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Comments
here are the codes of what is coming up
1757 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Zero pressure problem)
1762 The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations
In earlier posts you mentioned having electrical problems, which I wasn't aware of at the time I read about your transmission problem. Was the electrical problem ever fixed? If it wasn't, that could most likely be carrying over and affecting your transmission operation as well.
Also, have you had a garage read the codes from the TCU (transmission computer) with a DRB scanner? That can analyze and check many of the components without taking the transmission apart. Some mechanic shops have that scanner, so going to the dealer is not always necessary.
Check out this link which explains the operation of the transmission for the standard transmission used by a '97 Grand Cherokee with the 6 cylinder engine.
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/july98/techtips.htm
I hope the replaced starter does it for you though!
Anyone else out there that had this issue and it ended up being fixed??
In addition, pretty certain this is related, but my wife says that the car will just shut itself off when driving at very low speeds and up a hill...
Does anyone know why this is happening? I took it to the Dealer and they can't reproduce the problem.
I've been researching a bunch of forums and this problem seems to happen to otehr people but there is never a definitive answer to how a dealer fixed the issue once and for all.
Any help with tis would be appreciated.
Thanks.
In addition, pretty certain this is related, but my wife says that the car will just shut itself off when driving at very low speeds and up a hill...
Does anyone know why this is happening? I took it to the Dealer and they can't reproduce the problem.
I've been researching a bunch of forums and this problem seems to happen to otehr people but there is never a definitive answer to how a dealer fixed the issue once and for all.
Any help with tis would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Super helpful. Did changing the TCM finally fix the problem for good?
I'm having a few quirks with my Jeep and I'm not real familiar with it, so I kinda need to bounce some ideas off of someone. I have a 96 grand cherokee limited with a 5.2 V8 and an automatic transmission with a manual transfer case that goes from 4whl HI, N, and 4whl LO.
I was driving home and I noticed I was getting some serious white smoke behind me. I made it home and checked my oil and my coolant, no transference was evident. Oil wasn't milky, so I don't suspect the head gasket. I checked the transmission fluid though and it was bone dry. Then I checked around the engine bay some more and noticed red fluid all over the place, which I can only guess is transmission fluid.
I did some more poking around and found that the one of the two lines going to the cooler is fairly loose. I did a little more tooling around in there and it looks like it's just leaking from where the line goes from a hard line to a rubber hose.
Has anyone had this kind of problem before, and does my trouble shooting sound about right? I price checked the lines (full assemblies) and it's $40 for the lower, and $60 for the upper. My guess is that this should be about a $300 repair at a transmission shop, but I know how mechanics can be - I myself am a former marine that used to fix helicopters, so I know just how miserable some repairs can be, and this looks like the kind of repair thats going to become a pain in the butt. I can't imagine I'd charge less than that for me to fix it (if I knew how). Any one ever come across something like this with their jeep? If I take it to an auto mechanic, about how much do you think would be a fair price for the repair?
I appreciate any help you guys can give!
- Will
I've done this repair. You have to lay on your back so yes, it's a PITA. But compared to some procedures, cutting off old hose is easy.
Otherwise, I suggest you look into getting the transmission flushed. It probably needs it. You have to disconnect these lines to flush it so incremental cost to put new line on should be small.
You can ask transmission shop.
1. Throttle linkage misadjusted
2. Accelerator pedal travel restricted (make sure it's not hung up on floor mat).
3. Valve body hydraulic pressures too high or low
4. Governor circuit electrical fault
5. Valve body malfunction (sticky shift valve
6. TPS malfunction (throttle position sensor ?)
7. PCM malfunction
Sounds like it can be repaired without rebuilding entire transmission.
There are other reasons your transmission could be acting up like this (especially since it might be a different transmission), but I thought I'd let you know what mine turned out to be.
I believe you can do this yourself by turning the key to the on position, (Don't start the car) and then turn it off-on, off-on, off-on within 5 seconds. It should give you the code in the odometer.
STUCK IN LOW (WILL NOT UPSHIFT)
1. Throttle linkage misadjusted or stuck
2. Gearshift linkage out of adjustment
3. Governor component electrical fault
4. Front band out of adjustment
5. Clutch or servo malfunction.
Watch out if you go to a trans shop. 1,2 & 4 are small $ repairs. They will give you a $$$ repair and do the small repair and you won't know the difference. You might be better off at the dealer, especially if you bought it there.
I suspect your check engine light is a symptom. Go to autozone and have them read the code. They do it for free.
also looks as if you have a 42re trans also has band adjustments on that trans
think you have a 42re as 45rfe was used in 4x4 jeeps and dosent have a governor pressure sensor on it
thank you
Have somebody (other than the trans shop) inspect your CV joints and drive shaft before you buy a transmission. The boots on CV joint should be dry. If wet, it means they are loosing lubricant.
I have had it into the dealership several times. The dealer agrees that there is a problem; it has happened to him. However, he just says that it is a Jeep thing and there is nothing that can be done about it.
Still I have spend over $700 trying to correct the problem, all to no avail. Any thoughts?
2 - 3 seconds when shifting from reverse to drive seems like an eternity when you're on the street. The manual for my AW4 states "Engagement time in D range should be a maximum of 1.2 seconds. Engagement time for reverse should be a maximum of 1.5 seconds". Hope this is of some help.
If I was working on it myslef in nothing to lose mode, I would remove the transfer case and examine it.