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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

245

Comments

  • eldominicoeldominico Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys I have read all your post, had the same problem , this is my 100% working solution:
    possible problem #1 refill with cooling fluid, fill first from the top tube over the thermostat (the one with the Allen wrench on the cap), fill the fluid reservoir let it run fr five minutes refill both again if needed.
    Problem#2 Bad Hydraulic fan:
    remove fan from car, replace with a high speed fan, I used a 1991 ford topaz electric fan with an ice cube 40 amp relay connected to an ignition fuse(eat dirt Lincoln engineering) install a connecting tube between the two hydraulic fan pump lines
    Problem #3 Bad Hydraulic fan pump:
    same steps as problem #2 but remove hydraulic pump and replace lower pulley with an alternator pulley, replace serpentine belt with a 114 inch belt (smaller than stock)
    it works for me and best of all runs a few degrees cooler than stock
  • corneliusmcorneliusm Member Posts: 2
    I want to replace my hydraulic system with an electric. Can you tell me how its done. [email protected]

    (2000 lincoln LS) Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric. [email protected]
  • corneliusmcorneliusm Member Posts: 2
    200 Lincoln LS. Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric fan. I can't see to figure out exactly whats wrong with me cool system.
  • rpage100rpage100 Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem and want to resolve it the same way you did. I have see many after market electric cooling fans for the ls and wonder if you knew the best on that would work. Also I need detailed instructions on how to replace and wire up the electric fan. Please help I am tired of constantly having to worry about the car not running right and it is a very nice car and would like to keep it if possible
  • wallyrswallyrs Member Posts: 1
    Have 2001 Lincoln LS I'm having the same problem. After bleeding & filling the reservoir I have change the reservoir once before this is my second. Had a crack on the bottom of the tank. Is there something I'm missing. I think when I turn on the A/C it doesn't hold the Pressure and it cracks. need help send me email

    [email protected]
  • jaime007jaime007 Member Posts: 4
    I have a Lincoln ls v6 2001 with 115000 miles. Heres whats going on with my car.

    The check engine light is on.
    the air bag light lights up flashes a couple of times and then stays on.
    Then the oil light comes up when the car is on the regular temperature, whenever im slowing down the oil light comes up, then when i accelerate it goes away.

    Then it has been overheating sometimes. last sunday overheated, week before that too, then today tuesday did it again. On sunday i left it cooling for a couple of hours then it was normal, the fans work but when it overheates the fans arent working.

    Could this all be because of the oil pressure that is too low
    ' if so how can i fix it? any tips on this would be appreciate it
    Thanks
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Is the check engine light flashing, or solid? You've got a v-6? Pull the OBD code.

    The air bag light is likely a bad clock spring (behind the steering wheel). When you unplug a component of the air bag system, it trips the light to tell you to recalibrate it, which is a simple process done with a computer at the dealer (about $90). But if you haven't unplugged any component, it is likely a worn connection in the clock spring. The clock spring powers up everything in your steering wheel, including your air bag, while still enabling you to turn the wheel round and round (if they just rans wires, the wires would twist and break). If there is a bad connection, its the equivalent of unplugging the steering wheel air bag every time you turn the vehicle. So if you just get the system recalibrated, it'll trip the light again leaving the dealer's lot. There is no code to identify this problem. Anything else not working on your steering wheel (cruise control? radio control? horn?)? If so, it's defintiely the clock spring. They're about $80 and you need a wheel puller, but it's a simple job. Ford/Lincoln/Mercuries are famous for weak clock springs.

    See my prior post regarding my experience with the overheating. The degas bottle (overflow tank) has a design flaw that cause a crack along a seam, which lets air into the system and causes antifreeze to leak out at higher RPMS (when you're on the highway and won't notice). Air acts as a blockage and causes overheating. Others have cursed the hydraulic fans as constantly failing/inconsistent, and replaced them with electric ones. I haven't had that issue. A new degas bottle and a system fill/air purge and I've been fine for another 20k so far. The degas bottle is pulled through the driver's side wheel well (remove the wheel and wheelwell cover). Check it for visible signs of cracking. If not, you've likely got the fan problem.

    The oil issue-potentially very serious. Assuming you're sure your oil is full, the correct viscosity and fresh, I'd replace the oil pressure switch (likely near the oil filter housing) first. It's relatively cheap and always a good one to keep fresh. If the problem recurs, your oil pump could be failing. That could increase friction and contribute to an overheating problem, but with a failing oil pump, overheating would be the least of your worries.
  • jaime007jaime007 Member Posts: 4
    yeah the check engine light is solid, which could be a sensor or anything, im pulling the code later today or tomorrow.

    The problem i have with the fan is that it stops working all of the sudden, and i cant get it to start, even with the a/c on, but then how come sometimes i turn on my car and the stupid fan is working right? Everytime the car randomly decides to overheat i check the fan and the fan has stopped.

    Well i took it to a mechanic and he had told me that the oil presure was low, but he didnt do any computer test or anything, and the guy before that one told me a need the whole cooling system new ( which he was wrong since my cooling system works but something is messing with the reaction of it)

    for the oil, i used a bottle of Lucas today which helps with the lubrication of the oil and see if it goes away. I will be getting it check by another person see what they say.
  • jaime007jaime007 Member Posts: 4
    well today unpluged the fan , theres a connection down there hiding by the pump and put it back and magically the fans are working perfectly and even the oil light disappeared. For now its working perfectly idk if maybe the connection there was dirty or something
  • dclark24dclark24 Member Posts: 1
    For a few months now, I've had an issue with the car overheating. I've never seen smoke or anything, but every now and again, the temp gauge will go to "H". Normally, if I set it on cruise control, it'll eventually go back down. In the event I'm in stop-and-go traffic, it will reduce engine pressure. At that time, I'll pull over, turn the car off for a few minutes, then restart. It'll be fine for the rest of the trip. I finally had it hooked up to the code reader and got the following codes - P0053 (Heat & Oxygen Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0153 (Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1), P1299 (Society of Automotive Engineers Engine Over Temp Condition), and P1295 (Oxygen Sensor Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1). I was told I needed to replace the two oxygen sensors up front.

    So, when I took my vehicle to Pep Boys for brake service today, I told them I also wanted the sensors replaced, if they had them in stock. They ran the diagnostic and now the guy is telling me that CO2 was detected in the cooling system and I need to have my head gaskets replaced. He then said it would be upwards of $2500 to fix and referred me to the Lincoln dealer. Is this accurate?
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Cool. Those fans are hydraulic. Maybe a bad connection was keeping the fan from working and signaling low hyradulic fluid, which in turn might tripping the oil light you're seeing??? I don't know, but if it ain't broke now, don't fix it. Good luck.
  • jaime007jaime007 Member Posts: 4
    if i were you i would get another opinion, i had my car looked by 2 people who none of them told me anything related to my problem, if u kno someone who knows a mechanic who they can trust
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    It's possibly, but not likely. You'd need a narrow breach in the head gasket between a coolant journal and a cylinder, without it affecting nearby oil journals or anything else. A blown head gasket is rarely so particular or localized, meaning you'd find antifreeze in your oil too (it'd look milky/filmy) or antifreeze would leak from the head gasket onto the ground. Plus, if there was such a breach, you'd certainly be burning coolant (white smooke and/or a sweet smell/taste at the exhaust) in the cylinder. It's not a one way process-if there is a breach between an anti-freeze journal and a cylinder, not only would CO2 get into the antifreeze upon cylinder fire, but antifreeze would also be sucked into the cylinder on the compression stroke, and then burn upon ignition. You'd lose horsepower. You'd likely have a flashing p300 code (cylinder misfire) as the anti-freeze douses the igntiion process. Are you losing coolant?

    I'll tell you what I tell everyone-remove the inner (driver's) fenderwall and remove the degas bottle. Check the seams for signs of cracking. If it's cracked, replace it and that will likely solve all of your problems. When I say that air gets into the system when the degas bottle is cracked, its the air that's under your hood, which contains CO2.

    And it's also possible that Pep Boys is lying to you. Find a mechanic you know and trust. That's how I got my Lincoln-a friend owned it and brought it to a stranger's shop for an overheating issue. The mechanic said the the heads were blown and offered him $500 for the car, which was MINT otherwise and fully loaded. I had expressed interest in the car so he offered it to me for $500. Then I drained the oil (clean), read the blogs and found the degas bottle was cracked. I replaced it and its been running like a top for 20k now. The mechanic was trying to screw my buddy. And yes, I made it up to him...
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Pretty sure they changed to electric fans starting with the 03 models.
  • henryrufus1henryrufus1 Member Posts: 1
    hi I am haveing the same problem could u tell me exactaly how you fixed this problem and what kind of jeep you got the fan off of to work with this vehicle.

    thank you, Rufus Henry
  • lanz127lanz127 Member Posts: 1
    @Happster.

    You seem knowledgeable. I have an overheating problem maybe you can help with. It overheats suddenly when the car has been sitting and I turn it on. It goes to the top of the thermostat guage and the thermo light comes on. I then shut her down and she stays just at the halfway mark on the thermo guage.

    When I looked at the car it seems as if antifreeze dripped or exploded from the t-joint on the upper radiator hose assembly on to the heater valve. It is coming from the small hose at the bottom of the t-joint. I pulled all the hoses and they are fine with no cracks I also checked the t-joint on the upper radiator hoses to see if it was clogged or cracked and it is not. The antifreeze leak seems to be localized to that one hose. Something is cause the antifreeze to spew out of the hose and the car to over heat.

    Any help?
    Any advice.
  • lsingalsinga Member Posts: 2
    Did anyone anywhere respond to your problem? We have a 2002 LS and are switching to the electric fan but we have a leak in the HFC pump so we cannot just loop the intake and out hoses. We want to bypass the pump also and need info on the belt routing. We were trying to replace the pump pulley with an idler or?????? Please let me know if you found help somewhere.
  • lsingalsinga Member Posts: 2
    Could you please explain further on Problem #3? We have a 2002 LS V6 and are putting in the electric fan but the pump has a leak so we must remove it and need to run the belt in same general location. If you have pictures that would be great but any explanation on this side of the belt problem would be great.
  • miamidavemiamidave Member Posts: 1
    Hows your problem doing now?
    Still gone?
    I am having the occasional overheating problem and trying to figure it out.
    Thanks
  • darl444darl444 Member Posts: 5
    Did you ever resolve the issue with the cooling fan. My 2000 Lincoln LS is doing the same. It cools fine for many miles, the sort of randomly decides to overheat. Pull the connector off the Cylinder Head Temp sensor, the fan will go to high and cool the engine. I changed the CHTS, but it still does the same thing. Do you know if ther there is a cooling fan control module separate from the fan?
  • darl444darl444 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Miamidave

    Doesn't look like jaime007 ever replied. Did you resolve the overheating on your Lincoln LS?
  • vinnygibsvinnygibs Member Posts: 2
    It had nothing to do with the fan at all. There is an engine fill port underneath the plastic ls cover. The gasket on that fill port went bad and was allowing air into the system drylocking it. The gasket was about 10 bucks you will also need an Alan key to remove the cap. good luck
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    edited June 2011
    I've read posts from otherswith yourissue where they replace the hydraulic fan with an electric one with good results. My issue was with the famous cracked degas bottle letting coolant out and air in at high rpms, making it tough to find the leak. And its been great since.
  • lcostellolcostello Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to thank all of you for solving my overheating problem. I purchased a one owner 2000 Lincoln LS recently and the other day it overheated during initial start-up (with the air one). I changed the thermostat and all was better for the next 2 weeks then I noticed the temp slowly climbing again. I found this site a few days ago and checked my DEGAS bottle last night and after a few cycles found a small drip coming from the seam. I'm pretty sure this is where the cooling system is sucking air and caused the temp sensor to go up so quickly. I ordered a new Dorman Degas bottle last night for $62 which I plan to replace when it arrives.
    Thanks again for having this Forum. You saved me a pricy dealer visit and many headaches.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    That has to be your issue. Glad to help!
  • darl444darl444 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info on the Degas bottle. I couldn't find any problems with it so have not replaced it. Do you know where the cooling fan controller is located? The fan is hydraulic, and rotates freely, at idle it operates at normal, or low speed, but does not go to a higher speed has the temperature starts to increase with increased engine RPM. But I can bring the operating temperature back to normal by just adjusting the cabin heater fan to high and desired temp to max with the engine at 2000 RPM (in park and A/C off).

    I'm also experiencing a problem now with the A/C compressor clutch. After about 10 minutes of normal operation, the clutch will cycle, but not fully engage, all the while making a squealing noise.

    Can the clutch be replaced without taking the compressor out?
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Sounds like an air pocket obstruction. Note that the crack in the degas bottle occurs on a seam and is tough to see. I'd try a pressure test by pinching or blocking the outlet and overflow lines. Not sure where the controller is. Never had that problem but many others have and wired in an electric fan with success. Also not sure about the clutch, but my guess would be that it is all external to the compressor and can be replaced without depressurizing the system or removing it. Good luck!
  • dezuzdezuz Member Posts: 1
    ok as everyone else i have an over heating issue with my LS..i've replaced the de-gass bottle, thermostat housing, and thermostat .. bled the air and see no leaks...yet once i get to operating temp it seems to over heat causing the hydralic fans to kick on which at low speeds is quiet but noticeable and at driving speeds it gets louder...any suggestions cause i am stumped...no check engine light either btw ...
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    I've heard of a lot of people having trouble with the hydraulic fans and many have resolved the issue by wiring in an electric one.
  • kidsixxx25kidsixxx25 Member Posts: 2
    What kind of electric fan should I use in my 2000 ls V6??? and how many cfm is needed??? some one please help
  • kidsixxx25kidsixxx25 Member Posts: 2
    WHAT kind of electric fan is recomended for this junker??? And how many cfm should it be???
    I put a little 12" pusher with 880 cfm on the condeser and it keeps the temp in the middle but if in traffic long and its hot temp starts to climb and i notice the coolant backing up out of the bottle ,,, SOMEONE please help!!!!
  • lemonlslemonls Member Posts: 1
    Hi: im in florida, but just purchased a lincoln ls from N.Virgina. it keep on overheating i changed radiator, temperature sender switch, thermostat and housing it is still overheating. what should i do?????
  • christinahchristinah Member Posts: 3
    Hello I was wondering if someone can help me I have a 2001 Lincoln Ls that has over heated i have replaced the water pump, and the thermostat and it seems to continue to over heat and the antifreeze wont stay in it keep sleaking out.

    Does anyone know what it might be I need to get this fixed before my son starts school please help.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Check my past posts about the degas bottle issues.
  • cuseorangecuseorange Member Posts: 1
    hate to burst your bubble, but my son has a 2000 lincoln ls v8 and has battled this issue for over 2 years. It was overheating very randomly for a long time, but now it is really bad so we figure it is a blown head gasket. We replaced the thermostat twice which didnt solve it. We also thought the overflow resevoir was the problem and replaced it. That helped for a short period of time and then it started getting worse and worse. The air conditioner blows hot heat randomly also. Just dont want you to get too excited about thinking it is fixed. sorry.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    If his degas bottle was cracked, that was his issue. He should by all means be excited. As for you, it sounds like the fan issues so many are having. Or there is an air obstruction in the system. They're a [non-permissible content removed] to bleed. A head gasket wouldn't cause part-time problems.
  • nickrlnickrl Member Posts: 9
    I posted this in another forum as well but it seemed dead as this on e is alive and kicking so sorry mods...I am having a overheating issue as well. Heres the trip with mine, In the past 18 months my 02 v8 has had the hydraulic fan replaced, the pump replaced, thermostat changed last week, no airlock or any of that fun stuff. mechanic said theres no leaks (im not sure if he pulled the degas bottle to check for crack but am taking his word for it), the cap seems to be good- nice hissing sound if i try to remove it. have had the radiator flushed and filled by a mechanic. ac is blowing hot air (doubt that has anything to do with it... just adding to the complaint box). It has overheated on me four times in the past two weeks. It only seems to do it on my third consecutive time getting into the car, ex. drove 9 miles to autozone was in there 20 mins. drove 2miles to oriellys was in there 10 minutes, then drove back home with it starting to heat up. when the temp starts to rise i hear a whining sound like theres a supercharger on the car. The mechanic has had the car twice now and cant find anything wrong with the car. When the car is overheating the fan isnt coming on but if i let the car sit for a while everything is fine. Unlike other people I cant just shut the car off and re start it with the guage going back to normal. no check engine light comes on when this happens- so are there codes being stored? Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    The crack in the degas bottle doesn't necessarily lead to leaking antifreeze, if it's high on the bottle, but will allow air to get into the system as the car cools and the system is trying to pull the antifreeze from the degas bottle. But it sounds more like you're having the issue with the hydraulic fan. Not an expert on that issue, thankfully (knock on wood) but what I've read is that the type of fan (or whatever sending unit kicks it on) is the issue. Did you replace it with another hydraulic fan? If so, I suggest that you look into wiring in an electric one in. Many people on these blogs have done it with success. I think they convert it to electric using a fan and wiring harness from a prior or subsequent year. They could tell you best...just run a search with the right terms and you'll find the strongs. Good luck!
  • nickrlnickrl Member Posts: 9
    Thank you for replying! If there was a crack in the degas bottle would it cause the fan to randomly not work (cuz that is whats happening when its overheating)?
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Doubtful. It's got to be the fan. They suck. It's a miracle I haven't had that issue!
  • nickrlnickrl Member Posts: 9
    again thank you... your the man for answering everyone and being helpful... my hcf motor is still under warranty i just found out so into the dealership she goes!!
  • kracker361kracker361 Member Posts: 3
    For everyone that is having overheating problems here it is: first what you need to do is when it is overheating pull over(don't shut-off engine) and check if the fan is blowing air not just a little but a lot. If you don't feel air blowing the fan is not engaging on high. There is an actuator on these hydraulic cooling fan systems. The acuator is on the back of the pump on the passenger side. The acuator will tell the pump how much fluid to let go and make the fan spin at low, mid, or high. Now if the fan is blowing then you have air in the cooling system. If there is air in the cooling system the coolant in the degas bottle will act like it is boiling. You have to follow the procedure to bleed the air out but if the degas bottle is cracked, the cap is no good or if any hose are leaking or the plastic T on the upper hose is cracked it will keep getting air back in. Ok, now with the engine off try to spin the fan by hand. If it does the fan motor should be working. Also, if the hydraulic hose from the fan motor was removed to take the water pump off you may have got air in the hydraulic fan system causing the fan to not spin properly. Now you have to get the air out of the hydraulic system. So, if you have changed water pumps, thermostats, degas bottles and no luck you have air in the system(both) and if the fan is not working more likely it is the acuator. It may be the hydraulic pump or fan motor. I'm not a certified mechanic but I've been working on cars since I was 16 about half my life now and I also have 2001 Lincoln Ls. Let me know if what I said helped or you need me to explain further on one of the subjects more.
  • christinahchristinah Member Posts: 3
    Hi thanks for the advice but I was wondering how do I bleed the hydraulic pump? My dad is actually coming over to do thistomorrow and i really hope it works out for me if you can get back to me asap on how or were i find out.

    Thanks Christina
  • kracker361kracker361 Member Posts: 3
    christina, i'm currently having that issue right now. I called the dealership and they can take it out for like 90 bucks. I also spoke to a mechanic and he said people have got another cap drilled a hole on top tapped it and put some kind of valve you can open after the car runs for a few minutes. This suppose to let the air out. I asked him how to they do it and he didn't want to tell me. They probably have a machine or something. I have tried a few other things that made it work but it stopped working again. I disconnected the return, plugged the nipple to the bottom of the reservoir and put the hose in a empty trans. fluid bottle. I then asked someone to turn the car on and watch the fluid go down in the reservoir(not too low and only a few sec.) then turn the car off and refilled the reservoir.Repeated about 5-6 times. This helped but just for a little while. Its probably is something else. Going to take the acuator off and test the resistance to see if it is working like it should before i buy one. If I can't get it working again, I'm just converting it to electric. Wanted to keep it the way it was.
  • patgarrettpatgarrett Member Posts: 1
    The only time it should get hot is idling or stopped. When you are moving at high speed on the highway the airflow through the radiator is enough to cool the engine. The electric fan will only kick in at low speeds or stopped for any lenght of time.
    My problem is the LS V8 I have is overheating all the time. Although the engine is getting hot, the hoses are not getting hot. This makes me believe its either the thermostat or water pump. The fan seems to be working really fast with lots of airflow, but the engine is still overheating
    It was fine untill yesterday afternoon, and now it overheats whenever I start it.
    Any suggestions gladly accepted
  • jiminy2jiminy2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi read your post on the actuator is there a way to test this? And is this what the part is referred to at the store or is there a part #? My fan is not increasing speed as it heats up hoping it's this. Thanks so much for your directions.
  • kracker361kracker361 Member Posts: 3
    Jiminy2, don't know how many ohms it should put out with a meter but if you find out let me know. The part # XW4Z3783CA. Easy to replace. Drain fluid from reservoir or suction out. Remove reservoir and hoses out of the way. Then you see wiring coming from back of pump that is the actuator. Use a torque think a T-40 to remove actuator. Fluid will come out. Replace put back together.
  • jiminy2jiminy2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. Did it work on your car?
  • christinahchristinah Member Posts: 3
    Please does anyone know how to bleed the hydraulic pump?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Pretty sure you just move the steering wheel back and forth.
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