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Saturn S-Series: code p0101
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Comments
--the plugs all looked about the same, white discoloration, two had carbon buildup on base of threads (car's been an oil burner since 30k, though).
--the hot idle seems OK, but not real smooth. It idles at about 800 rpm, but there's a little more vibration than there used to be. No misfires like there was when intake manifold gasket was bad.
--I can overcome the stumbling on acceleration by flooring the gas pedal. It acts like the problem is a "partial throttle" condition. Once the accelerator reaches a certain point (about 75% to the floor), it pulls hard and accelerates. Then, as you let off, you feel it revert back to the stumbling.
--I just changed the main O2 sensor near the converter. The initial O2 sensor was new last year, but I could try changing it again. Not sure if I mentioned in this thread-- I sconnected this sensor because the stumbling was severe.
--I bought a fuel pressure gauge---it read about 2 psi lower than specification range.
I'll try the PCV valve test today.
also, I forgot....the fuel filter is new.
Definitely sounds like a reasonable explanation. I don't have anyone to swap parts with to do a "test", so I guess I'll just bite the bullet and replace it. I'm curious, though, would the problem not show up at startup when the engine is cold?
You've been very helpful...
The problem you describe also reminds me in the past when the centrifugal advance didn't work right. As RPMs go up, there would be insufficient spark advance. Saturn takes care of this via electronic ignition and the crank position sensor to learn of rpm. MAP takes care of vacuum advance.
If you are referring to startup at idle, the signal is different. With throttle closed the throttle POS outright tells ECU car is in defined idle state. The throttle POS otherwise isn't really used. If you mean the problem is not apparent even when operating the throttle in the bad position range when cold, I would propose that it would be because car is not operating in close-loop, and using some assumed mix that is extra rich that makes up for what sounds like leaning out when high throttle in hot state and stumbling. I may be able to get you a courtesy old one. I won't need anything for it. Need to locate my old one somewhere. It works like new. If it is not the problem, send it to the other guy in the forum. Fact that it is happening at specific position, and fine on either side of the bad zone suggests that the variable resistor is screwed up in that sensor.
Plugs, wires and ECT sensor have been replaced. Did not replace ECT connector wire though.
Any ideas what I should check next?
Can anyone tell me what the fuel pressure should be on this 1.9l engine?
Thanks,
Fuel pump can be heard. I went ahead and checked the pressure. It stayed constant at 48 pounds. I had already switched the relays before seeing your reply.
The battery cables did not move when twisted. The ground cable was not loose but it was not as tight as it should have been. It took no effort at all to loosen the connection. The positive connection had some corrosion. Cleaned both battery contacts and cables and reinstalled.
Will see what happens in the morning. Your help is greatly appreciated. Will post and let you know what it does.
1. Tiny trace of coolant smell coming from exhaust or very gradual loss of coolant?
2. Extra tough starting on the colder mornings.
3. Look at the engine at hot idle. Do you see a slight jitter as if one cylinder has a slight miss. Listen for corresponding pop on exhaust too (misfire).
Good thing is since my last writing to you the car has started fine. The last things i did were to clean the ECT plug well and put some dialectric grease on it. Cleaned and tightened the battery terminals. Cleaned the throttle body (did not remove for thorough cleaning). So far so good, hope it stays this way.
Thanks for all the help
My symptoms are eerily similar to your post above (#66):
"
1. Tiny trace of coolant smell coming from exhaust or very gradual loss of coolant?
2. Extra tough starting on the colder mornings.
3. Look at the engine at hot idle. Do you see a slight jitter as if one cylinder has a slight miss. Listen for corresponding pop on exhaust too (misfire).
"
For the sake of completion, let me run down the whole story, briefly.
01 SL2, poor cold start condition. will start if I floor the pedal, but only after letting it crank for longer than it should need to. After starting, I need to keep my foot dancing on the pedal, as the RPM's will get low, as if it is about to die. After a few (15-20) seconds of this, I can finally stop holding my breath because it will idle without dying. After it is warmed up, I can turn it off and it will immediately restart as if everything is fine. The longer it sits, and colder it gets, the more difficult it is to fire. Once the gears are engaged (standard), and the rpm's up, it's fine. while engaging first gear, from a stop, I have to use more throttle than typical. other gears are fine, presumably because there is less strain. Have not tried significant hills.
the History.
-My car has had the engine light on for a long time now, it turns off occasionally, but usually it is on. Because I still got good fuel economy (30/34) and there were no unusual noises, I just accepted that that light was there to let me know that the service engine light bulb worked. :] not ideal, I know, I know.
-Car has always idled high (15-1800, sometimes even 2000+, but it will slow down after it warms up to ~1100)
-My boss (construction, so he sees my car running everyday) has mentioned that it sounds like it was not firing on all cylinders. Otherwise, I've never noticed the jitter of #3 above. I did r/r plugs and wires about a year ago per his recommendation, no change.
-we had a couple of very cold days recently, and the car would not start after sitting for 3 hours. Push started on monday, tuesday it was fine, wednesday needed another push start, so I started changing out parts.
-I changed the oil (routine service) and fuel filter at the same time. No change. however after this, i had driven enough on that tank of gas that I soon realized fuel economy was dropping (around 20mpg).
--While at a park, afraid that it wouldn't start, I let the car idle for about 30min. We saw a small plume of smoke or steam coming from near the empty coolant reservoir (did not pinpoint), and the temp gauge was just over halfway. the gauge is typically just above C, even on long trips, and it was definitely not redlining. I rolled down the windows, turned the heat on high (brought the temp gauge down quickly), and bought some 50/50 mix at the nearest gas station. I only poured ~1/2 gallon in there, so the system wasn't totally drained. I have not had this happen again since (a few days ago). The coolant level was fine after I swapped out a cracked radiator a few months ago, and no leaks (I've been watching).
-I changed the fuel pump. No change. However after starting my car this time, i noticed an excessive amount of smoke in the garage and began surveying the exhaust. I seemed to notice a small amount of antifreeze smell. the smoke almost had hints of white color. Not super thick, but hazy enough.
I know that was long, but that's as thorough as I can be. Does that reek of "intake manifold gasket" per your post #66, or should I do some other trouble shooting? I'm about to take a life insurance policy out on the thing and push it down the stairs. Thanks.