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Toyota Avalon 2008-2010

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Comments

  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    Well they ordered a axle today, and when it comes in, and they then take it apart, they will see if thats the problem.

    They said everything pointed to the axle, but if they take apart I would be without the car for a few days? They didn't have a car they could let me use for a few days???

    Now if that isn't the problem when the part comes in, the will have to provide me with a loaner, as my car will be torn down.

    They said the part should be here next Tuesday, and unless something happens before then, I have an appointment to drop if off next Friday afternoon.

    I'll let folks know the out come.

    So based on the above comments, this may be a temporary fix? Replacing the part, but not fixing the issue surely isn't the way to FIX the problem … or is it?

    Skip
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    Skip,

    It is very possible the noise you hear coming from the front left corner of your vehicle is that of the brake actuator motors for the ABS, traction control and VSC systems, which are controlled by solenoid valves. The valve themselves are a little bit noisy, with the motors being the noisiest. This operation is required in order to monitor the integrity (safe/fail) of the above systems. I do hear a subtle grinding noise coming from the front left side of my car, but I’m confident there’s nothing wrong with it.

    Now about your transmission:
    The anchor-dragging effect you feel when you release the gas pedal is normal. Upon releasing the gas pedal your automatic transmission downshifts in order to slow down the car. The Avalon transmission has high gear ratios on the low gears, specially the first gear (3.30:1). In other words this means, the higher the gear ratio the stronger the “engine-braking” force will be. It is that force you feel that is effectively slowing down your car dramatically, which is primarily due to the high gear ratios on the reduction gears. If you are very familiar with all these concepts I can give you more in-depth details of how the Avalon’s tranny works. I also have the same experience with my transmission, but I’m confident there’s nothing wrong with it.

    Another point you should know is, when the engine coolant and transmission fluid temperature is cold your tranny will cycle between first, second and third gear only; the colder the temperature the longer the tranny will remain in this state. This restriction makes the tranny behaves a bit "abnormal"; however, when the vehicle reaches operating temperature (gauge temperature needle in you dash is half-way) your tranny will cycle through any gear depending on your speed only.

    Amaury
    '08 Limited
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...The anchor-dragging effect...when you release the gas pedal is normal...."

    NOT, NO, NEVER...!!!

    There are NO automatic transmissions and absolutely NO FWD or F/awd modern day vehicle that will automatically downshift when the driver releases the gas pedal. For FWD or F/awd that would be 'way too dangerous. Almost all transaxles will actually upshift in this circumstance.

    On the other hand if you should apply the brakes even ever so lighty you might encounter this "anchor-dragging" effect.

    On the "third" hand, if the gas pedal is released QUICKLY while the transaxle is still in a low gear (1st..??) the ECU will assume the intent is to slow the vehicle using engine compression braking and remain in the lower gear.

    But an actual downshift, not..!!

    Unless you then apply the brakes, maybe.
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    Now that you have taken an "all knowing" position on the deceleration issue, I suggest that you drive an Avalon (and maybe other Toyota vehicles) and experience first hand the transmission downshift that helps deceleration on downhills, etc., prior to any actual braking.

    My 07 Avalon was the first vehicle I have owned that utilized this feature, and it seems to work rather well. The braking effect is more noticeable at lower speeds.
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    Thank you for the insight. I believe, and so does the dealer, that the 'Grinding noise" is a bit LOUD and not normal. It's loud enough that folks standing around will say something or point to my car as I drive by. It only started to happen recently, and I'm comfortable it's not normal. I never had it on my 2007 Camry or my wife''s 2003 Camry, or any other toyota / car we've owned. If it is normal, I would give some consideration to trading the car, as it sounds like the front end is going to fall off, or at best seize up or something.

    As for the anchor dragging effect … I don't like it. I better understand it now, but I don't like it. I would think the car would get much better MPG if it didn't do this, and I never heard anyone say, they wish their car did it, and if it had, they would not have had that accident. But I know living in an area with tons of hills / mountains, I would much prefer if it disengaged when I let up, so that I could go to the road and take advantage of coasting.

    Skip
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    As to the automatic transmission, post #515 is 99.9% correct. Under normal conditions, when the accelerator is released, automatic transmissons will go to a higher gear or remain in the same gear, depending on speed. To downshift to a lower gear would be at least unpleasant and possibly dangerous in some cases, such as low traction situations. Also, as #515 points out, low vehicle speed and/or brake application may alter the normal shift pattern and produce different results.

    That said, my '07 Limited does, on occasion, at certain speeds, while slowing under certain conditions, actually go to 4th gear from 5th for no reason. On rare occasion it has even gone from 4th to 3rd for no apparent reason. If anyone else observes this illogical behavior, you are not alone. :confuse:

    And, never allow an AT car to disengage or "coast" in neutral. There are multiple risks in this, not the least of which is lack of vehicle control. There is no direct clutch as in a manual shift to connect the engine to the road and help control the car. Allow the top gear to work and drive "connected".

    Enjoy the Avalon..... great car.. !
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    '...And, never allow an AT car to disengage or "coast" in neutral.."

    IMMHO this is yet another "urban legend", or more correctly stated, an "old wives tale".

    Many, many years ago the gearbox, non-synchro gearbox, was considered to be a key part of the braking system. Back in those days finding yourself "out of gear" and gaining speed downhill could be a heart in throat event, if not worse.

    Many states still have these laws on the books obsolete as they may be.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    It is now obvious to me that the dragging effect on the Avalon has nothing to do with downshifting. Funny, but I have the indication in front of me all this time (in the dash) but I overlooked it. Thank you wwest for making me dig deeper.

    However, wwest, if I’m traveling at 30 mph, and contrary to your suggestion, the Avalon transaxle will NOT upshift upon releasing the gas pedal; low speed restriction won’t allow engagement past the 3rd gear. Since it can’t go up or down the obvious conclusion is that it remains where it is in terms of gear.

    The abrupt deceleration the Avalon experiences when the gas pedal is released could be the result of the mechanical decoupling between torque converter and transmission. Engagement between the two still continues by means of fluid coupling. The ability of the Avalon to disengage the lock-up clutch upon releasing the gas pedal is a feature not found in every modern car; my daughter’s ’03 Camry I4 does not have it and certainly my previous Camry ’04 V6 didn’t have it either.

    No matter what, there’s no question in my mind that the dragging effect is part of the normal operation of the Avalon, and as far as I’m concerned its mile-per-gallon is very close to that of my daughter’s Camry (in both city and highway) and much better than my old Camry ’04 V6.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I've most likely overstated.

    Its not that these transaxles will not downshift during a "full throttle lift" coastdown, just that they will not downshift to a ratio wherein a significant level of engine compression braking will be felt/incurred.

    In reality in this situation an upshift is much more likely and it is those inadvertent upshifts that Toyota and Lexus are having the most trouble with(***). Not the upshift itself, mind you, but the need, often randomly ocurring need, for a quick return to acceleration. An acceleration that requires a downshift but now with the engine already at idle (little/no ATF pumping capacity) and that previous "inadvertent" upshift just having EXHAUSTED all of the ATF line pressure.

    And be aware that while the transaxle will not "downshift" during a full lift throttle coastdown, even the slightest touch of theh gas pedal will often result in a downshift into the most appropriate gear range for your current road speed.

    Now...the lock up clutch.

    Almost all, if not all, automatic transaxles will release the lock up clutch the INSTANT you apply any level of braking as otherwise the "solid" engine/gearbox coupling might result in stalling the engine.

    And.. you are right but for the wrong reasons.

    The "feeling" you have is much more likely due to the lock-up clutch being engaged, resulting in a "solid" coupling rather than the "soft" one with the torque converter in the drive path.

    If you have carpet mats be sure they are well secured and cannot slide forward over time. There are instances of un-intended acceleration due to the mat sliding forward and getting trapped behind the brake pedal but lying over the top of the gas pedal. Apply the brakes severely and the mat forces the gas pedal down.

    In your situation that might even be the reason your car is downshifting inadvertently. Move your foot to the "wrong" place on that carpet mat and the gas pedal gets "nudged" slightly down and the transaxle downshifts accordingly.

    *** I first noticed this anomally in my 2000 AWD RX300. As I slowed or braked ligthly to come to a stop at about/below 10MPH the RX would feel as if someone had bumped me slightly from behind. And in slowing, braking lightly or not, coastdown, from 40-30 MPH the RX would get a slingshot feeling, a feeling of "surging" forward as if I had let up on the brakes.

    This was all the result of a transaxle design modification Toyota made late in the last century which resulted in a flaw for which they have yet to come up with a satisfactory fix.

    With the engine at idle the ATF line pressure cannot be sustained to/at a level to keep the clutches tightly enough engaged to support even the slightest level of
    torque for engine compression braking so that issue is eliminated by simply upshift the transaxle.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    "Almost all, if not all, automatic transaxles will release the lock up clutch the INSTANT you apply any level of braking as otherwise the "solid" engine/gearbox coupling might result in stalling the engine.

    And.. you are right but for the wrong reasons."


    Don’t go so fast my friend.

    I’m talking about a specific design, that of the U660E transaxle found in my car You are, however, talking in general, which it may or may not apply to that transaxle.

    Here’s a fact about the 3rd generation Avalon transmission that you are not aware of:

    1. The torque converter clutch lock-up mechanism is engaged in all gears regardless of vehicle speed as long as:
    Engine coolant temperature is equal to or greater than 140° F (otherwise, it won’t engage)
    You don’t step on the brake pedal (otherwise, it will disengage)
    You don’t release the gas pedal. (otherwise, it will disengage)

    Here’s another fact you are not aware of about the U241E transaxle found in my daughter’s 2003 Camry I4 and the U140E found in my old 2004 Camry V6.

    2. The lockup torque converter mechanism is not engaged in all gears. Requisites for engagement:
    Engine coolant temperature is equal to or greater than 122° F (I4) and 131° (V6)
    You don’t step on the brake (there’s no mention about gas pedal)

    Whoever has owned the Camrys above know for fact these cars’ tremendous ability for coasting. Can I relate this with the metal-to-metal coupling between torque converter and transmission? I have plenty of privileged information to find the answer. I just need the time.

    Facts 1 & 2 are neither my imagination nor my invention. Rather, they’re Toyota’s.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
    ps: thx for the carpet mat thing. It was a very good piece of advice.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Actually I went to techinfo.toyota.com and researched the issue before replying.

    Your statements verify mine...

    The lockup clutch will remain engaged provided:

    "..you don't step on the brake pedal.."

    And I'm quite sure the lockup clutch remains disabled in the lower gear ratios wherein the converter's torque multiplication aspect is more often required than not. There is also the case that were it actually locked up, say in 1st or 2nd gear, you might stall the engine with a quick release of the gas pedal.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    When I said I have privileged information I wasn’t talking about 8 ½ “ x 11” hardcopies but 22” x 34” (ANSI D) printouts as well.
    The tranny is delicately complex: way too many hydraulic circuits, sensors and actuators. But I’ll see if I can find a common denominator here regarding the dragging issue

    This stuff certainly defies just about anyone’s common sense.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..find a common denominator..."

    These days that would be the source code for the engine/transaxle controlling ECU/microprocess(s). And I don't think either of us will have access to that.

    The best, and maybe the only, close alternative will be the manufacturer's disclosed information about the dynamic operation, shift pattern, etc.

    The new RX/Venza F/awd system's electrical schematic, as a "for instance" includes the OAT (Outside Air Temperature) as an input. That could/might mean the outside temperature is being taken into consideration to determine when to engage, or how hard to engage, the rear drive clutch. Or it could mean the new F/awd system is subject to overheating(***) and the system operates accordingly.

    *** The Ford Escape was an early adopter of this "new" F/awd system and actually had an instrument panel warning to indicate that the F/awd system was overheating (rear clutch pack was implied) requiring the driver to pull over long enough for the system to cool. The Mazda CX-7 uses this same system and has added water cooling for the PTO (Power Take Off) to prevent it from overheating.

    My point is that it often requires many resources, sometimes somewhat obtuse resources, in order to try to figure out how these microprocessor controlled systems operate.
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    I just got gas for my '08 Avalon; it had 16 miles to go and the low fuel indicator was on. I was only able to squeeze in 16.005 gallons and I really tried hard. Why is it with all the electronic gadgets and things there can't be an accurate gas gauge?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Probably liquid heat/cool expansion/contraction more than anything else.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    wwest,

    "And I don't think either of us will have access to that".
    Sitting on my desk are blueprints of stuff that ranges in the million of dollars (electromechanical, hydraulics, logic controller diagrams; you name it); would you like to take a peak? Cars’ blueprints are proprietary information only NOT top secret information. Not available in Google of course, but obtainable nevertheless. In this arena, I have the advantage mi amigo.

    "And I'm quite sure the lockup clutch remains disabled in the lower gear ratios wherein the converter's torque multiplication aspect is more often required than not. There is also the case that were it actually locked up, say in 1st or 2nd gear, you might stall the engine with a quick release of the gas pedal." Looking at this stuff, it’s clear to me that the automatic transmission has its own set of clutches; so even if it is engaged to the torque converter clutch (lockup), provisions can be set in place to engage/disengaged whatever set of planetary/sun gears depending on unique trait designs. The fact is, with such design characteristics logics can be implemented to have the transaxle downshifts even when YOU let go of the gas pedal in whatever gear wheather you're on flat or going downhill (have you ever heard about automatic engine braking when going on a downward slope as the tach needle shoots sky high?). This is all against your perception of how tranny works.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, I've just never seen or heard of computer source code in "blueprint" form, nor being referred to in that manner.

    "..The fact is..."

    Yes the whole idea of computer firmware control of the electric solenoids which in turn control the various clutches via porting hydraulic pressure is to have total control and viability of the transaxle.

    But just as you would NEVER declutch a stick shift in a low enough gear ratio that would result in a high level of engine compression braking absent being sure, certain sure, of the roadbed traction coefficient these transaxle should never also.

    No blueprints, source code, just common everyday horse sense.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..(have you ever heard about automatic engine braking when going on a downward slope as the tach needle shoots sky high?)..."

    No, and I'm quite sure you haven't either. Modern computer controlled transaxles (assume FWD) will only downshift in the above circumstance provided there are first "armed" via the driver applying some level of actual braking, even light braking. "sky high" is a pretty subjective term and so it is not one I would use in describing the level of engine RPM rise that would be likely to occur with an "automatic"(no shifter or paddle movement) FWD downshift. "Automatic" FWD downshifts, even RWD downshifts, dare not be that dramatic in the described circumstance, automatic downhill engine braking.

    A driver induced, shifter movement, downshift, maybe, but NEVER an automatic one.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    Sorry. The term blueprint is commonly used among those shuffling designs printed in any large form of paper (usually larger than 11” x 17”); not necessarily the typical white lines in blue background. But all this information is in CAD; not AutoCAD but Bentley’s Microstation along with I-DEAS (if you know what that is). That’s the only reason I extended you the invitation to take a peek; since these drawings along with schedules are already digitized. I can even change the design at will to show you I have full rights to edit these files.

    …design files from companies you know; all rightfully obtained.

    And the invitation remains open.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I pass...

    73's
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    Ok, so far so good. No noise. The real test will be when it gets cold (anytime in Maine). The left does it still, but they only replaced the right drive axle.

    They said it appeared something "Funkie" was going on, but that they couldn't tell what, because they can only replace the whol thing and they can't take apart, because they have to return it to Toyota just as they replaced it.

    It's not suppose to be to cold this weekend, so I may not know if it fixed the problem or not.

    $577.00 to fix under warranty. I point this point so folks will know what they might be in for AFTER the warranty has expired. Almost $1200.00 for both sides, if needed. That would suck. Hell, I would consider trading for a new car at that point, but that's just me - any excuse to have a new car

    Here's hoping.

    Skip
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    Here in New England, I'm getting MUCH worst results.

    I'm getting between 280 and 360 miles to a full tank of gas. That means, I fill up - To the top!, and fill up again, after the fuel light has come on, and that's what I'm averaging.

    It gets a bit better on the highway - 435 is the best I've got on a tank of gas so far.

    I'm averaging 16.5 gallons to each fill up or about 26 MPG at the best, and between 17 and 22 on average.

    The dash says everything from 10.3 MPG to 28.7 MPG. Not what I was hoping for, but it is what it is.

    I will be taking a long trip coming up here in a few weeks, so I'll get a better handle on highway mileage then. The trip will have me driving to South Carolina via I95, so it won't be stop and go traffic. I do have a heavy foot, so my mileage will be based on 5 - 15 OVER the posted speed limits during the trip.

    The car, a 2008 Avalon Touring model, will have had it's first oil change just weeks before the trip. The car has 3700 miles on it now, and likely around 4,000 by the time I head out.

    I love the car, just not the gas mileage. And this from someone who's NEW Avalon has been in the shop several times for issues.

    The left front drive axle was replaced yesterday. The VSH sensor had to be replace, the spoiler is lose and the right side axle may need to be replaced, not to mention the car doesn't have a coin tray (a side joke folks). Damn, I might be talking myself into buying a (better / different) new car, maybe a Mercedes, Genesis, G35 Infinity, Lexus E350???

    Skip
  • jpm1908jpm1908 Member Posts: 17
    I typically reach 260 miles when the range shows zero miles. I average barely 17 miles per gallon. The mileage was better when I first got the car..The car has been very reliable, though. The only issues are a gimpy power jack that needs to be fixed and this weird popping sound I get where the windshield meets the dashboard when the weather is very cold.

    Jamie
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    I'm very surprised at the mpgs you two are getting. I live in Western Arkansas so I don't do "city driving" but my local mpg is 24 to 25 and my trip mpg, depending upon mountains, is 28 to 30 at 75 and 80 mph. My '08 Avalon is one year old this month and has 18,000 miles on it. I've gotten as high as 34 mpg in flat country. My lowest mpg was 22.4 and that was driving around Salt Lake City for the whole tank of gas.

    The original post on this subject had to do with only being able to get 16 gallons of gas into the tank when the "low fuel indicator" was on.
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    I'm a bit surprised as well. Maybe even more disappointed then surprised.

    I guess more rthen anything - it bounces all over the place, 245 Miles to the tank, 320 miles to the tank, 278 miles to the tank, 435 miles to the tank. As I mentioned before, I always wait until the fuel light has come on, and even then I'll drive another 20 40 miles before putting any gas in. I do this so I can always try and get about the same gallons in the tank each time. I'd say I get between 15.8 and 16.9 gallons in the tank at each fill up.

    There has been one road trip where I got only 15 gallons in the tank, and it said I had gone 453 miles so far. That was a good day.

    Again, I'll be heading out in a few weeks and should get a pretty good idea as to my MPG then.

    Now here's hoping it's not to cold, or stormy, as that will change the MPG a fair amount.

    Skip
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    I'd be interested in the mileage you get on your trip.

    At the end of March my wife and I have to go on a trip east of the Mississippi and cover about 3,500 to 4,000 miles. We haven't been in that direction with the Avalon yet so I will be interested in the mpgs. I don't really like driving in that part of the country with all the traffic, etc. Once you get east of Memphis it's a different world. I like the west where you can have hundreds of miles of flat nothing.
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    I'll have to try and and remember to post the results before you leave.

    My trip is from March 11th - 16th. I should put on around 2,500 miles, 980 each way, via the highway, and the balance driving around the area I'm visiting.

    Skip
  • fmflfmfl Member Posts: 16
    This is an interesting situation ... also scared heck out of me. This morning at 4:00 a.m. I took my wife to the airport. I arrived back in my area about 6:30 a.m. ... low beams on, running lights on, radio on, navigation on, cruise control on but not being used. It was foggy and I missed my intersection by about 100 feet, so I stopped, put the Avalon in reverse and zipped backward. I got within 20 feet of the intersection, starting to touch the brakes lightly, and all my electrical systems died ... lights off, engine stopped ... pushed everything and the car stayed dead. Meanwhile on this dark street cars were stopping a couple of feet behind me, and I was getting more nervous. Finally the car started and has been running properly since. I took it to the service man at the local Toyota dealership. He didn't have a clue about what could have happened. He offered to take the Avalon into the shop and look it over, but we both understood he didn't expect to find anything, so I came home. It was like the car had a circuit breaker that popped and then reset itself ... took a couple of minutes. I have never had a car's electrical system turn off everything in the middle of a street. I'm posting this note in case I'm not the only guy in the world with a strange Avalon elecrical system.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    Hi,

    Just curious but, is the one-touch opening/closing for your front power windows and moonroof working? When power was restored, did you notice if you briefly get a MIL on the dash?

    thx.

    Amaury
    ’08 Limited
  • targetmojo10targetmojo10 Member Posts: 8
    Interesting indeed. I had nearly the exact same experience about 10 days ago. I was traveling down a highway road and missed a turn. As I was turning around (in the middle of the higway) the car totally died. It took a few minutes to come back to life. My assumption was that I shifted too quickly from drive into reverse, causing the engine to die. I am curious to learn more.

    BTW, the vehicle is an 08 Avalon LTD with about 9,800 miles.
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    Had my 07 Avalon on an inclined driveway recently. The car was in drive, but I wanted to look at something so I just took my foot off the gas and let the car creep backwards 6'-8' feet. At that point the engine just died and the car sorta lurched to a stop. It took me a few seconds to figure out what had happened. After putting the trans in park, I restarted the vehicle, but it was a little reluctant to fire up immediately.
  • fmflfmfl Member Posts: 16
    Yes, the windows and moonroof work O.K. I was too busy pushing buttons and levers to look at the instrument panel, except to note that it wasn't doing anything.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    Thanks again for the info.

    Amaury
    '08 Limited
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    I clean my windshield every day that I drive the car and use "Invisible Glass", however, I'm not happy with the results. No matter how much I clean (inside and out) you can still see, if the sun is at the right angle, a haze and streaks.

    Has anyone got a magic formula for clean windows?
  • dfurnierdfurnier Member Posts: 26
    A method I like is to use window cleaner to get them mostly clean, then use 0000 steel wool (completely dry) to get all the streaks out. Only drawback is sometimes you have to vacuum debris from the steel wool.
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    Well, I'm called upon by friends and family members to clean windows in general all the time:)

    I spray the windows down with Castle Streak Proof, glass cleaner, and then after it sits for a short time, I wipe quickly with good brand paper towel. If the windows are real bad, I go over them afterwards with hot water and a mild mix of Lestoil, and then do the Streak Proof cleaning again. I've only had to do the second step on cars with people who smoke, but after both steps, the windows are very CLEAN.

    Now part of the secret is letting the cleaning sit long enough, and the other part is wiping dry using fast movements.

    It works for me.

    Skip
  • nceencee Member Posts: 419
    at 89, it's the highest rated Large Sedan. A nice score, and justified, for the most part.

    It came in at #8 in the over-all score category. Still a nice placement when you look at what came ahead, were not all the same style car one would be looking at.


    1) Lexus LS - Luxury Sedan
    2) Infiniti M M35 X V6 - Luxury Sedan
    3) Infiniti M M35 V6 - Luxury Sedan
    4) Infiniti G - Upscale Sedan
    5) Hyundai Genesis - Upscale Sedan
    6) Lexus ES - Upscale Sedan
    7) Mercedes-Benz E-Class sedan E320 BLUETEC V6 - Luxury Sedan
    8) Toyota Avalon - Large Sedan

    and the next Large Sedan came in at:

    26) Hyundai Azera, with a score of 83

    Skip
  • pasqvincpasqvinc Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2008 Avalon XLS w/o navigation. Can anyone explain why every time I fill up the gas tank the MPG display drops down to 10 mpg. Then it takes about 5 to 10 miles of driving to go back up to the normal 25 to 26 mpg (local driving). Is the accuracy of this readout any good? I fill up the tank and it shows a 363 mile range and I'm getting 25 to 26 mpg driving around town. A conservative estimate should read at least 400 miles on a full tank (16 gal X 25 mpg).
  • neil5neil5 Member Posts: 118
    I have a 2006 avalon LTD and have had no problems with the car. I have BU camera and tinted and love the milage/power and comfort. The years of my having this car I recommend:

    Regular gas
    BU camera aftermarket for this big car
    Blue tooth system
    BMW gummypledge (for seals)
    Heavy mudguards for the carpet

    Battery for FOB (radioshack) use inner key to open
    wipers online since they have sensors (expensive)

    Pics at toyota nation galleries
  • doug3030doug3030 Member Posts: 20
    Best way to find out your mileage is the old fashioned "Fill 'er up to the cap, drive it and fill 'er up again, seeing how many miles you've driven. Computers are great but after awhile I gave up trusting the message board. My 2008 Limited is #1 in my book but give me a pencil and paper to figure the mileage.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Actually, you don't want to "fill it to the cap". This was ok decades ago but it is a very expensive mistake today. Here's why: Modern emission controls siphon off fuel vapor from the gas tank. If any liquid gets in the line designed for vapor it can ruin parts of the emission control system. Big bucks here... :cry:

    Fill the tank only until the auto cutoff shuts down the pump. It is probably safe to pump more but only until the cutoff occurs again. Never more. Make sure you are on level ground and always use the same pump. This will give you the best chance to get accurate fuel mileage locally. On trips, same thing, but pumps are different so take several readings.

    Fuel mileage indicators, such as on my '07 Limited w/Nav, are not accurate and the old fashioned way works better, your right. And the DTE (distance to empty) is nonsense by concept. Enjoy the Avy, great cars. :)
  • fmflfmfl Member Posts: 16
    I did a double-take when I read "BMW GummyPledge" ... asking myself what in the heck is that. I googled it and found out it is a protectant sold at BMW places, and that it is probably pretty expensive. Neil5 is on the ball. However, I asked myself what cheapskates use, so I googled Advance Auto and found out they sell something called Jig-A-Loo (which is currently on sale, 2 cans for $8). I also found out the stuff is sold all over the place, e.g., Home Depot, True Value, etc. There is even a Metacafe Advertisement, that will probably go down as the worst ad ever made ... http://www.metacafe.com/watch/597780/jig_a_loo_funny_ad/ . This is a silicone based spray that can be used on everything I guess. Thanks for the education Neil5.
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    We talked back in February about the mpg with the Avalon. I just came back from the trip to the East as I mentioned and got the following results. Driving was on Interstates plus NYC and upstate NY and MA including trips to the store, pool hall, etc. On the interstates my gas stops are determined by my wife's pit-stop requirements so sometimes I need the gas and sometimes I don't but if I'm close to a half or lower I get gas.

    The overall MPG was 28.74 (3,120.5 miles using 108.583 gallons). The individual mpgs were: 29.8, 27.7, 31.1, 28.1, 26.8, 31.1, 24.7, 26.4, 30.6, and 30.0

    Ted
  • jpm1908jpm1908 Member Posts: 17
    Ted - That is darn good mileage. The highway mileage has never been a concern for me. The exclusive "around town" driving was yielding btw 16 and 18. A month or so ago,I increased the inflation of my tires to 40 psi and I there is a noticeable improvement.

    I switched to synthetic oil at the last servicing and the longer interval btw oil changes is agreeable.

    Regards-Jamie
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    ".....40 psi.."

    Yes, that will make ABS activation a LOT quicker....!!

    With less tread for road contact the brake pads will be a LOT more effective.
  • tfeltontfelton Member Posts: 80
    Except when I'm on a trip I don't do "city" driving although we do have traffic in town. It's not like anything you're in. My average around home is 24 to 26 mpg. I think city drivers ought to calculate in "gallons per hour".

    The use of synthetic oil is the way to go. I've been using it since 1987. Right now I use Mobil 1 but use the Extended Performance since it doesn't cost too much more than the regular and you can go on a long trip without worrying about changing oil in the middle of it.

    As far as tire pressure goes I put in 34 psi.

    Ted
  • mlinggamlingga Member Posts: 60
    I have the 2008 Limited with the autolevelling headlights. To my eye, the "throw" on the headlights is incredibly short--on low, it feels like I am overdriving the headlights even at 20 mph. On high, the headlights seem to be what I'm used to seeing with other cars on low.

    To try and quantify this, I crudely measured how many feet in front of the car the beam cut off on low. It was about 30-35 feet. The only other vehicle I have to compare to is our Suburban--admittedly not a great comparator, as a much taller vehicle--but the throw on low was about double the Av--around 60 feet.

    My question: do I have defective headlight leveling, or is this just a design flaw in the Av? Does anyone else notice this, or is there someone obsessive enough to measure the throw on their Limited headlights? I'd love to have some data before going to the dealer and getting the "no, that's the way they all are" line.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Possible the leveling mechanism is defective but more than likely it's fine. The problem is that the newer Avalons, and many other cars, have headlights that illuminate more to the sides and less to the front. Why? Ask the designers. They say it works better for all drivers. I disagree because I like distance penetration on suburban roads and interstates where I drive most of the time, but...

    The lights also have a very distinct "horizontal cutoff". Notice on a dark road that everything below a horizontal line out in front of the car is illuminated but there is hardly any illumination above the line. This is hard for some people, including me, to adjust to. But it works, you hit things on the road or that enter the road, not in the air above the car.

    Others may have more ideas, hope this helps....
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    With the advent of more common use of HID headlights, "tight" beam focussing projector lense, and even in some cases "extra" bright halogen bulbs, the requirement to "shade" your headlights against interferring with an oncoming driver's vision is raised.

    So if you have HID headlamps, or even halogen headlamps with projectors lense, then there is a "requirement" for more upper beam cutoff, SHARP upper beam cutoff, than in yesteryear.
  • mlinggamlingga Member Posts: 60
    What both of you point out makes sense, and it's certainly true that the cutoff on my Av is very sharp. Still, I find that the amount of pavement illuminated is so short that it's truly dangerous to drive on an unlighted road at anything approaching the speed limit. I can certainly say that the Av on high beam is no brighter to oncoming traffic than the Suburban on low.

    If anyone with a Limited has absolutely nothing to do some evening, I'd love to hear how many feet their headlights illuminate to see if it's just Avalon headlights or my vehicle in particular. Thanks!
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