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Plymouth Grand Voyager

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Have you considered the mass airflow sensor? Try pulling it out and cleaning it to see if it makes any difference. Because it is ambient-temperature related, I suspect this is an air-metering problem.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dvdasmthdvdasmth Member Posts: 2
    My PGV 3.8L just stopped on me. I listened for the "whirl" of the fuel pump when attempting to restart but could not hear it. I replaced the fuel pump but before so doing, checked that voltage was present at the electrical connection and it was: Between 5-10VDC. Still, the car won't start. I checked for spark at the plugs: None from wires. Spark from coil pack: None to wires. I disconnected the neg battery cable when installing pump so I don't think any codes are available. Also, can anyone give me a precise location of crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, ignition module and the location of the computer itself? Can I remove the computer and take it to AutoZone or a similar outfit and have the codes retrieved? Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
    Sincerely,
    David
  • garagemechanicgaragemechanic Member Posts: 3
    I have a chiltons book at home and will look up those location for you later this evening or tomorrow if that will help.
  • dvdasmthdvdasmth Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your quick response. I was very happy to learn that Chrysler has its own built in scanner: Turn ignition key on 3 times and the codes will flash. However, since I disconnected the neg battery cable when installing fuel pump, the only code I get is 55: "Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine light." I would really appreaciate the location of those components if you can find them. Thanks
  • crazy_willycrazy_willy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 3.3L engine that is overheating. The fan doesn't come on but tested good by using the alligator clips and current from the battery. I had Autozone test the fan relay switch (from the PCM) and it was good as far as they could tell me. In the course of determining the problem I replaced the thermostat and the temperature control sending unit. No success toget the fan started. I am leaning toward the Cooling fan relay module and I need to know where its located and how to test it. Also, what about the wiring harness that leads to the fan?

    :cry: :sick:
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Frequent visitors may remember my son's 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager's issues since he bought it in early Feb. Some of the recent ones were minor, such as having to replace both output shaft seals on the trans where the drive axles come out from. He was losing fluid causing the tranny to slip. We resolved that problem the other day.However, he told me the Engine Light was on again(the last time this happened it was the downstream 02 sensor) Anyway, I finally got myself an OBD2 code scanner and the code I retrieved was PO171. Now the scanner manual says this for that code:System too lean, Bank 1. I also looked in my Chilton manual for my 98 Dodge Dakota because there's a code description chart there and it says this-"Right(or just) Fuel System Lean", it also gives this description: "A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor". Can anyone break this down in plain english? In other words, what can I do to correct this problem? I cleared the code for him but it came back pretty quick, so eventually this is going to need to be dealt with. Any help in the proper direction will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Guess I'll answer my own inquiry. I was able to find out at a local Strauss Auto store that this code PO171 can have at least a half dozen meanings. The code reader the guy there used is far more sophisticated then the one I use. It identified the above diagnosis and then proceeded to list a host of issues, some of which were a faulty MAF sensor, fuel pump and or filter issues, and a few other things. I ruled out, and the tech agreed, that because this van is running great and isn't missing a beat, a lot of these problems just don't apply. He focused on finding a vacuum leak in the Evap system, but again the van would have been running poorly and it isn't. One thing I told my son was to check his gas cap. He put on an aftermarket locking type that you can store a spare key if you get locked out or something, and when he took it off, he found that the gasket on it was shot and not sealing well at all. He put on his original one a day or 2 before I saw the tech at Strauss. Anyway, this man cleared the code(s) and the check engine light hasn't come on since(6-9) I have to wonder if the gas cap was the culprit all along. I have a 96 Saturn that the cap wasn't tightened enough by an attendant, and the check engine light came on less that a block away from the station, that's how sensitive these cars can be today. Hope this can help someone else with similar issues.
  • mjesus209mjesus209 Member Posts: 2
    The other day i was driving back from the store, while parking the van, it just shut down and it did not start back up. Gas pump is good. It will turn on for about 3 secs. with starting fluid but will die, even while holding the throttle fully open. Any suggestions on what might be before i take it to a shop?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    This is just a guess, but since it will run for a few seconds with starting fluid (sprayed into the air intake, I assume) that means you have spark.

    Is there a fuse associated with the fuel injectors?
  • rzornrzorn Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get your problem resolved? I have a similar type problem with my van.

    Thanks
  • mjesus209mjesus209 Member Posts: 2
    after we re-check the fuel pump, it wasn't sending the right fuel amount. we replaced it and it turned right on.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    My son's 96 GV now has an issue with the fuel gauge. Sometime is doesn't register correctly when he fills up, and other times according to him, it takes it's good old time to get up to the full mark. He also said that the low fuel indicator chime will go off even when there is plenty of fuel in the tank. I'm inclined to believe that the trouble is with the sending unit in the tank, and not the gauge itself. How can I be sure? If anyone knows a test proceedure for this problem, I'd really appreciate it.Thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    My van did that with one tank full, but never before or after. I tend to agree with you without further verification though. I suspect the sending unit. I am not, however, sure of the testing procedure. There are three wires that go to the tank - one is the negative, one is the 12V, and the third, I imagine, is for the sending unit.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Thanks for the info, xwesx. A friend has a service manual for this van, and we'll look in there to see if there's a test proceedure for this issue. I'll be sure to check the wiring going into the tank to see if maybe there's a problem there. I'm not looking forward to having to drop the tank if it turns out to be the sending unit, and I may try and convince my son to just live with it since he and his family really don't travel that far. If there is ever an issue with the fuel pump, that would be the time to address the sending unit should the need arise. Thanks again!
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Back in the old days, the sending unit was a simple potentiometer (variable resistor) connected to a float. As the fuel level in the tank changed, so did the float position, and, since it was connected to the pot, so did the output voltage from the pot. The output voltage drove the fuel gauge directly.

    I am not sure if today's vehicles use that same, simple concept or something more complex, maybe involving the ECU.

    You son's symptoms could be explained by a float that was sticking.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    The sending unit setup in my '98 DGC looked to be that exact setup. I replaced the fuel pump just a few weeks ago, and I certainly hope you do not need to drop the tank over a fuel gauge.... :surprise:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • meknowmeknow Member Posts: 1
    96 plymouth grand voyger won't shift into 3rd or drive
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I've never had to replace the sending unit, but I think they're accessible from the outside - either under the vehicle or through an inspection port that you can get to by removing the rear seats (this being on a standard sedan).

    Then again, you can have your son just ignore the gas gauge and just fill it up based on miles driven, say every 200 miles if you want to be conservative.
  • aaronwatsonaaronwatson Member Posts: 1
    Hi, we recently purchased a 96 grand voyager in Michigan. It has done a lot of miles and we just drove it to vancouver. It has recently started to on occasion lose some power and the speedometer simultaniously.
    The speedo will flicker up and down or sit on 0 and it loses some power as well sometimes when this happens.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    It is mostly likely either a faulty speed sensor or a bad connection to the speed sensor.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jaybrazjaybraz Member Posts: 1
    Can you tell me what lights were flashing? I might be having the same problem. I need this fixed as soon as possible. I would greatly appreciate it
  • wheatskiwheatski Member Posts: 2
    I never did have flashing code lights. Counld never get a readout with a code reader. It would run fine for 15 minutes to an hour and then just die. If I went somewhere, shut it off, wouldn't start after it got hot. Finally changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor - haven't had the problem since! That was all after new fuel pump, EGR valve and throttle position sensor. Good luck!
  • geri6303geri6303 Member Posts: 1
    I bought this van a 98 Grand Voyager, the next day the "check engine" light came on. I stopped the car and lifted the hood, the radiator hose came off. They replaced the hose and said the code for the light was the oxygen sensor. The next day the "check engine" light came back on and it was leaking anti freeze like a sieve, when it's running. Also leaking oil around the gasket. Radiator is still full and the oil is full and clean. The car doesn't run hot or over heat. It was also smoking a white or blue smoke (couldn't tell). The van has 127,000 miles on it. It has a 3.0 engine in it.
  • shoby1shoby1 Member Posts: 3
    HELLO I WAS WANDERING IF ANYONE HAD A RADIATER FAN STAY ON WHEN U TURN VAN OF IT A 99 GRAN VOYAGER THANK U
  • shoby1shoby1 Member Posts: 3
    HELLO I HAVE A 94 CAD DEVILLE AND WAS WONDERING IF SUM ONE CHANGED OVER SHOCKS OR IF THE REGALUR SHOCKS HOOK UP LIKE AIR SHOCKS
  • perry16154perry16154 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1999 grand voyager, it had similar problems when i bought it. the tranmission would get confused in which gear to be in. when i tried to get it to shift into overdrive it would just rev all over the place, untill i got the rpms down to about 1500. i called the local transmission shop and the man was honest enough to tell me to " do myself a favor and purchase a shift solenoid and in and out speed sensors" 90 percent of chrysler transmission problems from 1996 to 2000 are because of these three items. so i did just what he said, purchased the shift solenoid on ebay for $102.50 and the two speed sensors at a local parts store for a total of $60.00. The van shifts beautifully now. but caution you must look for old stock new oem parts or you will have to change out the connectors.
  • perry16154perry16154 Member Posts: 3
    assuming you have a 4 speed transmission in you van, a604 41te transmission, the transmission shift solenoid and in ana out speed sensors need to be replaced. the manufacture of the van (without naming names) knows that the the shift solenoid in particular is only expected to last 60,000 miles. this is a cheap fix. I recently paid $102.50 on ebay for one. make sure to get old stock oem new, other wise you will need to replace the connectors.
  • jdebbinsjdebbins Member Posts: 8
    This problem is known. Probably somebody had also answered this.

    You have a solder crack on the ground, on the circuit board that is behind the speedometer. Pull everything apart, get the speedometer board out and inspect the dual inline connector, the pins that are soldered into the board. On close inspection, you will see the corner pin, the ground pin, with a crack in the solder around the pin.

    This is causing intermittent, and when temps warm up, crack opens and the whole board is ungrounded. Symptoms include no start, especially after car sits in sun for a bit. Before you open up the dash, try banging your fist on the top when it won't start. If it starts, that is for sure your problem. good luck
  • jdebbinsjdebbins Member Posts: 8
    This problem is known. Probably somebody had also answered this.

    You have a solder crack on the ground, on the circuit board that is behind the speedometer. Pull everything apart, get the speedometer board out and inspect the dual inline connector, the pins that are soldered into the board. On close inspection, you will see the corner pin, the ground pin, with a crack in the solder around the pin.

    This is causing intermittent, and when temps warm up, crack opens and the whole board is ungrounded. Symptoms include no start, especially after car sits in sun for a bit. Before you open up the dash, try banging your fist on the top when it won't start. If it starts, that is for sure your problem. good luck

    * digg
  • semockrsemockr Member Posts: 7
    Are there vertical reinforcing parts that can be attached to the frame and extend up over the bumpers that would absorb shock from a collision from the front or rear. Police cars have these attachments over the front bumper. I have a '95 grand voyager that needs better protection.
  • wayne78wayne78 Member Posts: 1
    i have heard theirs a reset button ,can anyone help, father of 5,cant afford dealer service. thanks in advance Wayne
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    I have the same problem.....and solutions out there??
  • julioccjuliocc Member Posts: 1
    how I reset the computer
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    This problem has no doubt been answered before, but I didn't see anything on this forum now, so here goes. My son can't drive his '96 Grand Voyager when it rains hard because his serpentine belt likes to fly off. This has happened to him at least 3 times in a little over a year, the most recent being about a month ago and of course dear old Dad get the call to rethread the belt back on. He is disabled and couldn't do the work anyway. I know these vans(T&C, Caravan and Voyager) have had similar issues with belts coming off when pulleys get wet. I see on line kits to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys with ribbed ones, replacing the smooth type. You also get a double-sided belt to replace the single-sided one. I'm sure the theory is that doing this would greatly reduce if not eliminate the belt from flying off should water splash up on a pulley.

    The one thing I never did was call or go to my local Chrysler dealer's parts dept until yesterday. Chrysler knew that the 96-99 models of these vans were prone to this condition. But their response to it is this- They make a replacement Idler Pulley Bracket, Part # 4612 412. It cost $106. They(or at least the TSB the parts guy read from) says that it is an ALIGNMENT problem more than anything, and replacing the stock bracket to which the idler pulley is mounted to with this new design is supposed to take care of this without the need to go to the above double-sided belt kit I mentioned above. I held this part in my hand yesterday and it looks to me like it replaces the motor mount as well. All I(and my son and his family) want is for this problem to go away. These replacement kits with 2 pulleys(some include a new tensioner)and belt cost anywhere from $95, and I've been quoted prices from local parts stores as high as $150+.

    My question is- Are any of you out there familiar with this problem and if so, which remedy did you use? I wonder if there is a how-to video on Chrysler's bracket replacement deal? If anyone can help with this, I'd be most appreciative as my son has saved money for over 2 months to DO SOMETHING ASAP so he doesn't have to deal with this craziness any longer. Thanks to all and have a Blessed day.. (Mike)
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I did this job this past Sunday(July 7th) and decided to go with the factory's replacement bracket. Took me a little longer, about 1 1/2 hours total because of frequent water breaks in near 100 degree temp! But the job wasn't really that bad, all things considered. You have to support the engine because you need to take the motor mount off the idler pulley bracket. I just put a piece of plywood under the oil pan and used a floor jack, you don't need a lot of lift. The 3 bolts that actually hold the bracket on are nearly 4" long. Chrysler says that when you put the belt on to start the engine and observe how the belt tracks, if it goes in TOWARDS the engine then you're OK(obviously not TOO much) but that should it track out AWAY from the motor then there are other issues at play. But the belt is where it should be on my son's van and I told him to drive in the rain and prayerfully this issue will be a thing of the past. Have a great day, folks.
  • jlooperjlooper Member Posts: 1
    null
    I had the serpentine belt trouble I fixed with aftermarket (identical to oem) tensioner, I found out you are supposed to replace them fairly often esp. If the belt slips off or breaks causing it to snap back hard (cost $15). The easiest way to do it is from underneath with ratchet and extensions at least one wobbly I think it was 15mm.
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