Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
"This code indicates that the EATX (Transmission controller) has an active fault and has illuminated the MIL via a BUS message. The specific fault must be acquired from the EATX via a DRBIII tool. (Input or Output Speed Sensor failures often cause this code and are a common failure part on WJ Grand Cherokees)."
Mainly it means the transmission control module has sensed a bad part hence setting a trouble code. Normally the dealer would read the TCM to learn more about what codes it picked up.
I have got a 95 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 awd. I am having trouble with my transmission releasing when i am coming to a stop. sometimes i have to kick it into neutral to get it to disengage. Then when i go from a stopped position it doesn't want automatically engage. I have to punch the gas to get it to move. The transmission will also sometime disengage when stopped. Any thoughts would be great Thank you
Thank you for the reply.
The cause was the filter in the transmission. It was loose after being replaced at a different shop. The dealers did a transmission flush and replaced the filter and the seal. The first shop used a after market filter which didn't fit right.
thank you
When you switched out the pressure sensor did you also switch out the solenoid governor? They are on the same body. The solenoid is one of the the outputs from the tranny computer and puts its signals into action.
HELP!!!!!!! I love my car, but when it does this "regularly", I'm afraid one day I'll be sitting along side the road with a blown tranny.
If I was in your situation I would not go to the dealer any more. Retain the documentation of your previous visits. Do not go to a transmission shop right away. Find a good general mechanic. Look for a private shop. Take your car and ask them to make sure something else is not causing the problem. Ask them to make sure transmission cooler lines are not leaking 1 drop of oil. They should be bone dry.
If they say it is the transmission, ask them to refer a transmission shop. If not, do their repair.
If the transmission shop has to fix it, take their bill to the dealer and ask them to refund the amount to you under warranty.
Your problem could be something as simple as a loose ground wire or an electrical connector that has become contaminated with grease or oil.
Please be aware that you risk hitting another snag trying to follow my advice. It all depends on who you are dealing with.
A 2011 Jeep transmission should be flawless.
Do not take it to transmission shop right away. They may find a non-transmission problem, but ask you to do an expensive rebuild anyway.
First, make sure something outside the transmission is causing a problem with the transmission.
if put into drive when engine revving high, then engine stalls;
if let engine idle and warm up; then engine still revs around 1 to 2 grand at idle; but car can be driven without stall;
cleaned control valve body, no difference;
took it to a mechanic, he checked with his alldata, says, the throttle control valve is bad; quoted $150 for part and labor;
after new throttle control valve, no difference;
mechanics says, the tps, throttle position sensor, is also bad, another $150;
now engine runs and idles smooth as silk; idling under one grand, no more high revving after start up, and no more stalling when put into gear;
I have spoken with Chrysler customer service a couple of times and they have told me that they have left my file open on this problem (supposedly that means that they are working on a fix), but nothing yet. The dealer said that they have this with all the Limited models and offered me to drive others (I really don't care if the trucks in their lot shake, rattle and roll --- I just want mine fixed) to feel it for myself and they told me that the cause is that the torque converter is engaging at that speed and this is the cause -- If this is the cause it can be fixed and I think I am being told a load of crap so that they don't have to have a recall and replace all the transmissions in this model (which is something that they have done with overseas models)
As an aside, if you change the drive control between the seats to SPORT vs AUTO, this will cause the shift pattern to change a little and it won't be as noticeable, but that damn vibration is still there ...
LET'S GO CHRYSLER, these are $35 - $50,000 vehicles that you make a ton of money on --- If you cannot afford to get this done right, have FIAT give you the money to fix this problem correctly NOW!
Next, check all electrical connections between engine and transmisssion. Make sure no wiring or connectors are contaminated with oil. Sometimes the engine leaks oil and it blows back over the transmission.
If you don't find anything, then I think you have an electrical-mechanical component like a solenoid inside the transmission with an intermittent fault. Unless somebody can diagnose the problem, you will have to do a rebuild.
If your transmission has a computer, check with the dealer about any Tech Service Bulletins or firmware upgrades.
Transmission problems are the worst.
Once you fix the problem, please update the post
it explains the codes that came up and the probable causes, but i am unsure what to do first, and i don't want to blow my engine up. please help me.
in the dash stays on but won't engage. At the same time my overdrive stopped working.
Any ideas?? no blown fuze and all connections are good.
hell and back before I found the problem.
First thing to do is cycle the key three times and then look at the overdrive
light and obeserve if it flashes or not. If it does it is indicating trouble codes:
eg: 2flashe pause 5 flashes would be code 25.
Try that and let me know what you get.
with high voltage. But will try the key thing now.
Or it's not working.
All it took was a little water in it to short it out.
I've owned 4 Jeep Grand Cherokees and had to change the transmission on 3 of them. So trust me when I say "I know".
Side note - they sure need to fix the lousy shift pattern they have, it jumps to a higher gear way too quick in order to try and get decent mileage at the expense of poor performance. Running in sport mode helps but who is going to use that in the middle of winter conditions.
Love the look, the ride, the quality of the interior, just fix the problems fast when they come up and Chrysler would have a happy customer.
Good luck....
The made the update, and I left thinking that maybe something changed, but 1000 miles later, the problem still seems to be there. Maybe it's just in my mind and I have to get used to it. May wait a while and try to have it checked out again. At the rate I drive, I'll be through any warranty period pretty quickly.
I too experience a growling sound from the driveline at highway speeds - specifically 73/74 mph. Fades in and out, and does not appear to be road noise, but to be coming from the transmission or other drive line components.
gbeesjeep - who are your talking to at Chrysler? Is it a dealer, or someone with the company?
I was hoping somebody had a clue on my problem and can help, it's kind of urgent. Today when cleaning my 2002 jeep grand cherokee, it started up and was running fine. Even was driveable. While the jeep was on and running, I had put the shifter in neutral so I could clean in that area. After that I left car in neutral and tried putting the other shifter from 4 wheel all time drive to neutral and it was fine. I then tried to put the shifter from neutral to 4-low and when i did that, the car made a grinding noise and jerked. Even after that happened though, the jeep stayed on and was running fine. After I turned it off and tried to restart, i won't start. I can turn the key to on position and hear radio and everything is fine there so it's not a battery issue but the jeep wont even turn and try to start.
Now, I am able to push the car like it's in neutral even though I have it in park and on 4 wheel all time. When I try to move the main shifter from reverse to neutral, to drive, to 2nd, it moves fine. But when I try to go all the way to the number 1 on the main shifter, it wont budge. No matter where I put either shifter, the car will not start. I have no clue what I have done to the jeep and hoping for an answer.
Please!!!! someone help!!!!!
They tried the same software change, did NOTHING. The dealer wants to start changing out parts one at a time, I said I am not going to make repeated trips to do this (I have been there 3 times already just for the vibration problem). They said they can't offer a free rental car. I have a contact at Chrysler Corporate with an open file on this. I have contacted them about leaving my Jeep with the dealer until they get this fixed and I want a free rental while it is done. Paid over $50K for this thing I am sure as hell not going to let them treat me like another number. Chrysler is making a huge mistake jerking around the JGC owners. They have brought out a totally redesigned product that has huge sales but they are not providing the level of support that owners deserve. Like me, anyone that bought the 2011-2012 JGC are taking a big chance because any first year vehicle is going to have growing pains. I can accept that but do not accept the poor customer service.
Good luck.