Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

1101113151621

Comments

  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    My jeep shop manual has a troubleshooting guide and one section is for delayed shift. They list 14 possible causes and I don't see how a dealer could overlook them, except for 1 possibility that sounds really odd.

    DELAYED ENGAGEMENT FROM NEUTRAL TO DRIVE

    CAUSE: Torque converter drain back (oil drains from torque converter into transmission sump).

    CORRECTION: If vehicle moves normally after 5 secs after shifting into gear, no repair is necessary. If longer, inspect pump bushing for wear. Replace pump house
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i would remove front drive shaft and try it first see if prob goes away
  • jgingerjginger Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a trans for my 98 Grand Cherokee, come to find out it is a 43re.
    I believe that my trans is a 42re, can someone tell me what the diff is and if it will
    work in my 98.
    thanks
  • flashjabbarflashjabbar Member Posts: 1
    Hello mtylerjr ,

    My issue(s) are almost identical to yours! I just purchased an 05 JGC with the 3.7 V6. I have an identical shutter around 40-43 mph or 1400 - 1500 rpms. I also purchased a 3rd Party Extended Warranty through the dealer ( 4 years/ 50,000 miles ).

    I'm curious if I could get your advice on how best to handle this issue? I'd like the warranty to cover it but I'm hesitant to go in right away based on your experience... I've read some other posts where the dealer / mechanic says 'that's just the way jeeps are' but it sounds like your issues were fixed? Do you think I'd be better of 'living with it' for a few months and then taking it in?

    Any advice you have would be GREATLY appeciated! :(
  • mtylerjrmtylerjr Member Posts: 8
    I dont really know what advice to offer. If the shudder is minor, the warranty company may not want to do anything. If it is major (sounds like grinding) and the mechanic agrees something needs to be replaced, you are better waiting (according to my mechanic) for at least a month or so before making a claim, so they dont pull the "preexisting condition" thing.

    In my case, the warranty company and dealership both chipped in about $800 towards my $2750 repair, but made me sign a release form promising not to sue them just to get that much. After that, I realized I probably did have a legal claim, but it was just so much hassle.

    Just 2 weeks ago, the jeep started making whining noises that I thought was the transmission again, but turned out to be a bad belt tensioner and a failing AC compressor coil. When they replaced the tensioner and took the bad coil off, it not only got quiet, my MPG went up by 3MPG - apparently the thing has been dragging the belt even while not being used, for the past 15000 miles... doh! But it runs better now.

    Good luck with your jeep. Sorry I couldnt offer any more advice.
  • ileanayaniileanayani Member Posts: 1
    I am interesting in 2010 grand cherokee but i am worry about the transmission..
    I have 2 persons related to me that have jeep cherokee and in the past both have problem with the transmission.The person in the dealer told me they fixed tha problem. Is that true.
  • jackson1679jackson1679 Member Posts: 2
    Mine has been in the shop several times and it is still not fixed. I have simply learned to live with it.
  • mike7904mike7904 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently been getting a thumping sound at times when I am about to stop the vehicle. I have no problems accelerating or while I am moving. Just every now and then right as I am about to stop I get the thump. The shop I go to to get my oil changed said that it may be my speed sensor and suggested a quart of Lucas Trans fix. Any thoughts?
  • jlperssyjlperssy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 jgc limited with a 5.9 it has a 46re or a 518 tranny drove it that morning went back out that eve and wont go in R but still have drive is there some thing i can check before i spend 1000$ + on a tranny
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    You probably won't need to spend "1000$". The reverse on my '98 GCL locked up and my local garage drained the tranny and fitted a new 'kit'. The whole rebuild cost me just 5,000 pesos - less than 500 USD. You then have to remember to change the tranny oil every 5,000 miles, or earlier if you've given it a hard time and overheated it.
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hi guys, I have a 2000 model Grand Cherokee 4.7 v8. It seems that it wants to slip out of overdrive when it wants, and changes down to 2nd also. As I understand it, this is a bands type autobox and therefore there must be some ajustment possible. Anyone have any other ideas? Where would I get the information on what the proceedure is? A Chysler shop breakdown manual or something? Could I download it online? Or does someone who works as a mechanic at a Jeep dealer know how to do this and could tell me? Thanks in advance for any info.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    mor than likely you need to replace the solenoid pack as there is no band adjustment on the trans all shifts are controlled by the computer
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hi, thanks for that information. Is this solenoid pack something I can fit myself? And, is it a gearbox out job? pretty heavy!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    no just remove pan an filters here is link to look

    athttp://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
  • chief40chief40 Member Posts: 4
    The shop I bought it from replaced the tranny with a used one. everything worked fine for a month. Went to pick up some fishing gear, at 65 mph there was a bad thunk , the tach went above 3000 and then came back down to 2000. I checked the fluid , there was a pint too much. I removed it. haven't had OD since. It also shudders, in reverse every once in a while.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I have a 93 GC with a 6. Sometimes when it has been driven for awhile it will not go into first. If I use the shifter and manually put it into first position it works fine. I then shift it into second and it goes in with a jolt unless I am accelerating. So I have started driving like I have manual shifter and all is great. What would cause it to sometime not go automatically into first when I come to a full stop. It takes off like I am in second and then sometimes it jerks a few times into first. As I wrote this only happens when I just leave the lever in Drive. Always shifts fine if I use the shifter to place it in first. I am scheduled to have all the fluid replaced and new filter. A total flush and replace. Does anyone think this will help? Is there any adjustments to bands etc. with this years Tranny?

    Thanks
  • bluntime_6905bluntime_6905 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 jeep grand cherokee limited v8...my trans was doin same thing so i got a used one and when i took the old one out the planitary gear..had all the gears stripped off of it...if u do change yours make sure and flush the trany cooler and line..i made the mistake of not doin the and now im back at square one ...good luck
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hi Guys, I have to report an amazing story. My faulty transmission is now miraculously fixed, and without spending any money. I was hunting around to find out where I could get a solenoid kit from, as was advised this was probably my problem, when a guy Called Steve Burnett from Cheshire in England suggested I try something. Stamp on the throttle peddle violently and repeatedly for a minute. I did this, and god damn it, it worked. Now I have faultless changes, and the car doesn't slip out of overdrive or change down when it feels like it. The reason, I am told, by this guy Steve, who I am very greatful to, is that as the box is computer controlled, some of the connections which operate the actuators, on the throttle system can get dirty. The violence gets the dirt off!!!!! A superb suprise for me, no money spent on solenoid kit, or a costly rebuilt. And guys, I just was wondering how many people had payed for a rebuild or new box, when in fact the problem was this? Think about that. Lastly, thanks for any advice given, as I'm sure there are other problems with theses symtoms.
  • pleightpleight Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo...a few months ago my jeep start making a really funny noise and I am not sure if it is the transmission. I had the motor and rear end replaced last year and they both have about 40,000 miles on them. The transmission has 155,000 miles on it and was serviced last year.

    When accelerating from a complete stop it starts making a noise of a stick in a fan until you get to about 30 mph then it stops until you accelerate to pass someone and then it will start back up until you let off the gas. When accelerating at a very very slow pace it works fine. The transmission is not skipping or shifting hard. Fluid levels are good. No service engine light is on.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Are you sure noise is from transmission? If not, you could be hearing a tapping valve.
  • pleightpleight Member Posts: 2
    I can not tell exactly where the noise is coming from because it only does it when accelerating. I can narrow it down that it is coming from the front half of the jeep. It is not a tapping noise. It sounds like you put a stick in a box fan. Hard to explain the exact noise.
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hi, that sounds to me like the gasket between the head and exhaust manufold has a slight blow on one tube. Only when you accelerate, is there enough force to make this happen, hence the noise. Check it out by disconnecting the spark plug lead from each sparkplug, one at a time, and drive it down the road. The non firing plug will not produce the click on the cylinder that is affected if this is indeed the problem. Let me know.
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    1998 GCLtd 5.2 litre V8: Looks like fuel problem but changed pump and relay, blown out the pipes but all I get is half a second of engine run then it cuts and won't fire again. Pressed valve on feeder pipe to injectors but only a small amount of fuel flows out. Some help would be appreciated.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    This just started a few months ago. Does not act up when cold...only when warmed up. Sometimes it will not go back into first when you come to a complete stop. Sometimes it will grab first and then dis-engage and then back...like it is popping in and out of first. If I manually put the gear shift into first position it works and then I shift up to second and to drive or 3rd and it works just fine. It is acting like it can't decide to go into first when it has to do it on it's own...however that is done. Anyone know? Is it a computer module or a sensor?
    I am going to have it fully serviced with a complete fluid change and new filter since it has not been done is a long time and has 145000 miles.
    Question: Is there any bands that have to be adjusted? I know it is important to use the correct fluid. What fluid is recommended for this transmission and what is the adjustment process if there is one?

    Thanks
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    A bad coil might fire a couple of times and quit after that. By doing that it imitates a fuel problem.
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    Tranny solenoids if bad will "act up" when going through a temperature change (from cold to operating temperature).
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be the key shutdoun as if not reading the chip in the key remove all other stuff from key ring use only the key see if it sees the key when you turn on the switch by the light going out on the dash
  • tommy939tommy939 Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    Hi, I'm Tommy. I just bought JGC 2004, 4,0l Inline six. About 3 weeks ago, I put wrong transmission fluid (Dextron). And 3 days ago my car got problem on 2nd gear. Seems like bump shift on 2nd gear,but still can shift up to 3rd. And now, my car won't change gear. Still at 1st gear and won't shift up. What should I do now? And got P1762 fault code. I want to change the fluid into Mopar ATF+4, and should I replace oil transmission filter as well? And how about speed sensor, do I have to replace it?
    Thank's.
  • tommy939tommy939 Member Posts: 2
    I also have the same symptom. So what should I do? Coz here in my country I got no qualify trans shop.
  • rvjrvj Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 JGC. Very nice vehicle. Issue is at approximately 50-60 mph if you accelerate softly there is a very noticeable shaking, hard to tell where it is originating from. It also does it to a lessor degree when de accelerating from this speed.
    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    Are these expensive and are they something that could easily be replaced when the pan is off to do the fluid change or are they located else where? I am pretty good at mechanics and have changed a few engines and rebuilt a few but transmissions are another animal and just do not have a good place to work on. But can do what I have to if it will save me hundreds of $$$

    Thanks
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    You can test the solenoids by measuring their ohm's reading. On the AW4 transmission (not sure what you've got) they can be accessed and seen after the filter inside the pan is removed. The ohm's test "range" can be obtained from the transmission service manual. This link title shows a pic of the measurement method using the multimeter. Many solenoids are kept in place with one bolt and can be pulled out to replace once the bolt (and wire) are removed. If you search on the web you can find decent prices either on individual solenoids or (in my case) a complete kit of three.

    Googling as in my case "AW4 manual" resulted in many hits for viewing the transmission manual. I was told by both a transmission shop and the Jeep dealer I needed to rebuild my transmission. Neither one could (or wouldn't) tell me what was wrong with it. With nothing to loose, I checked the solenoids myself and have been running with the same transmission ever since, and that was in 2008.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I will pass this onto the mechanic who is going to replace the fluid and check it out. I hope they will take the lead and check out the solenoids.

    Thanks!!
  • trose7trose7 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 jeep Grand Cherokee with 148,000 miles. Lately the car has been revving and the gears not catching primarily in the overdrive gear but sometimes at a lower gear as well. This problem only occurs when it is hot outside and the car itself is hot. We looked at the trans fluid which is fine in both color and smell, however it is overfilled and bubbly. I am aware that an overfilled trans can cause the fluid to be bubbly, but I am also concerned that it is an actual problem with the transmission. The mechanic does not recommend a drain and fill since it is an older car and it could be a trans problem. What should we do?!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be a trans prob but drain and new filters and oil is a lot cheaper than a rebuilt trans go for the cheep first
  • victorclesivictorclesi Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    THE ENGINE WAS SWAPPED. THE TRANSMISSION WAS TROUBLE FREE. AFTER THE SWAP THE TRANSMISSION QUIT WORKING ANY IDEA WHERE TO START.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited June 2010
    Look at any cables or wires that go between the transmission and other engine components like the throttle, engine computer, etc. I never pulled a transmission so I don't know how the flywheel and torque converter go together. I dropped the pan and replaced transmission filter on my truck. I was very cautious about refilling it to make sure I didn't overfill it. I observed that before fluid reached an adequate level, it wouldn't shift at all. Also, because they are physically in the way, they had to disconnect transmission lines to the cooler. If they are now leaking, the transmission would work OK when they delivered it, but loss of fluid may disable it. Remember, you must check fluid level HOT.
  • chief40chief40 Member Posts: 4
    Sounds like you have a broken motor mount, and the fan is hitting the shroud.
  • redneck56redneck56 Member Posts: 2
    When you hooked up motor to trans did you make sure torque convertor was pushed back into pump on trans. They dont give you much room but this is very important item to watch.Sounds like there could be binding problem in that area.
  • redneck56redneck56 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Tommy had same problem on a 1996 4 wd trans. Turned out to be torque convertor. Drop pan and see if you have metal in it. Also upgrade fluid to ATF-4 newer trans hate dextron even if the book says you can get away with it. Hope this helps. Good trans shop can also read code and narrow down, mine completely rebuilt mine for $700.00 on bench i did all labor which is not that hard.
  • pacman8pacman8 Member Posts: 2
    Bought this 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 3.7L a few months back. During the test drive it ran smooth and shifted like a dream. It has 74K miles on it and recently started acting strange at the 1300 - 1500 rpm range. mostly with light throttle and starting up a slight grade. the tach is jumping up and down while the Jeep is surging or bucking. The dealer has looked at it twice. Re programed the computer and said it was torque shudder and just manually shift it at a higher rpm cause it shifts into overdrive too soon. Dealer also suggested a bottle of Lucas Tans fix. After adding the additive it has gotten worse. It now is making a growl or chatter noise when it's doing it's surging. I asked the dealer if a trans service would help and he said that it might be a good idea at this mileage. I see alot of other people having the same problems but what was the solutions? Or is there a solution? Thanks in advance for any advise you may have.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I read all about the Lucas trans fix and it is important to use the right one. I believe there are three types. Might be good to do a total flush that will get ALL the fluid out from the tranny and the torque convertor. The filter actually get pretty cleaned out in the process.
    I have a 93 with a 6 and it does this trying to go into first gear but never fails if I manually put it into first. This makes me think it might be electrical but the solenoids can do this as well so I have been told.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC I bought in 2000 with 70K on it and I didn't have any transmission trouble until 170K this year. I serviced the trans myself 2-3 times only dropping the pan, but the filter got changed. I never did the flush. Dropping the pan is a PITA, but it's the only way to change the filter. I'd rather drain 50% of fluid and change the filter than drain 100% of the fluid. I see 100% fluid drain as a preventive measure more than a remedy.

    If I really liked the car and had lost faith in repair shops, I would buy the 2006 shop manual and read the whole chapter on transmission. My manual has over 120 pages just on transmission. Read the troubleshooting sections. What can you check with the trans still in the vehicle? Cables? Wiring?

    Maybe operation in 1 or 2 will help you learn more.

    If the trans has its own computer, make sure the ground and power wires are OK. You need a good voltmeter.

    It's a difficult situation. I believe its $500 in labor just to pull and re-install a transmission, but it seems way too soon to have to do a rebuild.

    If you get it resolved, please update the thread for our benefit.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I was told that a good flush of all the fluid with a power flush and cleaner is better since the filter is mainly a wire mess affair and not like an oil filter. This gets all the fluid out not just 50% or so.
    I think I will get the manual for my 93 since I know how bad grounds and such can cause problems....Saturns have a problem when the ground or plus is corroded on the battery. It really screws up the whole running of the engine since it is all controlled by a computer, even the accelerator...not mechanical.

    Thanks
  • yrrrdaddy1yrrrdaddy1 Member Posts: 2
    Where can I get a trans dip stick for my 06 jgc?
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    I'm sure the Jeep dealer has them. Not sure if they'll give you the run-a-round trying to order one though. I found one in a parts list downloaded from the web. Also found them on Ebay. I'm sure if you ask around you'll find more sources. Trying to "Google" them doesn't turn up much as they're sold primarily by vendors to garages. There's not much to them and expect to pay around 50 bucks or more. Here's one on Ebay (link title) although not necessarily for your GC. Also, get instructions on their use as the vehicle has to be within a certain temperature range when taking a reading.
  • n3tukn3tuk Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced the engine,cam and crankshaft sensors,spark plugs and new transmission fluid,after all tranny wont shift at all,any help will be appreciate it?
    codes P0700,P0138 and open circuit message
  • hsr1hsr1 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1998 r reg jeep grand cherokee automatic 4.o model and when i try to reverse the bugger wont go into reverse it wont move and i cant seem to fathom the problem out it drives perfect but is a pain i cant get the reverse gear to work
    :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    hsr1, I had a similar event on my '98 GCL - wheels all locked up to in reverse and went ahead just fine. A local mechanic drained the gearbox and installed a new kit of solenoids. Put in new oil and filters and it's been just fine since. If you don't change the oil about every 8 - 10 k miles it burns and the solenoids stick.
    Cost me just under 400 USD down here in Mexico.
  • hsr1hsr1 Member Posts: 3
    what i was actually meaning is when i put drive into reverse it will not move an inch even in reverse gear wondered what the actual prob could be i have a 98 jeep gcl on a uk plate has me baffled
Sign In or Register to comment.