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Chevy Camaro Maintenance and Repair

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  • i am changing a 3 speed auto to a 4 speed standard in a 68 camaro. i was wondering what parts i need to buy to make this a succesful switch
  • www.muscle-factory.com sells a complete conversion kit for $269 bucks. (not including the transmission, shifter, bell housing and starter of course).
  • I have a 99 Camaro, 6 cylinder, and the radiator needs to be replaced. I'm thinking about doing it myself. Any tips/suggestions?
  • Should pretty much be a nut and bolt job. Might be good to pick up a workshop manual from library or eBay or Amazon, just in case there's some little snag in there. Things to pay attention to are:

    1. Putting back the right kind of anti-freeze
    2. Bleeding the system properly of air
    3. Replacing other parts that are now easy to get at. (belts, hoses, thermostat, water pump?)

    4. Capturing spilled fluids, like automatic transmission fluid if your car is automatic. (cooler lines from trans to radiator).

    Visiting Host, just dropping in :shades:
  • I have a 1997 camaro and the drivers side door handle will not open the door. How do I replace or fix the problem so I don't have to keep climbing through the passenger side? It has manual locks and windows so hopefully this can be an easy fix.
    Any help will be appreciated, thanks to all and Happy Thanksgiving
  • I just bought a 94 camaro and i have been having trouble starting it, it usually takes 5-10 minutes to start. it turns over just fine but it wont fire. I just put new plugs in it. anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be?

    thanks,Tim
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,828
    ignition problems on the v8 fourth-gens seem to always relate to either MAF or Opti-spark. disconnecting the maf is one possible test. there may have been a few years/engines that were without-MAF too, fwiw.
    i am not aware of a good way to test the optispark without swapping it.

    for a starting problem, avoid anything but lowest recommended octane gas -
    premium gas makes it harder to start.

    for the door issue like that, probly ya gotta take off the inner door panel and maybe see what's disconnected/broken ? personally i am unable to remove a panel without significant unintended entropy resulting, but hopefully you will do better.
  • either by the headlight switch or on the right side of the steering column
  • sounds like you might be experiencing gm's vats system. if you have another ignition key try that one for awhile. if crank but no start doen't return the resistor of the first key has intermittent problem.
  • if your experiencing intermittent extended crank time try this little trick.
    if your a/c relay is the same as the fuel pump relay swap them. if your extended crank time goes away. replace the relay that you put in the a/c slot. gm has a fail safe system like if you are low on oil it won't start up right away. it also limits off the fuel pump. the reason it cranks so long is because it takes a moment for the oil sender to see oil pressure. when it does see oil pressure the relay opens then the motor wil start.
  • check the fuel pump relay. swap it with another relay on the panel. make sure they are the same numbers. if your problem goes away replace the relay you swaped over to the a/c. if it was a problem with the opti-spark a scanner would pick it up.
  • mike7295mike7295 Posts: 1
    I have a z28 that a friend gave to me as a gift last year. It has 130,000, in great shape, never had a problem until now. Last week I was driving about 1 mile and the car shut off. I cranked it but it wouldn't start. So I waited a few minutes. Then I turned the key, the car started, I got about 500 feet and it stopped again. My friend mechanic told me it needed a fuel pump, so i told him go ahead. After that the car has the 41 plus pounds of presure, which is right on, but the car has the same problem. I can drive it 1 mile, and it will shut off, or I can drive it 10 miles, and it will stop running. Today I let idle for 20 minutes, not prolem. Is there any one with the same problem that can help, I want to drive my car, but I just don't trust how far I can go.
  • I have trouble with the car, it will idle but when I rev the motor it dies out. I changed the fuel filter and the mass air flow sensor. It is still doing the same thing
  • hey mike did you ever get the car running right, I am having the same problem
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,828
    I recommend to consider swapping the optispark - they weren't so reliable for those ~1995 cars as I recall.
  • i failed the hydro carbon portion of the city emisions inspection yesterday with hydro carbons at 541 ppm and it needs to be 220 ppm or less , i replaced plugs , wires , cap and rotor , pcv valve and changed the oil , took it in for a retest this morning and failed agian with a 340ppm , so i replaced the egr valve , checked for error codes , and replaced a dry rotted vacum line , took it back in and it went back up to a 540, what is going on with this car , it only has 102,000 miles and it passed last year with flying colors, also why would the hydro carbon level go back up? and what do i need to do to get it down to passing levels? is the catylitic coverter possibly bad?
  • robb1388robb1388 Posts: 1
    My 1995 Z28's T-top lever(s) (both sides) have become stiff. I'm worried about breaking something when placing them on or removing them from the car. What's the best lubricant to use to loosen things up without causing damage? Would GUNK Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil be right for the job?
  • charlie74charlie74 Posts: 1
    I own an '86 Camaro and recently tarted to have a problem with the door locks. Initially, the drivers side door opened normally but when I went to shut it,the latch mechanism (a sort of "U" shaped rotating part) would not turn to engage the pin (i.e. let the open "U" over the pin) on the door frame...so the latch just bangs against the pin. Next, I violated my usual principle of "if it aint broke.... etc", I played with the passenger door and, to my dismay, managed to rotate the "U" part of the latch backward so that now it also is stuck in a position where that door also won't shut. If anyone (even another GM model owner) has any ideas how to free up this mechanism - preferably w/o disassembling the door trim - I would be eternally grateful.
  • Hi all,

    Just bought a 1992 Camaro RS 3.1 v6, and am going to have to some serious work to it. Thought I'd join the forum for tips and advice as I go....i'm the purest of definitions of "backyard mechanic" so any and all advice is welcome.

    Question 1 for the day: The car was apparently in an accident at some time, and the front end is shifted approx 3/4 of and inch to the right. What's the best way to replace / repair this. can it even be straightened out? My understanding of the build is with the uni-body frame, I'm probably just looking at fender supports. (The engine and components except for the radiator appear perfectly in line, right where they should be....) Suggestions?!?
  • Well first thing you should do is go on an alignment machine and see if the car can even be made to go in a straight line. If the entire body is "crabbed" and alignment isn't possible, just get rid of the car.

    If the car can be aligned, then your problems are strictly sheet metal, and strange as it sounds, some basic wrench work and a short handled 3 lb sledge hammer will do the job---presuming you know better as to not start hammering on plastic or thin metal bracing, but rather only on main, hidden, structural supports such as bumper braces or radiator sub-framing. Another alternative is to rent a portable hydraulic tool that has attachments for bending, pushing, etc. this way and that, and is able to get into small spaces.
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