2013 and earlier Kia Optima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

csandste · January 2009

Backy--Agreed. I thought I got a big discount on mine-- $16K with leather and the appearance group but this is an entire new level of discount. Of course the 09 is out. Are you still looking at the Optima? I know ESC is important and it's now standard-- right? For the record, other than the standard safety goodies (important I know), I really find the 09's rear end looks like the two gen. old Accord. Not as good as the 08 IMHO.

For the record, I plan on driving my Optima into the ground.

backy · January 2009

You should feel good about the deal you got. It cost more than the basic Optima the other buyer bought, but you have a lot more equipment on your car, so it should cost more. Try to get a comparably equipped new mid-sized car anywhere close to $16k even in today's rotten car market. And if you use up that 10-year warranty and drive the car into the ground, who cares about depreciation?

capt4 · January 2009

from Slickdeals.net

http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=0&t=1126567

2008 NEW Kia Optima HUGE incentives $12676 OTD YMMV

I just bought a brand new 4D car with AT (162 HP, 164 ft-lbs torque, 31 mpg Hwy), AC, power windows, power locks, CD player, cruise, heated mirrors & steering wheel controls for stereo & cruise - out the door for under $13000. Price before tax, doc fees, etc was under $11,000. The sticker on this car was over $18,500 before tax, doc fees, etc. A little background & I'll explain how I got there.'

For those thinking about car shopping, now's a great time to buy. The economy's slow, new car lots are overloaded with inventory, new models are replacing the 2008s & some places are desperate to make a deal. :shades:

I had been looking at used cars & was frustrated with what people were asking, often wanting above dealer retail listed on www.edmunds.com & www.kbb.com - never been a new car guy. However, I decided to look into new vehicles with all the 'teaser' rates around $10,000 in the paper (I'm in the Las Vegas area, if that matters). Many of the 'teaser' ads are for a car that doesn't exist with a combination of rebates for which no human can qualify (i.e. Military, recent college grad, lease loyalty, dealer loyalty, etc). That said, there are still plenty of deals to be had if you do your homework, you're patient & you're persistent.

One example: The 2008 Kia Optima - if it's not your cup of tea, that's fine - I wouldn't have bought one five years ago. They've come a long way to be mentioned along the Toyota Camry, Honda Accord & also greatly improved Hyundai Sonata. It's a plain, simple car, maybe not as nicely appointed as the Camry or Accord but the gap has narrowed. My research changed my mind - internet research, word of mouth from friends & even people inside the auto industry. IF you can live with the fact it's going to depreciate faster than Toyota or Honda because of market perception & IF you don't see a car as a status symbol, this may be a very slick deal for you. Personally, I don't mind having a 2008 instead of 2009 as I'm going to keep & hold this car for a long time; that's also why I'm not getting caught up in depreciation concerns. The 2009 Optimas are coming in & have design changes, so now's the time to make a deal. You still get 5 yr/60K bumper to bumper warranty.

Current rebate on the Optima is $4000 for the 2008 model according to Kia http://www.kia.com/#/optima/offers/ In addition, you might qualify for an additional $400 if you're a recent college grad (we did, as my girlfriend graduated in May). It helped that I knew what another friend had paid several months ago, knowing I'd be able to lean on the dealer to get below invoice, which is $16,595 - by the time you add destination charge, it's $17,235 for the LX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5A). My friend had paid just over $15,000 several months ago, but that number included a dealer incentive as well - didn't matter, that's what I wanted, less the $4000 rebate & the $400 college grad rebate. My target price was $12,600 out the door - never expected to get that, cuz everything had to go right to get to that price, but it was my goal.

All of the Kia dealers told me I couldn't get that, because the previous price was based on a dealer incentive to get it close to $15,000. The second dealer budged a little, eventually agreeing to $13,692 out the door (~$16K less $4,400 rebates plus tax, doc fee, etc); they showed me the paperwork claiming they were taking close to a $2,000 loss since they admitted they desperately needed to move inventory. (I do believe they'd take a loss, but closer to $1,000 once holdback & other incentives were taken into account.) I called my girlfriend, told her she'd have to go with the next day if we did the deal as she was the one who qualified for the college grad rebate. I asked if she was willing to take a shot at the third dealership that night, since that's where my friend bought the car - she agreed. We went, they tried to tell me the same things, claiming the lowest they could go was ~$16K less $4,000 (rebates) plus tax, doc fees, etc. - just over $14K. I told them I already had a deal lower than that, wanted $13K & was willing to pay cash. Their 'concession' was to say they found another $1000 rebate, leaving us just over $13,000. (I don't believe it existed, think it was their way to save face to get the deal.) We hadn't yet discussed the college grad rebate, I told them it would finish the deal - since the rebate comes from Kia, they went for it. $12,676 out the door for a car that would've been over $20,000 at sticker. (Already tinted - necessary in Nevada - & with a security package.) I was willing to do the deal at $13,692 so obviously I was ecstatic to get it for $12,676.

The biggest suggestions I have are:
* Be prepared - do your research & homework, know what rebates & deals exist locally
* Be patient - the first dealer may not give you what you want, I went to three Kia dealers (and many other dealers, sitting on inventory but being more stubborn)
* Be persistent - be ready to walk away if you think they're jerking you around, stick to your guns
* Be aware - know the dealer's pain points & match that (i.e. excess inventory, no activity, poor cash flow) - it helped that I offered to pay cash to close the deal
* Be decisive - when you get the deal you want, be prepared to 'pull the trigger' & act quickly - it's a reasonable thing to offer once you've gotten what you want

Hope this helps a bunch of folks out there, it can work for any car but it's hard to beat the 2008 Kia Optima for value if you're looking for a midsize sedan.
Last edited by delgadobb : 01-12-2009 at 08:49 PM.

sudsy2 · February 2009

Just purchased 2008 Optima EX - $20,199 sticker - paid $13976. Was delighted. Drove it home - 270 miles all interstate - got 25.5 mpg. Disapointed. How long before I get maximum mileage?

csandste · February 2009

Hyundai/Kia engines are notoriously tight. The best mileage I got on a 2.4 was about 40, all interstate. It's my wife's car and mostly around town without getting warmed up-- in general she gets worse than I do in my Malibu Maxx 3.5 liter V-6 about 20, but she drives differently than I do. On normal highway driving, I think you could average about 30 when everything's broken in -- @ 5-10,000 miles.

mohatu · May 2009

Got it last week for $17650. It was funny when the dealer tried to sneak in the destination fee of $675 into the final bill of sale ON TOP of the sale price. This fee was withdrawn after I threatened to leave.

Do I miss something here? I was pretty sure that the final dealer's final sticker/sale price does include destination, and only TTL is extra.

backy · May 2009

No, you didn't miss something.. obviously the dealer HOPED you'd miss something.

csandste · May 2009

Further proof that both Hyundai and Kia need to focus on dealer quality. I bought an Optima because in my case (at least) Kia has the better, less pushy, dealership. In your case, however, the dealer was obviously trying to pull a fast one.

mohatu · May 2009

No, I wouldn't say it's only HyunKia's dealers' practice... The day before I bought the Optima I was trying to get a deal on the Insight EX no navi at the local Honda store. The talk was EXCLUSIVELY about an EX, I repeatedly made a point I don't want an LX. I picked the certain car from the lot that I wanted. We seemingly did finalize the figures for the deal and I started to fill in the loan app when my wife that was on the phone with me told me to confirm the figures for the one last time before we proceed. Just in case. I said, "So, this EX's price will be..." - and the salesman interrupts, "No-no-no... This is an LX...". All this after about 2.5 hours in the store. Imagine how furious I was. I just stood up and left.

So, one should be extremely careful while making a car deal anywhere. Weird things might happen almost any moment. Those guys count on the fact that you are either so exhausted by the end of negotiations and/or you want their car so badly that you'll agree to or miss these little tricks. Unfortunately, too many buyers do. As for me, yes, pity I couldn't get that Insight. But I'm quite flexible and for me there's many cars out there that I'd like to own and many other dealers to visit. I just move on and finally find what I want. Patience does it.

Of course, I didn't want to offend those dealers who are honest. Too bad they seem to be the minority.

jskay · May 2009

Actually if you look on the Maroni lable (The sticker on the window of ANY car on a lot) it will clearly state that the Optima has a destination fee. Clearly your fault for not looking closely enough at what you were buying.
I am happy to see that you are blaming the salesmen and not the brand for the negotiation deal, I would simply state that at the next KIA dealer you go to and you'll get and explanation and better service.
You will find Kia wants feedback from consumers they follow up with you with surveys through phone and e-mail after purchase as well as when you get your car serviced at the dealer. Anything bad about the car of the dealer will be addressed. If its the car then the 8,000 engineers they have will work on it for next years model.

csandste · May 2009

I've negotiated many new car purchases. If the salesman tells me he's offering the car at $16,000, that MEANS $16,000-- destination charges included. If I went down to make the sale and he had the destination charge re-added in I would turn around and walk out.

kyfdx · June 2009

Exactly...

mohatu · June 2009

Just as csandste said... Let me assure you jskay, I AM well aware of the dest charge existence. My point was that as far as I know, it is the common practice that the final sticker price posted on a car (be it a window sticker or the internet ad) must already include this charge. What the dealer tried to play here was the fact that the actual window sticker attached to the car displayed the official MSRP while their internet advertised price was several thousands less because of manufacturer rebates and dealer discounts. He wanted to persuade me that the inet price did not include dest charge because "the small print in the online ad states that the price advertised does not include TTL AND FEES", "fees" being among others, the dest fee. So, only after I threatened to leave, he agreed to drop this charge.

As for the brand, no, I don't have anything against the brand. Otherwise I wouldn't buy their car, would I? I think KIA is grossly underrated. They deserve much better. On the other hand, it is good for us consumers as it gives us nice cars for very low prices.

mikemartin · June 2009

For my nephew, how does a 2007 V6 LX Optima automatic with 18,400 miles for $7,500 sound?

Both carfax and another title search show it as a privately owned, one owner car.

Thanks.

csandste · June 2009

There's a bunch of these at dealers at about the same price point in St. Louis, but they're probably rental returns.

I haven't checked Edmunds or NADA, but it sounds like a good deal to me. I've had absolutely nothing go wrong with my 07 Optima and Consumer Reports seems to bear this out. Unfortunately for me, and fortunately for your nephew, they depreciate even faster than Hyundais. Probably best bought used after a couple of years...

mikemartin · June 2009

There's a bunch of these at dealers at about the same price point in St. Louis, but they're probably rental returns.

I haven't checked Edmunds or NADA, but it sounds like a good deal to me. I've had absolutely nothing go wrong with my 07 Optima and Consumer Reports seems to bear this out. Unfortunately for me, and fortunately for your nephew, they depreciate even faster than Hyundais. Probably best bought used after a couple of years...

I think he'd be better off with the 4 cylinder because the 6 cylinder requires a valve tappet adjustment which costs over a thousand dollars, and has to be done by the dealership, whereas the 4 cylinder does not.

What do you think of the Subaru Legacy 2.5i?

I really like the safety aspects of that car.

rdillier · July 2009

I follow the Hyundai Sonata boards and learned of the Fitzmall dealership and its online pricing from there. Is there something similar for Kia and the Optima? Most of the dealerships SAY they have an online department, but they all want you to come in (says the spider to the fly) to talk about the car. I'd like to get some solid, online pricing to take in with me so I can still walk out of the dealership with my wallet. Thanks in advance. Bob

pat82 · July 2009

We're looking betwen a KIA optima and a Hyundia Sonata. How much should a 2009 KIA optima be? Edmunds post $17,500 but most dealers post about $21,500 - what' that 4k difference?

Any KIA rebates that anyone knows about coming soon - we're looking topurchase by last of JLy 1st wk or two of August

txoptima77 · July 2009

Just purchased an optima ex I-4 about a month ago, the 17,500 is the price for a base optima with a manual trans. 21,500 is for the sx v6 that is the difference, the sticker on mine was 20,495 i think and its an ex with convienience package. That would be where the difference is coming from, but the 09 optimas have a 2500 dollar rebate, plus if you have a trade that qualifys for cash for clunkers you can get a very nice car for a steal, my wife gave a lawyer at her law-firm a ride to the airport in the optima and he drives a new hyundai genesis and was very impressed with the optima, so, its a great car.....

backy · July 2009

Plus there is a $1000 competitive bonus on the 2009 Optima, which is good on quite a few cars. The problem is, most of those cars probably don't qualify for the clunker cash due to their being fairly small.

mcmax · July 2009

I've driven the '09 Optima LX auto & manual and the '10 Forte EX auto. I like the Forte's mpg, lower price and blue tooth. I think the Optima has a bit smoother ride and a bit better pick-up. So far, prices quoted are as follows:

Optima LX auto $19,740 - $2500 Kia cash, - $1000 comp bonus (own a Camry) - $3500 cash for clunkers = $12,740 + TTL + del (not discussed).

Forte EX auto $17,490 - $1000 comp. bonus (own a Mazda 3) - $4500 cfc = $11,990 + TTL + del??

Since I've never owned a Kia, I'm a bit hesitant... I welcome any advice!

backy · August 2009

What it comes down to is, do you want to pay a little more for a larger car with a smoother ride and more power (also roomier interior), or go for the smaller car with better fuel economy?

Also, I am surprised there is no dealer discount on the Optima. I would expect the dealer would discount the Optima, perhaps more than the Forte since the Forte is a new model. If you like the Optima but are balking because of price, you could make them an offer for $12k (the price of the Forte) and see what they say.

mcmax · August 2009

Hi backy. Got the car I today at a good price w/the cash for clunkers deal.

I'm feeling like I shouldn't have gone into the dealer so tired + I had a very long wait for financing, then had to sign a bunch of papers. Anyway, there were a couple of charges on the final paperwork that I signed off on. One was a $149.50 charge with NO explanation right under the tire tax charge of $1.25. The other was a "theft detterent" charge of $299 which I did not ask for (later found out on the net that it's just etching). So, now I'm feeling like I was ripped off for $450. Yes, feeling like an idiot, and yes, I did sign the paperwork. MAYBE the $149.50 charge is legit - and they "forgot" to put what it was for (but I really can't think of what this charge would be - the fact that there is no explanation is really bothersome). The $299 charge - big rip-off or is there any benefit? I wrote a nice to-the-point email - asking for clarification - to the finance manager awhile ago, but I'm sure they won't get it until Monday. Any suggestions? Sigh...

Just want to add that I didn't buy a KIA, so no diss to them. Just thought you guys might be of some help - if there is any recourse.

backy · August 2009

If you signed the purchase agreement and there was no material misrepresentation on the dealer's part (i.e. telling you something that is not true that would influence your decision had they told you the truth), it's a done deal.

The time to ask them about both charges was before you signed the purchase agreement. But you probably realize that now. Consider it an unpleasant and expensive but valuable lesson in car buying--for you and those who read this discussion.

BTW, what did you buy?

mcmax · August 2009

Yep, kind of figured that might be the answer, but even for that mysterious, no-explanation amount of $149.50? Is there a good way to approach the dealer to at least try (I know, expensive lesson), but I feel like I need to give it a shot.

I bought the Scion Xd. They didn't have the radio installed (some quirky Scion thing), so I'm going back to the dealer tomorrow for that, so I will talk with them...

Maybe I'm beating a dead horse, but they do owe me an explanation for the $149.50 mystery charge at the least. I can't believe that I signed off on that either! Stupid, expensive lesson, but is it just too naive of me to believe they just wouldn't want to lose a future customer for $450? I had talked with them about possibly trading in another car on a Toyota, so do they really not want to p. me off?

Okay, naive, tired, whatever you call it - I've beat myself up enough, I need to at least tell the dealership how I feel. Know that I'm going to talk with them, just don't know who/how to approach it. What more harm could be done? (I'll wait until they install my radio (smile). Thanks.

backy · August 2009

Yes, they should explain every item on the purchase agreement. Sometimes dealers DO make mistakes on the paperwork--so it doesn't hurt to ask. Try to keep a calm but businesslike demeanor when you talk with them. You may have a long relationship with that dealer (or maybe not...).

csandste · August 2009

I think dealer experiences can be reported on the board-- no?

I would think that identifying the dealer would be worth a lot more potential losses than the small amount they scammed from you.

backy · August 2009

Dealer names can be posted. But posting the name of the dealer doesn't "spend" as well as getting money back, if in fact it was "scammed." :shades: If it were me, I'd post the dealer's name AND check into the validity of the mysterious $149 charge. (The etching charge has been explained already.)

mcmax · August 2009

I went to the dealership today for installation of the radio. While that was being done, I asked to see the finance man. I said I had questions about two of the charges. He said the $149.50 charge was for document fees and that "every dealer has document fees". I said I didn't have any idea what it was since it wasn't listed on the paperwork. Not knowing if I was going to get anywhere with that, I then asked him about the $299 fee. He said it was for etching and the national database and that all the dealership's cars have it. I said it sounds like the same thing I can do with a $20 kit and 15 minutes of my time. He then said "I don't want to upset you." I said good. He said he would refund the money for the etching and I would receive a check in 10 days for $299. It's kinda funny - I was very calm, to the point,but firm. He said "I don't want to upset you" twice (which was weird because I wasn't "upset", quite the opposite). Me thinks he's had to go through this before...and knows it is a scam. I shook his hand and left. $149.50 seems high for "document fees" but I'm just happy to get $299 back.

Now if the check doesn't come... I will post the dealership name. As I'm typing this, two of his other dealerships' commercials have aired on the TV. Weird.

backy · August 2009

Document fees are a legit charge, although $149 is on the high side. You did well on keeping your cool and getting the $299 back.

iluvmysephia1 · August 2009

congrats on getting the $299 back, your questioning paid off!

m6user · August 2009

The "standard" doc charge in Illinois, which is the most allowed by state law which is of course the amount that every dealer charges is about $150 now. I think it is actually $151.50 or something like that. Twenty years ago it was $75 so you can see how much it has went up. They can get in trouble charging different amounts to different people so if the dealership charges it to one person that have to charge the same thing to everyone. So they all just charge the same. No discrimination possible that way.

I've heard of a few states that are less but most seem to be in that range. It seems like the SE US dealers are the ones that really tack on the charges....like $400 to $700 which is really gouging IMO.

tallgrass1 · August 2009

We just bought a 2009 Optima LX in Cash for Clunkers,,no special features
I think its the most basic model - we paid $11,500. after the KIA rebate, the competitor rebate for our VM passat (both these rebates totalled $3500) , and the $3,500 we got for the Cash for Clunkers. I always think to myself I could have gotten a "better deal",,if I had held on a little longer. The MSRP including a few small options, like floor mats and cargo net and tray, was $19,145.00

tallgrass1 · August 2009

For our new black car, any tips on keeping the finish up ? The dealer promoted "the Protector",,which we did get for our Passat years back. I can't say if it has helped the Passat or not,,,but I would say, the finish doesn't look half bad for a car with 140,000 miles on it.

So, my question is, what are others experience with "The Protector" ? Is it worth the $895.00 price ( for both interior and exterior)..or are there other products recommended that would do as well, The dealer promoted "the Protector" as anti-rust agent as well.

Thank you for any advice. It seems like a black colored car will "show everything",,,so I am concerned about keeping it up.

backy · August 2009

I use Meguiar's Gold Class liquid on my cars and have had good results. I have to park two of them outside now (the other two get the garage; one is at school with my oldest son); one of those is nine years old and the other almost six, and the finish still shines like new. One of those is white, the other bright red (which like black tends to show everything, as does my dark blue Rabbit).

Personally, I enjoy waxing a car and would rather pay $10 once a year or so for a bottle of wax and wax each car 2-3 times a year than pay $895. Also I have a can of Scotchgard I've had for years and use that on cloth interiors as soon as I drive the car home--takes about 10 minutes to apply. But, it's your money, and maybe you don't like the effort involved in waxing a car.

BTW... any wax will act as an "anti-rust agent" by protecting the paint and scratches from the elements.

tallgrass1 · August 2009

Backy- thanks for the recommendation on the wax. That's what I was thinking - maybe just a good wax ( 2-3 times year) is all I need for much less $$.

Also, thanks for mentioning the Scotchgard. In general, how often do you apply it ?

I have the "beige" interior

csandste · August 2009

The dealer makes a good deal and then recoups his money with finish protectors, pinstriping and extended warranties. No thank you!

backy · August 2009

I've only applied the Scotchgard once per car. But I keep my car interiors pretty clean (or try to, with kids and a dog). Maybe you would want to apply it again after a steam cleaning or shampooing.

I bet the black and beige is very sharp. I've never owned a black car, because of the high maintenance factor. But they look great when clean.

tallgrass1 · August 2009

Yes,,,this time I'm glad I said, "no thank-you!",,,

And yes, the black and beige,,( a sand beige ) is sharp. Due to the C4C,,there were only 2 Optimas left,,both black, ,and somehow I forgot my own reservations about a black car, and purchased it.

Its only today, the next day, am I remembering why I have had previous reservations about this color, and yes, its the high maintenance,,,...

Our silver/grey Passat has been not much trouble to keep nice,,,and I like it that way,,,so this will be something new,,,!

mcmax · August 2009

Just wanted to let you know that I did receive the $299 check in the mail...more than paid for the window tinting.

I saw your post about waxing...just wondering if you have any recommendations on scratches...some jerk decided he needed to key our Mazda 3; it's not very deep - I've heard that something called Mother's powerball?? helps take scratches out.

Since this is a Kia forum, I do have a Kia comment/question. I liked the Optima (and the warranty!) and figure prices might be lower soon since CFC is over. Do you think the '09s will be around for awhile and will be going down in price? I might consider trading another car that doesn't have side airbags or traction control.

backy · August 2009

For scratches, depends on how deep they are. If the primer shows, I've found a "paint crayon" can mask many of those, if not too wide. Otherwise probably need touch-up paint, a very fine brush (e.g. from a hobby store), and a very steady hand.

I think the '09 Optimas will be available at good prices near the end of the year. Kia tends to introduce its new models around the end of the year (with some mid-year exceptions like the 06.5 Optima). Prices were very low in my area before C4C started. Have gone up about $1500 since then.

thegraduate · June 2010

Is anyone buying this car?

backy · June 2010

I know Hertz is buying quite a few of them.

wb9696 · July 2010

I purchased the a 2010 LX with the LX Convenience Package Friday July 30, 2009 while I doing my deal the dealership sold 3. I believe I received a great deal.

ahq · August 2010

One of the Kia dealerships in my area still has a bunch of brand new 2009 Optimas! How much did your 2010 LX w/Convenience package go for, if I may ask? How do you like your car thus far?

wb9696 · August 2010

$16,000 plus tax, title, tags. I received a $3,000 rebate.

ahq · August 2010

Yeah, the 2010 Optima LX w/Convenience package is going for just a hair over $16K out here as well. I can pick up a new 2009 LX w/Convenience pkg for about $13,900 which includes $3500 cash back plus $500 competitive bonus cash back. That's a lot of car for the money, although I was a bit underwhelmed when I test drove one in June. I might give it another shot next week.

Sandman6472 · August 2010

Does it drive as well as the 2010 Sonata? I enjoyed that car with the power drivers seat...very comfortable and it got up to speed nicely. Isn't the Optima the same car with different front & rear facia? Too bad it's a bit to long for my side of the garage...really enjoyed the way the Sonata drove actually...better than my current Civic!

The Sandman :sick: :shades:

csandste · August 2010

The 2010 Optima has a different platform than any Sonata, using struts up front. Actually closer to the Elantra, though it really only shares with the Rondo. The four cylinder engine is essentially the same as the last gen. Sonata, the six was the smaller engine from two generations ago.

I assume the new 11-12 Optima will share engines and platform with the Sonata. Things get so tweaked these days that I'm not sure what a platform is any more. I do know that the last gen Sonata had links and the Optima struts so there were differences.

csandste · August 2010

I should have probably added that the first generation Optima and third gen Sonata were essentially the same car with different front and rear clips.

2013 and earlier Kia Optima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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