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While the title is in your name (by accident), the signed contract (remember that little thing) indicates that it is a lease. And GMAC will be contacting you about it at the end of your contract.
They made a mistake, now they want to fix it. What else would you have them do?
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regards,
kyfdx
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Some other states allow the credit, no matter if buying or leasing.
Good luck on this one...
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Trade equity isn't taxed like a cash downpayment however.
How do you mean?
In AZ for example,if you put a $2000 downpayment down on a lease you have to pay $159 in taxes on that amount.
So that $2,000 in essence becomes $1841
If you have a trade w/ $2,000 equity,that $2000 equity can be applied to the lease without taking the tax out.
I could try to sell my current car, and the estimated private party values are within payoff, but I am very cautious about doing this. There is nothing wrong with the car, so I wouldn't feel bad about selling it; I am just too nervous about other people driving my car.
I am basically looking for the perfect balance of price vs comfort. I am also considering buying used, probably CPO but leasing looks more attractive to me since I tend to change cars every 2 years or so.
Thanks for any advice.
On a lease, you negotiate the purchase price just like you would if you were buying. This means that the negative equity from your trade would be rolled in to the purchase price. Your monthly payment would reflect this negative equity, just like your monthly payment would if you were financing a purchase. It's really no different.
You should pop over to our Real World Trade-in Values discussion and post details on your current vehicle. Several members who are in the biz can tell you what to reasonably expect to get on trade-in.
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You can just add it on to your CAP cost and pay it over the lease term. That is the best way to do it. You do have some small increase in the finance charges, but if something happens to your car, early in the lease term, you haven't lost all of that tax money.
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negative equity = upside down = owe more than it's worth.
If I have a car that is worth $20,000 as a trade-in (market value), but I still owe $22,000 on the loan, then I have $2,000 negative equity. If I trade it in, the dealer will add that $2,000 to the price of whatever vehicle I purchase, meaning I will be financing $2K more than the new car is worth...
OR
I can pay off the $2,000 in negative equity myself.
This applies mainly to purchases. Leases are weirder animals. If you turn in the vehicle at the end of your contracted lease term, there is no equity, negative or postive. You're out. You're done. If you want to turn in the car early, it can get ugly - sometimes you have to pay all of the remaining lease payments PLUS the residual amount in order to be done with the vehicle. Sometimes, if you buy or lease a vehicle from the same manufacturer, you can get a bit of a break on this, but not always.
If you pay too little on your lease payments, after awhile the finance company will likely do a repo!
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Actually, when I said "you've been paying less on the lease than you should", I didn't mean paying less than the contracted monthly payments. I meant the residual was set too high in relation to actual depreciation. But I understand what you said about "negative equity" applying more to a purchased, rather than leased, vehicle.
If the residual value (i.e., your purchase price at lease end) is set too high (meaning that when you turn it in, the market value is less than the residual value), then that's someone else's problem, not yours.
(I realize that you may already understand this, but now the detail is here for anyone else who may have the same question)
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It's not such a good thing, if you are looking to get out of your lease early. If one thinks that they might not be able to fulfill the terms of a lease, then they shouldn't lease.
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I once stumbled into such a deal - '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with an MSRP of $28,xxx for $299/Mo. for 12 months/12,000 miles with $995 out of pocket due at inception. Supposedly, the only reason for the deal was that Chrysler (or the dealer) had already cut a deal to ship 'em to the Mideast a year later.
I sell a couple of Used Range Rovers a year to people who are going to export them. Depending on the country they can pay half the taxes or even more by buying a one or two year old car vs a brand new one. This one guy was telling me that when he exports a car to Dubai, at least I think it was Dubai he has to pay 100% duty on the purchase price of the car if it has less then such and such miles. He only has to pay 50% duty on cars with higher mileage.
It is the same as buying a vehicle with a lien from a bank loan.
With one exception.
Obvioulsy, the bank has to be paid off,so make sure that happens.
Also, on leases there is usually sales tax on the payoff to consider.
Make sure you have all the numbers sorted out.
The lease company has to be on board,and you have to be creit worthy to assume the lease
I just want a new car (really I'd prefer something other than a MB) for about $500 per month which is my current payment. I have no idea how to calculate what the cost of the car would be to get my payments at that rate and roll in my negative $6k. Bleh. By the way, I drive 15-20k per year. So if there's a way I could get in a new car and NOT lease, I'd love it.
Thanks in advance!
tidester, host
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Ouch!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If you don't want to lease, $500/mo is roughly $25,000 financed for 5 yrs.
Tax license,inequity,everything.
So, you have to buy a car in the teens in price,then add your $6k to Mercedes.
Since you are driving a Mercedes,I don't think you are going to want a sub $20k car.
Otherwise,try to find a car w/ decent lease incentives.
We're looking to get into a newer car and one of the options I am considering is leasing a higher end used vehicle. I've looked around but cannot find much information on this topic. What I'm really trying to do is figure out if this might be a viable option for us. My guess is alot of the depreciation has already been eaten up, so the depreciation won't be that bad, but I'm sure there are other gotcha's, like higher interest rate & money factor.
A real-world example would be great. We're contemplating an off-lease XC-90 for comparisions sake.
Thanks
Peeter
Bottom line is that new car lease programs are far more aggressive.
The residuals are higher and the money factors lower on new cars.
On used cars,you are paying bank rate money factors and the residuals stink.
MSRP - $44,725 for $369/Month for 24 months with about 3K down with 10.5K miles per year.
I called a local dealer about this yesterday to get further particulars but he was, for whatever reason, unwilling or unable to provide the cap cost, money factor, or residual figures on this offer.
It is a new offer,so he may not have the particulars,esp if you did not quote it correctly.
Interestingly, during the call he asked for my email to send the figures. His claimed reason (today) for not so supplying the numbers was that his finance manager would do so only when I came to the store.
Dealers that play games like that will have to find their customers elsewhere.
I did visit a competitor today to look one over - nice car -and confirmed the offer.
Volvo is the King of regional lease programs.. I remember someone out in I think it was the west coast flip out because they couldn't get the S70A Sign and Drive deal that we had in the NYC metro area back in 98.. S70A with cold weather pkg, $299/mo+ tax, only plates due at signing... waived 1st pmt, bank fee, sec dep, etc..
In Missouri, for example, the deal on the same car would be like $340 with 1st payment upfront, but they had 3.9apr and we didn't.