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Nissan Quest Heating / Cooling Problems

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  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    edited July 2010
    Thanks melanne. Here's the directions from the other forum. Apparrently they work but have not verified the directions. Hopefully they can help someone.

    "I'm back to report on the replacement of my expansion valve. First off, let me say that we had a terrible time getting the part shipped. I ended up getting an aftermarket valve from Autozone. That was Friday at noon. Just today I got a call from the local Nissan dealer saying they had gotten in the part for me, which now I do not need. Anyway, getting the Nissan-brand part was very slow. The one at my local dealer actually came from another dealer several states away. As far as I know, no parts warehouse actually has any of the Nissan-brand valves.

    On to the replacement. I had my shop pull out all the freon in the system. I removed the air cleaner cover and apparatus all the way back to the throttle body. That gave me just enough room to get to the front bolt on the valve that holds the engine-side lines in place. That was pretty easy. I pulled the plate back down the high-side line and secured it with some tape to keep it out of the way.

    Below this plate were two hex-key screws that hold the compartment side lines that go to the evaporator. These screws are definitely only accessible from in the engine compartment. I needed a long extension on my ratchet. I recommend this with hex-key sockets, rather than a traditional Allen wrench or T-handle Allen wrench, because of the torque needed and the lack of room to move one's hands.

    That's all there was too it. I pulled out the old valve. Then, probably stupidly, I also pulled out the large foam grommet that sealed around the valve, and keeps hot air out of the cabin. I wasn't sure if I could get the screws back in to secure the cabin-side of the valve to its plate with the grommet in place. If I were to do it again, I think I would give it a try first. But it was difficult, even without the grommet in place, to line up the Allen head screws with the interior plate. This would be much easier with the dash out, but of course, I saved a ton of time by only going through the engine side.

    After securing the cabin side lines, I moved the engine side lines back into place and put the front plate back in place. It took a bit of effort to get the high side (fat one) back in place. There was not as much play in it, and of course, I didn't want to bend or kink it. Once that was in place the front plate went back on easily.

    I did not replace any o-rings, which were not included with my aftermarket part. I probably should have, but they looked ok. My shop evacuated my system, and it held vacuum well. They refilled the entire system with the correct amount of freon. No leaks, at least so far. It's been three days and my AC is working very well. Pressures were perfect. Out of the vent I'm getting about 48 deg F, at the lowest. Shop says they'd like to see 40, but I'm happy with it.

    I did feel some warm air coming in from engine compartment, so I cut the grommet in half and stuffed it back in place. It wasn't easy, but I did get it back in there. Used a wooden dowel for tucking it in. Like I said above, I probably should have but it back first, but was afraid of getting the screws to line up with the grommet in place. I was in a hurry to get back to my shop before the end of the day on Friday."
  • 2007 Nissan quest w/ 36K miles (has the dual climate control). When turning on the A/C in the front A/C blows cold on the right side but warm/hot air on left. When A/C is turned off and temperature is set to 60deg, cool air is felt on right side and HOT AIR is felt on left side. Rear unit operates normally.
  • Two things, are you sure you put the thermostat in the right direction, the manuals show it with the thermometer pointing away from block. Then are you sure you put the blow open thermostat or a cheep blow closed thermostat. But if you bleed the system, yes bleed the system, yes with the bleeder mounted on top the air intake blower. You have enough antifreeze fluid in the system, you should be all right, yes. Oh, are you sure the heater core is not blocked, with rust and sediment?
  • I am having the same problem. have you found out anything about how to fix it?
  • I'm replacing the starter motor on my 2000 Villager 3.3 V6. I had to remove the air-filter and then could access the starter. Coming out of the bell-housing area, near the starter is what looks like a vacuum line. It comes out of the housing like 4 inches, then turns to a rubber line, then back to a metal line. The metal line has a "J" or hook shape in it. I don't believe there was anything on it, or at least I didn't take anything off it. Is this a vacuum line, maybe an overflow on the tranny? Anyone know?

    Thanks,
    Brent
  • I interrupt this thread to say I lost the 94 Villager and I should make it known how.. These cars (93-95) came out of the factory with a birth defect in the crankshaft forging. They have a small knob at the front of the crankshaft which holds the all-important belts. That's what cracks off. Replacing the crank costs the same as replacing the engine, plus would you end up with another defective 25mm knob? Anyway, Nissan knows NOTHING about this problem. I had 180K on it so I don't feel too bad, except there was a lot of new stuff in it.
    Moral: don't put much money into a Quest/Villager from those years.
  • rockmobilerockmobile Posts: 112
    Where is that "J" hook hanging from, I think I have seen it but right now can not remember.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,189
    edited August 2012
    It's a known issue with the '93s and Nissan issued a TSB about it. They changed the crank size from 25mm to 27mm. Not sure when that change happened, so your '94 may still have the 25. Did you have your timing belt done? The mechanic may have over tightened it.

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  • Thanks Steve. After it happened I looked it up on the web and found pages of sorrowful commentary. When I called Nissan USA the lady (NOT a car guy) blanket-denied any problem. She should have mentioned a TSB. I wanted to know, what other parts would be available to go up to a 27mm crank. I have to believe the "timing belt too tight" story was a phony excuse. At 180 K of course timing belt had been changed a time or two.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,189
    edited August 2012
    I'm at 177k on my '99 Quest and I'm on the original belt. These are non-interference engines so there shouldn't be any damage to the engine if it breaks.

    There could be some body damage if it breaks in heavy traffic, strands you, and you get hit, but I don't have a commute and decided to defer that maintenance.

    Never looked into it, but just assumed all you had to swap out was the crankshaft.

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  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    Seems that the heater cores in these vehicles (99-00 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager) have a control valve located right on the coil. If this fails, you have to remove the whole ventilation plenum which includes the A/C coil. That's right, the A/C has to be discharged to remove the plenum in order to get to the heater core to replace this valve. Not sure of the cost of these valves but for a shop, this would be an expensive repair. :cry:

    Heater Core Valve Replacement

    However, I have also seen this inline valve:

    Heater Valve
    on the back fire wall that runs into the heater core.

    When I felt the hoses, one was hot and the other was luke warm, indicating a lack of flow. It's one or the other and I have not figured out which as of yet.
  • Last year the defroster button (one of the three large buttons/controllers on the dash) became stuck and now the defroster does not work. Also, i have noticed the button used to toggle AC on/off has started sticking as well.
    I have determined if the outside rim on the gauge is turned to the far left, it pops off. Unfortunately this just seems to allow me to see the button I am frustrated with better. There is no obvious way to take the next step and remove the interior portion of the button.
    While the old mechanic side of my brain which grew up working on my Dad's 68 El Camino says, "spray 'er down with WD 40!", my new super subcompact foreign engine brain is saying no.
    Any suggestions and/or brainstorming appreciated.
    2005 Nissan Quest, second owner, purchased from dealership.
    Thank you.
  • I own a 2001 Nissan Quest that WAS only working on HIGH-4 then yesterday it quit working completely. Fuses were good, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor. Now the heat only works on 1,2, and 3 but not very forceful and then shuts off completely at 4. Any suggestions?
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9

    @samfin said: I own a 2001 Nissan Quest that WAS only working on HIGH-4 then yesterday it quit working completely. Fuses were good, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor. Now the heat only works on 1,2, and 3 but not very forceful and then shuts off completely at 4. Any suggestions?

  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9

    late on this but if you haven't fixed it: try changing your cabin air filter. A clogged filter will cause such a problem and will also burn out the motor resistor. Cabin filter is located under the cowl by removing a few screws around/under the wipers on the outside.

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