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Comments
My mistake was not test driving this car. I felt that it was a Honda and brand new. If I had it to do over I would have and probably not bought the car. Now I'm stuck with that problem for at least four years. Don't know if the lemon law would apply in this case as it's not a safety problem.
with it. as user friendly as it is, it is a big pos. It will be my last Honda.
Not sure if we can eliminate the "drooning" sound that is only generated by engine in VCM mode, when engine is under "low" load condition. Perhaps get a Honda van that doesn't have the VCM "Feature". However, VCM is also supposed to be getting us better gas mileage when in this mode, ie: running on 3 cylinders. If anyone Knows how to DIS-ABLE VCM Mode, Please let us know ! The gas mileage increase may outweigh the Vibration.
between 40-50mph.
Though your vibration issue sounds similar to the issue we have with our 2008 LX, it may be different. Like yours, ours is very noticeable at 50 mph. But unlike yours, ours worsens with increased speed. We are in the process of trying to determine if alloy wheels will eliminate the problem, since our Service Tech told us the problem was inherant in all LX's due to the steel wheels. Any thoughts?
I can reproduce my problem at any time. As soon as it goes into overdrive you can feel vibration in the gas pedal and the steering wheel. It will peak around 48 or 50 mph. As soon as you let off or increase the gas it stops. The factory rep agrees that he feel it and states that there is no fix or he would fix it. He states that it is the transmission trying to "lock in". He had me drive a 2009 LX and it did the same thing. That, he says makes it "normal" I say if he has a thousand cars that exhibit the same vibration that doesn't make it normal, that makes him having a thousand cars that are defective. American Honda called and asked about it. I told them that I felt compelled to buy the extended warranty because in my opinion there has to be wear in that drive train. I asked that they split the cost of a six year 120,000 mile zero deductible EW with me. They will "get back to me" by Wednesday (tomorrow). I'll let you know!!
Previously I experienced a shudder - but I think the engine mount now has the balls to hold down the engine and suppress what previously manifested itself into a shudder. Eventhough the vibration is gone - I can detect those times when the engine is in ECO and not capable of deliverying a super smooth ride. I honestly believe the engine should (and used to) run a bit smoother - this rougher ride is what cause the mount to fail in the first place.
But at least I don't feel like I have to sell the car. If anyone knows of other items that could smooth the ride in ECO I would love to know - however reading "vlentz - had me drive a 2009 LX which did the same thing" - maybe that's as good as it gets. I going to keep checking back to see what others find.
Just heard from American Honda. They talked to the factory rep that rode with me and he stated that it was normal for this model and there was no fix available. For that reason they wouldn't offer me any assistance with the EW. I asked what percent of the settlement they would pay if the drive train failed after the warranty expired and they couldn't tell me. I feel compelled to buy the EW. The truth is even if there is no failure this car is annoying to drive. I have a $27,000 in this car and I hate driving it. I bought it brand new a couple of months ago and have had it back three times to one dealer and once to another. They all say it's normal. I will never buy another Honda. I am checking legal avenues through the lemon law but don't think it will help.
I am the original poster of this vibration crap! After many visits to different dealerships, my van finally drives much better. I would not say perfect but more than acceptable. As other posters have said, there is a TSB about the rear engine mounts. I had those replaced. The van was better but not great. I could tell it helped. I then had to replace the factory michellins at 26k miles. That's pathetic but what can I say! I went the advice of Tire Kingdom for a "soft" ride and that tire is a Yokohama Avid. They were only $105 each. What a difference. The van drives much better. The vibration at 42-50 is completely gone. I have minimal vibration at upper highway speeds (70-85). What a difference. Hope this helps everyone. What a nightmare honda has caused. Sad if the Michellins are the leading cause.
I am sorry to hear about American Honda. It is too bad they do not back their product. I am having a similar experience. I feel like I'm being given the run-around. I have also been told my vehicle is normal, (after it spent its first week in the shop) though my vibrations are quite different than yours. Both of our cars cannot be normal if they are doing different things -- yours with intermittent vibrations at a specified speed and mine with constant vibrations that get stronger with increased speed. My dealership also wants me to drive an LX which they say they will have ready for me when I arrive. We decided to test drive one at another dealership to investigate this. My husband is doing this as we speak. All I know is that I was sold a sub-standard vehicle which we reported as such within 1 day of ownership. We have experienced nothing but extremely poor customer service from both the dealership and Honda since. We have owned the car less than 2 weeks now. I feel your pain. However, you may be eligible to pursue the Lemon Law since your vehicle has been serviced at least 3 times (that's from FL). We were cut off at 2. We cannot take our car to another dealer for service since our dealership, Kuhn, closed out the warranty for our vibration issue. After finding no source for the vibrations, the Honda rep deemed our car within spec. I am trying to get the GM to take a drive in my car. Then he will see exactly what was sold to us. I am also trying to find a friend who might know the owner. Perhaps that will spur some action.
I'm very happy for you. The difference is apparently in the quality of the dealer
that you are using. I sent in a copy of the posting about changing the tires and
motor mounts and this is what Pohanka of Salisbury had to say..... this is the service manager of Pohanka and the factory rep that drove my car.
"After review of your suggestion, in my experience with your concern, the torque converter which is the coupler from engine to transmission makes this vibration or hum. I do not believe replacing the tires would make a difference. I will keep my eyes open for any new updates and contact you but as Bill stated there are a lot of Odyssey’s in service all with this same characteristic."
AccurateCars.com
There are pictures too. The specially designed rear motor mount has a cusion that is intended to keep the vibrations from the non working cylinders in ECO mode from transmitting into the rest of the van. The motor mount cusion failed so the motor mount was essentially sitting on metal instead of air, so the vibrations transmit through the rest of the car.
This is actually relatively easy to check. If you can, jack up the car to where it is safe to get under it. If you cannot do this on your own, you can do this during your next oil change or maybe an auto shop can just put it up on a lift. If you look up at the very back of the engine, you will find a mount that looks like the one in the picture in the above link. You will also be able to see if the gap is there or if there is contact where the gap should be.
Link to website with pictures of engine mount.
There are pictures too. The specially designed rear motor mount has a cusion that is intended to keep the vibrations from the non working cylinders in ECO mode from transmitting into the rest of the van. The motor mount cusion failed so the motor mount was essentially sitting on metal instead of air, so the vibrations transmit through the rest of the car.
This is actually relatively easy to check. If you can, jack up the car to where it is safe to get under it. If you cannot do this on your own, you can do this during your next oil change or maybe an auto shop can just put it up on a lift. If you look up at the very back of the engine, you will find a mount that looks like the one in the picture in the above link. You will also be able to see if the gap is there or if there is contact where the gap should be.
I took my 2005 Honda in (68,000 miles) for service and was told my motor mount need replacing. $650 dollars later, the problem is solved. I have since heard that it is very hard to destroy a motor mount, so I began researching this subject to see if there was some kind of defect.
After finding this blog, I would think that there is a specific problem that needs to be addressed by Honda. If anyone has any info on class action or where we can file an official complaint, please give me the info. I will definitely follow through.
Also, I have a friend who has a 2007 Honda Odyssey with less than 20,000 miles and hers just started doing the exact same thing. Fortunately, she's still under warranty, but it just seems to coincidental that we had the exact same problem.
1. Replaced rt. front knuckle, all bearings and hubs.
2. New tires.
3. Replaced both driveshaft assemblies
4. Replaced both rotors.
5. Replace exhaust pipe per bulletin.
6.Replaced outer tie rod ends.
7. Replaced brake pads, rotors and calipers.
8. Replaced power steering rack assembly, tie rods and boots.
9. Replaced transmission/transaxle
10. Replaced Motor mounts on rear of engine.
(All done in the past 4 months!!)
** Now for an update. Let me remind you that I just had the transmission replaced less than 2 months ago and then today, while driving down the interstate with my little ones in tow, a sluggish jerk happened and a warning came on my screen about the transmission. The "D" (drive) light was flashing and the van did not seem to change gears at all. Luckily I only drove for 15 more mins. to make it to my driveway safely. Still waiting on my attorney to follow up with me on this case. NO ONE should have to deal with such POOR QUALITY of a product!! Honestly, I can say that I would never repurchase a Honda Odyssey Van!! And anyone considering to purchase one better do some extra homework on this product!! Seems like a lot of us are dealing with transmission/vibration issues which Honda should do a recall on! I can see how concerned they are at keeping their customers happy and making sure they will return!! :mad:
Good luck with getting the adequate response from Honda concerning our issues. I have been dealing with my vibration issues for over 2 years now and have not had my issues resolved even once-- not even after Honda sends an Engineer from Chicago to inspect my vehicle and everything Honda Tech Line stated to replace was replaced! I would bet the CEO's and the Engineer that "inspected" my "normal driving operations" odyssey touring would not drive 2 miles in my clunker of a Honda! They would have a new replacement, like I should have had over 2 years ago! I am seeking legal advise at this time and would suggest all who are having this particular problem to as well. Best of luck!
Rubber Exhaust Hanger
http://www.carspace.com/bigdadi118/Albums/bigdadi118%27s%20Album/Droning_2000RPM- .jpg/page/photo.html#pic
I have experienced the same vibration and slipping sensation with my '05 Odyssey EX-L . In November I had one motor mount replaced. There was a little less vibration, but it was not gone. I began doing on-line research and almost gave up hope after reading many disappointed Odyssey owners in this discussion. I came across another forum where the fix for the problem was said to be the torque converter. I had the dealer run a test on the torque converter and they said it was bad. They replaced the bad part and it runs like new again!!!! No more vibration and no more slipping sensation!!! I hope this helps!!
On my initial complaint to the dealer I got the "normal condition" line. Doesn't work with me, I test aircraft for a living and know the difference between normal and "interesting". After the first visit I did my internet research, worked on defining the problem and developed my strategy for the next visit. 1st, I needed a dealer who could hook up a computer to take a snapshot during the shudder behavior. 2nd I needed a dealership technician who had seen the problem before (very important). I found both at Scholfield East Honda in Wichita, KS.
The technician, who had experienced two Odyssey's with the same condition in the past, was able to reproduce the problem, take the snapshot and send it to Honda. The solution was to replace the torque converter. The repair took two days, the torque converter was replaced, the engine computer was updated, they cleaned out the transmission cooler lines (I have a towing package) and performed an alignment all on warranty. I picked up the van this evening and it drives "properly" again.
Hope this helps. I would definitely shop for a Honda dealer that has seen this problem before. Search out a technician who knows how to reproduce the problem.
Thanks again,
The mechanic transported it to Honda and a brilliant mechanic there solved the problem. They determined the "serpentine belt auto tensioner" needed to be replaced, Done and the vibration due to the RPMs is gone.
I believe that if you take yours in they will need to do all 3 things to make it right, but you might be able to get away with just the serpentine belt auto tensioner for now. Good luck to you all and I am thrilled to have my Honda running with the same hummm as when I bout it in '07.
May I know how much did you spend to fix torque converter please? thank you.
I have 2005 Touring that has same symptom that I just bought it from honda dealer with 84kmiles.
thank you.
A judder from the torque converter lock-up clutch may be felt while driving between 20–45 mph. To minimize the judder, a PCM A/T software update is available.
If the judder returns sometime in the future, after the PCM A/T software is updated, the torque converter would need to be replaced.
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to a different RPM to help mask the symptoms until vehicles are out of warranty.
As ee4life stated his is not 100% corrected. I beleive the bulletin stated some torque converters will still have to be replaced. Recalibration will probabilly not correct the problem but just make it more liveable at the current time. My odyssey has had the shudder since five thousand miles. How much has the shudder damaged other transmission components and or engine mounts. Especially on higher mileage vehicles. Good luck to all.
I always thought it wasn't normal, but the dealer blamed it on the VCM and ECO function and no TSB was available at the time. Then the TSB finally came out and it is now being addressed. This was handled in the same fashion as the soft brakes TSB. We experience the issue...we complain to the dealer....they say it is normal or are "unable to reproduce the issue" and we wait until a TSB is issued.
It would be nice to have Honda acknowledge the issue in a tech line summary article or service news article while they are working on the fix and TSB, so that we can at least know it is indeed an issue and that a fix is coming. I have seen them do things like this before on other issues....why not ours?
Please post your thoughts after getting the update.
I have been looking all over the internet for a TSB concerning this problem in the 07 but unable to find it. My dealership is absolutely refusing to replace the torch convertor. Can anyone point me towards a TSB for this.
ALso, my problem starting when I reached around 20k miles. They dealership originally said it was my fuel injections and I paid $150 to have them cleaned and this didnt work. I picked up the van yesterday after the software update and it lurched on me and I turned it back around and they have it again. Please help!
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