Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

VW Golf Engine Problems

2»

Comments

  • hardridincwbyhardridincwby Member Posts: 12
    Have you checked all relays ?
    They have some werid circuits. Mine calmed down after changing the relays. Changed too many at one time to tell you the specific one.
    Best of luck
  • AbidfAbidf Member Posts: 1
    Took my 03 Golf in today to figure out why the engine light came on and they told me that some codes came up but they don't know what they mean...
    Any ideas what these codes may mean?

    P2181/18613
    P1326 CYL 2
  • zeemk2zeemk2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All, I have a 1990 Golf gti that im having problem with. about a week 1/2 ago my car started to misfire and have black smoke when I press on gas. & will only go 10m/h.( no power at all ) I've changed spark plug wires, spark plug, ignition coil, rotor & distributor cap. I even changed the two sensor connected to the hose fr. radiator to engine. ( i think its fan & temp switch ) funny thing is when I disconnected the 2 sensors car will run. NO misfired, NO black smoke & has power. but the idle is really low. car died in every stop. I don't know what else to check. this car is been good to me ever since I bought it fr. a friend 4yrs ago. sometimes i'll have problem w/ it. but never sits in the garage for more than a day. it get fixed... but now car is parked in the garage for about 2 weeks now & have NO clue what was wrong w/ it!!!

    Pls. if anyone had this problem from the past I need your advise desperately.

    thx in advanced
    zee :cry:
  • amcvwamcvw Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Golf w/123k miles. In Nov 08 I had the catalytic converter replaced. Last week had the cam positioning sensor replaced. Now check engine light is back and says the converter is bad. Symptoms when it broke down last week: check engine light came on and after about 40 min on highway the car had trouble accelerating. It chugged once and the EPC light came on and off that quick. It finanally died and I had it towed to a local mechanic who first checked the converter and said it's like new. Then the computer showed a bad cam sensor but he also said it could be a bad engine. I had it towed to VW and they replaced the sensor. The next morning the check engine light was back on and I took it right to VW - the computer says the converter is bad. My mechanic stands by the converter and said it's fine. What other underlying problems might there be to cause this? Did the bad sensor cause something else to go bad?
  • xanchadadxanchadad Member Posts: 1
    I have had a problem with my 94 Golf, pulling away from stoplight my car wants to hesitate, it will do it one in a while but them be fine. but as of late it has gotten worse, yesterday i could barely get the car home about 2 miles. i have no idea where to begin to look. i need help i have to drive it back to Philly tomorrow in an in DC. :mad: :confuse: :cry:
  • danielrose1986danielrose1986 Member Posts: 1
    My golf gti has a idolizing problem, which is making it rev up and down on its own, can anyone please help as it is doing my head, if not i will look to sell it if i cant it sorted,

    thanks
  • cmcgarrycmcgarry Member Posts: 1
    hi im just woundering if anyone could help me i have a 58 plate mk 5 fsi golf and i have been experiencing problems with noises from the engine for ages now and the manufacturer says theres nothing wrong with it now ive taken it back and they are now telling me i need a new engine! im just woundering if anyone else has had this problem as its not even a year old yet and im having to have a new engine fitted!
  • bortlebortle Member Posts: 2
    I had my sons 2 liter motor replaced(used motor 60 miles on it) The motor ran great and then it spit out the harmonic balancer. I had the car repaired which included vlaves in the head, timing belts,serpantene belt and the removal of the broken bolt that holds on the harmanic balancer pully, and replaced spark plug.The car runs great! I get a call from my some he states(I parked the car its smell like rubber burning) I go the car check it out oils full ,coolants full. I fire it up and its sqeulls I look down and the air conditioner is on so I turn it off. the sqeull stops. I drive the car home it runs great.one week later the I get a call from my son(somethings wrong with my car). I go look at it and the harmanic balancer is on the ground!!!!!!wow any ideas(all the work done untill this time was done by professional people)
    Don
  • bortlebortle Member Posts: 2
    you may be 180 degrees off with your timing or you might have swicthed plug wires just a couple Ideas.Did you pull your distibutor?
  • micklemickle Member Posts: 1
    hi, this morning i had to put the jump leads on my golf tdi,the glow plug light has been flashing ever since,the vw main dealer says that it is the engine management and wants to charge me £75 to put it on a diagnostic machine.can anyone give me an idea as to what the problem may be.
  • lemony34lemony34 Member Posts: 1
    Hey all,

    I'm wondering if it is easy to replace the crank sensor in my 2001 golf diesel? And I also don't know how long I can run without doing so?

    Thanks in advance!
  • laauroralaaurora Member Posts: 3
    I seem to be having a problem with my golf. Everytime I drive it, it cuts out. I mean it jurks, spits & sputters constantly. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be causing the problem and how I can fix the problem. :sick:
  • str8str8 Member Posts: 1
    Laaurora, did u ever get a response to your post ?
    cause i have a 95 golf, and it does the same thing, cuts out, chugs and jurks... :cry:
  • laauroralaaurora Member Posts: 3
    No, I never received a response to my post. I have figured out that it has something to do with the fuel supply. I started messing with ours with taking off hoses & such. After doing that I put all the hoses back on & it's not doing it anymore so I figured that was the problem. Still not sure if it might be something else also though. All I can say is it's worth a try right. Good Luck!
  • laauroralaaurora Member Posts: 3
    I orginally posted a problem I was having with my golf on 10/31/09. It was having problems with cutting out, spitting & sputtering. Well it turns out that it was a fuel problem. I had an old hose that was leaking & fuel filter replaced today. It seems to have fixed the problems that I was having. Although I will give it a few days to see if it really is fixed or if I need to see if the fuel pump needs to replaced also. So, all you golf owners that are having similar problems start checking your hoses, filter, etc. But don't loose hope. If there is a way for it to fixed you can fix it yourself or have it fixed. Good Luck To You All.
  • monopolyguymonopolyguy Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone,
    I have a 1997 VW Golf with a 2.0L 4 cylinder. It has 133,xxx miles on it and runs pretty good. I'd like to upgrade the engine a bit but don't even know where to start looking. I was thinking of new pistons and rods, a new manifold and even a cheap turbo if I can afford it.
    My problem is that I have very little mechanical experience. I know how to do oil and my front brakes, that's about it. Although I have a few good friends who own a shop and would be more than willing to help me out.

    Basically what I'm asking is for someone to give me advice on where to get the parts, what I should get, and any tips or things like that.
  • jmalcolmjmalcolm Member Posts: 1
    my 2002 vw golf 2.0 is overheating. turning on the heater produces NO hot air when this happens. coolant/ water level not going down noticeably. engine fan takes a while to kick on , but even when it does, the engine doesn't cool.

    Where do we find the thermostat??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    From your description, it sounds like the WATERPUMP is not pumping the antifreeze like is should.

    A misbehaving thermostat would NOT affect the heater because the heater-circuit plumbing does not pass thru the thermostat.

    To more specificly answer your question, the thermostat is mounted on the waterpump where the lower radiator hose connectes to the engine.

    QUESTION FOR YOU: When you had the timing-belt replaced, did you also have the waterpump and thermostat replaced? Did they use a BRASS impeller waterpump?... or the cheap plastic one?
  • marshall1646marshall1646 Member Posts: 2
    it may be your coils, or at least 1. i have a 2001 golf 1.8t and it was backfiring as well as irregular idle. i replaced my coils and spark plugs and no problem anymore.
  • marshall1646marshall1646 Member Posts: 2
    when idling i can smell exhaust. but when i am moving there is no irregular smell.also at times the rpms will jump randomly from about 9000 to 1500. i have a 2001 golf 1.8t. any ideas?
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    Like to know ty
  • selemagdeselemagde Member Posts: 1
    hi i want to know who is the best golf4 engine 1.4, 1.6, or 1.9tdi
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure that the North American MK4 Golf had 1.4 or 1.6 engine.
    (MK4 was 1999 ==> 2005)

    The only engines I am aware that were available in North American MKIV Golf are
    *)2.0 L 4cyl gasoline
    *) 2.8L VR6 gasoline
    *)1.9L TDI Diesel

    The 1.4L and 1.6L engines were in previous models (MK2 and MK3)

    Also, please define what you mean by "best".
  • zoestarzoestar Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light came on, car started shaking/vibrating when first started. I took it for a drive & the vibrating stopped except when sitting idle at a light or stop sign. Just rained so I don't know if it has something to do with moisture or something? Checked oil, oil was fine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Oil -level has absolutely NOTHING to do with how an engine runs.

    Since you mention it just rained.... the "shaking" you describe (which tends to go away once the engine gets hot and dries out) is most likely due to spark-plug wires or the ignitor-coil itself.
  • bermanator55bermanator55 Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 99' 2.0 golf have major maintenance on it three months ago. They replaced my max flow sensor and cleaned my ignitors. But now I have my check engine light on and a funny acrid smell from my exhaust. It is not smoky, just a high pitch smell to it. Also, I had to add a quart of oil recently. Any ideas on what the problem is?

    Andy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked for ideas...

    Bad batch of gas in the tank?
    O2 sensor problem?
    MAF sensor?
  • steveeg605steveeg605 Member Posts: 2
    hello my 1999 golf is spluttering when idle occasionally it cuts out when revs drop down ive had new sparke plugs injectors cleaned and a general service done not so long ago the exaust is a bit noisey when driving could anyone help me to find out what the problem could be thank you
  • jaranajarana Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 VW Golf, 5-speed manual, 44,100 miles on it.

    I've been having problems with the engine light for a few years now. I desisted from taking it to the dealership because they told me that they needed me to remove my radio and have the original VW radio reinstalled in order to run their computers... So, the light would come on and then would go away.

    The car runs fine except that in neutral or when it idles the rps drop slightly as if the car wanted to stall, even though it never does. It sort of trembles and passengers can feel that.

    I have also noticed that the light comes on when I first start the car, especially if the outside temperature has dropped. The second instance when the light comes on is when breaking or disengaging the clutch in an abrupt manner. These two things make me think that the problem must be related to the fuel pump or something like that but I can't make sense of the temperature problem, which is much more frequent...

    Thank you for your responses.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Both of my daughters had 2001 VWs with the 2.0L engine. On both of their engines, the hose that feeds vacuum signal to the fuel-pressure-regulator got old-n-crispy and broke off.

    This hose is VERY easy to replace. it is located just under the engine-cover on the passenger side.The hose is about 1 foot long. The engine-cover popps right off without tools because it is rubber-mounted. (pull the dipstick out first, then pull UP on the front of the engine-cover... then it pulls twards you to release the rear clips.)

    If your hose is broken/leaking, then the fuel-pressure at idle may be incorrect.
  • lilsam47386lilsam47386 Member Posts: 1
    i have an 86 golf wolfsburgh edition, when i first start the car and drive it, it runs great, but when it starts to warm up it starts to cut back on me and tries to shut down, i think it might be the fuel pump but not sure, when i drive the car i can still hear the fuel pump running, it sounds like a buzzing noise is that normal? and if not could that be the prob with the car and also it losses power and cuts back when i floor it, it kinda sputters during both events if anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated thanks.

    Lil Sam
  • dontgetagolfdontgetagolf Member Posts: 2
    I had this same problem. (including the rain part.) They tried replacing the spark plugs, the mass air flow sensor, the oxygen sensor. I eventually had to replace the ignition coil pack. Take it to the dealer, nobody else will know what's going on.

    last summer my air conditioning died and since then I have spent between $5-6000 on this dagnabbit car.
  • dontgetagolfdontgetagolf Member Posts: 2
    I also have an 01 golf. The check engine light went on about a month after I bought it, and would go on again about once a week. Once I drove it for two months with the light on. If it's under warranty, make sure they replace every single thing that has ever been recalled for this car. This is an awful car, it will give you no end of headaches. There will always suddenly pop up some reason why you have to take it in to be looked at. A lot of the time the mechanics won't really know what's wrong so you will have to bring it back a day or two later when the problem returns. Sorry to be the voice of doom. Good luck.
  • jdknightleyjdknightley Member Posts: 2
    i just bought a 96 golf and i am having a few problems with it. its got a tick it seems when it gets into third gear and shakes in the gas pedal and front end when it gets to certain point in 5th gear. it kind of shakes the car and is extremely loud. also the "safe" system is engaged on my stereo system, does anyone know how to fix that? let me know, love vw's just not too happy with my buy right now.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You are describing a counple different issues here.

    The "tick tick tick" accompanied by a 'shake' sure sounds like a CV joint (Constant Velocity). Usually, a bad CV joint will sound worse when you turn one direction or another. If it is a bad CV joint, it must be replaced before your driveshaft snaps off....accompinied by severe damage and likely crashing and bodily-injury.

    To be 'fair' to your new VW purchase, a CV joint typically lasts about 90K miles on the MK3 VWs. I suspect you have more miles than that on your 1996. In other words, it has served its useful life.

    The "SAFE" on the stereo simply means that the power was lost at some point and the stereo thinks it has been stolen. Disconecting the battery is the most common way to cause "SAFE" to happen on the stereo.

    To fix "SAFE", look in the owners-manual to find out the 'secret code' you need to tap into the stereo to get it out of "SAFE" mode.

    If you dont have owners manual, unfortunately your ONLY recourse is a VW dealer who can get it out of SAFE mode. Make certain that they tell you the secret code so you have it for future use.
  • jdknightleyjdknightley Member Posts: 2
    Gotcha. The radio issue is working it's self out and as for it being the cv joint that sounds very plausible cause it's at 129k miles. But it doesn't shake when I turn. It's just really loud in the car and sounds like it's got a putt or a stutter just really loud. Getting it checked out Friday hopefully but would like to know what I may be up against before I take it to the shop.
  • ileana3ileana3 Member Posts: 1
    I have VW 2000 108,000 miles. Everything was good, the car was running great. Yesterday I have noticed that the engine got noisy, and the car struggles, it runs, but ti feels like struggles.

    I took it for an oil change and I thought that was the problem, but it was not. After I get it back this afternoon, the noise continues...Please help me with any advise.
  • hardridincwbyhardridincwby Member Posts: 12
    Hello, have odd question. As you can this little car has many miles,still kicks 25 mpg. Just replaced power assist on brakes, now car will die when brake pedel is pressed. any ideas ?
    I am seaching for the vacum check valve, no parts house has a listing. Also, can you please tell me where the pcv filter is, checked the cam cover out is it mounted in the cover? Seems to be a filter of some kind in the top at the pcv port. Thank you in advance for all your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Obviously, the new brake-booster is causing the stalling. Most likely because vacuum was not plumbed-in properly. (A vacuum-leak can easily stall an idling engine)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You did not say which engine you have but I am not sure VW uses a "PCV Valve" design like some other vehicles. All VW engines I have seen use a 'vapor seperator'.

    Lets not forget WHY some engines use a "PVC valve"...it is to prevent explosion by snapping shut if the engine backfires into the intake-manifold. This prevents flame-front from passing into the engine-crankcase.
  • hardridincwbyhardridincwby Member Posts: 12
    1.8 ohc. Stalling was starting prior too the replacement. I have located the vacuum check valve still looking for new part. Vapor separator system, sounds like I have the right part. May need new cam cover so as to increase the quantity of vacuum from the engine.
  • silveraerosilveraero Member Posts: 2
    your stereo has to have to 4 digit code entered. should be written in your owners manual somewhere. i had the same problem but didn't have the code. if that is your case then just buy a new stereo. i did at best buy for $70. the only other way to get the code is if u get the stereo serial # and pay them $95. to enter the code hold down the far right/bottom button and one of the far right scrolls for 3 sec. u only have 2 chances to enter the right code or byby radio. just get a new one. the security light inst for your cars alarm sys just for the radio...ie the problem ur having. happens any time the battery is disconnected or the radio looses power. good luck.
  • chrisj100chrisj100 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Hi All,

    I'm new to this forum...

    Just bought a 57 plate VW Golf 1.9 Tdi Match with 44k on the clock. I've noticed that when I switch the engine off there is sometimes a 'groaning' noise that lasts up to 10 seconds. It starts off quite loud and gradually gets quieter (and lower pitched) - sounds like something slowing down - a belt or fan perhaps. The car came with a 30 day warranty so I took it back to the dealer who says it's nothing serious, just one of the engine modules making a noise - they seem reluctant to do anything about it. Not sure if they're pulling the wool over my eyes with the 'module' explanation or it's something more serious.

    Any ideas?

    Ps. I also noticed that the air intake cover wasn't attached - not sure if this might be related.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just for future reference, it is customary to use a supplemental power-supply to temporarily supply voltage to the system whilst the battery is being R&R.

    A typical way to provide external voltage is to use a standard 9Volt battery connected thru the power-outlet inside the vehicle. Using this technique, the radio will NOT go into 'SAFE' mode and the onboard computer will not lose its programming.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2012
    Are you letting the engine/turbocharger to idle for awhile before shutting down?
    Are you certain you are not hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'?

    Of course, if you are hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'... then you may not be allowing your TDI to idle for several seconds before shutting-down the engine. This is a sure way to destroy the turbocharger-bearings.

    As soon as you shut-down the engine, the oil-supply to the turbocharger ceases.... you never EVER want the turbocharger to spin without oil-supply. (turbocharger is a $1,000 part!)
  • nor5nor5 Member Posts: 1
    My Golf will not rev over 5000 rpm, I have replaced coil plugs distributor.
    Does anyone have an idea.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2012
    Your description sounds as if the engine computer has fallen into "limp mode" to protect the engine.

    Is the CEL illuminated? (Check Engine Light)

    If yes - you need to have your engine-computer 'scanned' so you know what codes are within it. These codes will help tell you what the problem is.

    Also, a VW engine will NEVER rev very high whilst the brake is depressed. (or the brake-pedal switch is malfunctioning and it THINKS the brake is depressed.) I mention this because VW has had several recalls regarding the brake-pedal switch.
  • bobi1987bobi1987 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2015
Sign In or Register to comment.