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Nissan Quest Heating / Cooling Problems

2

Comments

  • aj4611aj4611 Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I did manage to get the HVAC controller out - I had a Haynes Repair Manual and the instructions to remove it were slightly out of place.

    The connectors on the HVAC controller look fine, I made sure that all the connectors are snug and not loose. I am waiting for the weather to give me some high temps in the 90s to really confirm if things have changed..

    I will keep u posted.

    Rgds,
    AJ
  • motonationmotonation Posts: 34
    I'd put some dielectric on that connector shown in my pictures if you still have it disassembled. Can't hurt! And it was definitely my problem.

    (Our van is at the tire shop right now, having tires put on at 245K miles; I think this might be our 6th set of tires) :P

    Be back later tonight sometime.
  • I would like to know if anyone would be kind to help me solve this problem, I was on a long road trip. and my front ac blower stop working. I check the fuses, everything check out find. when I start the car the front comes on and fade to stop working. The rear AC is working just fine. Please help.
    thanks
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    This sounds like a connection problem whereby a broken or cracked lead heats up due to a poor connection to the point where the expansion from heat causes the connection to separate. You don't mention whether or not it does this in all speed modes or one. If in one or two speed modes it could be the front blower motor resistor network that needs to be replaced.
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    99 Villager Sport, 3.3l, 139k miles.
    I have had my A/C system leak out refrigerant (likely shrinking seals) over a winter to the point where it was blowing warm when we used it the following summer. I took it to a mechanic to get belts and seals and water pump replaced and have him look at the A/C system. He asked if it was working fine the previous summer (which it was) and suspected seals that were leaking. He asked if I wanted it charged and because the wife HAD to have A/C before a trip we were taking in a couple of days, I said yes. It is a 134a system but he filled it with Red Tek (I did not know). The system worked fine for a while but now the rear A/C only blows warm while the front continues to blow cold so I know there is no leak in the refrigerant lines.
    I am suspecting that the rear expansion valve has become plugged and needs to be replaced.

    Has anyone else experienced this or gone through this repair? The expansion valve is under $10.
  • I'm looking at the same issue. I just replaced the blower resistor and it's overheating. Did you find the solution? Replace the blower motor?
  • skybiz1skybiz1 Posts: 3
    1995 Villager rear blower not working. Front panel works fine but will not control rear blower also will not transfer control to rear panel. Temp control and upper and lower conrol button work fine on rear control. blower motor works when connected directly to 12v dc.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,800
    This is a known problem (at least I think your facts apply).

    If you have No Rear AC Blower Motor on your Villager/Quest (look under SubTopics)

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • skybiz1skybiz1 Posts: 3
    Dear Steve, Thank you for your quick reply. Tis sounds exactly like my problem. How do I get the decorations off the dashboard in order to access the heater panel?
    Glenn
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,800
    Decorations? If you mean all the bezels and such, that link has a few photos.

    And my Fixing a Stuck Tach in a Nissan Quest guide has some dash photos too.

    Good luck!

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • skybiz1skybiz1 Posts: 3
    Dear Steve,
    Thanks for the great info. Once I got the heater control out and opened up the black box it was very obvious that the problem was the relay solder. Took about 35 minutes start to finish to fix including removing and replacing the bezel and the directional louvers in the panel. Thanks again for your help. I look forward to mining your site for other little fixes to my 220,000 miles van.
    Sincerely, Glenn
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,800
    That's great to hear!

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • pkh2pkh2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Nissan Quest problem where the automatic climate control system (doesen't matter if running vent or air conditioner) will randomly cycle off and (after a few seconds) back on. I hear a fairly loud click under the dash in front of the driver concurrent with the cycling. Sounds like the relay you hear when you turn the system on or off. So far, only occurs during moderate outside temperates and not during Winter (40s and below) or Summer (80s and above).
  • kurtokurto Posts: 1
    We just had a similar problem diagnosed as a corroded connector on Left Front Strut Tower in the engine electrical harness. This was after a faulty diagnosis and replacement of alternator. Heard the clicking and many display lights and climate control cycling on and off. Transmission also disengaged at one point (in an intersection). Hope this helps you if you have not had the problem fixed yet.
  • jones26jones26 Posts: 1
    Help??? My van is currently in the shop and there is something wrong with the front end. Had over thousand dollars in work done and still not fix. After making a turn either left or right, van doesn't straighten out, continues in that direction. Repair shop doesn't seem to know how to fix it.
  • 94 Merc Villager.. air conditioning is working, but very feeble. Mechanic checked pressure of freon, said it's up around 30, which should be fine. I have shut down rear seats unit in case it was going back there. Any ideas what to look at?
  • When I set my thermostat to heat at a normal temperature range of 75-85 degrees it will work for several minutes, then goes cool. If I turn it to 90 degrees(max) it heats fine. I have had it checked by an independent garage and a Nissan dealer by computer, to no avail. SUGGESTIONS!!
  • vrmvrm Posts: 303
    Even after my engine has warmed up, I dont get any heat through my front vents.

    My minivan now has 116,000 miles. Two years ago I replaced the timing belt. At that time, I did replace the thermostat along with all the seals + water pump etc.

    Any ideas what I should check or repair? Is this a common problem?

    Thanks!
  • My 94 Villager was putting out no heat and a thermostat did fix it but look at hoses, heater valve and heater for blockages. This is the first place to look. Might have to see if heater switch is actually doing anything.
  • vrmvrm Posts: 303
    A friend asked me to check my coolant level. I was surprised to find that there was NO liquid in the reservoir + low level in the radiator. I added coolant today but even now the air coming from the vents is not "hot" - its lukewarm.

    I noticed another thing which may be an important symptom:
    When I shut the ignition, I hear a sound which can be best described as "water flowing down the pipe". This sound only lasts 6 to 9 seconds but I always hear it after shutting the engine.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
  • May be off base but you may have air in the system. frankly I don't remember how to bleed it out but worth checking out.
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    I agree, it sounds like an air lock. Normally you would remove your radiator cap and, with the engine running, squeeze the hoses as best you can to move the air along in the system. You should see bubbles coming out of your rad. You may get some spill over but don't worry about that. You can top up your rad and reservoir (the engine will draw more from the reservoir as needed when it cools).
  • I have a 99 Quest and I no longer get heat from the vents: I first noticed it took a long time to warm up and never got up to "normal" temp, but it is winter. I changed the thermostat, now I have a new issue. The vehicle heats up fine and runs at a normal temperature however, I get no heat from my vents unless I really am hitting the accelarator. Doing 55 the air is cool, I hit the gas and while the engine is revied, I get great heat. Once I back off the heat dies out. My hanes manual mentions a heat control valve being closed, but I can not find any other reference to such a valve on this vehicle. Any other suggestions?!
  • rarbaughrarbaugh Posts: 1
    I own a Nissan Quest, 2008. It is having A/C problems from my stand point. I have taken it into two dealers 7 times and have gotten the same results. After the second dealership replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve and the first dealership replaced the rear expansion valve, the second dealership told me that my van compares to the other vans on the lot. There is difference of 10 degrees from the temperature of the fresh air button and the re-circulation button. I checked today and at an idle my car showed a temp of 74 degrees for the fresh air button and a temp of 68 degrees for the re-cir button. With normal street driving the temp was 68 to 74 degrees with the fresh air button and 60 to 62 degrees for the re-cir button. The temp outside was 93 degrees. Both dealerships told me that this is the best I can expect for a van that has an under-engineered A/C unit. My question is should this Van perform like this and is it undersized and if not what can I do to get someone to fix it. By the way I have a Nissan X-terra and both instances my A/C there goes to 50 degrees and 48 travelling and 60 and 58 degrees idle.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    rarbaugh: The temperatures seem like they are within acceptable range. The important question is how long does it take to cool down your van? Remember the Quest has a large interior area to cool down. The size of the windows do not help with the cooling. Try running the AC on level 3 or 4 for a while (yeah, I know it is loud). Make sure the rear vents are in the cooling mode.

    My 2004 Quest A/C works fine. It does take longer for it to cool down but again it is a very large area to cool down and the windows let in a lot of heat.
  • melann78melann78 Posts: 2
    This is very similar to the problem we are experiencing with our '04 SL. We have been measuring the temp coming out of the vents, it ranges from 68-72 degrees (those are recirc temps) while driving. Idling it's worse than that. I started writing the temps down because I knew when I brought it in for service I would get the same "it's performing within specs" line. To compare, my husband starting taking the vent temp in his Nissan truck and it was an average of 44 degrees! So I know something is not right. Well, took the van in, they "looked" at it and added a bit of freon, determined it was the front expansion valve. Said they had to order the part. My husband brings it home and now I have no a/c at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will click on for about a min. at a time and then stay off (just normal HOT vent air) for about 5 min. Then back to a/c for another min. and so on. I was sooo frustrated but they of course said they didn't do anything! What I had was better than this. So, now we are a week past that, in 95 degree midwest heat and might as well have zero a/c with 3 kids, ages 6, 4 and 2. It's been great. (heavy sarcasm) and the part is BACKORDERED! I gave up today and found the dang thing online and paid $40 to overnight it so I should get it tomorrow. But yet here they were making me wait!

    Oh and the kicker, the service manual says it's going to take upwards of *8* hours to replace this valve because they have to go through the *dash*, take the whole freaking thing apart and it's going to cost about $800. And it's of course not under warranty. I'm just sick about it but at this point if it will fix it I don't care what it costs. Though I'm concerned after all the work you have had done and you still have problems. :(
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    edited July 2010
    I think this is/will be a common problem with Quest moving forward. I've read of other owners having this same issue as you. What's scary is the 8 hours labor? That is simply ridiculous! $800 to replace a $22 part.
  • Well don't let the dealer do the work! get prices, look for indy shop with lower hourly.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    On another forum, an owner posted directions on how to replace the part and it seemed to work. He did the work himself. I'll post it later tonight. It did not take 8 hours.
  • melann78melann78 Posts: 2
    I meant to come back on here and update and kept forgetting.

    Firstly, we were taking it to an independent mechanic who told us the "service manual" called for 8 hours of labor, thus the ridiculous labor charges. He thought he could maybe get to it from under the hood but he wasn't sure. I would never take it to the dealer, esp the one we have here in town. They are possibly the worst service dept we've dealt with.

    Anyway, my SMART husband decided to take this on himself because we were sick at the thought of spending all that money. His thought was if he couldn't do it we'd take it to the mechanic like we planned.

    Well, he did it! And no, it did not take him 8 hours. More like 1.5. That is to take it out and put it back in. He said it wasn't the most fun thing to do but to save that kind of money it was worth it! We ended up paying $200 for the part and to have the refigerant drained and then put back in.

    But you know, and I'm not complaning because living with no a/c for several days in 100 degree heat with 3 small kids was NO fun, but the air still sucks. I mean, I think it's working the way it "should" but it's still poor.

    The coldest I can get it is 46 (air temp coming straight out of the vent) and that is first thing in the morning after sitting in our a/c garage and on the first fan level. As I turn up the fan, the temp goes up. Just today after sitting in the sun for about an hour at 4 speed it was blowing 65 at it's coldest. And it's right at 100 degrees in the van. It's just not efficient. But I'll deal. Replacing the part did fix it as well as it can be fixed, I think.
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