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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    hsr1, Unable to drive back out of my garage because of the gearbox problem, I had the GCL towed out. The wheels had locked and wouldn't turn. Left quite a mark on the garage floor. However, if that is your problem, your cure may well be the same as mine. If I read correctly and you live in UK, I am sure the cure would cost you more than it did for me here in Mexico. Perhaps a scrap yard tour is the answer to find a new unit. Good luck
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hello mate. Probably the gearbox needs a new solenoid pack. This is reasonably cheap if you can do it yourself, about 100 quid
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    The following info comes from the troubleshooting chart in my 97 Jeep shop manual for symptoms "No reverse, but drive OK.
    1. Gearshift cable misadjusted
    2. Park Sprag sticking
    3. Valve body malfunction
    4. Rear servo malfunction
    5. Direct clutch in Overdrive worn
    6. Front clutch burnt

    Take a close look at no. 1. Over the years I have observed my cable stretching so that the position changes and the indicator no longer lines up perfectly. Once in a while I think I have it in drive, but it's not and I have to move it further.
  • champion09champion09 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee. Over the last year, beside the check engine light being on. I'd step on the gas and it wouldn't get out of 1st gear. It would go a week or a month and the problem would disappear. I'd pull over, shut down the car, wait 5 minutes and the car wouldn't have any problems, sometimes for a day, or again for a week.

    So I went to town on the accelerator as you suggested. Didn't do anything. Parked the car, came back a few hours later and it know works fine. Not sure if almost spraining my knee, from beating up the pedal worked. Keep you posted.

    Do you pound on the pedal, when the car is on, off, in drive. Please advise.
  • champion09champion09 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had a problem with the transmission not shifting out of 1st or 2nd into 3rd. It can happen sometimes, but then go away. No rhyme or reason.

    Also the average gas mileage is only 11.5 mostly city driving. Any thoughts. Thinking its due to the problem with the transmission, but not sure.

    Hooked up to the computer, says that the transmission is fine..maybe the solenoid or something associated with the computer.

    I'd really appreciate someone diagnosing and letting me know what the fix is. Even violently worked over the pedal, due to a post that said its possible that the solenoid is dirty. Have approx 81k miles on the car..
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    My 1993 JGC will run fine until it gets warm and then it will not go into first at a stop sign or light. Sometimes it will jump in and out of first as you take off but if you grab the shifter and manually pull it into first is grabs and then you shift into second and third and it works fine. Not sure how getting hot works in the transmission and causes the problem...but it is pretty consistent. Has about 140,000 miles and the last time the transmission was serviced was at about 75,000. Wonder if it is a mechanical problem or electrical....am thinking of having the power flush to see if that helps. Any ideas? Stomping on the gas pedal is done with the car turned off...right?
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Hi, Basically I pound the pedal on , off, in gear, out of gear, had to do it on several occaision before the problem completely dissappeared, but now the box works fine.
  • tyler30tyler30 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 93 grand cherokee the tranmissions wont hold fluid when i start offf its changes gears fine after a few minutes it wont change gears cant fugure out why any suggestions
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    When you say it won't hold fluid where does it go? I mean without fluid all bets are off. Can you manually shift into gears with the shifter? If you have a major leak then that has to be fixed first.
  • jennniferrrrrrjennniferrrrrr Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me if a select trac tranmission out of a 93 jeep cherokee will work in a 97 jeep grand cherokee that also has a select trac transmission
  • chesapeake3chesapeake3 Member Posts: 1
    I've a 95 Grand Cherokee that sat for 2 1/2 years. With a new battery it started right up but was low on transmission fluid and the trans was slippling. Added fluid and it ran great for two days then started slipping again. Checked and fluid was low again, refilled. Did not see any leakage.
    This cycle went on for about a week - can not see any leakage. Now it won't go forward in any gear and the fluid is again very low. I can't figure out where it's going . Any ideas??
  • boazbezboazbez Member Posts: 14
    Leakage could be from the tranny, the hydraulic hoses from the tranny to the radiator or in the radiator itself. I'd check the hoses and the radiator. (I had the hoses leak on me and had to replace them.)
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Very strange. Has the vehicle got a sealed bellhousing? If so try cracking a few bellhousing nuts, see if the tranny fluid leaks out the gap, as the seal between torque converter and box may be gone. If not, and there is no smell of burnt tranny fluid, it is a mystery for sure where it's going.
  • justus8justus8 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 1995 grand cherokee 4x4 with a 5.2 liter V8 that needs a transmission what I need to know is will a trans. that's behind a straight 6 or V6 work?; is it the same trans?; and will a later model work also? :confuse:
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    In a word, Nope, you need that same box
  • gwangegwange Member Posts: 1
    Hi,Anyone know what is causing the engine to run with less power.Engine light comes on when starting and turbo dies until i`ve driven a couple of miles. turned ignition off and back on then it`s ok.Can anyone help
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I believe check engine light always comes on briefly when you start so that you can verify the the bulb is not burned out. You need to buy a code reader and see if you can pull any trouble codes out of it. Some codes have to persist before check engine light will stay on, but you can still retrieve them. Obviously if the light stays on there will always be a code you can retrieve. See if the turbo charger has any electrical connections. Inspect the wire and connector. The whole problem sounds electrical.
  • sdnative3sdnative3 Member Posts: 1
    I am not a mechanic, I am a single mom. Feel like I'm getting the run around. Took 2006 Jeep Laredo to family mechanic...told me codes and sent me to dealer convinced both covered under warranty.
    Dealer said not covered under warranty but possibly under extended warranty. One code is ATC sensor. So took it back to mechanic to fix under warranty but mechanic having problems getting parts. Warranty is talking about ATF parts but mechanic said there are no ATF parts because car is so new BUT THEN mechanic got national bulletin from Chrysler on how to fix the problem tried it but didn't work. Does anyone know what I'm talking about or what I should do? Planning to go back to service manager at Jeep Dealer.
  • killeenkilleen Member Posts: 1
    I have just purchased a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee when i first drive it its fine but after a few miles the speedo stops and the transmission is stuck in one gear it does rectify itself but not for very long what could be the problem any ideas please
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Please clarify ATC and ATF if I am wrong. I assume ATC is automatic temperature control so it is part of climate control system. Without the Chrysler shop manual which probably costs $200 or not available, it will be very hard for independent mechanic to trouble shoot climate control system.

    OBD codes don't always directly identify what's causing the problem. Frequently it only reports the first symptoms.

    If you don't pinpoint the problem, then you end up guessing at solution which is what happened to you. Guessing gets expensive if the guess does not work. You can continue to guess or pay the dealer. Another option is to make yourself be the temperature controller by turning knobs to raise or lower a/c. My guess is the dealer will charge at least $500 to fix this problem because of the time it will take to troubleshoot.

    Don't be surprised if the dealer replaces the sensor you had installed because in many cases, to be compatible, a part has to do more than just look similar. Or the part you installed was an after market part with poor quality or possible doa when it was installed.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Make sure shifter is in Drive. Sometimes the cable stretches and the mechanism wears so the indicator starts to look a little inaccurate. Make sure you don't go past D. Go from park to Neutral, and then slowly move it to D, but also make sure it is firmly in D and see if that helps. If it does, your shift lever cable may need adjustment.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    I finally took care of my shifting problem. Traded for a pickup and got rid of the whole headache and bought an other ford pickup but with a five spd, so no shift problem just driver error if shift problems happen. That jeep drove me nuts for about 7 months, that i found my ford! but it was nice. All well that's my thoughts with jeeps. Junk.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    I was told by my mechanic (brother) that it is a trany for both inline 6 and the v8, plus read on line that guys put later model trannies in th earlier models? My 95 had the bolt pattern for a v8, but it had a inline 6 in it.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    My 95 did the same thing and it drove me nuts for about 6-8 months I think that the 183,000 miles has it wore out, then i got pissed and traded it for a pickup and bought an other ford with a 5spd manual!
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    My JGC 6 Cyl. has a little over 80K. Recently it rides stuck in first gear until I have reached about 32 - 34 mph. Then it moves to third and it is fine. I have never had problems with the transmission prior to this event and, I have had few problems with the car over-all. Any ideas?
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    To chats72 - check the tranny oil when it's hot and with engine running. Top up if low. It cured the same problem with mine
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for your suggestion. Do you suggest a full drain and fill? I wouldn't know what kind of fluid is in there now and would be weary of mixing fluids.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Find out if the trans has a linkage to the throttle. If it does, make sure it is not out of adjustment or stuck. If the trans has a band adjustment find out what the procedure is and have it adjusted. Maybe a Haynes manual will help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    that trans is all controlled by a computer (fly by wire) no cables no band adjustment
    could be shift control solenoids are sticking as sounds as if trans fluid has never been changed
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    edited October 2010
    if you add fluid use the right kind DO NOT use dextron fluid could be part of your prob
    I would drop the pan and change the filter and oil my self
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    Changing Oil in the Past - I did the normal dealer care for the first 50K miles so I think it was probably changed then - couldn't swear to it though. I checked the oil on the stick (after a wipe - was the car hot?) was full - color brown, and no smell of smoke or burn.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    should not be brown should be redish as trans fluid is died that way so can tell what is leaking if have spots under car also trans fluid is different compounds from reg oil
    as stated would change trans fluid and filters if have wa42 trans has two filters should be in trans change kit from autozone or pepboys
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks to all who have piped in here. To bring you up to date.
    I discovered that code P1762 flashed on the code reader. I took it to AAmco where they gave me their free analysis. Seems there is something awful under the hood. It might come out to $2000 to 2500+ to have it fixed. No promises. The need to tear it apart and see what's really wrong.
    Before I left, the manager asked me what he can do to get my business today. Not sure how to answer that. Well for one thing you could _ _ _ _ .
    I am reluctant about doing business there and I am ready to take it to a Jeep dealer where I am sure they will do all they can to make this into a case study of what not to do when you don't know what to do.
    On my way back to HQ I stopped off at Jiffy Lube and asked if they would drain and flush the transmission. Yes they will do it but they won't drop the pan. They'll push all the old fluid out but can't promise to to get all the gunk out.
    Any ideas, before I stop by my local dealer and hand him my Jeep and a blank check. Like what is the worst case scenario and how much would it cost?
    I believe driving the car in this state is doing the transmission little good.
    YiS, Jeff
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    code is governor sensor volts to high or to low

    just could be plugged pickup need to remove pan and change filters
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for your note. I have an appt. with the dealership in the morning.

    I'll 'ask' them to do that and I'll post what happens.
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Well, I brought my 2001 JGC into the dealership this morning. I told the service advisor - that the transmission was dragging itself from first into what I assume is third gear. My check engine light was on and the code P1762 showed up on the odometer. All stuff I described here. And that I drove it maybe two hundred miles since this all happened. Maybe two fifty. Oh and I asked him to drop the pan and flush out the fuel and clean the screen.

    Three hours later - he told me that there was a problem with the solenoid. Just as I was told by you fine fellows here on CarSpace. Total cost around 1100 - 1200 bucks and the car would be good as it was before all this happened. Not cheap, but a whole lot better than my AAMCO estimate.

    But, we are not done. The mechanic noticed another problem. Oil was leaking from the rear axle (case?) and dripping onto the brake pad. Need to fix the drip, 'scrape' the pad and do some work on the rotor. Another 1200 - 1300 bucks.

    I asked him if I could put the axle problem on hold until next week. Cash flow isn't what it used to be. Question: Am I taking some problem with safety? I am driving south and back this weekend - about three hours - 250 miles.

    Won't have the car back until tomorrow.

    BTW, I noticed that the dealer was especially slow this morning. Usually there is a line at the bay. I drove in - no wait.

    PS: If you haven't realized yet. I know next to nothing about cars. I was thrown out of 8th grade when they taught a course in very general auto mechanics in my Jr. HS. Oh, and yes, I really appreciate the effort and time you all have given me.
  • champion09champion09 Member Posts: 3
    My 03 Grand Cherokee for the last 1.5 years has been flipping a check engine light, with that same code. Car would shift out of first/second into higher gears. Only thing I could do was gun it and get the car to 40mph, take my foot off the accelerator and as the rpms dropped, the car would go into 3rd and then accelerate normally. Not so good for the engine etc.

    I had the tranny guy reset the computer and bam, it stopped for 2 months. Now sporadically the same issue happens, but not as bad prior to the reset. I can't tell what it is. He said it was the solenoid, but I'm not so sure. I did add tranny fluid and that seemed to improve the situation.

    The lube guy wants me to flush out the tranny, but I'm worried about doing that. It's like adding a software patch on your computer and then it gets worse. So I'm holding off.

    Always reset the computer on these Jeeps as the dealer will always tell you to replace items, when the computer, dirty sensor etc could really be the problem.

    A dentist always wants to fix your teeth, a dealer always wants perfection in how the car runs. So you have to be careful in spending your money these days on un-needed repairs.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    that sounds a little high as probably just a axel seal
    only bad thing is have to ruin axel bearing to change bearing bout 70 bucks seal 25
    lobor bout 1 hr if need pads on rear other 200 bucks
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    Yeah - big city dealer prices. I'll know more tomorrow.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You need to fix the brakes unless you are just driving to the store and back. Oil on the brake pads creates uneven braking capability. If you do an emergency stop at 70 mph I doubt you will stop in a straight line.
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Hi everyone,

    Picked up my 2001 JGC from the dealership yesterday and drove about 25 miles.
    It handled nicely. I was told to drive somewhat cautiously (like a new car) for the next 500 miles i.e. and avoid sudden accelerations. I was also told that after some time I ought to check the oil level - it might be low, as it fills the nooks and crannies.

    Total Cost: $1065.00 Parts: $502.00 Labor: $562.00

    Here's the breakdown and some analysis: (to nearest/lowest dollar)

    Remove and replace Transducer and Solenoid:
    Parts: (1) Transduce $165.00 (1) Solenoid 186.00
    Labor: $337
    Total $690.00

    Remove Transmission Pan; Cleaned and resealed, and replace filter
    and transmission oil.
    Parts: (1) Filter Package 85.00 (6) Fluid ATF 65.00
    Labor: $224.00
    Total: $375.00

    My recollection of labor costs is $150.00 an hour.

    OOOPS I just checked out the 'actual' cost of parts at MOPAR - Chrysler Parts

    FILTR PKG TRANSMISSION $44.45 (MSRP) $0.00 (Core) Price: $29.32

    SOLENOID TRANSMISSION $118.00 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 77.72

    TRANSDUCE PRESSURE $78.75 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 51.98

    (I had a hard time tracking down the Fluid cost)

    Total from MOPAR: $159.02
    I am leaving out the cost of shipping
    Total from local Jeep Dealer: $437.57

    Should I be surprised that there is a 275% markup of parts? In other words is it standard practice for dealerships to markup the prices of parts when used in repairs?

    I look at this as Part One of a hard learning exercise.

    Part Two:

    Notes from my session at the dealer reports:

    "The technician states left rear axle seal is leaking fluid Recommend to replace seal along with bearings. Parts and Labor $700.65 + Tax.

    Recommendation to replace pads (fluid absorption) and resurface rotors.
    Parts and Labor $470.00 + Tax"

    That would be another $1170.00 'hit.'

    Now, a month ago had my tires balanced and rotated at my regular mechanics shop. This was before the transmission debacle.

    Wouldn't the mechanic have noticed something? My guess is 'maybe' and mark it up to sh_ _ happens. I would give the mechanic - a non-dealer, but a trusted practitioner - the benefit of the doubt here. He doesn't handle transmissions, but when I first reported the tranny problems to him, from the sound of his voice, I heard "be careful - out there".

    Just to remind you, AAMCO said that it 'might' cost upwards of $2500. I guess that means it could also cost less .They wouldn't know until they ripped it apart. The advisor told me a rebuild tranny would take 5 - 7 business days and compared AAMCO service to the poor service I would get if I went to the dealer or dropped by a junk yard for an off the pile transmission. A salesman.

    On that note, I told him I needed to get a second opinion, he said: "what can i do to get your business today? " I really had no answer to that, none - but I did have a strong sense that I was in the wrong place.

    As I pulled out he offered to buy my car. He said the cost to him of the fix was lower than I would pay and that my car looked really good (flattery) Now that was the first really close-to-true statement he made. (But still flattery)

    Remember the car has 81,000 +/- miles, it is garaged here in the Big Apple, and at least 40 - 50% of our driving is highway. We use the car to go camping often with the Boy Scouts and visiting family far from this maddening place.

    My goal is to get 150,000 miles from this car. I know - it will take me another 8 or 9 years at current usage and newer cars would be far safer and more trouble free. someday, in a better economy, I might see the light and change my goals.

    Thanks for opportunity to drop my story off here and pick your brains. So far you guys have been great.

    Jeff in NYC
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    a the dealer has a huge markup i do all my own work and have 230000 miles on my 2000 jgc with 4.7 engine no major repairs water pump alternator radiator belts brakes normal stuff
    i do use mobile 1 oil and change at 6000 miles or so still dont use any oil between changes so you should get lots miles yet
    thanks for posting update

    tony
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    Tony,

    Is it possible for the oil leaking from the rear axle to pool under the car - say

    overnight?

    I told the advisor I would work on the car next week - if he felt there was little

    chance of a problem on the road. I have a 250 mile trip to take tomorrow. He gave

    no guarantees but gave me no reason to put off my trip.

    Thanks for your help.

    Jeff
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    its posable but is it by a wheel or in the middle of the jeep if in middle then pinion seal is leaking if by tire then wheel bearing seal
    your regular mech should be able to change wheel bearing and seal
    i also dont think trip should cause problem just brake safe dont tailgate
    how big of pool?

    tony b
  • chats72chats72 Member Posts: 10
    Pool? I will let you know in a day or so.

    Jeff
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    Sometimes I wish, wish, wish I lived in the states. Seems everybody gets ripped off there, and on USA manufactured motors. Maybe I should considder moving out there and setting up a shop giving value for money. Would that work in your country???
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    'handsomerob' if you live in Mexico, just stay where you are. The 'gringos' have enough money to pay for their car repairs but we in Mexico (and I'm British) need good affordable mechanics. At the beginning of this year I had my '98 GLC gearbox rebuilt for 5,000 pesos. What's that 450 USD? In a few months I'll have it drained,.cleaned and refilled with new filters for about 50 USD. We need you guys here, in Mexico.
  • hovglovehovglove Member Posts: 1
    51 K on this car and it just showed these codes..are the TCM or Shifter Bezel Assy covered under 7/70 ? Its runing fine NOW but..
  • big_petebig_pete Member Posts: 2
    I have a 42re trans (4x2).

    My previous trans would always pull out in 2nd gear shifting regular thru the rest. Rarely did it pull out in 1st gear. Eventually the trans went while on the highway. Vehicle trans shifted all over the place.

    I replaced my trans (keeping the old wiring) and found that it would not shift out of 1st gear. The kicker is that there is NO engine light on...... NOR did it produce any codes from my OBD2 scanner.

    I proceeded to unplug the speed sensor wire, run the engine. I then received an engine light and a fault code. I then erased the code(s). I then proceeded to do (1 at a time) the same to the governor wire connector/ neutral safety switch/TCM relay and the other 2 fuses. All produced the same effect. Engine light on with a fault code. i then erased them.

    Test drove the vehicle 6 blocks and it still didn't produce a fault or engine light.
    Problem...... It still doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    I had a 95 JGC with 42re did the samething and couldn't find out wat it was, the guy I sold it to is still running it? It bugs me wat it is, but I'm not sure?

    If you look at some of the previous posts, starting on page 22 where I was talking about my jeep, they have some good links that could help you. Good Luck!
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