well maybe. In park with the car "off" and key removed the transmission should lock in the park position only being able to be moved into reverse-drive with the ignition key in the start position (car running) and foot on the brake pedal. There is a mechanical/electrical connection in play here so maybe that is a cause of your problems. I think the brake light switch also doubles as an interlock of sorts telling "the car" you have your foot on the brake so it is OK to shift out of park. This is a safety feature designed to keep people from slipping the car into a drive function without being in a position to keep it from "unintended acceleration" i.e. a foot on the brake.
  • mrrustymacmrrustymac Member Posts: 2
    Got it. It was the actuator pin in the shifter. actually was a service bulletin i found for an adjustment of the shifter cable.
    Thanks for the response though.
  • teestees Member Posts: 2
    Got into an accident where two air bags deployed and my fender needs to be fixed. No engine damage or transmission damage. My windshield fluid container needs to be replaced. How much do you all think this will cost plus labor? I have 104,000 miles on it and I think kbb is about $3500 under fair condition. If the fixing price is close to the cost of the car, is it worth fixing? The car has been rock steady since I brought it new. Zero maintanence needed besides the usual changing battery, new tires, brakes and oil changes.
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