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Plymouth Grand Voyager

2

Comments

  • eagle_dadeagle_dad Posts: 2
    During last year's state inspection, I was told that I need to replace the headlight lenses on my 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager. However, when searching for replacement parts on the internet, I noticed they are sold with and without "QUAD LAMPS". How do I know if I need these "quad lamps"? As far as I know, the headlights are still working fine. Thanks!
  • Hi! I was trying to find the NHTSA bulletin# 1000317 you speak of. I just filed a complaint with the NHTSA on this very thing. Since this was so long ago, you probably have already found out how to repair it. I found a very descriptive web site of what the problem is and how to fix it. The kit is sold by Chrysler. I just had it done on my 1997 Chrysler mini van for about $356.
    Thanks,
  • Hi..Thanks for letting me join the forums here..I have been searching for an answer to whats wrong with my transmission. When you start out driving it..it shifts fine..then when the van gets about 20 miles or so down the road, and go to stop at like a stop sign and restart again..it will not shift out of 2nd gear and the rpms wont go down..the only thing that works (sometimes) is to stop the van and shut if off, and try again. It originally had the 3.8 big 6 cyl in it..but now has a 3.3, same tranny..dont know if that makes a difference. I've heard that it could be the solenoid pack..or the transmission control sensor...can anyone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks in advance..appreciate any answers
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    take it to a local trans shop and have it scanned ...the 2nd gear issue is called failsafe the tcm has seen a problem and it could be minor but you need to get it scanned so you know what needs to be done to fix it (speed sensors(external)are common problems)
  • Thanks for the quick reply :) The problem with taking it to a shop is that the nearest one to here is a 45 minute drive, and I dont want to hurt it lol..I could have it towed there, but it's 150.00$ to do so. Is there any way I can read the codes without getting it scanned? I can just buy the part I need online.

    Thanks
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    if you have a digital dash you may get lucky enough to be able to retrieve codes from the pcm ...very rapidly turn the key on 3 times then watch the odometer retrieve the codes and let me know what codes you got
  • I recently replaced my timing cover and now car start idles great but when i went for test drive it lost power and car went dead had to jumper start to get going again.
    I have check the alternator and is working and keeping battery charged. Anyone have any idea's what i can check?

    g.luna
  • Had the same problem with my 96 Grand Caravan, turned out to be the overdrive control module in the computer that controls the transmission. If you take it to a dealer, they will take the old module in trade which saves you LOTS of money...mine cost $175 parts, with 1 hr labor to fix...hope this helps!
  • I ended uo having a dead battery replaced and now working fine w/o trble.

    g luna
  • My 99 Grd Voyager (3.0 3 spd w/ovrdrv) starts and runs but about jumps out of the vehicle and knocks like crazy and won't excelerate (rev up) - it just goes wwwhhhhaaaaaa and won't speed up. It's like it stays choked or overfueled or spark advance is stuck in full advance from start up. The only time it doesn't do this and comes out of it and runs normally is in the early morning when it's still cold (50 or below). Eventually it levels out and will excelerate fine and is drivable. But when I shut it off and then start it again or it's over 50 in the first place it never levels out and it won't even pull itself down the street. It's like when it's cold the the choking process or fuel mixture change for cold start kicks in and changes something so it works right. Otherwise, the "level out" process doesn't happen and it just won't run right. Since it works some of the time I don't suspect a sensor but that could be intermittant too. I suspect more some control that changes idle speed or fuel mix is malfunctioning when it gets a signal to change or the signal is never being sent. Or I have an intermittant problem in the computer!!!
    Anybody got any ideas?
    Thanks,
    wheatski
  • I just found out my 2000 Grand Voyager SE has the strut tower rusting out really bad and I am wondering what web site that you found your information. I understand it is happening to a lot of the Dodge/Chrysler minivans but only on the drivers side. I think with how widespread this has become there should be a recall as this is a safety matter.
  • They did not issue a recall, but Chrysler put together a kit to repair this problem, keeping it off the books. Contact your dealer, or regional service manager and push hard. The repair they did on mine was not satisfactory, it rode and sounded terrible. If not you may have to seek credit on a new vehicle. Improper drainage in the area leads to pooling of water on towers causing premature rusting & corrosion on the towers. This was a problem on the 98/99 thru next model changeover.
  • I have a 1994 Plymoth Grand Voyager LE that runs but cant get over 2300 - 2500 RPM without putting and acting like its not getting enough gas. There are no codes from the computer and I have changed the gas filter, coil, plugs and wires, a couple of the fuel injectors, air filter, and oil. Nothing made a difference on it. Any suggestions or advice would really help.
  • Has anyone had a problem with the oil pan plug weld breaking? I just had that done and I am trying to deal with the person that changed the oil the last time. Does this happen often. I have 127,000 miles on this vehicle. Just curious. I would really like to know so I have something to go on when I meet with these people.
    Thank you for you rhelp.
    Roberta
  • I have a 99 grand voyager that needs new headlight bulbs and having difficulty trying to pry the old ones out to get them replaced. Has anyone done this before?
    Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.
  • sorry shipo , this is the only way i know how to get ahold of you as i am new here. But the info you gave me about my flashing lighs on my dash ,,,, 98 plymouth voyager. IT WORKED AWSOME, THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU FRED :)
  • rhtransrhtrans Posts: 84
    catalytic converter is most likely the problem
  • pagimenopagimeno Posts: 5
    I used to have the same problem with mine. Do you warm up the vehicle before you leave? maybe that's the reason.....I mean, that's what I did to solve it, warm up the engine for at least 15 mins.....

    Hope it helps...
  • pagimenopagimeno Posts: 5
    changing the timing chain is always good, but i don't think is necessary NOW, considering you only have 105k miles.... and when you start hearing a noise like a little bell coming down the hood means you need a new water pump. All those vans need the water pump change after a while....but you will clearly hear the noise....
  • mrhat15mrhat15 Posts: 1
    My Van was tested four times over 3 month period. The first read my O2 sensor in BANK #2 was oxygen strong, 2nd test was normal, 3rd test O2 sensor was going bad and 4th test was normal. Then the problem started again,my Van wont run when its 50 degress or warmer outside. It willstart up when its cold and stay running for about 20-30 minutes and then it starts stalling. I have replaced the coil-ignition, spark plugs and spark plug wires, distributor (all of it), battery, test the alternator it was good. I have ask alot of people no one knows for sure. I think it could be a number of things, I was hoping someone has seen this problem before and could HELP Thank You for any ones time. Josh
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    Have you considered the mass airflow sensor? Try pulling it out and cleaning it to see if it makes any difference. Because it is ambient-temperature related, I suspect this is an air-metering problem.
  • dvdasmthdvdasmth Posts: 2
    My PGV 3.8L just stopped on me. I listened for the "whirl" of the fuel pump when attempting to restart but could not hear it. I replaced the fuel pump but before so doing, checked that voltage was present at the electrical connection and it was: Between 5-10VDC. Still, the car won't start. I checked for spark at the plugs: None from wires. Spark from coil pack: None to wires. I disconnected the neg battery cable when installing pump so I don't think any codes are available. Also, can anyone give me a precise location of crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, ignition module and the location of the computer itself? Can I remove the computer and take it to AutoZone or a similar outfit and have the codes retrieved? Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
    Sincerely,
    David
  • I have a chiltons book at home and will look up those location for you later this evening or tomorrow if that will help.
  • dvdasmthdvdasmth Posts: 2
    Thank you for your quick response. I was very happy to learn that Chrysler has its own built in scanner: Turn ignition key on 3 times and the codes will flash. However, since I disconnected the neg battery cable when installing fuel pump, the only code I get is 55: "Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine light." I would really appreaciate the location of those components if you can find them. Thanks
  • I have a 3.3L engine that is overheating. The fan doesn't come on but tested good by using the alligator clips and current from the battery. I had Autozone test the fan relay switch (from the PCM) and it was good as far as they could tell me. In the course of determining the problem I replaced the thermostat and the temperature control sending unit. No success toget the fan started. I am leaning toward the Cooling fan relay module and I need to know where its located and how to test it. Also, what about the wiring harness that leads to the fan?

    :cry: :sick:
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 151
    Frequent visitors may remember my son's 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager's issues since he bought it in early Feb. Some of the recent ones were minor, such as having to replace both output shaft seals on the trans where the drive axles come out from. He was losing fluid causing the tranny to slip. We resolved that problem the other day.However, he told me the Engine Light was on again(the last time this happened it was the downstream 02 sensor) Anyway, I finally got myself an OBD2 code scanner and the code I retrieved was PO171. Now the scanner manual says this for that code:System too lean, Bank 1. I also looked in my Chilton manual for my 98 Dodge Dakota because there's a code description chart there and it says this-"Right(or just) Fuel System Lean", it also gives this description: "A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor". Can anyone break this down in plain english? In other words, what can I do to correct this problem? I cleared the code for him but it came back pretty quick, so eventually this is going to need to be dealt with. Any help in the proper direction will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 151
    Guess I'll answer my own inquiry. I was able to find out at a local Strauss Auto store that this code PO171 can have at least a half dozen meanings. The code reader the guy there used is far more sophisticated then the one I use. It identified the above diagnosis and then proceeded to list a host of issues, some of which were a faulty MAF sensor, fuel pump and or filter issues, and a few other things. I ruled out, and the tech agreed, that because this van is running great and isn't missing a beat, a lot of these problems just don't apply. He focused on finding a vacuum leak in the Evap system, but again the van would have been running poorly and it isn't. One thing I told my son was to check his gas cap. He put on an aftermarket locking type that you can store a spare key if you get locked out or something, and when he took it off, he found that the gasket on it was shot and not sealing well at all. He put on his original one a day or 2 before I saw the tech at Strauss. Anyway, this man cleared the code(s) and the check engine light hasn't come on since(6-9) I have to wonder if the gas cap was the culprit all along. I have a 96 Saturn that the cap wasn't tightened enough by an attendant, and the check engine light came on less that a block away from the station, that's how sensitive these cars can be today. Hope this can help someone else with similar issues.
  • mjesus209mjesus209 Posts: 2
    The other day i was driving back from the store, while parking the van, it just shut down and it did not start back up. Gas pump is good. It will turn on for about 3 secs. with starting fluid but will die, even while holding the throttle fully open. Any suggestions on what might be before i take it to a shop?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    This is just a guess, but since it will run for a few seconds with starting fluid (sprayed into the air intake, I assume) that means you have spark.

    Is there a fuse associated with the fuel injectors?
  • rzornrzorn Posts: 1
    Did you ever get your problem resolved? I have a similar type problem with my van.

    Thanks
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