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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    tps stands for throttle posion sencer right by the intake tube next to engine
  • timsoztimsoz Member Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 94 grand cherokee laredo with 160,000 miles. When driving the tranny starts out in a high gear and stays there. if i put it in one of the two low gears (1or2) only one of those work. if i shift from 1st or 2nd into drive the tranny will shift into that high gear. is there a chance that there is a "easy fix" or is the tranny shot? i've had ALOT of electrical problems since i bought 2 weeks ago, and the tranny makes no noise.
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    Recently I had those same symptoms on my 1998 Cherokee with the AW4 transmission. At first, on rare occasions it would slip briefly out of the blue. Then wouldn't do it again for quite a while (or days) after. It was a sporadic symptom. At first, it wasn't affecting the engine. Finally when that began to happen, the engine would run terribly as if someone pulled a spark plug wire off. Finally it got so bad at a point (I deliver mail with it), it was stalling every time I stopped at a mailbox. Also you could smell the engine was running very rich.

    After scouring the web for answers, I ended up replacing the TPS and the problem went away (or so I thought). Sadly to say, after a couple of days the problem came back. It was only corrected (in my case) after I discovered the connector that plugs into the TPS had contacts that were "sprung" or weakened by the weight of the wire harness on it. I couldn't wait to order a new one, so with the help of my wife (needed four hands) we disassembled the connector and bent back the female pins so they would grab tight again. Finally the problem was solved!

    Apparently, when first replacing the TPS, I moved the wires enough to make a good connection again, only to last for a few days. By wiggling the wires at the connector, I could make it go from bad to good (and vise versa).

    Hope this helps!

    Nneal
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    BS, BS, and more BS. That's what you're getting from the dealer in my opinion. I had a shifting problem where when I stopped, it would not shift down to first again. If I shifted manually with the shifter, it was alright until I stopped again. I brought it to a transmission shop only to be told I needed a rebuild or new transmission. Later, I made an appointment with a dealer to scan for transmission codes and analyze it. For $100 they told me the same thing. So in my opinion, the shops out there only want to replace or rebuild your transmission because that's where the money is at.

    Finally, with nothing else to lose, I pulled the pan, tested the solenoids, and found one of them bad. I bought a solenoid kit off the web (way cheaper), and my problem was fixed! No thanks to the shops.

    Assuming fluid level is okay, from my experience, I would start out testing the TPS, and if that's not it, test the solenoids. I am a firm believer also, if the transmission is working fine except for misshifts, then it's a part problem and not the whole tranny.

    Nneal
  • cvelozcveloz Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem last night. The car started the first 3 times, but would turn off. Then it just would not turn on at all. I tried it again today and nothing. All the lights, radio, and electronics come on. My key remote also is not working. I just had the car towed to the dealer. Does anyone know if this is covered under the warranty?
  • remjeepremjeep Member Posts: 2
    hi
    just bought jeep grand cherokee, 87000ml, had engine problem, fixed it easy, but now trans is playing. on D it would jump from 1st to 3rd, would need to rev engine quit a bit to to it. and would not go to 4th. but if i would start drive on 2, not on D, it would shift from 1st to 2nd(would still need to rev it hard to get it done) and when driving on 2nd when i change to D, it will shift nicely to 3rd and 4th. no fault codes present, had it check at few garaged and they cant tell whats wrong, they say what need to take gearbox out, look inside. and it would cost a lot.
    and O/D button isn't working, o/d on all the time, but they say it's nothing to do with it. any thoughts?
    thank you for your help
  • dave1968dave1968 Member Posts: 1
    I have to replace the ring and pinion in the front end, the jeep is a quadra trac with 3:73 gears and 249j tranfer case. I have pulled the ring out, both axels and now need to pull the pinion. Please help? I will aslo need help to put the pinion back in place.

    Thanks
    Dave
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    OH YEA! ! !.. sounds like you found the problem-bad connection in the t.p.s-contact- then fixed it!..the only thing i might add is a habit i've gotten into,and coated the contacts with -dielectric grease-..it's non conductive(won't short anything),and keeps contacts from rusting/corroding ...should be at the auto supply,in a tube,or at a electrical supply..i use it whereveri fix a connection,and especially on the trailer hitch plug !..keeps the water out..
    --your tip about the pins on the connector for the throttle position control sounds like exactly the problem..glad you fixed it,and shared it with us!
  • genpattuckgenpattuck Member Posts: 2
    Mine is an auto, 6 cyl, 4x4. When in drive, only the high gears work. I have to start in 1st/2nd then 3rd then up to drive. I was told the solenoids need to be replaced. The tranny is an AW4. Can I try to reset the computer with the negative off the battery, foot on the brake pedal, key in ignition turning on/off 3 times or do the solenoids need to be replaced? Thanks.
  • genpattuckgenpattuck Member Posts: 2
    My cherokee has a factory hole in the column at the top that may have been where the tilt lever was. My cherokee is the bone stock model with reach across locks and crank windows. Could it be missing the lever or was my year/model not have this option?
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    If yours is anything like my 98 Cherokee with an AW4 transmission, I would start off checking the Throttle Position sensor first, then if that's okay, test the solenoids second. Both can be checked with a volt/ohms meter.

    The solenoids can be tested at the wire harness plug coming from the transmission. Make sure it's the right one, and not the harness coming from the shift selector switch Other people have said it can be tested at the plug going into the TCM (Transmission Control Module) under the dash.

    I believe you might be able to view the service manual at Scribd.com to assist you in making these test measurements. If you are comfortable using a volt/ohms meter, then it's fairly simple.

    I've never heard any method of resetting the computer (minus the dealer "flashing" it), unless you're talking about erasing the trouble codes in it.

    Hope this helps.

    Nneal
  • dsummers1dsummers1 Member Posts: 1
    so im new to this forum and desperately need some help. i have a 93 jeep grand cherokee laredo 5.2L V8. I dont know much about trannys and need to know if this is worth fixing. So my jeep has 142000 on it. ok so i noticed a couple times that when i put my car in drive and try to move that sometimes the RPMS will go real high but will not move until i throw the car out of drive and manually into 1st gear. from there i have no issues taking off. if i can take off in drive it takes a real long time to get up to speed. now when i am on the highway driving around 80 the car will shift down all of a sudden even when my foot is on the gas. then finally when i hit 81 it will shift up and start to accelerate again. i dont know what to do. if i sell the car now i will take a major hit money wise. please let me know if you have any suggestion. I am in the military and live in germany so i dont have very good luck getting certain parts over here, so please let me down lightly.

    summers
  • remjeepremjeep Member Posts: 2
    hi
    mine is Quadra-Trac II, would it be the same, and please could you tell me how do i check, what i would bee looking for?
    thank you
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    For the solenoids, you would basically do an ohms test to measure the resistance of the coil in it. This information can be obtained from the correct Transmission or vehicle service manual for your year vehicle. As I've mentioned before, these can be viewed on some websites that show these manuals. link title is one of them.

    Nneal
  • criptonjohncriptonjohn Member Posts: 1
    Help!!!!! my 2000 JGC is sick!!!! when it is cold and you first start it up the transmission does not want to change but once it gets hot it changes and runs as good as ever??? It seems to be more electrical than any thing else I also know that the 6 cyc no 4 whell drive only has the one main computer module with no trans control module has anyone had this problem????
  • trek87trek87 Member Posts: 49
    It is normal for your transmission to handle shifting differently until your transmission fluid reaches normal operating temperature.
  • shady8shady8 Member Posts: 1
    check engine light comes on.changed sylnoids in transmission.Also replaced transmission control module.The jeep drb gets codes of po846 2c pressure & code 945 4c pressure usually after about 50 miles & goes full line pressure.You cannot take off in first when this happens.The dealer wants to replace the transmission for $4000.00 dollars.Any ideas.The transmission normally works fine until now
  • brn_eyesbrn_eyes Member Posts: 4
    ok, i bought a 98 jeep gcl, v6, don't know the engine size. it didn't come with a book to tell me anything or what transmission i have in it. i left today and it just started to act like it was in neautral then it would catch and back and fourth, tried to get it back home. so now it won't go nowhere, i was low on fluid, so what type of damage did i do and do i need to replace or rebuild it?....what kind do i have in it?.. yes i'm a female and no i don't know much about cars. thank you for any help anyone can give me....
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    My 1998 Cherokee shifts differently when operating from cold versus warm operating temperature. When cold, it doesn't shift as soon and "hangs" in gear a little longer before shifting to the next gear.
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    I take it your Jeep is a 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo, but the "v6" doesn't make sense to me. I think it's either a straight inline 6 cylinder or a V8. Sometimes (if it isn't worn off), there's a label under the hood stating the engine size. You can enter your VIN number into the VIN Decoder at link title and see what information that tells you.

    Another thing I would ask is how many miles are on your Jeep? Did these symptoms just start happening suddenly, or was it getting worse little by little?
    After filling the fluid to the proper level, did that make any difference?
  • brn_eyesbrn_eyes Member Posts: 4
    yes it is a straight inline 6, it started yesterday morning when i left, believe me i paronoid with any strange noises or feel of my jeep and this just started when i left. i did'nt get more then a half mile down the road, filled the fluid back up but didn't make a difference, and i can't order a rebuilt kit with out know what size transmission it has....i really do need help. it has right around 145,000 miles on it
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    I forgot to ask...is your Check Engine light on? If so, getting the trouble code (or codes) from the computer would help. Where I live, auto parts places like Autozone will read your vehicle for computer codes for free. I assume similar ones would do it also.

    My best guess on your transmission is a model "42RE" 4 speed automatic. You can confirm this by having someone crawl under your Jeep to look at the label on the transmission.

    I'm assuming you checked the fluid level as described below?:

    ____________________________________________________________________

    MODEL 42RE:

    1. Transmission fluid must be at normal operating temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).

    2. Position vehicle on level surface.

    4. Apply parking brakes.

    5. Shift transmission momentarily into all gear ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.

    6. Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep dirt from entering tube.

    7. Remove dipstick and check fluid level as follows:

    (a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.

    (b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow mark.

    (c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.

    (d) If fluid is low, add only enough Automatic Transmission fluid to restore correct level. Do not overfill.

    ________________________________________________________________________________- ________________________________________________________
  • brn_eyesbrn_eyes Member Posts: 4
    no my light doesn't come on, and i can't take it anywhere if it did. my transmission it feels like it engages for a second, but as soon as you give it fuel to move, move then it just revives up and goes no where....how long does it normally take someone to rebuild a transmission, if i can afford the rebuilt kit.....thanks for all your help
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    Once you make an appointment, some transmission shops can do the job in a few days.

    What you don't want to do, is automatically have your transmission rebuilt without ruling a few other things out first. As I mentioned in a previous post, I brought my Cherokee to both a Transmission shop AND a Dealer, with both telling me they couldn't tell what the problem was, but it needed to be rebuilt. That was back in July 1998 and I'm still driving it today!

    You stated "My transmission it feels like it engages for a second, but as soon as you give it fuel to move, then it just revives up and goes no where". My question is, if you place the shift selector in 1st gear only, does it take off like it should? If it does, that's an indicator it's not the whole transmission, but only a component that needs fixing.

    Here are three major things to check before thinking about a total rebuild:

    * Throttle Position Sensor (can be checked without replacing)

    * Transmission "kickdown" cable (or called transmission throttle cable) - check adjustment.

    * Do a fluid change with filter and check solenoids (ohms test) while oil pan is off transmission.

    A good garage will be able to test this out with no problem. If they don't know how, find one who does. In my opinion, it's worth checking this out before spending $1,200 dollars or more on a rebuilt transmission.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    keep shopping for a REAL transmission tech..
    with the economy in the crapper,every buisness is trying to "maxinise profits",but you also don't want to get into one of those "take it back 19 times,and it;s still not right" ,things
    --check with local people-see who is a good trans medic..
    --my-98 laredo leaked just a little,and had "morning sickness"(untill fluid warmed up,it wouldn't move)-two possibilities come to mind-one-plugged filter or valve body..second-cluches worn,needing rebuilt..
    --wherever you get it fixed-MAKE SHURE YOU GET A WARRANTY !
  • jeepgirl00jeepgirl00 Member Posts: 2
    hey, i am having the same problem, except the it will only go into gear sometimes.. we have had horrible problems with the speed output sensor, and have replaced at least 3 times, bought a new one, and tried to drive the car down the road, and it was fine for a few miles, then all of a sudden, it completely quit working. now it wont go into gear at all. Wheni out it in gear and press the gas, it will try to engage, but wont. Any suggestions??
    its a 2000 grand jeep cherokee straight 6 - 4.0
    i would love some feedback, beacause i would like to try to fix this before i spend tons of money on a new transmisson! thanks!!
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    If it involves your speed sensor, doesn't it make the check engine light come on? I'm curious what the trouble code(s) might be.
  • luperinglupering Member Posts: 9
    Friday morning, about 30 degree's out. Parked in a slanted parking spot where the passenger side is raised a foot higher than the driver side. Vehicle turns on without any problems. No light indicators or computer sensors, sounds or alarms to alert of impending problem.

    Won't shift into any gear, reverse or drive. In a constant neutral. I didn't really give it much time to warm up. Haven't check transmission fluid levels.

    Can anyone give me a heads up as to what the possibilities are?

    Please keep in mind there were absolutely no warning signs of any shifting problem. Didn't hear or feel anything the night before on the drive home.
  • jeepgirl00jeepgirl00 Member Posts: 2
    omg..my car is basically doin the same thing!!! 2000 GJC, exxcept it started shifting into gear a little rough the day before, now, it wont do anything!!!!

    i called a machanic, and he said that it sounds like an electrical problem. hes coming to check it out tomorrow
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    If you are not a DIYer, ask a mechanic about the following

    Check your fluid level HOT.

    Make sure the cable from the shift lever to the transmission is properly adjusted. You may think you are in Drive, but the lever slips back into Neutral without you knowing it because it's not really in the position you think it is. It's only half way.

    Another potential culprit is the park neutral safety switch. Make sure it works OK.

    If your symptoms involve brief periods where it is OK and then craps out, look for loose or corroded ground wire related to any electrical connections.

    Inspect contacts of connectors looking for anything that could cause poor contact (e.g. dirt, corossion). Don't try to physically clean a contact; you could damage it. Use a spray contact cleaner (techni-tool.com).

    If a contact looks bent out of place, you have no choice but to try and bend it back.

    Last spring I replaced the rear wiper motor on my jeep, but the problem turned out to be the contacts for the switch in the dash.

    Try the cheap solutions first. Go to the transmission shop as the last resort.
  • brn_eyesbrn_eyes Member Posts: 4
    is it possiable to just have a something wrong where it won't hold fluid, i pushed it back and noticed fluid on the ground, where it was parked. so if its not holding fluided could that cause my problem
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    yep !..automatic transmissions burn up REAL QUICK when they'r run low-or out of fluid..that's why they put a DIPSTICK on them !..
  • cbsharkcbshark Member Posts: 4
    2000 GC Limited, 4.7L. When sitting at a traffic light, my transmission will bump so hard that it feels like I've been rear ended. Also notice delays when shifting to R or D, and occasionally it seems to be hung up in 2nd gear when pulling away from idle. I need help fast, it seems to be getting worse. Fluid levels look fine, clean (light pink). I've read enough here to hope that it may be the TPS, solenoids or a cable. Really hoping to avoid the high price of a rebuild. Not afraid to get dirty, but I need direction. Any clues? How do I check the TPS? What am I looking for?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how long a go that you changed oil could be filter part pluged
  • cbsharkcbshark Member Posts: 4
    2300 miles ago. I'm close enough to 3k that I'll go ahead and change it if that's even remotely a possibility. Change the transmission fluid/filter too?
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    Here's a video on the TPS you might want to check out:

    link title
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    ment the trans as that is the prob change the trans filters also it has t filters a flat one and one that looks like a small can
  • why66why66 Member Posts: 1
    My car stops for no reason when I decelerate to turn corners, enter an on-ramp to get on the highway. I bought it with 46K miles and it now has 68K. What do you think this could be? Goodyear couldn't find anything when I took it to them twice after it stopped. When it starts up again, it runs fine until it stops without warning...The steering wheel just locks and I know what's about to happen.

    What do you think is happening?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    do you mean that the steering gets hard to turn?

    or does the steering wheel lock and not be able to turn?
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    Is it possible to change a 249J transfer box to a 242J on a 1994 Grand Cherokee Limited?

    If so, are there any modifications needed on the new box?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    If you have 4x4 I suggest you evaluate the transfer case to make sure it is not causing or contributing to the problem. If you've never dropped the pan and changed filter, you can try that first.

    Suggest you evaluate engine (compression test) and then decide on transmission. Remanufactured trans is less risky than rebuild but I don't know the costs. I had a trans rebuilt by a Dodge dealer, but it was their car and their extended warranty.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    your trans has no cables all controled by computer

    in engine compartment on the left side when you look from the front way to the back right beside what looks like a thermouse bottle you see a large bunch of wires hooked into a box have found that the conection will get loose and allow water from the acculmater to enter and crode the conection (i unhooked the battery and took the conection apart and pluged and unpluged a few times then coated with dilectric greese put back together took care of my rough shifting on my 2000 jeep gr cher
  • eldon15eldon15 Member Posts: 1
    light pink transmission fluid means it's contaminated with water. you should stop driving the truck and see if you can't flush out the water from the system. transmission fluid should look a clear red even as bad as a dark red with addative. black means it's burnt, but pink is water, and most likely a transmission rebuild. I'm stuck in the same situation, but mkine is older and won't shift out of second. hopefully i helped. bring it to a tranny shop and let the pro's deal with it.
  • hunterbayehunterbaye Member Posts: 2
    Just had a Complete Transmission Flush ( $380) at a Chrysler dealer
    and when driving home the transmission makes a Thud/Clunk noise when coming to a stop. It will not do it when I put it in netural- and if I stop when going less than 30 MPH. Any suggestions.
  • robodeauxrobodeaux Member Posts: 1
    '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Tranny pan seal was leaking, had it replaced and tranny flushed. Still leaks! I was driving and lost all power to the wheels. Has plenty of fluid. Transmission Control Module bad?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    first,$380 is a high price for a trans flush/fill-i called aamco,and their regular price-for my gcl,was $120..with the synthetic fluid,
    --so,-take it back to them,and see what they screwed up..
    --then again,sometimes things break when you fix other things..could be totally unrelated,but because they happened just after you had something fixed-maybe the other parts got jealous?(lol)
    -
  • cbsharkcbshark Member Posts: 4
    ***UPDATE***

    After reading all of your suggestions, I figured it'd be worth it to drop the pan, change the filters and fluid and test the solenoids. I didn't have to go that far. When I crawled under the Jeep to get started, I found the cable that runs from the driver's side of the transmission to the gear selector in the cabin loose. I don't know the precise name of the parts, but this cable moves a lever on the side of the transmission when you select P,R,N,D,1 OR 2. It wasn't connected at all, but was simply laying next to it's connection. It's just a rubber boot on the end of the cable that pushes over a ball pin type of connection. I pushed it back on, had my wife turn the key on (but not the engine!) and go through the gears while I watched from beneath. Everything looked fine, so I test drove it and am happy to report that so far so good!!! No more delay when putting it in gear, no more rough downshifts at traffic lights. I'm curious to know how the thing was moving at all without that cable connected, but I'm assuming the computer can recognize the position of the gear selector and was doing it's best to handle the shifts accordingly?

    In any event it works! Thanks for all of your suggestions and tips.
  • cbsharkcbshark Member Posts: 4
    Your problem sounds similar to mine. Check out message #415. I found a shift cable on the driver's side of the transmission that wasn't connected on mine. Pushed it back and so far I haven't had anymore issues.
  • 99jgcl399jgcl3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99JGCL and lately while I'm driving it seems that the transmission uncouples for a quick second then re-engages making my car jolt. Sometimes it does this 2 or 3 times in a row. The engine is still running and nothing seems to be nothing wrong with it. It is like I'm switching from D to N and then back in D really quick. Today is did it really bad, about 3 times successively and more pronounced then before and during one of the jolts the "Check Engine" light came on. I made it home without any other problems, shut the engine off but when I restarted it a minute later the "Check Engine" light was still on. I cannot correlate this to temperature, distance, time of travel, or anything else, it's never consistent.

    I don't need to drive the car for another day so if anyone has any suggestions in the mean time please let me know. Most of my driving is on highway and this is worrisome. Another thing, (I've had this problem for some time) from time to time it seems there is a lag in the gears shifting. For example I'm coming to a full stop and anywhere from 1 to 3 seconds after I'm at a full stop the transmission shifts into the low gear. No problems shifting while accelerating or slowing down, this happens only when I come to a stop, i.e. red light. Are these 2 problems related?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    seems to be a reocuring problem with that series of drand cherokee laredo-those german designed-american components and workers..my-98 has been pretty good so far(knock wood)..
    --check some of the previous posts about tranz troubles..
    --seems the connector that controls the shifting-cause it's all eletronic-to shift from drive to park..
    --aparently, one cure is -find the eletrical plug that goes to th trans..unplog it,and look at the contacts..-break out out your trusty swiss army knife-scrape the contacts clean, put a glob of dielectric grease in there-to keep them from corroding yor contacts again--put it back together again,and give it a shot?
    -- :shades:
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