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I want an EX base with no options for $21,500 OUT THE DOOR. They only had one with bumper and sill applique. The deal looked like this.
$26,240.00 Selling price
$ 3,865.00 Internet discount
$ 1,500.00 Rebates (competitor, and auto show, $1k and $500 respectively)
---------------
$20,875.00
$ 798.00 Doc fee (OUCH!)
$ 1,390.41 Tax (6%)
$ 41.00 Tag/Title
---------------
$23,104.91 Out The Door price
After much haggling They finally said $22,800 and that is all they will do. I told them their "doc" fee and tag and title was twice what everyone else is getting. I finally told them I would go $22,000.00 and they let me walk. Told them I would buy a little old kia for the loyalty money also but they said it doesn't stack nor does the $500. for financing with kia and the auto show money.
Buy it? What says you experts? Any more money to be saved here? I'm sure I could go around to every dealer in town and beat it by $50 bucks but is it worth the time? Think I can get to $22K?????? Please help, want to buy tonight!
Thanks,
Chad
Keep looking!
Rick Case Kia in Duluth, GA hooked us up. I shot them (well, I shot everyone an email) saying I wasn't happy with the price I had and wanted to better it. I explained in my email I had sat down for hours with a dealer and thought I could still do better. I never mentioned the price. I just hate throwing it out there for the next guy to beat it by $50 bucks or some crap. So I thought it a little more fair to say I just wanted a better price than what I got and who else wanted to compete.
So I got various offers, most pretty close to what I had ($22,800.00) and one way high and Rick Case Kia came back at $22,167.00 OUT THE DOOR! I automatically assumed they were lying or doing some funny business but I called the sales lady last night and she said everything is for real when can I come. I showed up at 10 am this morning and the car was all clean and ready to go out front just waiting for us. I was nervous the whole time. I was just waiting for the screw up somewhere but it never happened. They proved me wrong. Way nice people and pretty much exactly what she said on the phone the night before. I think the finance guy got us for a little rate but my credit union is doing re-fi next week at 2.75%.
I bought a 2012 Optima EX base with the above mentioned goodies for:
$22,167.00 Out the door. No trade. $3k down, financed $19,167.00 for 72 months at 4.10%. Opted not to buy and gap or warranties at this time.
Finance guy kept saying I could get the thousand off or the special rate (which I qualified for) but not both. I think he was making that up. He started at 6.9% and I just about got up and left but he quickly lowered it to 4.9%. I told him I could still do better and he went to 4.10%. I then told him my C.U. has 2.75% (I already checked and qualified for it) and he said great, then you lose the $1k rebate. Whatever, I was done at that point, I got really close to the numbers I wanted and the payment I wanted and all is well. I don't think I left much on the table at all. Very neat car, glad we got it. Thanks again everyone for helping out with this forum!
Chad
PS. and they have some temp sat radio service(doesn't everyone get that?) and free nitro or whatever it is tire fill for life. And Rick Case, Inc. extends the drivetrain warranty to 20 years/200k miles. again, whatever that is worth!
Its an 2012 Optima LX trim, with convenience package, I paid 22k for the out the door price. Im located in Souther Orange County, CA. No finance or trade, paid cash.
Can you guys give me a feedback if that was a good, fair or bad deal? thanks a lot.
End of the month, end of the quarter, just before tax time - it's a decent time to have some leverage with dealers because April is typically a dead month for dealers out there.
with that said, I think $21,000 + tax & title is fair for the EX base - and I would want the 0% apr with that price.
Would have to ask someone else about 0%/36 mths and the discounts. Never could discern if they can be combined or not. I went with longer terms and a little higher rate cause I wanted the discount and next week my credit union is re-fi car at 2.75%
Good luck,
Chad
probably best if you state the price with destination and not include tax and title - because the tax rate can vary so much from state to state.
with that said - you sound like you've done well. why beat yourself up over another 50 bucks? I don't know about you, but I've got my breaking point as to how much I can think it over - it's stressful when you put that pressure on yourself to get the lowest cost ever.
Sorry, I do not recall what car price was exactly and don't have paperwork with me. Sales Tax here is 6% and there was some sort of dealer fee ($400. I think) and $21.00 more for tag and title.
Whatever that math works out to be. In GA we pay tax on the price then they deduct rebates and stuff. So wrong, I know but it is what it is. So I couldn't begin to tell you what the exact number was.
Sorry, not more help.
Chad
fun to drive vs. luxury
really good mpg vs. good mpg
can take the dog vs. not gonna happen
zoom zoom vs. quiet gentle ride
The Mazda sales guy was really slamming KIA for it's reputation in years past - claiming re-sale in notoriously bad for KIA. He also thinks the Optima will soften up over time and feel more like a lincon town car with a 4 cly engine after it breaks in.
He had some valid points, but I truely believe the current edition of the Optima is a winner.
2012 SX Optima
Premium Touring and Tech Package
THe MSRP is $31,600 (including the $750 destination fee).
Has anyone purchased the 2012 SX with the Premium Touring and Tech Package and able to share what they paid so I can try and work the same deal with a dealership here in Orange County or San Diego County here in CA.
Also, if anyone can recommend a dealership in either OC or San Diego County who can give me a good deal, that would be great.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Milo
It's interesting how this game works. First guy calls and offers up $22,800 with 8.25% financing.
I laughed at the rate offered and said "are you serious" he went on about how it includes a rebate that makes it really less - actually seemed insulted by my laugh and hurried to end the conversation. Next guy offers a decent price through the internet on some other model that I didn't request. The local dealer has a no hassel price hanging in the rearview mirror of the EX base for 22,100. They also offer 0% 36 mo. financing for up to $15k.
I'm going to see who will go $21,000 puls tax & title with some attractive financing. Will report back - this is taking place in the San Jose/Bay Area. I don't care how they do it, but all those silly incentives like "college grad" or "owner loyalty" are a bunch of BS to me. It's completely up to the dealer to set the price -I'm pretty sure there's no one at KIA headquarters making sure you were a recent college grad or own a particular vehicle.
New 2012 Kia Optima LX
MSRP..................$21,490
Dealer Discount...-$1,999
Sale Price............$19,491
There's no fine print here saying you must qualify for any special rebate and they also say "All new Kia's have 0% APR available for 36 months with zero down up to $15,000 financed - with your good credit"
Seems like a great price for a no hassle up front quote - plus the financing.
I am a big fan of the Japanese cars. I do think they build a better product than anyone else. They also have a better parts and dealer network in place already. I can usually work on a [non-permissible content removed] car for almost half as much as the parts cost me on the likes of a Kia.
Mazda is hands down the more fun car to drive but it was way noisier on the inside. It also felt way more plastic and cheap or thin kinda than the kia. Odd to say, but the Kia felt more luxurious. Maybe that isn't the right word but it definitely felt more cush on the inside. The kia has a better warranty to cover what may or may not prove to be poorer build quality. The Kia, for not much more money, has more options and is larger. We just gave up on the gas mileage comparison. It is hard to beat skyactive right now.
We also drove the focus, the forte, the soul, and the mazda 6. Other than the stuff I already stated, the kia just our personal choice. We just liked what it offered more than the others.
That being said though, there are several Mazda dealers very close to where we live that offer discount online prices with NO dealer fees. Plus tax and that is all. That really helped us try and compare apples to apples in a world that every dealer wants to charge a different paperwork fee and some as high as $799! In the end though I like the optima and glad we chose it but we only have a thousand miles on it so far. Who knows what it will be like at 100K miles.
Good luck,
Chad
Not quite. Dealers do set the price, but it can be influenced by special offers available from the manufacturer: general rebates, college grad rebates, military rebates, competitive rebates, auto-show rebates, loyalty rebates etc. If you don't qualify for these special offers, it WILL affect your final price.
I've benefited from these kinds of offers before, although not on a Kia. And they DO check your qualifications. For example, when I got a loyalty rebate from Hyundai, I had to bring in the title for the other Hyundai that I owned to show proof of ownership. The dealer needs to check qualifications before they send the rebate form into the manufacturer, to ensure they get the money from the rebate.
I agree that the Japanese build a better car - and it's all in the design to build that makes the difference. American manufacturing is catching up, but I do wonder if they have to cut corners in materials to make up for higher hourly wages. The Mazda 3 leather is like hard vynal - the Optima leather is very impressive.
with that said the Optima being built in Georgia is a plus to me - I definitely feel better buying a car built here in the States.
if I get a price that equates to the same deal as someone with the degree and or a owner loyalty or competitive product rebate - do you think the dealer is losing more money on the deal?
he's not - I assure you.
If you get a price that's the same as someone who qualifies for one or more manufacturer rebates, yes, the dealer doesn't make as much on the car they sold to you, because the manufacturer reimburses them for the rebates.
Have you worked in sales in a dealership so you know this is not true?
but I did sales for over 15 years including advertising for car dealers - and I can assure you they'll do anything to close a deal or take someone to cleaners if they think they can get away with it.
I've also worked in sales for companies that offer the incentives just to make the buyer believe they are special - when they really aren't any different from someone who just knows how to drive a hard bargain.
and yes, it would be easy to produce a fake title or college degree to get the "rebates" because no one is going to make you prove they are real. Would someone really feel bad if they hood winked a car salesman?
As in, falsifying a car title or college transcript to get hundreds of dollars in cash? Unfortunately, there's some people who would not give that a second thought. But in my eyes, it's fraud.
My father worked for GM for over 35 years - he was in finance with GMAC -
I could tell you endless stories of what dealers would do.
I can't tell you much has changed over the years - buyers are certainly better educated coming in, but dealers still play the same games they always have.
Optima SX, Prem. Touring only, no Tech
MSRP: $30,450
Incentives: Competitive-$1K, and Kia Finance-$500
Financing: 1.9% for 36 months
Location: Alexandria, VA
Price: $26K, plus tax, tags, and processing fee
Just completed my purchase of the Kia Optima EX Premium Package, ebony black with beige leather interior, accessorized with Cargo Mat, Cargo Tray and Door Sill Applique, MSRP $27,100 from Lev Kia in Framingham, Massachusetts.
I was amused to discover that the Hyundai Sonata Limited is exactly the same car as the Kia. Yes, there are differences: the body styling is different, Hyundai has their OnStar-like satellite system while Kia has their Ford-Microsoft Sync-like voice control system, the dashboard layouts differ, and the suspension is tuned differently. But, essentially they are the same and I decided I could live with either car. I like the Kia styling a little more.
I didn't want to pay more than $400/mo for sixty months, and here's how I got there:
MSRP $27,100
Competitive Discount $ 1,000
Finance Bonus $ 500
Trade-In allowance $ 2,300
Final Price $23,300
Down-payment $1,000
Mass. sales tax (6.25%) $ 1,456.25
Doc & Prep $ 299
Tags $ 100
Total Price $25,155.25, writing a check for $2855.25, financing $22,300 @2.9% for 60 months = $400/mo.
They met my price by giving me $2,300 on a beat-up 2004 Chevy Malibu with 120k miles. They were originally offering $1500, which was more than I expected, so I was satisfied.
I don't think the car is worth more than $1000, so I feel as if I paid $24,300 versus the Edmunds True Value list of $25,663.
if the msrp was 27100, what was the selling price before the deductions?
How do you get a "competitive" discount?
My Sonata lease is up soon and I am starting the looking process..
enjoy the new ride!
The competitive discount is available to anyone who has, or is trading, a car in the same class as the KIA Optima: mid-size sedan. I think it covers people who have, or are trading, a KIA as well. The list of cars is available on their website in a PDF file, and includes just about every non-luxury model I can imagine including some SUVs. I've seen some lists that limit the model years, but KIA does not:
Click here for qualifying models and "View Details."
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Negotiated price: $29647.02
Cap reduction(Incentives): -$3400
True negotiated price: $26247.02
Title & Registration: $281.70
Doc fee: $399
Im buying in VA so car sales tax is 3% (NJ is 7.5% but you only had to pay about 1/2 since it was a lease) which would be another 800-1000 depending on if it is calculated on negotiated price before or after incentives.
So that means out the door in VA to get a similar deal I would be looking at about $28k out the door. That is FAR beyond anything I have even considered around here... I am seeing SXs go for around 4000-4500 below MSRP before Tax/Tags etc. MSRP on the hybrid is 32,500 loaded so 28k would be before fees and OTD would be about $29500.
Problem is if I tried to buy in NJ I would pay an extra 4% sales tax or about $1200 which would eat up the savings. I might have to wait until December and try your method in this area.
Trucar, Edmunds Market Price, KBB, NADA, invoice pricing, etc. IMO don't mean anything if the dealer doesn't match it or buy at that price. A deal in hand is better than 6 online price guides.
My little soap box
#1--having a 'dealer invoice' is like the furniture store that inflates the price to have a 50% off sale. I think reading forums is the best information and when they let you walk away (as I have read in here), I think that is a good idea that you have a low price. So many of these deals are 'below invoice.' How does a dealership stay in business if they are giving away cars?
#2--most used cars are only worth auction price. Any extra I got was just the stealership working off the price of the new one.
#3--Documentation fees are just a notice to the customer of the minimum profit they want. Imagine if you got charged by the store for them making a receipt. Crazy!
I negotiated with many places. Most said that I needed to come by and would not give written offers. I was also trying to get estimates on the trade-in.
$32,495 MSRP for the 2012 Kia Optima Hybrid included destination charge of $750
Option 1: $29,195 ($1500 in rebates; $2,000 dealer discount; destination and $200 processing)
Option 2: $28,735 ($1500 in rebates; $2638 dealer discount; destination and $379 processing)
If you were not trading in a car, I think these are good deals off the top. Walking in off the street, this is what your could expect.
I went with Option 1 because they offered a better trade amount (about $1500 more than anyone else or KBB fair value), they met the other dealer's price, and had lower documentation fees. They also had the best customer service. I do not mind people making money, and in this area of the US, I like to reward good customer service (hard to find).
$27050 sales price (includes $200 documentation, $750 destination, $1500 rebates; $1500 extra trade over auction value) before taxes, title, license.
In the finance room, I chose a bank that helped make the dealer another $200 (banks pay dealers to sell their products) and negotiated another 1% point lower on the initial interest rate.
Remember:
Patience on getting a deal.
You can refinance a car as new with a credit union up to 7500 miles and/or 3 months and usually free.
The dealer needs to make some money, just not all at one time.
Everything is negotiable at all times--throw in oil changes, after market sunroofs, lower interest rates, etc...
Anyway, I need help - and I really wish on the forums, locations were posted (I know some were) when it comes to not only HOW much someone paid, but WHERE they bought the car.
So this post is for you California drivers!
I'm looking to purchase an Optima EX with the Premium package and I'm having a hard time getting a "ballpark" figure, or range, of what one would cost in California. I was looking for a purchase price, NOT a lease price - any feedback would be great! Thanks in advance!
I got it for $23,000 out the door. No lease, no finance, no trade in.
Im loving my car, i made a good choice, and i think i got it for a fair deal.
Let me know what you guys think?
Need details like msrp, purchase price, fess tax to decide if the deal was good/fair. Posting 23k o-t-d does little for us out-of-state guys
I'm about to finish a deal for the 2012 Optima SX Turbo fully loaded, with tech and premium package. They've added wheel locks, all weather floor mats, rear bumper applique, cargo net, tinted windows, and remote start. In the deal there's a 2 year free maintenance included.
I'm getting the $1,000 of competitive incentive. Dont remember very well on the final negotiated price, but the Lease comes out to be $448 per month, 36 months and 15K miles, nothing down, just registration fees, $200 bucks.
I've been shopping around in nyc, and got very similar prices, but without all the features.
Is this a good deal? I see a lot of people on this forum talking about payments within the 350-400 range.
I'd appreciate your comments. Thanks!
Rule of thumb on a decent lease deal is $12 per $1000 of MSRP for a standard 36 month, 12k per year lease deal. Given that you are at 15k per year that will reduce the residual by 2%. Need the selling price, residual % and money factor to do the real calculations.
Your current deal seems too high especially given the 1000 rebate.
FWIW, I leased my 2011 Sonata for less than $11 per 1000 of MSRP but they were giving them away when they first came out.
MF: 0.00060
Residual: 55%
Final Selling price: 28,500
Got an e-mail offer on a Ebony Black for $28,365. They were giving $3500 off including $1500 in incentives and $2005 discount. Used that e-mail to shop on phone and in person at other dealers which had Satin Metal cars, color my wife wanted. My closest dealer matched and that was where she had previously test driven the very car she bought, so my wife is very happy.
We have no garage so unfortunately she wanted the protection packages and more warranty for the electronics. Also added the new remote start module for $599 which at least saves me having to go out and warm up her car. But we bundled at a very good discount and will pay off the car in 3 years at $627mo, choosing the KIA 1.9% instead of the 0.9% with a lower down payment. We also keep our cars at least 10 years.
Usually buy at no-haggle dealerships but this was very similar and no high-pressure crap. Not the best deal but we are very satisfied.
FYI, with the SX Limited (Chrome-mobile) coming either this Summer or Fall, the turbo motors for the EX are nowhere to be found where we are in Maryland and so even SXs are getting very scarce. The White's are so rare here they are going for list. Go figure.
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Just bought a 2012 Kia Optima LX w/Convenience Package
MSRP $22590
Cash Price (w/o TTL) $20,800
Competitive Rebate -$1,000
KIA Financing -$500
Final Cash Price $19,300 + TTL
MSRP $24,095. Invoice price about $22k-ish. (sorry - not in front of me)
MF of .00070 and Residual of 56%.
After deducting $1k competitive bonus, and with $1375 down, my payments would be $239 per month for 36 months, 36k miles. Kia financing.
Is this a good offer? I really want the EX with Premium Package. They have one on the lot that also includes Tech Package (which I don't care about) - MSRP about $28,445. They first said my monthly on this would be $335 (with everything else the same - $ down, etc.) Sales manager then asked me what I would be willing to pay monthly to get the car. My friend who was with me (was in car business as sales mgr & finance mgr) said I should be able to get it for $300 per month.
I'm going on Monday to look at a couple other EX's w/Premium Package only - $27k sticker. I understand current incentives end Monday.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
I have spent the past hour reading through this great thread. I am in the market for an Optima EX with the Premium Package(panoramic sunroof, speakers, etc). I am located in northern Florida and am curious if anyone has an tips as far as a starting point on price, rebates, etc. I have been to a dealer, I have test driven and such and I know this is what I want. I have not sat down to crunch numbers yet and really wanted to get some fuel for when I initially sit down to start the process.
I have 3K to put down. I am also eligible for the competitive bonus as I am trading in my 2005 4Runner yet will only break even on that. It would be nice to keep my payments around $400.
Does anyone has any recent personal experiences they could share that may help? Any ideas on how i could work this? I'm all ears an appreciate any assistance in advance! This thread is great!
If you are interested, you can see the details of my deal on the lease thread:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f229a32/166#MSG166
Not sure if the incentives carried over to May, but there was $1000 lease cash AND $1000 competitive/loyalty rebate at the time your dealer made his offer. They absolutely can be combined, I did it. Don't let them lie to you.
Good luck!
I ended up closing the deal by trading in my 2011 Optima EX.
Final details can be read on my other post under the Leasing Questions thread.
Final MF ended up being about .00045 based on some number crunching I've done myself after the fact.
Hope this helps!
Is something wrong with inventory?
Good Deal?
I really did not want it unless it was an amazing deal so i entertained him on the thought just to get a price from him. He shot me a price of 26660 and I walked out.
He called me today and told me a new sales case manager was willing to relook at the deal (obvious BS but i now knew the ball was in my court) and so I told him I'd pull the trigger on the car if he would sell at 25300 BEFORE incentives + TTL and no further haggling.
He called me later and agreed to the price on my voicemail.
I've decided to pull the trigger after all, despite the color being black. I'll walk out again if they try anything funny with the price but it looks like the deals been made
I am looking for the same.. where did you buy it? Dealer? I am in S. Cal. Re the incentive, is it for anyone? I would appreciate your response very, very much. thanks
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