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Comments
and if that don't work id say do replace the speed control sensor on the trany also easy. just remove the front driver side tire and its located on top of the trany in plain sight. good luck and let me know how it goes.
Saturday after driving 40 mi without incident, the car would not start when it was time to go home. I have not experienced any stalling issues cited by other postings.
Do not believe it's the battery, as lights, clock and radio worked. The car started this am before calling the tow truck.
Similar issue has happened in the past. When I take it to the mechanic, he can not replicate and thinks I'm crazy. Some postings have indicated a crank shaft position sensor or fuel filter inside the pump. Has anyone experienced this same let's not start and start a couple hour later problem? Any solutions?
Also, my brakes have been noisy forever. Also thought they were not very effective. Replaced the master cylinder which helped with the stopping, although the noise is back.
Rear defrost doesn't work, read a posting to replace entire window, for the amount of driving I do, would like a more economical solution if there is one out there.
Thanks!!!
Were you able to resolve your issue? Sounds very similar to what I am experiencing. Thanks in advance - MLC
Good Luck!!
Good Luck!!
Anyway, recently we had the same situation like Eva (#52). The car suddenly wouldn’t start. No cranking at all. After 2 jump-start attempts and one fuse blown, car started and without problem made 55 miles from work to home. Next day we went to do regular oil change and decided to replace battery. We were waiting a call from the service when to pick up the car, but instead they told us that car would start, 2 more fuses blow, and die. Then car would not start again at all, no any cranking sounds. The mechanic suggested to replace starter (~450$) and then see what else could be wrong.
After reading the post from Eva (#52) and some others, I feel that changing starter would not help. I’ve noticed that after replacing battery (and remember, Sebring’s battery location is hard to get!) people had analogous problems with their Sebring’s. May be its a some trik with reconnecting the battery...?
Please let me know if somebody was able to resolve the problem and what was that.
Good luck to all!
Not much help I know, if it is diagnosed would love to know. Good luck.
Also does anyone know how to test the coil as it is inside the distributor on a 97 sebring 2.5
Had a reconditioned starter and new brakes installed last week. The green beauty chose not to start this am. Based on other postings, I am going to suggest the crankshaft position, map, speed control sensors and anti-theft relay to the mechanic and see what happens
If anyone has any other possible solutions, pls advise.
Appreciate your help in advance.
Thanks - MLC
Were you able to figure out the problem. I have the same problem now when it is in gear. But when stopped and not moving.
Thanks,
Has anyone actually fixed the problem themselves?
I just called the mechanic and he said he guessed the idle control valve... which is a $600 issue? My car has about 93,000 miles on it.
Let me know when you figure it out.
Thanks Dan
So far these are the items I replaced. Brake Pads, Brake Rotors, removed radiator and flushed it. Replaced are major hoses to radiator. Radiator cap. Thermostat. Head Cover, spark plugs and spark plug cables. Air intake manifold. Engine Mount. this is off the top of my head. The car was running just fine for a good 200 miles. Then the radiator started to malfunction. I installed a kill switch to manually start it myself. But I say anymore. After I had replaced my head cover and spark plugs, I wasn't able to drive faster that 70 MPH. It would start to back fire. Then I was able to past smog to EGR Valve. Replaced EGR Valve and started to ride fine till my radiator fan stopped working. While fan was constant on. I was driving on the freeway and my car died at 60 MPH. Now, i found replaced the sensor that turn on my radiator fan when it heats up. However, my engine dies every 10 miles and I have to wait on some side street for 10 to 45 minutes to start. Tonight, I had to tow it to a auto-shop. Now I might go pick it up before I spend any money on it due to this forum.
I have read many issues but few solutions. It has to be electrical. A friend of my said it might be the computer board. I cant go on hunches. My Service Engine light does turn on (Ever The weather has been cold and it did rain today. Someone mentioned that moisture might be an issue. I would like to know from anyone what is the cheapest way to go about this. I know my way around a junk yard now. and Pick a Part has a 50% sale this weekend in California.
Thanks.
More when I have the information.
My 2007 Sebring has started having these same problems. Stalling at a red light, and also stalling while turning right into a parking space. I'm taking to dealer on Friday. I hope that it is the crankshaft sensor or map sensor that everyone here is talking about. Have you had any problems with your car since this?
To those of you who have the same problem, ask your mechanic to uninstall the radio, and trace the electrical from the radio back as far as they can go and find an unused connecter that hooks up with the mechanism for the under-the-hood starter mechanism, disconnect it, and then you should be good to GO.
I wish I could give you more specifics, but this is a place to start, and apparently, when a good mechanic can investigate this, it's somewhat easy to find. My mechanic saw it immiately. An "aha" moment.
What year is your car?
I have a 1996 jx convertible.
Will post results of my mechanic