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Comments
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You said u 'yanked' at the resistor (cause the 2 far screws were difficult), so did u have to break it free?
I'm trying to just get the fan working (cause tll it gets worse, i can handle the occasional dytime run lights problem), & thought of a last resort (or 'quick/temp. fix):
Connect power wires/a sep switch directly to the fan (assuming it works, of course). If it works, it could save down time.
Opinion??
I had the windshield cowl leak too, so my resistor board was fried black as well.
It's been over a month now and everything is running perfectly!
Good luck.
I did not break the resistor when pulling it out. I was firm but gentle. I just wiggled it back and forth till it came loose.
I'll help you with any information about removing the fan and resistor, because like Christy, I have spent hours examining and testing these items. But like Christy, I must also tell you that you are wasting your time. The solution will only be found in the ignition switch.
Even if you hotwire the fan (12volt source---->on/off switch----->fan), I think you will still have a problem. You will have a fan that operates at one speed, however, if you bypass the dash controls, I'm not sure you'll be able to control the temperature of the air coming out of the vents. And more importantly, the ignition switch controls alot more than the a/c and driving lights, so eventually you are just going to encounter more and more problems.
Thanks.
I have a remote starter in the car and the shop who did it said if the fan doesnt turn on with the remote start, well its not the "ignition switch" thing because that actually bypasses those wires (the orange and yellow) . Are they mistaken?
Please...in need of some desperate help here! WINTER is upon me in Pennsylvania and i need my defoggers....
ANY help would be greatly appreciated..thank you!
then , connect a volt meter pos. to it, & connect the meter's neg lead to a ground. Then turn ignition on, & turn on the fan switch. How many volts are at each fan setting?
(eg, are u getting enough voltage? Example: our '02 Grd Prix reads at appx 6-8 volts, & has the same heater/air fan prob. as you, so, in our car, something is preventing enuf working voltage from going thru, ..so lets eliminate this same condition/factor in your car).
Question: is the shop referring to the ENGINE FAN, or to the cabin fan??
Please ask your friend somthing for me: (for us both reallY):
What component could cause there only to be 6-7 volts at the blower motor connector?
A parts store persoon says it could be a relay, but don't know WHICH relay, or where to find it?
Hope this helps!
COULD YOU SEND DETAILED INSTRUCTION ON HOW TO REPLACE THE IGNITION WIRING?
I ASSUME THE WIRING IS CHEAPER TO REPLACE THAN RESISTOR AND BLOWER?
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP IN ADVANCE
-did the fan gradually fail, or all at once?
-how many miles on the car when this happened?
-Have you check the fuses (there's about 4 connected w. the fan, heater system, etc.)?
Also, your meesage is under the title 'blown relay switch' so do you think it is that, & WHY??
I have a problem , may be some one can help.
Rescently I bought Pontiac Grand prix 2000, 50K Miles. My heater doesn't work properly. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. It is totaly unpredictable and random. Also, I have noticed that engine heat level sometimes goes down. Sometimes it runs almost to the half and then it gous down to quoter. Is it normal?
Can it be due to bad thermostat? or any other reason it can be?
Apreciate any help or information...
Also, I noticed that thermostat is cheap around $12 online. Is it hard to change? Are there any manuals online that you know?
I had also wondered if going to the 1/2 way point was normal,...apparently it IS!
Our '02 always , at MOST, goes to the 1st notch after the 1/2 way mark of th temp guage, then creeps back, sometimes jus a little, other times to the 1/4 mark, th eecooler mark, depends on car speed/outside temp, etc.
When i rented a pontiac/chevy cars before, they ALL stayed around the 1/2 point,..so i am secure with it (my '72 charger usually only ran at the 1/4 cool mark, so each car's different!).
We need people that have had the heater fan problem, & fixed it to tell us what caused it!!!
It is located under the glove copartment on the passenger side. you have to take out the three plugs holding the carpet on then look back behind the blower motor. take off the three screws holding on the blower motor, that way you can get to the resistor. take off the only screw on the front of the resistor assy. , then use a 7/32 wrench and ease the screw that you can see out of the back of the assy. then just use plyers and take it out. then just do every thing in reverse to put the new one back in!!!
it really sucks and is a [non-permissible content removed] to get out took me about an hour. I think some swivle sockets would really help, I just dont have them.
you can use small jumper wires to 'check' first that replacing the resistor willl fix the problem, 1st (meaning don't permenantly install it, just run wires thru it, from the resistor to the blower motor, and from the resistor to the resistor wire harnass that comes from under the dash.
That's what i did, 1st, so i could return the resistor ( also tried it with a new blower motor), in case these items weren't to blame after all (& in my case, they were NOT defective).
That way you can return them to the auto store!!/get refund.
My powered seat on the drivers side is stuck almost all the way forward. I'm 6'8" tall so it causes a bit of a problem while driving.
When I try to make the seat move back, only one side of the seat moves...the other side does not. Anyone know what may be causing this?
Anyone else who owns a GP think that the bottoms fall out of these things after about 80K miles or so? It seems like I am having one problem after another!
I took my mechanic an article from this site and he fixed it right up.
Should work for you as well!
If you have the issue of your Blower NOT working on speeds 1-4, this is probably your Blower resistor part. (a bit difficult to remove, but doable, price $25)
If you have the issue of your Blower NOT working on any speeds 1-5, this is going to be the Blower motor resistor or the Blower motor (very easy to uninstall and reinstall, price $50-$150, pending manual or automatic climate control).
If you have the issue of multiple things going wrong, HUD, Heated seats, Daytime running lights shutting off, rear defogger - This is most likely your Ignition Wiring ( i think the yellow and orange wires) thing that you read about on here.
I hope this helps, or at least saves you some diagnostic towards your problem.
thanks to all for your help. here is what I did and it solved the problem partially.
Originaly I had problem with heat and car not getting right temperature.
Here is what I did:
1 - I changed thermostat - it didn't solve anything.
2 - I went to mechanic and he proposed to change antifreeze, since mine had original one (the red one) and it is proven not to be a good one. It leaves a lot of dirt on the walls .. so I flashed old antifreeze, washed everything with water and put new green antifreeze, it solved the problem with heat. Now I get good heat for a week w/o any problem. However car still do not go to half point on the teperature bar. But, I guess it is not a huge problem.
3 - I have sort of new problem, samething as other describerd here. When I turn heater on headlights doesn't work, i have to turn them manualy, and also defroster doesn't work. I have to restart car for a few times, so it will start working normally. I will try the ignition wiring solution as it proposed here and let you guys know.
P.S. - Also as i understand it is very easy to change ignition wires, just change six wires and thats all? Does any one have any diagrams? let me know. Should I go to mechanic or I can do it myself?
thank you for your help.
Do you think it is safe to by from GMpartsdirect?
will described GM PART # 26068757 will work for allyears of pontiac grand prix? I have pontiac grand prix 2000 GT? If not do you know part number it will work with?
thanks,
Maksim
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=20670&cookieCheck=895402326
My blower gradually started failing on each of the fan settings (last1 being #5, then failed on that, too).
I still have my blower not working on my '02 grand prix, and i've done the following:
put 12 volts directly to the blower equaled it was good!
I then replaced the resistor (twice, to make sure), and it was also good.
****I then thought to ck the voltage after the resistor, going to the blower, and it read (trying it at ALL the fan settings) 6.5, to about 7 volts (=not enough for the blower to work!!).
A mechanic i spoke with said that it sounded like the voltage was 'shorting' somewhere, and that i should ck the voltage at the fuse panel.
He said if the fuse was getting 12 volts, then the short was 'after' the fuse panel (either between the switch & the panel, or the switch itself).
I mentioned this thing about others having the problem behind the steering wheel (eg, the wiring, ) & he said anything is possible.
Keep in mind, if it's in the ignition wiring, you'll have to take a lot of things apart (if it's the switch, even more!).
Consider also, the dex-cool/gasket problems (i'm selling the car!!)
*****Has anyone else taking readings & gotten low voltage after the resistor (going into the blower)???
What caused it????
What could the matter be?
The next issue, is still with the blower. With the lights set to come on automatically like most cars are today, if the switch is off, the lights will come on. The second that you turn the blower switch to 1-4 the lights will go off, and only come back on by going to off or 5. Somehow this is all tied together. Any ideas from the experts on this panel. Thanks.