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GMC Jimmy Squeaks, Rattles and Noises

2

Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Normal thing is lower ball joints are bad. Then sometimes its the hubs going if more noise on a turn (jack up to determine). Then the hood hinge bolts can move and pop - gm has a little washer to add that fixes. Could be front stablizer bar mounts also.
  • thard88thard88 Member Posts: 4
    I have been getting a noise from what a appears to be the front passsenger wheel area. I originally replaced rotors and pads (since it did it only when I was slowing down after driving on highway) to no avail. It kept making noise. I replaced the Hub assembly along with the cv axle on that side, still making the noise but more frequently. Sometimes when I back up it will make an intermittent grind and/or poping. Please help. Is ti my differential, I have the front driveshaft off the differential. Should I be able to spin yoke with the wheels not spinning while jacked up?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The 4wd has an axle coupler on teh pass side that locks the pass side CV. Drivers side always connected. Without the year hard to say and is it 3 or 4 button 4wd - 3 is the part time np233 and 4 is the autotrac np236 case.. If the vac is on partially to that axle coupler it will grind and pop as it meshes and unmeshes so to find out you have to pull the vac line to the front actuator located very nicely under the battery tray - plug the vac and see if thats it.
    Let me know if that does it and year/type and I'll tell you what to replace. This all assumes its not a lower ball joint pop/squeek noise and not from the raer brakes or u-joints on the main drive shaft.
  • thard88thard88 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry repairdog, 1999 3 button. Lower ball joints replaced 1-1/2" years ago. Doesn't sound like the u joints on the driveshaft, but at this time it could be anything (even the hamster on the wheel). I will try the vac line and let you know. Thanks a million.
  • thard88thard88 Member Posts: 4
    My 99 blazer has needed a sending unit due to the fact that the gas gauge has been registering full until I get real low, then it will register empty. Now the gauge does not work at all ( registering E all the time) with the light on, my thermastat readout isn't working also, and my shift indicator is not showing which gear I'm in although the PRND21 is still showing. After looking at the schematics I can't see any common wires with the exception of the instrument clusters. All this hapened at the same time.
  • thard88thard88 Member Posts: 4
    it is a 4 button- 1 is for the the auto 4wd
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Then you can see the vac solenoid on the firewall with a vac line coming in and the other going down the pass side to the actuator. That solenoid often fails partly open and a dealer only item around $25 and you just pull the 2 lines off (remember which is which) and a simple push to unclip from the bracket.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    May not all be related. The sender is part of a one piece fuel pump assembly for about $400. plus install and have to drop then tank - very common Blazer problem as the newre pumps have a "Robust" sender now (means GM fixed it and now you can buy a new one and oh well, outa warranty). The new GMs have a 100k warranty but only powertrain so still lacks real help for all their common failures. It is possible the ground wire is bad pass side engine to firewall but not usually.

    The thermostat sender is drivers side between the rear 2 plugs and clips on - may be off.
  • pinfishpinfish Member Posts: 2
    i own a 1998 jimmy sle and i hear a buzzing noise coming from it sounds like under my vehicle.any ideals on what it might be,its driving me crazy.thanks for the info.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    3 common things are the hazard/flasher relay behind the glove box, the heat shield on the cat converter, and the most common is the PCV on the drivers side valve cover. The PCV may be dirty so replace it or the throttle cable has a broken plastic tie on the rear of the upper intake so it now contacts or rests against the PCV so resesure with a plastic zip tie to the little bracket on the intake (was a push pin type on the cable) - common after any work on the intakes and really annoying. Good time to check the vac lines that T off the PCV area and run over to the drivers side - 5/32" vac hose and always rot out - your hands will be very dirty when you touch them (heat destroys them).
  • 97jimmyco97jimmyco Member Posts: 5
    For the first 20 minutes of driving, everything appears fine. After that, when I acclerate from a stop light there is a rumbling/clunking noise possibly from the rear, its hard to tell, transfer case maybe? I have no idea. It makes no difference whether I'm turning, and appears to go away when i get up to speed. The longer I drive the worse it gets. Not so much around town, but highway for a period and then when i'm back in town its very evident. Any clues?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Got to pin it down closer. Rear could be calipers hanging up, rear diff (check gear oil level), u-joints, and then check trans fluid and front transfer case fluid, then the engine and front end open up many possibilities.
  • weems2kweems2k Member Posts: 1
    Hey there. I have a 1998 Jimmy with the exact same problem. I had the battery replaced about a month ago, then about 2 weeks after that the same humming noise started. Along with the 12V at startup, then going up to 14 when I accelerate. I put on about 170000 miles on it before this started happening. Did you ever figure out what the fix for this was before I plunk down a bunch of $$$$. Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Pull the alternator and have it checked. Sounds like a bad diode bridge which can take out the voltage regulator. These two things combined can take out a battery, too. An alternator with 100K should be considered a maintenance item. Bearings, brushes both will not be in good shape.
  • mikesmith06mikesmith06 Member Posts: 4
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    You said the buzzing sound comes from under the truck but you did not mentioned if it was under the hood or under the truck itself, if it's under the truck close to the rear wheel on the driver side that is the fuel pump if it's making an horrible buzzing sound maybe it's time to change it, if it's under the hood, then check all vacuums hose and PCV Valves, also check every relays. :)
  • 97jimmyco97jimmyco Member Posts: 5
  • 97jimmyco97jimmyco Member Posts: 5
    Alright, the u-joints are fine, all fluids are topped off, the brakes are all good, just replaced the upper and lower ball joints, pitman and idler arms, tie rods are fine, fresh alignment, tires are a bit worn(but unrelated), could it be wheel bearings? Its not in the first 20-30 minutes of operation, but then after that its consistent after any stop and feels like the rear wheels just want to stop turning, like they want to catch and seize. The rear diff was low, but i did top it off. Help! I have to drive it to Oregon on Thursday!
  • gmcbobgmcbob Member Posts: 27
    so weird - I've started noticing a buzzing noise coming from my 98 Jimmy as well in the last few weeks. I'm not sure if its the tires I put on a few months back and I've just started noticing it, or if it's the brakes hanging up or what. But very annoying indeed. Sounds like it's associated with the wheels or tires or something, because it only happens when the vehicle is rolling.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Gotta get a better description as no buzzing from the drive train- grating, grinding, clicking etc. Buzzing is all electrical or PCV related.
  • pinfishpinfish Member Posts: 2
  • gmcbobgmcbob Member Posts: 27
    Turns out the noise was the front wheel hubs. Both of them were completely shot. The parts and labor were $966. But at least its quiet now.
  • unicorn747unicorn747 Member Posts: 15
    I'M GETTING READY TO REPALCE THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY ON MY 2001 GMC JIMMY - SHOULD THE BALL JOINTS OR ANYTHING ELSE REPLACED AT THAT TIME ALSO??
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Depends on mileage and use, as well as 2wd or 4wd.
    2wd should be just hubs unless extreme use, in 150k range, loose, or the wear inducator is showing (grease zerk moves up)
    4wds after 60k I'd do the lower ball joints and by 125k both lower and uppers as well as rebuilt CV axles as the boots always seem to rip right after the ball joints are done which required pulling the steering knuckle off (thats the big cast steel assembly) which takes all the time.

    Good time to lok at brakes then as all comes off so grease the slides and make sure the pads still slide in the caliper brackets.

    So, bottom line is look at the wear, your budget, and mileage and decide if you feel lucky today!
  • ldtdldtd Member Posts: 4
    My 98 4WD Jimmy which just turned 200k is developing a rattle only when I accelerate. It doesnt rattle every time I press on the gas - and sometimes when it does rattle releasing the pedal and pressing on it a couple times makes the rattle disappear. The rattle sounds like it's coming from under the middle of the vehichle (but I can't be certain). It doesnt rattle when I go over bumps, but when I reverse I get a rear end clunk (typically only once during the reverse). Not certain these things are related. During last oil change a mechanic told me my rear differential was starting to go - but I could probably continue driving on it for now. Are these noises related to that or seperate? Thanks!
  • mtrotter70mtrotter70 Member Posts: 3
    The rattle noise could be your catalytic converter. Have someone press the gas while in park and look under vehicle and see where the noise is coming from. If the rattle is coming from inside the cat, then have it replaced.
    The clunk noise is probably a u-joint going bad.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    At 200k could be from anywhere.
    If rpm related look at the PCV.
    If exhaust could be the cat heat shield or inside it, an O2 sensor shield, or muffler - got to get under and listen or take to a shop and they will tap along the exhaust.
    Also could be internal engine or other.
    Got to narrow location etc down.
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f1679/6
  • jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    I changed the front shocks.
    I noticed a chafe on the front pass. shock where it was rubbing on something (control arm).I also soaked every bushing, shock mount with silicone spray and greased all fittings.

    Quiet as a mouse now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0cda57/8
  • mwright3mwright3 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 GMC jimmy. I have changes the shocks, Hubs and back brakes since owning the truck for a bout a year. I was off roading and put the truck in 4x4 and I heard a loud snapping type noise and later a high squealing noise near front tires. Now when I start to accelerate a rattling clunking noise is heard near the front (middle) of truck. It goes away sometimes but can be heard when driving lower speeds durning acceleration. I went under the truck and turned the drive train. It seems to make a low rattling noise at the end closer to the back where the U Joints are not. Any ideas if this is a u joint or a new drive train will be required? My truck also makes a squealing typ noise when the wheels start to spin but I think that is my wheel bearings and nothing to do with the other problem. Please help
  • mwright3mwright3 Member Posts: 4
    Hi I am having the same problem, does yours stop when you put it in 4x4? Have you had any progress since your post.
  • osusieq1osusieq1 Member Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying my mechanic is a family friend. Sometimes thats a good thing, sometimes not. In this case, I'm not sure. My antilock brake light came on, and he replaced the front hubs as the wires were worn. Light went off, all was well. However, driving it home, when I did a hard turn (left or right), I hear and feel through the floor a clunking sounding like it was coming from the front right. I went back and he said it was the CV. Replaced that as well. Guess what? Still clunks. He super greased the upper and lower ball joints, clunk clunck. Now he's telling me its the control arm/control arm bushings making the noise. Does this sound right?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • mwright3mwright3 Member Posts: 4
  • mwright3mwright3 Member Posts: 4
    I am not sure with the 94 jimmy but with my 2001 you cant grease the ball joints. Mine are a sealed unit that are suppose to last for a long time. So if yours are the same I dont think your friend trying to grease them will help. I am told that It has to be changed. Also when we changed our hubs it wasn't a clunking noise but a howling noise. I went under our truck and turned the front drive train by hand and I heard the clunking noise9 not as loud but it was there. Someone said check the u joints that they can make the clunking noise. But when I turn the drive train the noise comes from the opposite and. Any thought I would tell you incase it helps you. My mechanic to is a family friend
  • unicorn747unicorn747 Member Posts: 15
    ARE THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS HARD TO REPLACE? COULD THIS ALSO BE CAUSING MY JIMMY TO STALL? WOULD THIS PROBLEM ALSO MAKE MY SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT TO BE ON? WE'VE TRIED A NEW GAS CAP , BUT THAT DIDN'T MAKE IT GO OFF. :confuse:
  • ldtdldtd Member Posts: 4
  • ldtdldtd Member Posts: 4
    I took it to a couple of places, the muffler shop I took it to gave it a look over, hit the original exhaust with a hammer and that seemed to fix it - they said it was the baffel inside. I've also now sworn off lower octane fuel...only the good stuff now, seems to help some, did the first batch of 94 octane with fuel injector cleaner too.
  • dumcriefdumcrief Member Posts: 4
    My 1999 Jimmy has a intermittent loud noise coming from the front passenger seat front lower door, floor area. Pulled the panel off the door, see nothing. It sounds like a loose bolt hanging from a string knocking against the plastic panel. Any help out there ?
  • whiteinkwhiteink Member Posts: 2
  • dumcriefdumcrief Member Posts: 4
    Found the source of the noise....The plastic door panel was "crinkling" along the bottom of the passenger door with the movement of the vehicle. Canadian cure, jam a couple of golf tees between the panel and the metal door. Problem solved. Thanks to all.
  • dan_maroisdan_marois Member Posts: 1
    Thanks in advance to anyone for help. I have lots of details, i let a brake job go for quite a while was finishing school no cash etc. When i took the rotors and pads off they were the worst ive ever seen rust everywhere. So new rotors and pads, the brakes work great. However 2 problems. When I veer left there is a noise as if something is rubbing on and off almost as if taking a wire bruch and gently sliding it on metal over and over again. This only happens when your moving not if making a direct left turn from a stop. The next problem is that randomly while dricing straight you will hear a high pitch squeal for a second on and off when you touch the breaks very gently while the noise is happening it will go away. I have no ideas again any help is greatly appreciated
  • jimmyoffroadjimmyoffroad Member Posts: 1
    Need some help. I started hearing a noise about a week ago on my 99 jimmy. It sounds like there is somthing loose on my frontend. when i turn left at moderate speeds it kind of grinds not bad but it feels like there is something moving under my feet. i have recently changed the upper and lower ball joints cv shaft idler arm and pitman arms. let me know what it could be. Thanks to anyone who can help!
  • diehard1967diehard1967 Member Posts: 1
    Hubby got into a crash in my 2000 GMC Jimmy, (grrrh). Anyway we took it to the GMC dealer and they fixed all the body damage, but since the accident it sounds rough, it has had all it's regular scheduled maintenance done at the dealers and was in perfect condition before the crash. We would not sign the release form to say we were satisfied with their work, they did diagnostics on it and found nothing, but does anyone know what it could be? I know the sound of my vehicle and it sounds rough now, especially when reversing and initially accelerating. Thanks for any/all help. It's a 4x4 with 154,000 on the odometer
  • trackmastaflextrackmastaflex Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I'm trying to diagnose a weird noise that my 1997 GMC Jimmy w/ 90K miles is making and would appreciate input.

    My car makes a cyclic squeaking noise similar to high pitch metallic scraping noise (I'm not sure yet if it's metallic scraping) at low speed below 15mph. The noise is there during acceleration/deceleration/coasting while the car is in gear. The noise is only made while the car is in Drive. The noise instantly goes away when I shift my car from Drive to Neutral which leads me to believe it's somekind of drivetrain/transmission issue. The noise completely goes away at speeds above 15mph.

    I usually do most of my own work on my cars but this one has me pretty stumped. Help is appreciated.
  • jammonjammon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 2 dr Jimmy. I am having two problems and am not sure whether they are related or not. I have had my truck in numerous times and they keep telling me nothing is wrong with the vehicle.

    1st) My steering wheel itself is loose. I feel vibrations driving at any speed, and have come close to losing control (wheel shakes and turns) driving over rough terrain, or railway tracks for example.
    2nd) I've noticed that the truck itself has developed brutal rattles when going over bumps and rough terrain. The whole truck shakes and you can hear it in the console and doors. Again, I had the truck in for an inspecation and they told me nothing is wrong.

    What should I ask for the next time I take it in? Is it suspension, bushings, struts, steering column?

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • estanb2estanb2 Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 Jimmy has a front end clunk primarily when in reverse, when backing down the driveway, or sometimes just turning the wheel sharply from a stopped position. I have new ball jonint and recently had a lube as well. Still have the clunk. Anyone have any ideas on the fix? Thanks
    Stan B
  • russquaredrussquared Member Posts: 1
    I recently (about 6000 miles ago) had this same problem repaired on my 1998 Jimmy. Tuns out that it had nothing to do with the ball joint, or, as I thought, the a-arm bushings, but it was the motor mounts. My mechanic replaced my motor mounts and I haven't had that problem since.
  • headroneheadrone Member Posts: 1
    Everytime I go over a bump in the road or any uneven ground a strange noise comes from the drivers side front wheel well. It sounds like there is something wrong with the suspension. Any ideas of what might be the problem? I also have sqeaky suspension in that same wheel well, any suggestions on how to supress or elimate the sqeaks? It's a 96 GMC Jimmy 4x4 4 door.
  • estanb2estanb2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Did your clunk happen when you turned the steering wheel sharply? Did it happen when you were driving like when you accelerated? After your reply, I had the mechanic check the motor mounts and they appear to be in good shape.
    Thanks again
    Stan b
  • michael79michael79 Member Posts: 21
    just replaced the idler arm in july and now it is oct. and i went to turn left around a sharp corner and i heard a clunk or pop sound and came home and no crap it was the idler, any help on why they go that quik, friend told me in 3 month's i would replace it and he was right he also told me it will happen sooner the next one i put in, any suggestions on replacing, i greased and went by spec's when changed.

    thank you
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