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Volkswagen Passat Brake Questions

2

Comments

  • wyatt3wyatt3 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 passat wagon. the abs control module went out. i found a complete abs unit. but after reading up on it everything sais not to let air get in the unit. whats the best way to do this?
  • skizamiiskizamii Member Posts: 1
    quprof,

    I have the same vibration problem with my 2000 Passat. I don't have any ABS or worn brake pad warning lights, but right before a stop even on dry pavement the ABS kicks on hard. Sometimes it has prevented me from stopping and I nearly rear ended the car in front of me; I had to pump the brakes to get the ABS to stop so I could stop the car.

    Anyone know what is causing this? The manual says that at 4mph the ABS system kicks in as a system check, but I can't imagine this is what is going on.
  • pmarhipmarhi Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 2000 Passat. The only way to fix this is to repair/replace your ABS module. I brought my Passat into the dealer and was told I needed a new ABS module. Cost: $890. I found a company not far from me that that will rebuild your ABS module for $139 and guarantee it for as long as you own the car: BAA Reman, Taunton MA http://www.bba-reman.com/us/index.aspx. They also will sell you a rebuilt module for $199, but you must have the module re-coded, and my local dealer would not do that for me (nice guys, huh?). And you must send them your original module. If you have your own rebuilt and re-installed, no re-coding is necessary. So I had my local mechanic remove the module (you can still drive the car), and drove down to Taunton, MA where they are located. They were kind enough to do the rebuild on the spot (only takes about 45 mins.). Had lunch nearby and came back in 45 mins and took it home with me, had it re-installed by my local mechanic and problem solved! No more beeping, no more flashing lights. Total cost to me: $214 ($139 + $75 to remove and re-install). Highly recommend BAA Man. They couldn't have been nicer or more accommodating. Even have removal instructions on their website.
  • srn3srn3 Member Posts: 20
    Hi,

    I just went for an oil change and the dealer told me my rear brakes (both pads and rotors!!) need to be changed. I found this very unusual given that the car has only 29,000 miles. The dealer was like rear brakes tend to wear out much faster than front brakes on VWs. The dealer quoted a price of $415 Couple questions -

    1. Do rear brakes really wear out at 29,000 miles?
    2. Do I really need to change both pads and rotors? I would think that changing pads only would be fine.
    3. Isn't $415 a lot? Does this sound right?
    4. Is it usual for rear brakes to wear out before front brakes? I always thought front brakes tend to bear most of the braking load and would thus wear out much faster.

    I am hoping someone can help me with my questions.

    Thanks a lot and any insights are much appreciated!

    SN
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I don't have the current gen of Passat, but my '03 wagon definitely goes through rear brakes more quickly than the front. Original factory pad wore out in less than 23K miles. I've never had a car that did this before - neither driving habits nor location have changed. Anyway, I used PBR Deluxe pads and new rotors from Ate. Those lasted longer - 32K - but the rotors started to get rust rot on the swept area and wouldn't pass state inspection. The pads, though, had a lot of meat on them yet. Fronts were done around 57K.

    I don't ride the brakes andI downshift when descending hills. No other car that I've owned in the past or in the present has this wear pattern.

    $400+ sounds right for a dealership. You can do better elsewhere, but make sure you use quality products. Can't comment on doing the job yourself because of the electric parking brake - I think you need a VAG-Com to do the job.

    DIY on the old gen Passat was easy-peasy.
  • okieinmnokieinmn Member Posts: 2
    Where could I get the information to get my ABS module rebuilt?
    99 Passat 2.8 V6
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Have you tried googling it? Try: vw abs module rebuild
  • okieinmnokieinmn Member Posts: 2
    how do I change brake switch for 99 VW Passat
  • timbeef42timbeef42 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, bear with me here. Quite some time ago I was driving down the road and brake failure lights came on on my dash. I pulled over and tested the brakes on the side of the road. Noticed no degradation of performance of the brakes so I drove the car home. The warning lights intermittently would come on and off seemingly randomly. I realized it had been quite a while since I replaced the pads so, not having the time to do it myself, I took it to Mineke. They kept the car a day and said I needed rotors and pads. I Ok'd this and they replaced them. The brake warning lights did not go off. I mentioned this to Mineke and they said I may need to take the car to Volkswagen to get them to turn the light off. I have not done this yet because it appears to be just a nuisance. Now, however, the brakes are scrubbing. I have pulled the brakes apart and found that nothing obvious is wrong. Pads are still good, rotors are smooth and unworn. Caliper piston is not sticking and it's getting brake fluid from the brake lines. The car stops just fine but there is a constant scrubbing or grinding as if the pads are not releasing all the way after I apply them. I haven't driven the car much since the brake problems began but need to get it running now.
  • rgutrgut Member Posts: 1
    My owner's manual for 2004 V6 (2.6L I think) Passat shows a fully visible plastic brake fluid reservoir which can be checked by observation. My actural brake fluid reservoir is concealed behind a dark plastic shield so you cannot see the min max level indicators and the shield cannot easily be removed. Unscrewing the fill cap and you see a plastic screen so you cannot see the actual fluid level. How do you know if you need to add brake fluid. There is a yellow 1/2" dia slotted cap next to the filler cap that i turned 90 degrees with a screw driver hoping I could remove the entire reservoir cap but no luck.
    I bring this up because our brake STOP warning light came on recently and
    I am told adding brake fluid may correct this condition but I dont want to over fill.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    It's actually a 2.8 V6.

    That black plastic shield is very easily removed. Simply grasp the rubber gasket on the front edge (towards the engine) and pull it forward. Then lift the shield slightly and pull it out from under the windshield. It's harder to describe than it is to actually do. You'll then have a full view of the brake fluid reservoir. Youmight even want to change your cabin air filer while you have that cover off. It's cheap and easy to do (dealer has a special running right now to do this for $37. You can DIY for the cost fo the filter fo maybe $12).

    To give us a better idea what might be going on thw your brake fluid, a little more info would help. How many miles are on your current brake pads? The reservoir drops as the pads wear. This could be telling you it's time for a brake job. Alternatively, your brake fluid could be leaking - in any case, it's worth investigating.

    There could be other factors at play here, too. You might want to pull the codes with an OBD scanner at your local auto parts store (many do this for free) to see if there are any codes from the ABS module. Good luck!
  • skelley2skelley2 Member Posts: 4
    CC won't engage. The indicator light on the center console that shows the brake is depressed to shift into gear is reversed (lights up when foot off the brake and turns off when depressing brake. In addition, the console lights come on when I apply the brakes (like they do when I turn on my headlights. I think all are associated with Fuse #31. The CC is probably not engaging because it thinks I have my foot on the brake. I have checked the fuse and replaced it. It seems as if I have a problem with a switch somewhere...any ideas?
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Skelley2, are your brake lights functioning properly? I am wondering if the brake light switch on the brake pedal is the source of problem. Assuming this is an automatic, can you move the shifter from "Park" into "Drive" without depressing the brake pedal?
  • skelley2skelley2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response. GLX 4Motion Auto. Brake lights work fine and I can not move shifter from park to drive without depressing the brake pedal. Really confused on this one.
  • dsnappdsnapp Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem that i can't figure out that may be more related to the electrical system than the brakes but thought i'd post here. My 2001 VW Passat rear drivers side light bulb went out. I drove with it out for over a month. I got a replacement bulb and it was easy to replace but now I have some weird side effects.

    When I hit the brakes the dashboard lights always come on. Also, when I have the headlights on the rear brake lights are always on.

    If i take the replacement bulb out everything works as designed except i have a rear light out.

    Has anyone encountered something like this with VW lights? Does it sound like a problem with a fuse or a bigger issue with the wiring? I am out of ideas and hate bringing the car into the dealership. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • skelley2skelley2 Member Posts: 4
    I am havingthe same problem although I did not connect it to the light bulb I replaced. When I press the brake, the dash lights come on. I will take out the bulb and see what happens. Maybe this explains my previous posting.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Makes you wonder if it is the correct bulb number/style.
  • skelley2skelley2 Member Posts: 4
    Pulled the bulb and the dash light problem disappeared. Looks like you may have fixed my problem. Now to the auto parts store to see if I had the wrong bulb
  • thedon09thedon09 Member Posts: 1
    hi all. a while ago i braked in my 01 passat and the pedal stuck on. i got it free but the brakes kept sticking. i have changed the master cylinder but when i start driving its ok and after a few minutes the brake pedal is gone really hard and the brakes are slightly stuck on. any ideas???? thanks
  • dontudaredontudare Member Posts: 12
    Hi - I just had new brakes and axles put on my 2004 passatt
    The dealer told me i needed new front and rear breaks (91k ) and new rotors. THe price, along with two new tires was over 2500. I went to the place where I get my brakes done and tires - they did everything that VW was going to do but suggested new axles? -- still less money then VW. However, when i brake now, the car feels like the ABS system is coming on - like when you brake on ice. No lights come on -- the tire dealer said he wants to try a different type of pad which he has ordered - has anyone heard of this?
  • dontudaredontudare Member Posts: 12
    i'm having a similar problem - but it only started AFTER i had my brakes and rotor/axle replaced to the tune of over 1000.00. I never had the problem before. The tire dealer thinks it's the brake pads and that it will eventually go away - but it's been over a week and it feels unsafe.. any suggestions?
  • superbikevodosuperbikevodo Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I was having the same problem with my passat to. Same exact thing! I asked around and everyone told me to buy a new abs module ($1200.00). I studied the wiring diagram and found a way to fool the ECU in to thinking the abs module is working. But it would require you to un-plug your abs module and do a little re wiring. It should only take you about 45 minutes. but after you do, your car will work like new with only the abs module out, no abs and brake lights on, beeping, your tack working etc.... If you do, e-mail me at superbikevoodoo@yahoo.com with your e-mail address and I will e-mail you back some pictures and instructions of what I did.
  • dontudaredontudare Member Posts: 12
    Hi - I took it back and they put a different brake pad on -- but they said the reason my ABS was kicking on was that there was a small piece of metal on the sensor -- got it back and we are good to go!
  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12
    Hi,

    I own a 2003 VW Passat GLS sedan with 65k miles. Today my dealer said that the brake pads have worn down to 3 mm and needs to be replaced. Can this wait for another 5 k miles. Also what is the typical cost of this repair.I live in MN.

    Also will 3 rd party brake parts work fine or is it advisable to go for genuine VW parts.

    Any helpful comments will be greatly appreciated.
  • tbags4tbags4 Member Posts: 3
    Recently had the cv boot replaced and now notice when i apply the brakes it is rubbing/vibrating - feels like when the anti lock brakes are activated.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Hard to say if you can wait another 5K miles. Is this the first time the brakes were done (to give an idea of your wear pattern)? Front or rear brakes? Need more info.

    As to OEM VW parts - you certainly don't have to use them. I've used PBR Deluxe pads on thr front and rear with great success. I've used Ate rear rotors (bought on line - look for free shipping) for the rears and Zimmermann rotors (also bought on line) on the front with no problems.

    I like getcoolparts.com, but there are other online suppliers that are just as good. When comparing prices, check the total price including the shipping. Rotors are heavy!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Could be that the ABS sensor is not properly reinstalled.
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    Which are worn to 3mm, front or back? You have some chance of making 5000 miles, but wear isn't linear as a big part of it is displacing heat, and the thinner they get, the less they displace heat. That is to say, the thinner they get, the faster they wear.
    On my 2004 GLX, I found all OE fitment/mfr pads and rotors for about $225 plus shipping (didn't shop that much but this was online at autohausaz dot com. You don't have to use OE/OEM parts, but read all the previous comments about abs coming on and funny feel. All depends on what you expect, if you want to keep the car, but getting OE for $225 is pretty decent price for brakes that last 65k miles; why mess with that kind of success?
    ADS
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    anybody have the specs on both front and back minimum rotor thickness? It is probably stamped on the back of the rotors, but it appears I can measure them w/o removal with a little luck - at least the backs.
    Thx
    ADS
  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12
    Hi,

    Thanks for the reply. The rear brake pads are down to 65 k. Also I bought this car at 38 k miles and this is the first brake job at 65 k.

    Also can I ask how much you paid for labor.

    Thanks again.
  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12
    Hi,

    Thanks for the reply. The rear brake pads are down to 65 k. Also I bought this car at 38 k miles and this is the first brake job at 65 k after I bought the car.

    Also can I ask how much you paid for labor.

    Thanks again.
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    Hi, I haven't done my brakes yet, usually do my own labor. I'd check some local independent mechanics (not Midas or the tire chains if you can avoid them) but make sure to let them know if you're going to supply pads and rotors - some don't like that as they would normally make money on the parts too.
    Rears on most cars wear slower, but I just inspected mine - the rears on my 2004 glx appear to be wearing faster than the fronts; this can happen if they size the rears, which have much less weight to stop than the fronts, are sized significantly smaller than the front.
    good luck
    ADS
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Labor was "free" since it was a DIY job for me.

    Rears on the Passat, in my experience, wear about twice as fast as the front pads. I've seen supporting evidence of this elsewhere on the web, as well. I think it is a factor of size as well as hw the brakes are biased (based on what a VW tech has told me).
  • superherosuperhero Member Posts: 2
    I saw the post on the brake lights on the 2001 passat always being on when the headlights are turned on. I have the same problem except when i press the brakes when the headlights are not on, the brake lights dont work. did u ever find a solution to the problem?
  • tbags4tbags4 Member Posts: 3
    How would I check this or fix it - my fear is if I take it to a dealership I may end up paying more than needed....
  • k3vdxk3vdx Member Posts: 3
    hello , does anybody no what to do, iv just changes all the brake pads and one calliper, on my vw passat, and a STOP light comes on beeps 3 times and says BRAKE FAULT, then CHECK MANUAL, CAN ANYBODY HELP ME,
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    Did you bleed the brakes? Did you check the brake fluid level after changing the parts and bleeding the brakes?
    ADS
  • k3vdxk3vdx Member Posts: 3
    yes i did bleed the brakes but it feels like there is air still in the system, can that course it, regards
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    I don't know what causes the error you have, but if the fluid is full and they feel like there's air, you could try to bleed them again. Don't know VWs intimately enough to say for sure, but many cars the last 10-15 years don't do well if you bleed the brakes the old way, using the pedal. They really need to be bled via vacuum or pressure bleedere. What can happen in some cases you can push the plunger in the master cylinder past where it could normally go during use and affect the seal. If this is the case you'll need a new/rebuilt master cylinder. If you used a pressure or vacuum bleeder this should not be a problem.
    I don't know your skill so you could be better than me, but when you bled them, did you start at the farthest wheel (rear wheel, opposite side of where the master cylinder is, then other rear, then furthest front from master cylinder, then the remaining front wheel)? If not, you may well still have air in the system.
    Good luck.
  • k3vdxk3vdx Member Posts: 3
    thank you for your help, i will try that tomoz, regards
  • tbags4tbags4 Member Posts: 3
    turned out to be grease on the ab sensor - dealership corrected at no cost
  • hymehyme Member Posts: 1
    I heard some noise from the car (like metal) when I press the brake and the wheel is not in straight direction. When the car is not turning and I press the brake, there is no noise.
    It is a 2001 passat 4 motion. I just bought it and alread paid much to misfire :cry: . Hope some one can help me.
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    I would expect either your brake pads or a wheel bearing, either way you'll need to have it inspected to find out. These noises of metal are always something wearing that shouldn't, the longer you let it go, the more likely it is you'll have more trouble and it will cost more.
    Good luck.
    ADS
  • thefootycoachthefootycoach Member Posts: 1
    The brake fluid reservoir in my Passat is covered by black plastic bodywork that makes it impossible to see the minimum fluid level.

    I've considered removing the bodywork but it doesn't look like it comes off easily.

    Does anyone know how to get round this?
  • bryson1bryson1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! Don't know if you still have your 2002 Passat, but I still have mine. I've had exactly the same problem (twice, over two years). Dealer topped up my brake fluid levels, and the warning light went away. I now have a new problem - water in my brake fluid. Don't know if the problems are related, but I suspect they are. Water is getting into the brake master cylinder from the windshield wiper tray (meant to collect rain water from the wipers). This problem is described in more detail in this forum. Don't know if I've solved the problem yet - car is sitting in the driveway now with brake pedal frozen solid.
  • bryson1bryson1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Passat wagon, which has been mostly trouble-free for nearly 10 years. I have had the brake-warning light and alarm problem noted in this forum (solved by topping up the brake fluid - was there an underlying problem causing the brake fluid to leak out?). I'm now having another brake problem, which may be related.

    The brake pedal freezes at temperatures below freezing, and there is a considerable amount of water in the brake line. My mechanic diagnosed the problem as a water infiltration issue caused by water getting into the brake booster from the windshield wiper tray (this problem is described in more detail in this forum). We have cleaned out the windshield wiper tray, and opened up the drain hole, but are still getting the problem (water must still be getting into the brake booster).

    Any suggestions?
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    You may have something else going on, but three things:
    1. the brake fluid lid should easily seal it from water dripping or even flowing around it, although I think if the cowls (and look for drain holes) are clear, this shouldn't happen. If it has been covered in water, frozen, then maybe cracked somewhere, but even this seems unlikely, you'd lose pressure. So it seems really unlikely you're getting water in this way.
    2 Modern disc brake systems almost NEVER need fluid added unless something is wrong. The fluid goes down by exactly as much as the pads wear, and if you push the brake pistons back to get new (thicker) pads in, the fluid in the reservoir will rise back up between the min/max lines. This is just to illustrate how it works, because, that said, here is the most pertinent thing:
    3. Brake fluid is agroscopic, it picks up moisture. BMW and I think Audi/VW recommend changing fluid every two years. If you track your car (road coarse), you change it a couple times a year, maybe more, or the moisture will actually boil in the lines and vapor then makes for serious brake fade. Also, I've seen brake fluid with rust in it (a 97 ford ranger with drum rear brakes). Again, moisture in the lines. I had to replace a wheel cylinder in rear it was so bad it couldn't be honed out! However,
    4. If your pedal is frozen in pace (won't go up or down), you may be right with your diagnosis, but, something VERY odd is going on to allow that much water in there.

    Good luck
    ADS
  • barrosobarroso Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    I have a 89 vw passat, which already has ABS, the rear brakes do nothing. it hangs in front with the pedal, but not behind. The handbrake is also good. The pedal is very stiff, it costs to go down.
    The van has brake fluid, master cylinder and rear brake system are also good, but not lock.
    What could it be?
    I thank you most help.
    Thank you.
  • ads2ads2 Member Posts: 11
    edited February 2012
    Your wording is less than clear, you've mixed too many things together.
    For now, let's ignore ABS and the hand brake.
    You say front "hangs". do you mean the tires skid, or the brakes don't release and get hot, or ?
    The "pedal is stiff". I think you mean it is normal, it isn't soft so it doesn't go to the floor. Is that right or is it stiff such that it doesn't provide good stopping poer?
    So the rear is good, or not providing any braking?
    ------
    So now, what you may be saying is that everything works, but the front brakes are allowing the wheel to lock up and skid? Is that the key problem? Or are the rears not doing anything as your title indicates? I'm a bit confused.
    -------
    How many miles on the car, when were front brake pads and/or rotors replaced if ever? Same question for rear brakes.

    Do you have any error lights on the dash, like an ABS light?

    How long have you had the car?
    Are you positive it has ABS on both front and rear brakes? Some cars in the early days of ABS only had rear ABS (not sure about VW or your year).
    If you're new to the car AND this is the design, it wouldn't be abnormal under heavy braking for the front wheels to skid but not the rears - this is why I ask.

    Until you clarify these things some, the possible problems are too many to comment on.

    ADS
  • barrosobarroso Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i´m sorry but i don´t speak and write english fluent.
    My vw is a passat b3 89, with 353574 km, the front brakes have been changed 2 months ago, but the rear brakes i don´t know, i have the van almost 13 months and they are the same, the van have abs in front and rear, but only works in front.
    But don´t worry, because the problem is resolved.
    Connector plugs from the abs were having some sort of loose connection or dirt, and they work good now .
    i appreciate the help.
    Thank you.
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