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How old is this belt? they often start getting noisey as they get old and the surfaces get worn and smooth. Belt dressing can pinpoint the problem as the belt (or which one), you might have it replaced if you haven't done it in 130,000.
does it just crank and not catch? or does it catch and just not keep running?
Unless something is seized that runs off the belt (alternator, power steering, AC, etc) and that won't let the engine run (if something won't turn that the belt is driving, it could cause such a load on the engine that it won't start). See if everything that the belt turns will in fact turn. While someone attempts to start it, look at everythign that the belt goes around and see if something isn't turning. If something won't turn, it is probably seized and you've found the problem.
let's hope it is that easy. good luck.
I personally would suspect the air conditioner compressor has internally self destructed if the starter checked out which is supposedly did.
Meanwhile maybe someone else reading here can offer some feedback.
P.S. we also have a 2007 Ody :shades:
I recently changed the power steering pump and since then I have the following problems:
on starting the odometer reads 888888, the tachometer drops to 0, the gear shift indicator blinks, fuel gauge becomes inacurate. The car runs normally except that the tachometer bounces from 0 to normal. Any sugestions of what is happening?
If you can feel the vibration in the brake pedal while you are slowing down, then the problem is a warped brake rotor.
You could also have a defective tire.
The main thing I'm wondering about is should the car always shift gears at the same speed? Depending on how fast I'm accelerating, the car doesn't seem to shift from 2-3 at the same speed twice. It's shifted as low as about 22 and anywhere up to 30.
I don't think I've had any slipping, and I think the fluid is okay. (Level looks fine, I can't tell any discoloration)
Especially after driving for awhile, I think it has less power than it should (I know it has none to begin with anyways, but it feels like less), and sometihng just doesn't feel right, like it doesn't feel stable?
So am I being paranoid, or is something wrong?
You don't indicate how many miles you have on it, and what maintenance has been done.....but have you considered giving it an engine tune up? Has the transmission fluid been changed as outlined in the owners manual? It getting louder could be the muffler or tailpipe getting a hole/crack in it somewhere....has anybody checked the vehicle over recently?
A good tune up and general maintenance refresh may be just the fix you need. Regardless, it certainly won't hurt!
Thanks,
IdahoCivic
If your radiator coolant was very low, you would not get heat (I assume that is what you mean when you say that the heat didn't work), and without coolant the engine would overheat and show as high on your temperature gauge.
a few more details of the problem:
- heater was turned on, and only ambient temperature air was vented out. shortly after, temp gauge peaked at max temp. I shut of the car for only a couple minutes and it was back to normal after starting it up again. after a few blocks, i turned the heater back on, and the temp gauge went up quickly after turning the heater back on. heater was then turned off, car shut off and restarted; temp gauge went back to normal. it spiked one more time after a few blocks and went back to normal and remained that way for the rest of the trip home. car hasn't been started since.
Has any work been done on it recently, are you leaving out any other bits of information about this car? Have you had any work done on it in the last couple of months?
What you can do when the engine is cold, is take off the radiator cap and then start the vehicle and let it idle. Watch the temperature gauge, as well as watch for movement of water in the radiator when the thermostat opens as the engine starts to warm. If the engine overheats without the water starting to flow, suspect thermostat or waterpump.
I was asking whether you had any work done, as sometimes vehicles can get air locked if the radiator was drained and refilled (the air keeps the water from circulating). If you haven't had any work, then this could not have been a problem.
However, I would be watching this closely until you figure out exactly what is going on. You might have a problem with a head gasket, with the cylinder compressing and blowing air/exhaust mixture into the coolant (thereby creating an airlock).
You might want to consider doing a pressure test on each of the cylinders, just to be safe.
"Any" shop - no. Doesn't need to be a dealer, but should be a shop which does engine tear down work regularly.
Get a compression test done (or buy a guage and do it yourself), that usually is pretty telling one way or the other.
A few possibilities:
--The clutch plate is binding on the transmission shaft.
--The clutch slave cylinder is stuck in the extended position.
--The clutch release lever (actuated by the slave cylinder) is binding.
I noticed that when I turn my key to the Start(III), the system charging indicator light was on. This morning one of my friends tried to jump start my car, but we couldn't open the front trunk. It was -15 C outside so I think everything is frozen.
I've got the car inspected one month ago. Does it mean all the batteries/connections/engine should be ok?
What would be the cheapest way to get my car back? I am in Calgary and everything is very expensive as you know.
Thanks,
Before that, I will have to figure it out how to get my car to garage. I guess I would have to call a tow but I am not sure how much it will cost me. I will call a garage.
Thank you again.