Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
All of a sudden the driver's side rear door's power lock has stopped functioning. It still works manually but doesn't work with the lock switch on the driver's door nor the keyless entry. Anyone else run into an issue like this?
Thanks
I've also noticed that the car's suspension has noticeably decreased in quality. The new tires helped significantly, but I feel like I'm on a pogo stick when I go over those 2-3" strips of black that decorate our freeways hiding/fixing cracks in the cement which gets unbearable after a while. What could this be caused by and it's solution, and will the dealership check this at 105k?
Most Honda owners have much stronger warranty coverage than most dealers admit. See the consent decree between Honda and the EPA. See pagesw 10 and 11 which refer to Appendex B. Everything from intake, fuel, exhaust, etc is covered, including the very, very common cracked manifolds.
http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/decrees/civil/caa/amerhonda-cd.pdf
If your dealer won't honor it , call your state attorney general and ask for consumer protection. They will educate the dealer about the meaning of the federal law.
Daniel
The IAC valve is really expensive for Honda Civic 1998. Is it better to clean the valve or replace the valve completely with a new one. Or is there anything else I should be looking at. Any advice will be highly appreciated ?
-D15B4 series SOHC 16 Valve
-about 195,000km on it (not miles)
I bought if off my mate for $1000 AUD, Unregistered. To get it registered, I brought it to the mechanics to get a Road Worthy Certificate, RWC, ( According to Victoria Laws, coz I live in Melbourne ). Problems/expenses that I've encountered so far
include:
-Alternator, got that replaced for $100 - parts and labour included
-Needed a Unregistered permit from VicRoads in-order to drive the car around, 10 days for roughly $50
-VicRoads inspection $50
-Some lightbulbs such as brake lights/parking lights/front lights replacement $10
-Needed to replace my whole front windscreen, since the mechanics would not let me get a RWC because of a scratch smaller then a $1 dollar coin, I had no insurance cover so it cost me about $185-the guy came down to my place and installed it.
-Road Worthy Certificate cost me $120, fair price since the mechanics need to take photos of every car before issuing a Road Worthy Cert.
-Gasket cover valve change $150, got this done at the same mechanic which issued me the RWC, knew this was a rip-off since they get the part in for 20-30bucks or something, Wasn't going to do it, but it had to be done to prevent oil leak, and pass
the RWC.
-Petrol $50bucks
-Power Steering container replacement $20
-Bought some minor accessories for $20
-Registration at VicRoads $610
Thats how much I spent so far, and now I need the following to be done:
Just got a quote for $650 which includes
-full tune up
-full service
-water pump replacement
-timing belt replacement
-adjusting the carby choke due to car having a hard time starting up
-brakes bleeding due to the car Stil going abit when I step on the brakes
I told the mechanic I also have these problems:
-acceleration problem- there's a kick especially when you slow down or idle and press the pedal to accelerate, happens at corner turns as well as normal simple accelleration to increase speed,
-and some rattling sound when your driving on a 80km/hr road
Anyone know what these problems are and approx how much to fix ?
-worst case scenario or easy fix input would be greatful
Could there be a short somewhere? Is there a warranty still affective for the manifold or ECu computer beyond 150,00miles.......
Also about 5 years ago the SRS main unit had an internal failure isn't Honda responsible for replacing it The dealer has refused to pay to replace it from the get-go.
I would appreciate any advice.. Thank you!
Thanks.
after changing the battery Its only had the issue where the car "stalls" when when trying to speed up about 3 times since the battery swap. Its been about 6-7 weeks ago?
I haven't had any problems with the whole speedometer going crazy and having to disconnect it to drive the car.
When I swap out my winter tires in April I'll have the lights/electrical checked out that light up the dash.
There has to be something corroded and shorting out there... and just need needs to be replaced from age. I can hear a loud click sometimes when the light comes on. a friend said he cleaned all the connections from the distributor going to the speedometer the ECU and dash area.
The only other thing I did was replace my headlight bulbs they were visiblely dimmer due to be at least 10 years old.
both look like nice upgrades, but my impression is that the rims from the 2012 model look less substantial in the amount of metal used - Consumer Reports really slams the most recent edition of the civic and I was thinking they cut costs in many areas including the rims.
anyone else think that?
So I am inheriting a 2002 Honda Civic EX with 65k mi on it. I know I'm going to take it to the mechanic and have it checked out and replace what it needs.
However, I'm pretty sure I'll need new tires.
Any tire gurus out there? Mostly need decent comfort, low road noise, and decent tread wear. I was thinking of going with Costco Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 when they have a Bridgestone discount. That or go to Discount Tire and get either the Hankook Mileage Plus II or the Cooper CS4 Touring. Which would be best?
I recently encountered a problem that I'm a little confused on what the cause might be.
I was driving the other day with no problems and it was raining heavily. As I was enter the freeway, the engine stalled for a second and would no longer accelerate, it would just idle at 10-15MPH. I pulled to the right shoulder, shut off the engine to check under the hood. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary, but I am no mechanic, so a glaring problem would go unseen even if it sticks out like a sore thumb.
However, after having a quick look under the hood and not finding anything. I tried to start the car and it would not start. It could not be the battery because all the lights etc were on. Needless to say, I called AAA and had it towed back to my house.
The following day, it started and ran normally without any problems thus far.
I was talking to a friend who was looking under the hood at the same night while it was raining and suggested maybe too much water gotten onto the engine and caused it. I am no expert truth be told and unsure how accurate that is.
My question is, have anybody experienced a similar problem and have found out what was the cause? I drive pretty long distances daily and having a car die out like that would get pretty dangerous on the highways with traffic.
Thanks in advance for the responses, I hope I can have an idea of what the problem might be and suggest it to my mechanic if he can't find a definite answer.
Engine loses power won't accelerate when I pushed on the gas. Eventually pulled over to check, again car won't start. It will crank but would not start. But after 20 minutes it would start again. At this time I have already called AAA and they have already sent a tow truck.
I had it towed to my friends body shop for him to look at and he said that the problem seem to be the coil/distributor. I really hope its that simple.
Has anybody have a similar problem and if replacing the coil or and the distributor fix the problem?
Before he installed it he left it running for 20 minutes and it died.
I haven't had the chance to go pick it up and actually drive it around but it seems that the problem was indeed the distributor.
However, I still have my fingers crossed until I drive it around.
I am really confused and would appreciate any answers / help you have to offer. So here is the issue:
I bought a 2003 Honda Civic Coupe EX for $5000 in August 2011. Then took it to 3 mechanics to get 3 different opinions, in order to get it completely fixed. My idea was to drive the car for atleast 5 yrs. So in order to fulfill that idea, I spent close to another $5000 on it.
The fixes included:
Replaced timing belt and 2 drive belts and valve cover gasket
Replaced both lower control arm units
New water pump
Replaced all front seals, cam and crank seals
Replaced thermostat and gasket
Replaced both front and rear struts
Replaced new spark plugs
Serviced Automatic transmission fluid flush
New battery
4 new Honda tires
replaced clock spring behind steering driving air bag
After 16 months of driving, it turns out that the engine has ceased on me because of a chipped camshaft and compression problems. It will cost another $2000 to get a 75k mile engine as replacement. This time as well I got 2 opinions and both stated the same problem.
Now the predicament is whether i should sell it or spend more to fix it? If I look at the numbers, I have already spent $10k on the car and if i sell it, the max i will get is around $2500. But if I chose to fix it by dumping another $2000 in it since majority of the parts in it are close to new, I am not sure how long the car is going to last w/o major issues and whats the guarantee that I wont have to spend more? I am really confused at this point.
Please advise.
Never a good idea. Without a warrantee, you should Always have a Mechanic look at it.
Too late now. What I am seeing you had done was at least 30% overpriced at 5k More like 50% Timing Belt/Water pump $300, Struts $1200-1500 Seals <800.
It's your call, but if you buy a 75K miles engine, you are looking at Timing belt/water pump(always do them together as it saves taking the front of the engine off again) at 110K engine miles, You didn't say how many miles on it, but a new Tranny is likely at @200k-250K miles if automatic.
Personally, I would take the $2000-$2500 and buy one off the lot for 17k or less, depending on what you buy. For what your mechanics are charging, I'd find new mechs after the Warantee on the new one wears off. You either bought a rare Honda lemon, or one with a TON of HARD miles on it.
Please Please take any used car to a trusted (prolly Factory) Mech BEFORE buying. If they won't let you, walk away. You cannot afford any deal you can't walk away from.
BTW, I'd buy some cheap used tires and stick em on B4 selling as well. Save or sell the good ones. It's not going to affect the price on a broken engine car in my experience.
As for the noise, is it constant rumbling like a bad muffler would be? or is it intermittent? Does it pop loudly on deceleration? If so, you either have a bad muffler or exhaust leak somewhere. Does the sound come from underneath or from the engine box? If underneath, may well be the muffler, especially if you live in an area where they use a lot of salt in the winters. Any noise coming out of the engine box is more serious.
IMO, while a dealer is more expensive, unless you have a mechanic that specializes in Imports, you may have to go to a dealership. You have 2 problems at least in my experience. The slowing down is the most serious. It is possible that the noise could be caused by an exhaust manifold leak (which could also cause power loss) but you say it has always been weak uphill so I doubt that the 2 are related.
The first thing I do when I buy a (used) car, is have a few little things fixed by a mechanic, so I know if he is honest, then I establish a "Rapport" with him so I can trust him with bigger items as they come up. I still view even the dealership Mechanics with a wary eye, and frequently get second opinions. I suggest that on any high dollar item, that you also get a second opinion/estimate. Even my regular mechanic occasionally tries to add a few "less than necessary" items to my bill if I don't pay attention. Unless you are carrying a heavy load, a civic should never slow down more than 2 gears on most (highway) hills.
If it is slowing down to 30 on level ground, it is certainly no exhaust problem. It could be anything from a bad fuel pump to a dropped valve or worse.
started in a day when it was -30c and i was on the hightway runing about 110km/h then one time i felt the shifting knob is shaking ,the same feeling like there is a spark plug not working and the car going on 3 spark plugs, so i check them and i found oil on 2nd and 3rd spark plug, i cleaned everything even changed the joint-set of the head gasket installed every thing back in place but still doing the same thing .
not all time only when i reach 70km/h on 4th and 5th depend specially when im going on a bridge ,at 80km/h it return no shaking again
1st.2nd.3rd has no problem at all with smooth shifting or burning and the engine gives good power also
so what is that and why exactly at 70km/h ?????
my car has 256000 km
thank you
Edit/Delete Message
By the way, no leaks detected.
Any ideas?
Our '05 LX is approaching 105,000mi and looks like it should be due for a few maintenance items, like the replacement of the spark plugs and an inspection of the valve clearance. I want to say that in the past I have seen Honda mention not needing a tune up until 105k miles, but I'm not sure what that entails exactly.
We had the timing belt/water pump replaced last year so while that is out of the way, is there any other large ticket item that should be inspected?
They should check the suspension components as well. Civic Struts last about 150K as a rule.
Not sure what they do on a tuneup as they hook it to a computer and it tells them about everything. My "Shade Tree" tuneups ended with the need for the computer diagnosis.
Of course, they need to do a compression test, but that would be a given when they pull the Plugs I would think.
I'll look at my Civic Book and see if I can add anything.
In January I brought the car to a local Honda dealer for an oil change and they told me that the compliance bushings and front stabilizer links needed to be changed to the tune of $600. I've been meaning to have the car looked at by an independent mechanic that I know but I haven't had a chance and the car has been fine as far as I can tell.