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They have some werid circuits. Mine calmed down after changing the relays. Changed too many at one time to tell you the specific one.
Best of luck
Any ideas what these codes may mean?
P2181/18613
P1326 CYL 2
Pls. if anyone had this problem from the past I need your advise desperately.
thx in advanced
zee
thanks
Don
I'm wondering if it is easy to replace the crank sensor in my 2001 golf diesel? And I also don't know how long I can run without doing so?
Thanks in advance!
cause i have a 95 golf, and it does the same thing, cuts out, chugs and jurks...
I have a 1997 VW Golf with a 2.0L 4 cylinder. It has 133,xxx miles on it and runs pretty good. I'd like to upgrade the engine a bit but don't even know where to start looking. I was thinking of new pistons and rods, a new manifold and even a cheap turbo if I can afford it.
My problem is that I have very little mechanical experience. I know how to do oil and my front brakes, that's about it. Although I have a few good friends who own a shop and would be more than willing to help me out.
Basically what I'm asking is for someone to give me advice on where to get the parts, what I should get, and any tips or things like that.
Where do we find the thermostat??
A misbehaving thermostat would NOT affect the heater because the heater-circuit plumbing does not pass thru the thermostat.
To more specificly answer your question, the thermostat is mounted on the waterpump where the lower radiator hose connectes to the engine.
QUESTION FOR YOU: When you had the timing-belt replaced, did you also have the waterpump and thermostat replaced? Did they use a BRASS impeller waterpump?... or the cheap plastic one?
(MK4 was 1999 ==> 2005)
The only engines I am aware that were available in North American MKIV Golf are
*)2.0 L 4cyl gasoline
*) 2.8L VR6 gasoline
*)1.9L TDI Diesel
The 1.4L and 1.6L engines were in previous models (MK2 and MK3)
Also, please define what you mean by "best".
Since you mention it just rained.... the "shaking" you describe (which tends to go away once the engine gets hot and dries out) is most likely due to spark-plug wires or the ignitor-coil itself.
Andy
Bad batch of gas in the tank?
O2 sensor problem?
MAF sensor?
I've been having problems with the engine light for a few years now. I desisted from taking it to the dealership because they told me that they needed me to remove my radio and have the original VW radio reinstalled in order to run their computers... So, the light would come on and then would go away.
The car runs fine except that in neutral or when it idles the rps drop slightly as if the car wanted to stall, even though it never does. It sort of trembles and passengers can feel that.
I have also noticed that the light comes on when I first start the car, especially if the outside temperature has dropped. The second instance when the light comes on is when breaking or disengaging the clutch in an abrupt manner. These two things make me think that the problem must be related to the fuel pump or something like that but I can't make sense of the temperature problem, which is much more frequent...
Thank you for your responses.
This hose is VERY easy to replace. it is located just under the engine-cover on the passenger side.The hose is about 1 foot long. The engine-cover popps right off without tools because it is rubber-mounted. (pull the dipstick out first, then pull UP on the front of the engine-cover... then it pulls twards you to release the rear clips.)
If your hose is broken/leaking, then the fuel-pressure at idle may be incorrect.
Lil Sam
last summer my air conditioning died and since then I have spent between $5-6000 on this dagnabbit car.
The "tick tick tick" accompanied by a 'shake' sure sounds like a CV joint (Constant Velocity). Usually, a bad CV joint will sound worse when you turn one direction or another. If it is a bad CV joint, it must be replaced before your driveshaft snaps off....accompinied by severe damage and likely crashing and bodily-injury.
To be 'fair' to your new VW purchase, a CV joint typically lasts about 90K miles on the MK3 VWs. I suspect you have more miles than that on your 1996. In other words, it has served its useful life.
The "SAFE" on the stereo simply means that the power was lost at some point and the stereo thinks it has been stolen. Disconecting the battery is the most common way to cause "SAFE" to happen on the stereo.
To fix "SAFE", look in the owners-manual to find out the 'secret code' you need to tap into the stereo to get it out of "SAFE" mode.
If you dont have owners manual, unfortunately your ONLY recourse is a VW dealer who can get it out of SAFE mode. Make certain that they tell you the secret code so you have it for future use.
I took it for an oil change and I thought that was the problem, but it was not. After I get it back this afternoon, the noise continues...Please help me with any advise.
I am seaching for the vacum check valve, no parts house has a listing. Also, can you please tell me where the pcv filter is, checked the cam cover out is it mounted in the cover? Seems to be a filter of some kind in the top at the pcv port. Thank you in advance for all your help.
Lets not forget WHY some engines use a "PVC valve"...it is to prevent explosion by snapping shut if the engine backfires into the intake-manifold. This prevents flame-front from passing into the engine-crankcase.
I'm new to this forum...
Just bought a 57 plate VW Golf 1.9 Tdi Match with 44k on the clock. I've noticed that when I switch the engine off there is sometimes a 'groaning' noise that lasts up to 10 seconds. It starts off quite loud and gradually gets quieter (and lower pitched) - sounds like something slowing down - a belt or fan perhaps. The car came with a 30 day warranty so I took it back to the dealer who says it's nothing serious, just one of the engine modules making a noise - they seem reluctant to do anything about it. Not sure if they're pulling the wool over my eyes with the 'module' explanation or it's something more serious.
Any ideas?
Ps. I also noticed that the air intake cover wasn't attached - not sure if this might be related.
A typical way to provide external voltage is to use a standard 9Volt battery connected thru the power-outlet inside the vehicle. Using this technique, the radio will NOT go into 'SAFE' mode and the onboard computer will not lose its programming.
Are you certain you are not hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'?
Of course, if you are hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'... then you may not be allowing your TDI to idle for several seconds before shutting-down the engine. This is a sure way to destroy the turbocharger-bearings.
As soon as you shut-down the engine, the oil-supply to the turbocharger ceases.... you never EVER want the turbocharger to spin without oil-supply. (turbocharger is a $1,000 part!)
Does anyone have an idea.
Is the CEL illuminated? (Check Engine Light)
If yes - you need to have your engine-computer 'scanned' so you know what codes are within it. These codes will help tell you what the problem is.
Also, a VW engine will NEVER rev very high whilst the brake is depressed. (or the brake-pedal switch is malfunctioning and it THINKS the brake is depressed.) I mention this because VW has had several recalls regarding the brake-pedal switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlwX3uBClYA&feature=youtu.be