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the car will crank and not start if you do not turn the key totally off, but if you turn the key to off, then the car will start and run for the 4 seconds
Thank you
bernardo valdes
have a video of the sound here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfN8HgU5Ero
well hopefully it wasn't as much of a pain in the @$$ as mine was after some parts modifying and some grinding to the frame there in now and quiet as a church mouse
Well, here I am a month later with a dead car in the driveway. Why? Because as I was driving today my car started to act like it was out of oil and gas. Sputtering, coughing, lerching, jerking and then it would all die. Turn the car on immediately after and it is shaking so much you almost get sick! I had to pray for green lights because the minute I take my foot off the gas it starts to shake and shudder and then stall out. Unless I get a green before it can and I punch it and it slooooowwwly makes it's way up the road and then it lunges forward and runs normal until I take my foot of the gas and then it crawls. I can't seem to get a definitive answer for this.
Has anyone had this problem?
Can I fix it myself? As you can see, Im already well over 2000.00 in repairs for this car.
It has 116K miles on it and it's from Florida.
This car has been a thorn in my mechanics side for months now.
What is going on?!!!!!
Please Help
Thank you in advance.
First thing to check is MAF ... MASS AIR FLOW a bad one will cause stalling, rough idle, stalling and the car will usually start right back up but lack power.
The Mechanic needs to check the engine Code first before anything else. You should check them also so it will give you a general Idea what could be wrong .. Run the car for a bit so its warmed up about 2500 rpm cycle through everything Reverse, drive neural turn AC on off etc..then turn the car off.
With engine not running turn the ignition key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF and then ON again (do not start the car or crank then engine)
You must do it with-in 5 seconds the codes will begin to flash.. The light will blink the numbers first digit then pause the second digit.. EXAMPLE..
The cam sensor will flash pause flash that is code 11.
Intake Air temp sensor is code 23 it will flash flash pause flash flash flash.. Just examples....
I will do the the on and off thing you mentioned when i get it back and maybe that will help me out.
Also, It only starts stalling out when the car heats up. When i first drive it it will run fine like nothing is wrong with it. After about 15 minutes of driving, the enging will heat up, and im in trouble.. thats when the stalling starts.
I only owe about $2500 more and ive already put soo much money into fixing this car i dont think i can handle throwing away any more money if whats wrong with it is a MAJOR problem. :sick:
Should i just try taking it to a dealership and see what they can do for me? Maybe trade it in or something. Im a female and i just dont wanna be screwed out of any more money. CHRYSLER SUCKS!!
Thanks for the advice.
What happen was. The Distributor assembly burned out the first time. Had that replaced and it still didn't help all that much so took it back and found out that the 3 spark plug cables under the manifold had corroded and were arching to all the metal around them, including my new distributor effectively burning it out again causing me to stall and cutoff like I wasn't getting any gas. Now that it's all been replaced, she runs fine, not perfect, but no more engine light or stalls.
had the battery checked its 100% fine
autozone said it might be a sensor.....................any ideas? or advise
thanks
i have 98 sebring lxi. . . .. yesturday i went to start my car and it wouldn't it just clicked like the battery had been flooded. we jump started it and let it run for bout 5 mins. i went to turn around and half way through the turn it died. so after work we jumped it again let it stay connected for a few min then let it run for about 15 minutes. again went to turn around and half way through it dies. i thought it was the alternator. today my friend comes to take the alternator off to get a new one and car starts right away no problems. she revs it a little, turns it around no problems....so we take it to auto zone down the street to have the alternator tested. (also for a year check engine light was on, now it is off and when tested says passed no codes). battery wasn't charge enough to test the alternator. take it out and inside to charge and it just wont charge. buy a new battery install and test the alternator. passed fine. back up left and went home. my friend goes to turn it around and goes from drive to reverse and it dies. put in nuetral restart go to reverse and is fine. drive down the street go to turn around and again from drive to reverse it dies. drive around the block and is fine. later go to make same turn around and from drive to reverse it dies. start in nuetral go to reverse and is fine. at a stop light it hesitatated a little before it went. got to where we were going and just to see i went to reverse from drive and it was fine. the only difference was i went in a straight line and didn';t have the wheel turned at all. . . . . could this be my power steerring or something else. my dad and several mechanic friends are at a loss and don't know what it could be. . . . . . . please help!!!!!
(I'm from Sayreville NJ but living in South Louisiana now...I have a '99 JXI)
Cindi
http://www.automotive.com/chrysler/sebring/2008/recalls/t3-12-2-1/?vehicletrimab- breviatedid=1617
Like most car makers they choose a small range of cars using the vin numbers then say Oh your car is not part of the recall in order to save money. If they get caught or sued then they EXPAND the recall like what happened to Honda and Toyota lately. Chrysler used to mean quality uo until the mid 70's when to Cordoba / Aspen model came out then it was just straight down hill!
I have replaced multiple parts, including the MAP sensor. Now I have to have an electrical diagnostics in the next few weeks at the Dealer (can't get in any sooner). No recalls on this issue for this year/make. I would recommend anyone with a 1996 or 1997 Sebring with similar issues call Chrysler Customer Service at 800-853-1403 and ask a file be created for your vehicle. They did call the dealer I am working with, so they know I have been in touch with Chrysler. No recalls can happen unless people make these issues known (power to the masses and all that!!). I will be happy to report any solution, but I can tell you I have replaced the timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter and have regular oil changes and use additives to reduce water in the gas. And no, I cannot just run out and buy another vehicle...I am all in at this point. Thinking I didn't have this problem any more, I have a new roof on the car...so it LOOKS GREAT...big deal. Again, call and report your issues...it could help all of us with this year and issue.
ex engine hot sensor says its cold it dumps more gas than needed car stalls etc etc it is a simple fix cheap
it has nothing to do with temp you see on dash totally separate sensor for that ECT is for pcm only
engine coolant temp sensor change it out good luck
Getting code on Scanner Tool = Acteon ‘AutoScanner Plus’ - CP9580
P1391 = Lost of Camshaft crank
Info’ from Scanner Tool; what could cause this problem:
1) Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
2) Replaced Distributor Assembly
3) Replaced Flex Plate (fly wheel)**
4) Repair CKP Sensor Connector
5) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Parts Replaced (in order):
1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (2 times) --- After 1st (aftermarket) sensor change; hesitation went away for about 1 year
2) After 2nd (CKP) sensor (Chrysler part); hesitation restarted after driving only a few miles
3) MAP Sensor & its connector --- At this time I was also getting code ‘P1296’ (No 5V to MAP Sensor) Hesitation restarted after driving about 30 miles (have not gotten this code P1296 since
4) Fuel pump --- Was recommend to change Again hesitation started after a few miles .
5) Distributor (Camshaft Sensor built in) with a new one aftermarket
6) Sparkplugs & their wires at the same time as the distributor was replaced; with no help
7) Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – Ran for a few miles then the problems come back very intermittent
Also I have ohm-out wires (harness) from sensors to PCM; moving harness to see if there is an intermittent open, looked OK
Currently:
The car seams to hesitate more when:
1) Moving from a slow to a faster speed or going uphill (engine under load)
2) Also accelerating from a stop
3) The ‘Check Engine Light’ does not come on all the time when the engine hesitates
3) When the engine does stalls-out (which is very intermittent) it always restarts with no problems
4) **I cannot believe the Flex Plate would be the problem What do you think?
Does anyone think it could be the timing Belt?
As of June 6, 2013
Also getting code:
P1296 = No 5 Voltage to manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Info’ from Scanner Tool:
1) Replaced Manifold Absolute (Map) Sensor
2) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
one other note: the ONLY error code my car spit out was P0304 - cylinder 04 misfire.
I would appreciate any feedback you may have.
http://iridium555.blogspot.com/2012/01/chrysler-sebring-jxi-1999-convertible.htm- l