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At 30k you start to notice a marked drop in power output, then you know you need wires.
have a 1992 Legacy sedan. I have had this problem twice now once about a month ago and just today. It acts like its starving for fule sputter and then dies. Wont start and when you take the fuellines off the filter no fuel is coming out while you crank. First time I replaced the filter and added dry gas. Also took the fule pump out of the tank and checked it . That was operating fine. I should mention when i took the feul line off the filter it was under a lot of pressure. Ok back to the problem . I put the pump back in and tried it by cranking the enigine with the fuel line off it pumped. out line back on and the car ran fine. Today it did the same thing. I pulled the lines took the pump out again and it ran fine after it was put back in. Any help on this woyld be appreciated.
Our car is a 1995 model.
Poster suggested intake leak or MAF, MAP as problem
1:May 28 2008- Turbo failure resulting in metal shavings getting into the engine. This was covered under warranty and was repaired in about 35 days.
2: March 31 2009- Loud knocking sound coming from engine, dealer determined the number 2 bearing had spun and wrecked the motor.This is covered under warranty repair and the engine scheduled for repair.(Car still at dealer)
3.April 25 2009- After waiting weeks for parts the engine was reassemble and put back in the vehice. I received a call from the dealership with not so good news. There was a casting defect on one of the heads and the cam was seized. Parts were ordered.(Car still at dealer)
May 14 2009- I received a call from the dealer that the car was road tested and finally ready for pick up!!!
May 15 2009-I picked up the car and drove home 20 miles. When I pulled in my driveway I heard a ticking sound coming from the left side of the engine and a burning smell. I called the dealership and they asked me to return with the vehicle. The car was put on the lift and it was determined that the turbo had failed and would need to be replaced. I was then put back into a loaner car and sent on my way. About an hour after returing home the dealership called me and stated "The turbo for my car is on national back order and there are none available in the usa" I will update this post more as events unfold.
At least the dealer seems to be trying.
Which one is it? Can anyone tell me which one is cylinder # 4?
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
Now I have another question. I've unbolted the 2 coil packs but they won't pull off. I also can't get the wire to unplug from it. It looks like it clips to the coil but I can't see it well enough to se how it unclips and I don't want to force it.
Does anyone have any ideas on how the clip works?
Thanks,
Joe
Some questions
1. Is an 05 with only 25k miles and two owners. I find that suspicious, do you?
2. Has been brought in three times with service from the 20k to 25k mile mark for Engine/powertrain computer/module check. Is this an indication of a problem? I saw this on carfax report
3. The battery was xchanged in 2007, rather early for an original 05 car?
4. The car whines on acceleration aside from the whoosh of the turbo. Is this an expected sound with this car. The automatic trans turbo was not loud like this manual i tried, although obviosuly I am revving much more.
5. Is there any reason to get one transmission over the other in thsi model?
Any opinions, answers to some or all is appreciated. Thanks.
2. Again, hard to say. Obviously, there was some sort of problem or concern, but without seeing the tickets, what is it? Different things, recurring, etc?
3. Subaru batteries are weak. Depending on the climate, I think replacing the stock battery after two years is about right. I would replace mine much sooner to hedge my bets against being stranded somewhere when it is really cold....
I cannot comment on concerns 4 and 5.
Any how, the electrical connections usually have a locking retainer you have to push in to slide the connection out. Try a light and maybe a mirror, too.
While I'm at it - here's a great purchase - I got a "headlight" that I can wear as a head band, so the light aims wherever I look, that was the BEST purchase I have made in terms of tools in a decade. I love it. Use it ALL the time. I strongly recommend one.
It's smaller than this but you get the idea:
That plus a mirror and you should see it.
Good luck.
1. Yes a little suspicious. Guy buys it, totals it, sells it to his brother in another state, good luck tracking the wreckage.
2. Again, yes, because combined with the low miles it means this car has not been healthy most of its life.
3. A little early, could be another symptom of a car parked due to not running properly.
4. Yikes. Diffs, trans gears, AWD, who knows. Run don't walk.
5. Manual is the perfect match for the turbo, IMHO.
I'd pass, seriously, this one has red flags all over it. The 2010s are coming out so people will be trading up, leaving plenty of good used ones for purchase.
That is interesting to hear. I was shocked when our 2005 Legacy battery failed after only 3 years. My Ford worked on the same battery for 9 years, when even the alternator failed at 5 years, and the Miata was on it's original gel cell per the markings for 13 years before it died (absolutely amazing if you ask me). I'm in San Jose so the batteries are never stressed by cold temperature extremes; when I was in MO I was generally happy to get 5 years on a battery.
The replacement battery I got had very nearly double the CCAs, and it was just much easier to start it after that.
Had you checked the fluid levels and added distilled water every year? I think nowadays batteries are often overlooked.
Yes, that is what I mean by "weak" batteries. The CCA rating on them is horrifically low. In extremely cold weather (colder than about -20F, which is common in Fairbanks), all presets on my radio, etc., would reset on my car due to the amount of juice required to start the car. It started, but the engine cranked slowly. In comparison, replacing that battery with with a 600 or higher CCA, the engine cranks quickly, without unduly stressing the battery.
Now, one can add a "battery blanket" in cold climates, which will heat the battery when the car is plugged in (other heaters such as an engine block heater, oil pan heater, and transmission heater are required equipment) and nurse the battery. However, doing so only makes the driver more vulnerable to problems when the time comes that the car could not be plugged in and must be cold-started. With a good battery, no such nursing is needed.
I have batteries, such as the one in my old '69 Chevy truck, that are on year ten and going strong in this climate. The stock Subaru battery just will not last that long due to the demand placed on the battery. I would much rather spend the $100 to replace it early on than find out just how long it will last, because the day it fails will inevitably be when I am at some remote location with temperatures in the "highly unpleasant" range.
However, if the GT is a wagon, 2005 is the last year of that option and the only year of the turbo-GT-wagon combo, so they are a unique breed.
2 owners gave up on it after such low miles, though? Even if it's not a scam, that's still a red flag.
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Sorry for the trouble. I went back out after posting a disconnected/reconnected all spark plug wires from both coil and plugs. One of the plugs wasn't completely engaged to the plug and must have not been firing under load. Phew....
Plan to use vehicle on limited basis ("dog" car)...
Recall having rear differential gasket replaced on my 99 at 120,000 so am wondering IF this one may already have gone through these repairs.
Selling price of car is $1800 and otherwise I think it seemed fine..no noises, rattles (aside from fan noise) power OK
Maybe I am asking "should I buy this car?"
I 've just heard that it's common for Subarus to need "bearings" and these seals after 100,000 and hope the previous owner may have already done this..(can't contact person but it is a one owner car in otherwise great conditon).
Thanks, Liz
Used to own a 99 Outback (bought it used w/48,000) it was fine until around 85,000 mi
and then started replacing many part: rear differential seal was something that went at 123,000 and I fixed it but got a new car (Honda).
Just wondering IF you think this is too risky or should I assume the previous owner (can't contact person but it was one owner car) probably has replaced many of these pricey items already?
As I said, I do not plan on using this as my main car...
Thanks,
Liz
Ithaca,NY
What matters now is how it was taken care of. Ask to see the service history. Check for the common issues - noisy wheel bearings, oil leaks at the gaskets and front and rear main seals.
The good thing is most problems you can see or hear, i.e. they should be fairly obvious if you look carefully.
Service history is important to know; otherwise, you really have no idea what you are going to get.
Subaru's, especially older ones, are famous for valve chatter. People (around here anyway) like to say they sound like sewing machines.
So currently I have a 1998 subaru legacy L thats overheating. All the fluid levels are good and the thermostat is new. Noticeable lack of power and some new mechanical noise coming from engine, doesn't sound like valve lash but just as consistant. Oil light keeps coming on and only cold air blows from the heater. I think possibly cracked head......any insight on this would be great.
If you act quickly, you might be able to save the engine. Run it like this and you will kill it quickly.
Subaru dealer said the fix for this was a reboot of the onboard computer and changed the AT trans. fluid.
Problem persisists - any thoughts?