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Chevy HHR Brake Problems

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Comments

  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    Go figure?

    I went to my G.M. Dealer a couple of weeks ago to get a "Annual Check-Up" on my 2010 LT2 HHR done and they checked the brakes.
    I have 21 k on it and the mechanic said that if I don't change my driving habits I'm good for at least 3 years or more without changing the brakes or up to 55 k. He said that the way I drive I've used approximately 1 mm. of brake lining per year.
    Before the HHR I had a 2005 Equinox and when I traded it in it had 67 k on it and still had the original brakes and tires.

    Something must be wrong somewhere?
  • hhr2007hhr2007 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 HHR LT, which I changed the rotors and pads about a year ago.
    I installed the power stop drilled and slotted rotors and the ceramic brake pads. They have been very good at stopping but are very noisy. When using them lightly everything is find, but if you need to stop a little quicker they sound like there grinding. Still stops good. I only have 51000 on the car and I purchased the car new. Had to replace the pads at 32000 and thats when I went with PowerStop. I am having the original rotors turned and putting another set of ceramic pads on the car because of the noise.
  • bahillenbahillen Member Posts: 3
    I also am "fortunate" to own a 2010 HHR. I am taking it to the shop today because of the
    shaking when you apply the brakes. It also has had the problem with the key stuck in the ignition and not being able to turn it off. The drivers side visor has fallen off, the windshield wiper squirter has quit working, and it is gurgling in the dashboard. The windows make a high pitch squeal everytime the roll up or down. I am so disgusted with this car and only have 20,000 miles. I will see what they have to say about the brakes. What is it going to take GM?
    Admit you screwed up!!
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    I also own a 2010 HHR 2LT and love it.

    For the brake problem...your front discs must be warped, your dealer have to machined them and the problem will be gone (this happened with my 2005 Equinox) if you put pressure on your dealer it will pass on warranty.
    For the problem with your ignition...didn't you receive a letter explaining that there is a recall on that? Mine didn't have that problem but I made the dealer change the ignition unit with no questions asked.
    Can't help with visor nor the windshield wiper squirter but these should be repair on warranty.
    For the high pitch squeal from your window...God Lord, mind does the same and "yes" it's a pain in the *** and ears every time I have have to get it down or up...but only the driver's side.

    All of this should pass on your warranty.
    Don't forget to mention the recall for the ignition.
    Good luck!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning bahillen,
    We hope that all went well with your visit yesterday - was it with one of our GM dealerships? As you have a 2010 vehicle and are at 20,000 miles, you are likely still within your Bumper to Bumper warranty. If we can check into anything further for you, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • kristi_mkristi_m Member Posts: 8
    Hey, Bahillen, I feel for you. I have the same problems with my 2010 HHR. The wipers started out having to push them down a few times, then the squirter quit, I have to sit and click the shifter about 10-15 times with the brake on before I can get out of Park. My window is a loud screeching. My driver's side visor is falling apart (and I never use it). Had the bearings go out at 18k. I have 42k miles and my car squeals like crazy!! ARGH!
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    Ouch! Mine did the same about the shifter. Stuck in park and it was brand new with only 62 miles on it (2010 2LT). They had to change the entire shifter unit and still at this day it seems to be doing it again, I have to pump the brake pedal a couple of times trying to get it out of "Park" on every try until until I'm able to shift it in "Drive".
  • warvinwarvin Member Posts: 10
    I have the illustrious 2007 HHR(LOL) and found out that after fixing my shaking front end that they found leaking in my struts. They gave me a lovely price of 1, 000. Even though they said my mileage was low for a 2007 car it should be replaced. I was just wondering is this the on-going price for replacing struts? Don't know. Any advice...LOL again...oh and by the way. I never got anything from GM indicating a recall on the ignition did anybody else received anything like that?
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning kristi_m,

    We're sorry to hear that you've had so many difficulties with your HHR; as you're at 42k miles you're outside of your bumper to bumper warranty on the vehicle, which would have covered many of the concerns you described. Is there anything you had been planning to have checked into further?

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    warvin,
    We can check for any open recalls on your vehicle if you wanted to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN to socialmedia@gm.com

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • kristi_mkristi_m Member Posts: 8
    I know I'm outside my bumper to bumper. Ironically, the only two cars I've had significant problems within this few of miles are Chevy's. I think I've learned my lesson. It's saying something when I'm selling it fairly cheap just to get rid of it before something ELSE goes wrong and no one wants it. Doesn't do me much good to keep a car with so many problems with many people experiencing the same problems, yet no recall on it so they can still profit. Everything (except this squeal/brakes), luckily, has fallen in the warranty, so I didn't have to pay other than a complete inconvience (like being told the ignition locking wasn't under recall or warranty and I'd have to pay $250... saying I was basically a liar when I called them on the problems within the ignition, only 500 miles outside my warranty). Now I have to drive 45 minutes to have it checked out and fixed. Again. Knew I should have listened to my dad bought that Focus instead. My daughter has had 3 of them, great cars. Going back to Ford and Nissan. :mad:
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    Go figure?

    I received a letter directly from G.M. Canada in Toronto telling me that the ignition unit on my 2010 hhr could and should be replace "no charge" because a recall had been issued for this.
    Yes it is a expensive job, that's why I had it done on mine even if I hadn't experience any problems with it. What I don't understand is that 3 of my friends own HHR's and also had the letter I'm talking about and got their ignition unit changed...no charge...no questions asked.
  • savisasavisa Member Posts: 1
    Hello, yesterday I received a letter from the Lemon Law lawyers saying that 2009-2011 HHR's are all having problems with the Shifter. I DID NOT receive anything from GM. That is what brought me here to this site. I read your post and have the same front end shaking as well as the squeaky windows (both front), shifter trouble when trying to get it out of park, and when I first bought the car had to have my brakes fixed several times before they actual did something to "patch" the problem. Now it just shakes when I'm stopping. They ended up doing something to the rotors when I took it in several times, BRAND NEW.... I have a 2010 with only 24K miles on it. Bought it new and the Rotor issue was right off the lot. What gives? When does a car officially become a LEMON?
  • bahillenbahillen Member Posts: 3
    I have not received any letters from GM. Does anyone know if there really is a recall on the HHR for the shifter problem? When I took my car to the dealer the last time they replaced my steering column, windshield squirter, fixed the brakes, and the gurgling sound in the dashboard. I picked it up and the signals and wipers did not work at all and had to take it back. It's been a about a month and now my blinkers don't work right again, and it has started making noise in the blower motor. It just turned over to 25000 miles and my warranty is up in April 2013. If there is anything that anyone can suggest that I have checked out before my warranty is up PLEASE let me know. Oh and. I will be having my squealing windows fixed. They screach so loud it hurts your ears. They must leak somewhere because they freeze shut really easy.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    bahillen,

    We'd be happy to check into your vehicle's information to see if there are any open recalls if you wanted to email us the last 8 digits of your VIN at socialmedia@gm.com (or if you wanted to check into it yourself, you can set up an Owner's Center account at https://my.chevrolet.com/web/portal/managemybrand?g=1).

    In regards to the other concerns you're having with your HHR and your dealership visits, we're happy to look into those further as well. If you contact us via email on that, please include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, a brief recap of the situation, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • dman71dman71 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 08 HHR and over the last few days when I press on the brakes the front passenger brake grinds. It does not happen every time, but enough to be alarming. It doesn't seem to effect it's braking ability and I don't notice it when I first initiate the brakes.

    When it randomly happens, it is always when the car is almost to a complete stop...almost seems like it is squeezing to hard at that point. When the car starts moving again, the pads lightly grind for a few rotations then the grinding stops.

    I have also noticed that when I turn when braking, I believe it can either initiate the problem or make it go away....but it is so random I am not really sure this has anything to do with it.

    I think I have an idea what it could be, but I would like your unbiased opinion before I engage my less then spectacular mechanic skills. Thanks.
  • hhr2007hhr2007 Member Posts: 2
    I guess the first question to ask is have you checked both brake pads on the passenger side to see if there worn out and need replaced. Maybe it is the wear indicator coming in contact with the rotor. The second thing, would be to check and make sure one of the pads does not have any debris between the pad and rotor. It sound to me that one of the pads is worn out. That the wear indicator is so close to the rotor that turning or any movement at all would make it come in contact with the rotor. Also, you should be able to look at the rotor and if you see any strange lines, then you know you have something coming in contact with the rotor. Need to get it checked right away before it damages the rotor. The rotor should be smooth on both sides.

    Hope this helps!
  • mbukukanyaumbukukanyau Member Posts: 200
    edited February 2013
    I have a 2006 HHR. 118,000.00 miles on it. I sell things so its typical for me to have in it up to a ton of stuff in it and drive all day around Southern California. Its a 2.4 Liter LT without onstar or sunroof but everything else, and its automatic.

    First things, Brakes, You need to upgrade HHR brakes from the factory rotors if you got anything but the SS model. Any Chevrolet Dealership will easily put better cross drilled rotors on there for about $400.00. The original were downright a rip off. Its better if they had sold the thing with no brakes.
    I changed the struts with aftermarket struts(Monroe) 2 years ago in place of the originals and this week, I am getting new ones installed by the Chevrolet Dealership.
    I am changing rear shocks, the ones back there are worn and leaking fluids, but it’s been 7 years and lots of load, and also some tie end rods and worn bushing mounts.
    Minor repairs (This week) include a broken rear washer hose replacement, some loose things under the exhaust system need tightening, tie end rods, plus the door weather strip rubber.
    This is my first Chevrolet after 6 Toyotas, including 4 in Africa and 2 Hondas plus a Mazda.
    The thing is, when you use cars, things break. You have to be reasonable. Save for the front rotors, my HHR has been perfect in the sense that I only have had to replace normal tear and wear things.

    If you expect to go and buy a Toyota and find automotive nirvana, or Honda, or better warranty or customer service, I say peace be with you, (for now).
    I have to say, this is the most trouble free car I have ever owned, and believe you me, my typical car does a lot of miles every two or three days. I drive at least 60 miles or a normal work day. This HHR will still run to the speedometers end after 118,000.00 miles within 18 seconds, (in a safe closed course of course) and will embarrass a lot of cars off the line. The interior and exterior is like show room, nothing is broken.

    The whole bill for this work, including the ordinary service is coming to about $1,300.00 in a Chevrolet dealership.

    Would I have work done at a mom and pops, Honestly, No, I do not want the drama or headache.
  • power4upower4u Member Posts: 1
    Going on my fourth set of rotors and pads. These brakes must simply be under designed for this car. I go through a set of rotors every other oil change. I am going to try performance brakes next, drilled and slotted, to see if this helps.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Sounds expensive. Recently, I had suspension work done on my 2007 Uplander with 80k miles. Struts, rear shocks, inner and outer tie rods, stabilizer bar, and 4 wheel alignment; total bill was $1,427 (taxes included, Canadian dollars). I went to a auto chain store (Canadian Tire) and not the dealer. The local dealer quoted close to $700 for just the tie rods. Shocks, struts, brakes, and suspension work can be done by most auto repair chains at prices much less than the dealer. Good luck.
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    I do the same...after the warranty is over it's Canadian Tire, Midas, Mr. Muffler, Monsieur 4 Roues, Les experts sur Roue...
    Anywhere except little private corner garages and Car Dealers.
  • lovinglifeinmdlovinglifeinmd Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problems, until I switched my rotors to the drilled. No more problems.
  • tlm325tlm325 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my HHR in October, 2010--it is a 2011. No problems until July 15, 2012 when I took it to a Pep Boys location in Pittsburgh, PA (it was a Sunday.) On that day they supposedly did a brake inspection and then informed me that I would need new brake pads. Work done and off I went. On December 7, 2012 took car back to same Pep Boys location because I noticed the front end "jimmying/shaking/vibrating"--whatever you want to call it. They supposedly did another brake inspection and then informed me the car would need new pads and possibly rotors if they were not able to "machine" them. As it turned out they did "machine" the rotors and put new ceramic brake pads on. Again off I went thinking well this time should be different. Not so because in late June/early July, 2013 noticed again that the front end was "jimmying/shaking/vibrating." Took it back to Pep Boys AGAIN!!! And this time Pep Boys supposedly did another brake inspection and this time informed me that the car would need new brake pads AND new rotors and calipers!!! Because of the prohibitive cost I decided to go to an independent garage. When I called this garage to see if they could do the work the manager/owner told me yes as long as I brought the parts with me (it was late in the afternoon at this point and I had to plans to go out of town the next day.) I purchased the parts at an auto parts store near my home and took these with me to the independent garage. An hour and half later I once again was on my way thinking for sure now things should be good. Not so, AGAIN!!!
    Last evening as I was coming home from work I came to a stop sign and of course, stopped. When I went to accelerate to move forward and I kid you not, the car made such a HORRID sound that I honestly believed the whole engine dropped out of the car. This morning I had it towed to the dealership where I purchased the car. The guy who towed it said he knew what the problem was when he had the front end up in preparation to tow it. The caliper on the passenger front wheel had "FALLEN OUT!!" After speaking to several people (the auto parts store; the guy who towed the car and the service person at the dealership) I learned that had this happened while I was driving down the highway (I take PA 43 to work everyday) 65 to 70 miles an hour the wheel would have "SEIZED UP." The person at the dealership even went so far as to say that had the caliper fallen out in this situation--and IF I would have survived it most likely would not have been a "pretty sight!!!" This whole scenario just makes me sick!!!
  • edscustomedscustom Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced my rotors and brakes and the problem comes back. Coming home from Big Bear this pass Spring the HHR started to shake and rattle. I felt like the car was disintegrating. This is suppose to be my family car. I cant take trips with my family in this car. It is not safe. This is a serious issue and I cant believe there isnt a recall. I have come to the conclusion that Chevrolet knows and dont care about safety. Sure I can take it to the dealer but I know for a fact they will not resolve my issue plus my warranty is up. I will never buy a Chevrolet again. Now I am stuck with a car that I dont feel safe in. There has to be an engineering flaw. Oh I forgot to mention the annoying rattle in the steering column.
  • snowmomansnowmoman Member Posts: 20
    You CAN'T GO TO THE DEALER and get this fixed. The only way you are going to fix it is to buy some slotted rotors and pads and install them. The GM rotors are junk. You can get these online at Ebay, etc. for about $125 for the set. I did this two years ago and have zero problems. The slots will dissipate the heat much better. Trust me, it works.
  • bahillenbahillen Member Posts: 3
    I totally understand your frustration. I had my brakes fixed in April and I need new ones already. I only drive nine miles to work and seldom drive on the weekends. I took my car to the dealer in April. I told them AGAIN that the front end feels like it is going to fall off. They replaced the steering column,brakes, struts, blower motor, and fixed the windows that were squealing. Here it is only 2000 miles later and everything that I had fixed is broke again and of course the warranty is up. Its a piece of crap with 36000 miles on it. My daughter is turning 16 and has her permit. I am afraid to let her drive my car. I agree that there should be a major recall on these cars. makes you wonder why they don't make them anymore? Once again the consumer getting it stuck to them!!
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    I have exactly the same mileage on my HHR and no problems whatsoever.
    Just went for a semi annual check up and my brakes are at...
    Front pads at 8 mm. and rear shoe at 4 mm. (mind you that they are the originals).
    I adore my HHR and to bad they stopped the production with the 2011 because I'm planning to trade mine in 2 years and would have bought another HHR...best car I ever owned in 38 years of driving...buying my cars new and trading them every 5 years. Must have gotten a "cream puff" right of the line.
  • dburn10251dburn10251 Member Posts: 2
    Have the universal joint on the steering column checked. There is a dry lubricant they use on this u-joint and when it wears down it causes heavy vibrations and a chunky rattling noise in the column.
  • debsnmdebsnm Member Posts: 1

    I also have a 2006 HHR. Mine has 109,000 miles on it, and the only problem I've had is the brakes. I've had the same problem with the steering wheel shaking when I step on the brake, but it only seems to be when I'm slowing down quickly (like from 65 to 45mph). I was first told there was oil in my brake line. This last time when I took it in, they said the wear on the rear brakes was at 30% - the exact same as the time before that. They started looking, and found that a part that diverts the brake fluid to front & rear brakes was clogged - the rear brakes are not getting any brake fluid, and therefore, aren't even being used.

    • I'm wondering if this is a systemic HHR problem? Has anyone checked their rear brakes specifically to see if there's a problem? BTW, my rear brakes are disc, don't even know if that makes a difference.
  • inultusinultus Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2014
    FYI, I have been working on cars for 24 years. From what I gather on this vehicle there are two major problems. First, the brakes were designed for the Cobalt, which is a much lighter vehicle. Secondly, this vehicle gets the vast majority of its braking power from the front, which puts undue burden and heat on the front brakes. Chevy directs their mechanics to turn the front rotors and replaces the front brake pads for this problem. That is only a temporary fix. To really fix the problem slotted and drilled rotors must be installed otherwise they will just overheat again and you will have the same problem in a few months. You can find slotted rotors at a very reasonable price (as recommended by another mechanic friend) at the Prime Choice website.
  • scottie12scottie12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 HHR with 29k. Was driving to a garage sale -driving less than 20mph and the esc.active light came on-first thought I had a flat tire-sort of bounced-did not have-in addition I tried to stop and it kept going. tried to apply brakes again and seemed to not work-so I put it in 2nd gear and drove to dealership. turned off car. When salesperson drove it he said he did not find a problem with it. So I am really concerned that it will happen again and I will not be able to brake. When the esc. active light came on and the brakes didn't work, I thought it meant to bail out- which I might have done-but it only has 29k so it is at the shop-my fear is that they will not be able to duplicate the problem and send me on my way- should I increase my life insurance?
    Dealership called today and said can't find anything wrong-could this be a brake-rotor problem-would a problem with them affect the esc active alert? thanks for any help-I'm afraid to drive it........kathy
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    scottie12 said:

    I have a 2010 HHR with 29k. Was driving to a garage sale -driving less than 20mph and the esc.active light came on-first thought I had a flat tire-sort of bounced-did not have-in addition I tried to stop and it kept going. tried to apply brakes again and seemed to not work-so I put it in 2nd gear and drove to dealership. turned off car. When salesperson drove it he said he did not find a problem with it. So I am really concerned that it will happen again and I will not be able to brake. When the esc. active light came on and the brakes didn't work, I thought it meant to bail out- which I might have done-but it only has 29k so it is at the shop-my fear is that they will not be able to duplicate the problem and send me on my way- should I increase my life insurance?
    Dealership called today and said can't find anything wrong-could this be a brake-rotor problem-would a problem with them affect the esc active alert? thanks for any help-I'm afraid to drive it........kathy

    Hello Kathy,

    We truly apologize for this, and we would be happy to look into this further for you! Feel free to send us an e-mail at socialmedia@gm.com along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and the dealer your vehicle is at. We look forward to hearing from you.

    Patsy G
    GM Customer Care

  • designsnprintdesignsnprint Member Posts: 0
    OEM brakes are definitely less sturdy than aftermarket brake pads!
    DesignsnPrint - Custom Invoice Printing
  • fallguy2005fallguy2005 Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2018
    I purchased my HHR new in 2006. I started having issues in 2011 from an incident applying the brakes hard. After that, I started getting a vibration when apply the brakes at freeway speeds. I do my work and in 2016 I replaced the rotors for the second time. That is when I notice the back brake shoes have never been in contact with the drums. One of the wheel cylinders was frozen. So, replaced the cylinder and shoes with new rotors and pads.
    A few months ago, a shop told me I had something like too much copper in my brake fluid and the system needed to be flushed.
    This seemed to work for three about months, and then they said I needed new rotors and pads. Well I have done this work before. I am not paying someone else. Later when I took the caliper off myself, to my surprise there was nothing wrong with my rotor and pads, WTF.
    Then a man said he had a vehicle with the same type of vibration when apply the brakes and the source was bad wheel bearings. Well mine appear to still be tight.

    Here is the thing; rotors do not keep going bad. Something else is causing this.

    Let’s see, I had bad brake fluid and a frozen wheel cylinder. Could it be the vibration is from the caliper sticking?
  • fallguy2005fallguy2005 Member Posts: 3

    Buy your new rotors and pads from a quality auto parts store ie: NAPA. Get the best rotors and pads they have. Turn the rotors before they are installed and have a good mechanic 0r ( DIY ) install them.
    That is what I did and have had no more problems.
    Stay away from the dealer. :)

    I disagree, just put new rotors on and see how they respond. If needed find a shop that can turn the rotors while on the vehicle so they are balance where they live.
  • fallguy2005fallguy2005 Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2018

    Re caliper problem:

    Rotors warp from abuse such as overheating, driving through puddles of water with the brakes very hot from a recent stop, or dragging calipers that don't release fully.

    Once a rotor is overheated or warped, in my opinion, it's done and needs to be replaced.

    To those who have come here and complain loudly that their disk brakes are shaking, replace the rotors, calipers (and caliper pins), and put on new pads. Your problem will be gone.

    Can rotors become warped from a one time quick event of apply the brakes hard?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    edited January 2018
    Can rotors warp from one time hard braking? Not if the rotors are quality rotors. BUT if the calipers are not sliding freely on their pins hard braking can push the caliper tighter against the piston and rotor, and then the caliper doesn't slip back with the rotation and the slight movement in the rotor from the wheel bearing normal play. Then the drag causes the rotor to heat up, sometimes only on one part which is slightly higher or thicker but still within tolerance, because the pads are dragging on that area. Then you have a shaking at higher speeds due to the tight pads against the rotor hitting as the higher spot on the rotor comes around.

    Replace the rotor--I like to buy the GM professional from sources on Amazon or Ebay. Verify the part numbers with acdelco.com and then shop.

    I'd replace the caliper with new pins if it hasn't been done. Lube the pins properly.

    And rarely I've heard call in radio programs with car mechanics on weekly shows talk about the interior of the brake hose collapsing and not letting the fluid return after pressurizing the caliper. IIRC, I believe the test was after applying the brake hard, open the bleeder screw and see if the pressure in the caliper is still high and squirts out fluid abnormally. I guess by testing both front calipers you'd have a bad one to compare with the other that usually would be okay. A far shot but a possible problem. Replacing the two rubber brake hoses would likely be a small cost. More trouble would be bleeding the air out of the lines after open the hose at that point closer to the master cylinder.

    Good luck.

    Remember the Law of Parsimony. The simplest solution is more likely the better one. So I offered the hose problem, but I'd think it's a far shot.

    I just did the brakes on my Cobalt at 100K mi a few months back for the first time. So I checked the calipers and the slides and they both seemed okay. I did not replace calipers nor did I do a rebuild on the calipers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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