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Dodge Ram General Operating Questions

huttododgehuttododge Member Posts: 2
Hi, i own a 01 dodge ram and i swear this thing is a money pit. I LOVE the truck but its just thing after thing with it, and from what i hear i do not think it is just me. Here are my main problems:
1) GAS, not only is this thing as big as a tank, it drinks gas like a tank. I get on average 10.1 mpg and that is about 70% city and 30% highway. Is anyone elses this bad or am i just not smooth enough?
2) Durability, the dash has cracked from sun exposure (i guess) the clips on the sunglasses and garage door remote break super-easy and my cupholder breaks if i put a drink in that is over a medium.
3) Electrical Issues, lights are weak, tow lights are iffy, if i turn the wheel to hard or roll down a window all the lights go dim. Anyone else have this prob.?

There are many more and i would like to hear others problems, if you can repost with any help, or to complain like myself :) it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your time.
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Comments

  • paparampaparam Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 2500 4x4 and have over 275k on it and have had none of the problems you list.

    Yes, it only gets 12.3mpg at highway speed. I do 99% on road driving.

    For the most part I lived in California, I never did anything special inside or out and have no cracked dash. I now live in Arizona and still have no problems other than the exterior paint cracking off.

    You failed to mention if your truck is auto or stick. Mine is a 5 speed. You may of provided your own answer in not being smooth in the stop and go department.

    As far as the electrical problem. It sounds like you need a good mechanic to go over it. Of course we are talking lots of $$$ here, they don't find the problem and fix it anymore it is just swap out parts till the problem is fixed.

    Good luck
  • schmedlyschmedly Member Posts: 44
    I have a '98 with 131K on it and it runs GREAT. It's up for sale right now, but that's because I have never kept a car over 75K before. This thig simply won't screw up. No dash or electrical problems. OK, yes, it does go thru a considerable amount of fuel. A little better than yours, but not much. I swallow that loss for its dependability. I have have overloaed the heck out of it hundreds of times and it just does not complain. I'm starting to talk myself out of selling it.
  • yog1yog1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 00 1500 sport 4x4 with 35" tires and get about 10 to 12 mpg. That is the same as with the stock tires and rims. My dash also cracked from the heat, normal for them because it is a weak spot in mold for dash. If lights dim then upgrade to a higher amp alt and newer battery. I pull a trailer and put in a 140 amp alt with duel batterys
  • aw14108aw14108 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having all kinds of proble,s with my 04. It stalled at a traffic light the other day, my wipers only work sometimes, and now my driver door lock is frozen in the lock position. I can't even put the key in the door and open it. Pulling up on the handle on the inside doesn't work either. I'm ready to drive it into a lake.....Any help for the door lock?
  • dr2500dr2500 Member Posts: 2
    Mine is a '94 2500. It runs awesome. only 58k miles. I want to get an intake and make it like a pre-runner. but that'll come later.
  • dhayes125dhayes125 Member Posts: 5
    I just purchased a 06 ram 2500 with a plow. First storm I used it the Alternator gauge would go low when I lifted the plow and set off the warning light. Dealer told me to buy a new battery with more reserve. Electrical system is simply not strong enough to operate an electric powered plow. I am waiting for my alternator to burn out. Should have purchased a Ford.
  • minkyboodle1minkyboodle1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 ram. 3.7L V6. What is the official name of the part where you put the oil in? The part of it that connected to the PCV valve is broken and I want to replace it.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The part is referred to as the Oil Filler Housing or Oil Filler Tube.

    I bet I know how it got broken, too!

    The PCV valve twists out by rotating it counterclockwise and pulling it away from the housing.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Come now. The gasoline Ford SuperDuty gets a 115 ampere alternator with a 650 cold cranking amp (CCA) battery (standard), the RAM 2500 has a 136 ampere alternator with a 600 CCA battery (standard). Both Dodge and Ford upgrade to a 750 CCA battery on their plow package.

    I see plows outfitted on RAMs occasionally enough to know that current draw is not generally problem with the standard electrical package. What make and model of plow is this?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • minkyboodle1minkyboodle1 Member Posts: 3
    Now, here is the million dollar question: Know where I can get one? (preferably cheaper than the dealer)
  • dhayes125dhayes125 Member Posts: 5
    The truck has a snow plow prep package which gives it a 160 amp alternater. The plow is a fisher 8ft HD. The dealer told me that their own truck that they use for their lot does the same thing.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm afraid that this is probably a dealer only part at the moment.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I had to wait until after 5:00 PM here in Rochester, New York in order to check our 2000 Dodge. Ours has a Western Plow-plus. The blade looked like a 7 1/2 or 8 foot. Bringing the blade up caused the voltage gauge needle to drop. I asked the guy who plows our parking lots if this was normal. He looked and said, "yeah, it's always been like that."

    The alternator is the original 136 ampere. So I guess it's normal.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dhayes125dhayes125 Member Posts: 5
    The problem might be with the fisher plow it self. It appeas that the alternator is charging ok. The plow pump might be defective and drawing too much elect.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I can tell you that on our 2000 the voltmeter did drop some, but of course I can't tell if it's dropping as much as yours. It wasn't dark enough to see if the headlights dimmed, but in my experience they typically dim a little. A good friend of mine has a '03 Chevy and his lights dim when he raises the plow.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • marshwalkermarshwalker Member Posts: 5
    My 1986 Dodge Ram 4x4, keeps [non-permissible content removed] down on me. While driving My electrical system will shut down. The problem just started.What I can't figure out is that I'll lose the headlights, strereo,horn(which is a button mounted to the dash, and direct to the battery), and the starter will turn the engine over but won't fire the fuel. The prob. doesn't happen all the time tho. I've been under the hood shaking wires trying to cause said prob, to no avail, but as soon as I want to drive it down the road it'll cut off on me. Any suggestions.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, don't be misled by the horn button. It is not connected directly to the battery. The horn is operated through the Horn Relay.

    I would recommend that you obtain the electrical wiring diagram for that year RAM. You need to isolate potential possibilities and trace the issue down through the logical wiriing harnesses and connectors.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • marshwalkermarshwalker Member Posts: 5
    What I meant was I installed the horn button. The steering wheel horn doesn'rt work.
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Member Posts: 12
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Member Posts: 12
    How can i use 4wd low range for towing my 5th wheel (11000 lbs) up steep grades by disengaging the front wheel drive on dry pavement and curved roads.....WARN does not show any parts for me....'96 Ram, V10, 2500, 4wd. Any suggestions?
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Member Posts: 15
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Member Posts: 15
    Hi...Does anyone know how to remove the wiper arms on a 98 Dodge Ram...I see a little tab on the arm where it connects, but it does not seem to move...Any help would be appreciated.
  • minkyboodle1minkyboodle1 Member Posts: 3
    Don't see the answer in your owner's manual? Ask here!
  • paldalpaldal Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SRT 10. Our truck vibrates at 75 MPH. Not at 70 MPH. Not at 80 MPH. Only at 75 MPH. We've had the wheels checked and balanced twice now and still, the whole cab seems to vibrate. If anyone has this issue or knows what it could be, I would really appreciate a little insight!!!
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    More than likely, your driveshaft needs balancing - or your exhaust system is experiencing some harmonic vibration at that speed.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check for a bent driveshaft. I've heard of one SRT-10 that had this problem and unfortunately it was caused by the tremendous torque and hooking the tires up.

    I've also seen a couple of RAM 1500s that had dry U-joints that caused a similar problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • slobergsloberg Member Posts: 1
    We are driving our first Dodge (2003) as well as first diesel. We have averaged $300/month on repairs mostly u-joints, which causes a vibration. We drive mostly highway, no off road miles. We also had a bent drive shaft which caused a vibration too. Any one else out there having these problems. We really like the truck, just wish we could figure out why the recurring problem. Someone with a 98 Dodge diesel was told his engine is too heavy, threfore the u-joint problems.
    Anyone else have a similar experience? We would like to get this fixed or we will have to get rid of the truck.
  • frodermanfroderman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 Diesel. Bought it used from the original owner. He tells me that it does not have a lift kit on it but it seems REALLY high. How does one tell if it has been lifted or not?
  • frodermanfroderman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dodge 2500. I would like to install (or have installed if it is to difficult) Clearance lights on top of the Cab. Does anyone know if this truck is pre-wired for this type of installation or do I have to run wires all the way back to a central location?
  • vanessac0510vanessac0510 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, My husband and I have been working on this truck, it was hit on the front fender of the drivers side, the crossbar was hitting the frame so we replaced it. Now it doesn't seem to turn as sharp, actually it wont turn sharp at all to make a turn right to another street I have to get in the opposite lane then back up again to get it going right.It turns left just fine. The left side was the one hit. Does anyone have any input on this? What could be going on?
  • eatkinseatkins Member Posts: 9
    hey guys..am looking for a new seat covers for my car...does anyone ve an idea where should i get them ???
  • jan01jan01 Member Posts: 9
    hi all i have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 it has a securty system acording to the window sticker. i already have a keyless remote to un lock the doors .how do you arm the securty system with the remote i already have thanks jan01.
  • eatkinseatkins Member Posts: 9
    well after surffing the internet for more that an hour...i found a very nice and well organized website..they ve it all..all the makes with all the models, sub models and the years..anyway..if anyone is looking for a new seat covers for his car... i recommend visiting that site:
    www.barbari.com
  • sean132sean132 Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have an 03 ram 1500 with 79k miles on it. Every once in a while when idling at a red light it will start idling funny. The rpms will jump around between 400 to about 850 and will eventually die if I dont step on the gas. Every time it starts right back up and runs fine for a while. No check engine light when it does it, and no stored codes recently. I checked fuel pressure (48-54 psi) and vacuum (18-21 hg in). The only thing i notices is that at idle the fuel pressure jumps very quickly between 48 and around 54 psi. Im thinking either fuel pump/reg. or maybe iac motor? Any help would be appreciated.
  • gpinogpino Member Posts: 8
    Well .....!! I guess we all are having the same problem with FUEL...I have a 04 Dodge Ram Hemi.
    I have a cold air intake, Hypertec program burned in, Flowmaster CAT back exhaust. I also have a 6 inch lift with oversized all terrain tires.
    You may be be thinking this truck must suck fuel like crazy!!!...but after i add a couple upgrades it helped me A LOT!!! (11.4 on the city).
    About your dashboard????....Buddy!!! only thing you must do is add "Oil Protectant" in regular basis :shades: I live in Arizona and believe me the sun here is hell hot and i dont have any problems with it.
  • ramnsaskramnsask Member Posts: 1
    On my 2007 Ram, the keyless entry only works some of the time. If the fob fails to work, I can start the truck and then turn it off and then the fob will lock or unlock the doors.

    It is annoying as I am usally far away when I am using the remote and have to walk back to lock it or do the start/stop thing. The dealership can't figure it out.

    I've tried both fobs but think the trucks reciever is the problem. Anyone else have this probelm?
  • bigus1949bigus1949 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for anyone who can tell me if a 318 v8 will bolt up to the trans in my truck. It has a 3.7 slant six in it now. Also I am looking for a 1 barrell carb for it. Thanks, Mike
  • doctor95doctor95 Member Posts: 1
    Can I directly place a 255 in a 1983 Dodge B150 van that had a 318 as an original engine?
  • gfm1210gfm1210 Member Posts: 1
    I have had this same problem with my 2007 Ram since I bought it. Have had it in to the Dealer several times, several different items have been replaced. Yesterday it was back in the shop to have a couple more items checked to see what the problem could be causing the intermittent operation. After a Couple of hours of the technician diagnosing and checking per Chrysler's recommendations I was asked to come pick up my vehicle. Upon talking to the service desk I was informed of the problem with the dealer installed remote start system inhibiting the remote keyless entry system and a part was available and would be installed next week. Hope this takes care of my problem.

    Food for thought did you have a remote start system installed by the dealer?

    If you did it might lead the technicians in the right direction to come up with a solution.
  • titanium29titanium29 Member Posts: 38
    I love this forum all you guys! It is a great read for good advice. I like it as much as my 07 Mega 3500 Cummins. But here's my new problem, I'm hoping someone can help me with. How do I make bio-diesel in my backyard, 'cause this $4.75 "low mileage" ULSD diesel with no price ceiling yet in sight is KILLING me! I heard how folks made bathtub gin during prohibition, so how do you make diesel? (actually, I'm mostly kidding, but had to vent and say what most of us are probably feeling)!. Thanks guys! You're all the best!...T29
  • zrattzratt Member Posts: 1
    Wont start. Cranks over but no spark from the coil & the ballace resistor gets so hot you cant touch it. Any ideas?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Check the crank sensor.
  • waltermbwaltermb Member Posts: 4
    all of a sudden, my electric window and door switches and air conditioner fan switch have stopped working-i know little but am i right this is a fuse issue-and or what should i do to get all going again?
  • kmurr1kmurr1 Member Posts: 1
    My nephew just left for college on Monday and just called in a panic to say all of his power windows are down and will not close. He visited a local auto parts store and had the fuses checked; all are good. Has not had any other 'electrical' issues. Any suggestions? Rain is in the forecast:(
  • dsb311dsb311 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02' 1500 ram. My problemis I can't change the direction of the air flow to go from defrost, to the upper body, to the floor and so forth. Also I can't change the tempature from hot to cold. It is stuck on the cold air to the floor. The high/low fan works fine. I Can adjust how hard I want the air to flow, but not the direction or the temp. Also the a/c button and the heated mirror buttons will not work.
  • dooman75dooman75 Member Posts: 4
    i have 96 ram 1500 and ive changed the water pump,thermostat,radiator,even had a cracked head so i replaced it and the truck runs beater but still overheats.anyone have a suggestion?what would i check to see if the heater core would be the problem?
  • muddkingmuddking Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 dodge 2500 diesel trying to hookup trailer brakes, and can't find brake wire at back of truck. Please help.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    The trailer wiring socket should be next to the rear license plate. For a brake controller,in the cab, the wiring for that ("the pigtail") is tucked under the driver's side of the dashboard.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • aaronh1aaronh1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 2500 4x4 quad cab long bed truck with the 3.73 rear axle gear ratio and the hemi engine. I am noticing that the truck is struggling going up hills and a couple people have suggested that I need a truck with a 4.10 rear axle so that I can tow better in hills. Here is the complete outfit: I have a truck camper that fully loaded weighs just under 2000 lbs. I am pulling a 16' stock trailer with 2 horses in. The trailer, tack, and horses combined come in at a little under 7,000 lbs. Should a truck like mine but with the 4.10 rear axle be able to pull something like that? Or will I have to end up getting a diesel truck for my outfit? Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    Aaron
  • dkensokdkensok Member Posts: 1
    Very low mileage truck less than 40,000 miles. Engine will stall after truck reached operating temp. Slant 6 motor. I have heard coil, cat converter, fuel pressure, MAP sensor, etc. Any ideas?
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