Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Sorry for getting off topic.
There are two kinds of auctions I know. One is exclusively for dealers in which you can test drive the vehicles. If vehicles don't get sold there, they fall into public auction places. Therefore, typically, vehicles at the public auctions are not in good shapes.
The 2nd best way to buy used cars (if you have patience) is to ask a used car dealer you know well to watch the dealer auctions for certain vehicles you want. Typically, such dealers charge you some fee (says, $500 for the effort), and you pay the auction price + auction fee. In dealer auction, dealers bring their own mechanics and get to test drive them. Therefore, this is less an lottery compared with public auction (in which you can't test drive!).
I was able to find a 06 Honda Civic in great condition at 10-20% below market value (FMV).
Any thoughts on the price..good deal or could I do better?
What are the average OTD costs once the vehicle price is fixed? I know Tax, title and license but are there any dealer doc fees or any others I should be careful about? What are the average dealer fees, excluding TTL?
Final price was around $32k before TTL. ($34.5k all-in in NJ)
Price includes $4k incentive for no mazda financing. I disagree with a previous poster who said the 0% financing is worth more than $2500 in savings. I didn't think the 0% financing (for 3 years) was worth it, since the implied financing cost of having payments based on a selling price that is $2500 more is around 5% (and risk free money earns a lot less than that today).
I advise using the Excel spreadsheet here...works great: http://www.vertex42.com/Calculators/auto-loan-calculator.html
I see the moonroof / bose, did you get the GT Assist package as well?
Thanks,
DBC
I plan to keep the car a long time and we put high mileage on our vehicles so the 2008/09 model year difference doesn't matter too much to me. After 2-3 years it will have the "right" amount of miles on it for a used '08. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm a willing cash buyer but the deal has to be right. We are replacing a 2004 Durango Hemi Limited that is in perfect condition but has 131k on it. So, I have no immediate need and the smart thing would probably be to drive it until it stops as it can't depreciate much more. But, we want a new car, no longer need a tow vehicle, and like the CX-9, so if the price is low enough, I'll go for it.
silver.
Now if you have that same cash earning >5% in the market instead, you should finance. But I can't guarantee myself >5% in this market.
additional dealer installed options added around $400 to selling price.
As a long term vehicle keeper, getting the mileage on the odo "right" is irrelevant. You got a lot of good use out of your old vehicle, you want a new one, go beat up a few dealers pricing an '09 and enjoy your new ride.
2008 Mazda CX-9 $6,250 Customer Rebate
or
0.0% APR for up to 60 MONTHS + $2,000 Customer Cash Rebate OR
1.9% APR for up to 72 MONTHS + $2,000 Customer Rebate Cash
Haven't seen anything for July.
I would think you could get a great deal. I bought my 2008 Sport in April and got $12,500 off sticker (= 40% off). Incentive was $5,250 at that time. It was a demo w/ 3k miles.
Not sure about the model and upgrades you are looking at, but if I got that off a Sport you should be able to get close to that or better on a brand new one, especially Touring or GT. Mine was a demo, so I'd guess $11k off might be about right.
I agree that right now an '09 is worth at least $3,000 more than an identical '08, but if I hold the car 5 or 6 years and put 130k on the odometer, the difference won't matter much at all. Still, we might not like the car as much as we think we will or could decide to get rid of it for any reason, so you are right that if we can't get enough extra off we are probably better off with an '09.
As I look at it, I SHOULD be able to get around $4,200 to $4,500 under invoice on a new '09 - so that makes it around $7,00 to $7,500 on a new '08. If anyone sees it differently or has other information, please let me know and thanks for what you've already given!
make sure you ask the dealer to check if your new 2008 has any outstanding TSBs that apply to it. Better have the dealer fix them before you take it home. Later models, of course, have less applicable TSBs.
Sale price 31k plus ttl
I learned a lot here. This definitely helped with my negotiations. I even walked out of the first dealer.
Thanks to all for the help that you provided.
The MSRP on this used 2008 with 5,600 miles was $37,600. She offered me the car at a non-negotiable $32,500. What a crock. First, I'm not buying a used 2008. If I want to do that, they are going at auction for about $18,500. Second, I know from this thread that the car has at least $6,250 in cash on it (or did as of June) and the invoice was about $33,500. The dealer cost is well under $27k on that car, and I don't even know what other support they may have on it at this point. I feel like I just wasted a lot of time researching a CX9 if that's the way the dealer is going to try to do business with me. I guess that's why they still have 5 2008s on their lot - they are waiting for someone
Good price, any thoughts on it?
The dealership in MN was excellent, friendly folks, no high pressure tactics.
The Fin mgr did try to sell me the warrant contract, told him i'd think abt it. He then dropped the price by 15%!
.
The lowest quote that I got for a GT FWD with moonroof with an MSRP 36.6k was 31k.
A GT FWD with roof & nav with an msrp of 39650 is 33.5K.
What auctions do you go to? I cannot touch a 2007 GT AWD for under $22,000 at the auctions. I have been to 6 auctions from New York to Florida. Mazda wants $24,000 +++ for off lease CX-9's. $18,500 is a pipe dream my friend.....
Second, I know from this thread that the car has at least $6,250 in cash on it (or did as of June)
The cash incentive on the 2009 CX-9 for June was $4,000 and an additional $1,000 if you currently own a Mazda. I don't even print out the 2008 incentives anymore because the North East sold out of 2008's 6 months ago
Local Mazda dealer near me has 5 2008s still on their lot. I thought they were all new, but it turns out one of them was a demo. It looks like they bought 4 of them from other dealers - 2 from ft. myers and 2 from somewhere in MS according to the sticker.
So what do you think a good deal is, in relation to invoice, on both a new 2008 and a new 2009? My guess is invoice minus 4k for 2009 and invoice minus 6.25k for 2008? Unrealistic?
Is there a way to get the $1000 cash without being a current/past Mazda owner?
Since I am a dealer, I will give you the business side. First, having any 2008's left is a bad business mistake. How that dealer has 2008's left is beyond me. 2009's in my area, North East, are becoming very very slim. No dealer will swap with another dealer and 2009 supply will not last until the 2010's get here. I would really like to make a few hundred over invoice on the 2009's. Fortunately, in my area there is a supply vs demand issue in my favor.
I am not aware of the inventory of CX-9's in your area, but, if you can negotiate at least an invoice deal on a 2009 CX-9, I would think that is a good deal. If you can get better then that, then more power to you! I would stay away from a 2008, since you will not be able to buy a "new 2008" at the market rate of a pre-owned 2008.
Let us know how you make out!
Also, did you mess with a trade?
$23,995+ttl = $25,300 out the door for standard Sport with roof rack and power seats option.
I was disappointed in trade in value. They offered 2k for my '03 mazda mpv. We just decided to keep it.
it wasn't refundable. What do I do now?
In most cases, deposits are usually not refundable because that means that the item is reserved for you and it's an indication that you're interested and want the dealer to hold the car for you.
I would refer to the terms of agreement when you put down the deposit.
I will be picking up my 2009 CX-9 GT AWD tonight. I am considering the extended warranty. What price should I be expecting to pay for this? What are your experiences with this service?
Thanks,
Dave
In CA, all deposits are refundable. The precedence has been set in CA court.
All dealers know that.
One ugly way to get your money back is to sue them in small claim court.
You need to file paperworks yourself (no lawyer needed). Small-claim is for $$$ less than 3000 (at least in CA). I bet if you tell the salesman that you will go to small-claim court (I hope that you have a sound reason why you want the deposit back...or you may lose the case there if it does go there.) for your money, most dealers will try to avoid the hassles and give you the money back. I can't be sure, though. It is your choice.
Just bought an 09 CX-9 AWD Touring with Moonroof/Bose in KY, taking the $4K cash. MSRP was $35.8. We got it for base price of 28700 (no $1K customer loyalty cash). With TL/processing fees of 500, and 1700 in taxes, came to 30913 OTD. Bought it from Paul Miller Mazda in Lexington. They found exactly the vehicle we wanted and brought it down to us. Fairly painless negotiation. My guess is that they've got some kind of hidden volume incentives for the dealers -- their first offer was at 29.3, so we mainly just dropped all the processing fees in the final deal, and it went very quickly. Good luck hunting folks!
We really like the car, what a nice ride! We were down to the CX9 GT and Pilot Touring. We liked each car equally as well (with relatively small advantages and disadvantages to each). Our decision came down to availability and price. Honda isn't offering any incentives right now, so the price for a comparably equipped Honda would have been much more.