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Nissan Quest Brakes

13

Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Also, I think I remember something about the SE having the system that directs the braking load to the rear if it detects weight in the back (?). Having three kids in the back most always might explain why my rear pads wore out first and the fronts are just now needing replacing.

    It's called electronic brake distribution. it's standard on the Quest.

    Where did you hear that Nissan extended the powertrain warranty to 100k miles for the 2004 Quest?
  • ckeoughckeough Posts: 15
    I just changed the fronts and rears on my 06 for the 1st time, van has 33K. I surprised the rears were worn more, is fact I think I could have front for a while longer. I was also surprised to see the the front rotors are much bigger than the ones on my former 98 Caravan; that along with dual piston calipers. I've not experienced the problems others have with the brakes on this van, we drive 70/30 city to highway.

    Chris
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Nissan upgraded the braking system after the 2004 model year. (It may have been after the 2005 model year).
  • nzamnzam Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Nissan Quest in which the left frot brake is sticking and at times smoking. It has done this before and goes away. But this time is staying around. Is it a loose wheel bearing or does the brake rod need to be adjusted. Thanks
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Posts: 160
    Where did you hear that Nissan extended the powertrain warranty to 100k miles for the 2004 Quest?

    It's one of those hidden warranties...ha. They didn't really advertise it, but, if you push the issue with customer service, they'll honor it. It was a customer service initiative. I tried to get them to send me something in writing, but, only could get an email, which I saved.

    They screwed with this forum a few years ago, so, not sure where the messages from all 04 owners ended up, but, if you do a search you should be able to find the info regarding it.

    Mark
    04 Quest SE
    :shades:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Thanks famof3kids
  • pam48pam48 Posts: 3
    How hard is it to replace front brakes on our own?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,568
    Shouldn't be too hard if you just want to replace the pads and/or rotors. You'll need a bit C Clamp and a Torx socket (never can remember the size - T40?).

    This article covers the bases pretty well.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • pedro32pedro32 Posts: 1
    I just bought a used Nissan Quest SE 2004 with 76,000 miles. I noticed that the front and back rotors are kind of worn out looks like (grooves) created on the rotors. Question what type of brake pads do I need? ceramic, extended wear or what type? and I believe I will need to repair the rotors as well right if it is not to late.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I've heard ceramic pads are the best to use as far as wear and durability. But they can be hard on cheaper rotors. I would talk to your mechanic about what rotors will hold up to ceramic pads. Because there are so many different brands of pads and rotors, i would go with what your mechanic uses regularly. this way if there is a problem he/she will likely stand behind the product.
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    With our 2006 quest now out of Warrenty (40K mi) and the dealer replacing the rotors 6 times so far I think I will try this myself, any one doen this yet and know any pitfalls, tricks? thinking of going with frozen rotors any opinions? I have not even taken the wheels off yet to see whats there, are the rotors just slipped onto the hub? any chance anyone has a manual I can look at?

    Tom
    2006quest se
    tjshan68@aol
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Just to let you know, my Frozen rotors warped after about 15,000 miles. They were expensive and not worth the money. I replaced them with all Raybestos rotors and ceramic pads. Not saying these new ones won't warp, but at half the cost, it's easier to swallow. The Raybestos rotors are still smooth after about 6000 miles. If you are doing the work yourself, check out the online store rockauto. I have used them for about 8 years and great price and excellent service.

    There is a caliper bracket that holds the rotor in. You will definitely need an impact wrench to take the bolts off this bracket. If you don't have one, go borrow one. The brake job itself is same as any other disc brake job - not any harder.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Frozen rotors have supposedly a lifetime warranty which they dont advertise. It seems they support their product and stand behind it and they would replace them if they warp that soon.Did u contact them about this?
    I have an 04 Quest with OEM rotors and when it`s time to change,I want to use better ones rather than the crappy OEM`s.How are the raysbestos rotors and pads?Might give them a try if they are half the price of Frozen.
    Really,the Quest rotors are crappy.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    We just had the rear brakes and pads replaced on our 2004 Quest. Our mechanic used NAPA parts. Honestly, I'm not sure any rotor will hold up any better. Nissan did a piss poor job with sizing the brakes for this vehicle esp. the 2004 models.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Also, do you have the well documented steering wheel shimmy/shake/vibration??The rotors and pads were replaced and it still shakes.Probably a tire balance problem.
    Did u have any similar shimmy problems?If yes,what was the solution?
    Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Now that you mentioned this......

    I think I found the source of my steering wheel shimmy.....lower control arm bushings.

    I spoke with my mechanic today because I was having issues. he mentioned that during my inspection (end of June), there was some play in the bushings. he shared with me that he couldn't get the bushings through his normal local supply and tried calling the local Nissan dealership. They only sell the entire control arm which costs $$$$. he balked at this and told me if I can find just the bushings on the internet, he would install it for me. I saw that Rockauto.com sells them for $18: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

    This will definitely cure the "thuds" I feel when going over bumps and hopefully the shimmys as well. i tried balancing the tires and while one did need an additional weight, it didn't change much. i would also check the alignment as well. This minivan has a long wheelbase.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Looks like those bushings at Rockauto are for the rear. Checking a couple websites that claim you can replace just the bushings to see where to locate the parts. Will post my findings.
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    Yes, since about 5K miles we have battles the shimmy shake. like i said, 6 sets of brakes, two calipers (hanging up) new tires...the works. about 6k miles ago we had the yoko's put on and at the same time replaced the front drivers caliper (second time) and supposedly new rotors (I never trust the dealer to be honest) and the car rode great, about 1K miles ago we rotated the tires and I began to feel a shake again...ahh...thought I figured it out...had the tires rebalanced (they were off a bit) bit shake still there...in fact worse...I now suspect the rotors. We are going on a long trip next weekend and was going to try to change them myself befor we went. thats why i was looking for the advise.

    Tom
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    It looks like the bushings in the front control arm are NOT serviceable on the 2004+ Quest. You have to replace the entire control arm. I'll order the control arm tonight and have it installed next week and report the results.
  • I was at one point the biggest fan of nissan but up until this latest issue, I have come to the conclusion that Nissan product have a lot to be desired. I currently have an 07 Quest that I lease and let me tell you that once you cross that 30k point, the mini-van will literally fall apart in you hand if not in your driveway. First it started with both sliding doors then it was the strange noise from the undercarriage and last but not least, the brakes.
    The brakes are the hardest thing to have a dealer fix and I don't know why. This was my first mini-van that I leased brand new and I hoped that it would last alot longer than it has with out issues. i have already spent easily over $1200 in supposed repairs to the brakes only to have the problem of shaking and rattling come right back within days of picking the van up. The only answer i have been getting from the dealer is that I need to replace more that just the brake rotors and pads but now it could be the tires or the rims themselves. ultimately after doing all that was recommended, the van still has the original problem of shaking and rattling when you apply the brakes after being being used once or twice.
    So I started doing my own research and i am a little bit of a shade tree mechanic, so what i found out was that if i went out and purchased a performance rotors that are slotted for both the front and back. That would stop the problem of the shakes that comes from the small size of the original rotors and not being able to the heat that is created from the use. quoted price of after market performance rotor front and back $180 with tax.. amount already spent $1200. I think the choice is obvious. I'll will update when i'm done with the upgrade and the overall results.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    How long is your lease? That is a lot of money to spend on a leased vehicle. I wouldn't expect any great results from these rotors. I find it hard to believe the rotors are the problem. Plus the original rotors (same as what the dealership is using now) lasted until 30k miles. So the size and brand of rotors is likely not the problem.

    Since you have so much already invested in this vehicle, I would find a good independent mechanic to look at the entire braking and suspension system. I think you have more going on than just the rotors.

    My 2004 Quest has 78k miles on it. I stopped taking it to the dealer for brakes about 4 years ago. My indy mechanic does a great job and is much cheaper. He used Napa brakes this past spring for the rear brakes. They work great. Plus he doesn't nickel and dime me.

    Good luck and keep us up to date.
  • Did you ever get this worked out? I have an 04 Quest w/ broken CA bushings as well. My independent mechanics have been beating the bushes for two weeks but it they are telling me that Nissan does not make/sell the bushing separate from the LCA so it's a $700+ repair. If you found the bushings, could you let me know where to tell my guys to look for them (possibly w/ part numbers)?

    Thanks so much.

    Bettina
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The bushings on the front lower control arms are not serviceable. You have to replace the entire control arm (thank you Nissan). I got my control arms from www.partsgeek.com. They arrived in two days via ground shipping. I believe they cost me $445 for both front control arms. They are genuine OEM parts. There is only one supplier that makes this part.

    http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/nissan/quest/suspension/control_arm.html

    Also do a google search on "Partsgeek discount codes". I found a 5% discount code for my order.

    What's interesting is the bushings for the REAR control arms can be replaced.

    Good luck
  • Update on Raybestos QS Pads:

    Our '04 Quest now has 136,000 miles. After 49,000 miles of regular combined highway / city driving on Raybestos QS pads, the front pads are worn very thin, and the rear pads are worn about 75%. There is a slight shimmy in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied, so early spring I plan to replace the pads all the way around and replace the front rotors. What's the latest on rotors, is frozen still the way to go?
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    It seems that the frozen rotors are the best way to go as the OEM rotors are very small and inferior. I have an 04 Quest with 66k miles. The dealer replaced the rotors at 59k miles under warranty 1 yr back.So the next time the rotors and pads are on me. :cry:

    I also had the steering shimmy after the rotor job. The dealer balanced and aligned them and could not fix the shimmy. I took it to a different Nissan dealer-he balanced them and now the vibration is fixed. So if one dealer can`t fix it take it to a different dealer. :shades:

    Also what tires did you use? I still have the Goodyear eagle LS2 OEM tires. I got the 04 Quest preowned,so the previous owner must have put those. But from what I have read,these are pathetic. The Yokohoma Avid TRZ are supposed to be good. CR rates the Michellin Primacy MX4 which are available for the -04 Quest as the best tires in that class- for comfort,ride,tread life--basically the topmost ranking. So what were your issues with the tires and what did you use??

    And did you have any other problems after 65k miles?? Thanks for the help. But as far as rotors--from all Quest discussions forums I have read here and elsewhere the Frozen rotors are supposed to be the best choice. Hope this helps.
  • I see someone else posting that control arm bushings may contribute to the shimmy as well; our shimmy is extremely slight so I'll replace rotors alone first and see what happens. It appears that one person had frozen rotors warp at 15K, and someone else was having good luck with Raybestos rotors....Raybestos does have a higher grade rotor available, maybe that'll be worth a try.

    We got our '04 at 49K about 4 years ago. At that time it had the LS2 tires which absolutley sucked, and there was no other replacement available in that odd size. So, being in snow country I found a second set of rims and bought a set of 235-70-16 Blizzaks for winter (sized per someone's suggestion here) and those are fabulous in snow. After a couple of years Tire Rack had some other brand tires available (in tandem with the volume needed for new Chrysler minivan) so I went cheap and bought General brand. I'm not entirely happy with them, they don't seem to balance out very well, so would suggest spending extra on some better tires than General.

    Other than that, for what it is the van has been good. We had a transmission module replaced under warranty almost right after we bought it (traced the symptoms down right here on the forum). A new battery. The brakes. New belts (the alternator belt tensioner is a weak design, if yours breaks ask for the Altima replacement parts, otherwise they'll try to sell you an entire tensioner assembly for Quest). At about 120K, a cam sensor for the rear cylinder bank went out, symptoms are not serious (hard starting, runs a bit rough) and the check engine light code traces it down easily. Part is about 80 bucks at Nissan, and very easy to replace yourself. It's had all of the recalls for rattles and stuff. It still has rattles but for the use it gets we don't care. This tank will get us 29mpg on a good day doing about 60mph. Come to think of it, it's appearing that some rust is starting to pop thru down low on the right rear wheel well. Rust holes on something that new would really suck.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Thanks for the reply. Regards frozen rotors-- I am pretty sure they have a lifetime warr on the rotors. So if the rotors wrap,they will send you a replacement free. Not sure on the warr on the Raybestos rotors.

    And yes - now there are much more options on the tires. Michelin Primacy is supposed to be the best but most expensive followed by the Yoko Avid TRZ. Michelin is supposed to be the quietest and the longest tread life. I still have about 25k tread left on the Goodyears..And as you said,it is good for it is. It is not my main commute- I just needed a spare minivan and it fits the bill perfectly. Got a great deal used as these depreciate horribly due to the quality problems.

    Minor rattles present--acceptable,not too disturbing... But if I had gotten the van brand new I would be extremely mad and disappointed as these problems should not occur in a 30k van. :shades:
    And right now I am getting 17mpg as I mostly do city stop and go driving and very rarely drive on the highways.

    But these forums have been so informative and useful--You pretty much read every problem that happens with the Quest and it`s solution. :P
  • I hear you on getting the good deal on the Quest used. The '04+ is actually quite the diamond in the rough for the used minivan buyer. Because of the bad raps it does depreciate rapidly, and we bought into this thing cheap, knowing full well about the rattles and other potential problems. It's a big minivan, but second to none in cargo space, and the "fold somewhat flat" second row seats are great. I agree that if a person paid major money for a new '04 then rightfully they'd be livid about the problems, but for the 'used' money this thing has been great.
  • 1998 quest driver side rear drum brake dragging and not releasing causingwheel to heat up. Releasing fluid frees brake until brakes applied again and tne the same happens. Took off wheel cylinder and manually pushed in pin and seemed ok. Any advice greatly appreciated..
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