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Chevy Camaro Maintenance and Repair

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  • check the fuel pump relay. swap it with another relay on the panel. make sure they are the same numbers. if your problem goes away replace the relay you swaped over to the a/c. if it was a problem with the opti-spark a scanner would pick it up.
  • mike7295mike7295 Posts: 1
    I have a z28 that a friend gave to me as a gift last year. It has 130,000, in great shape, never had a problem until now. Last week I was driving about 1 mile and the car shut off. I cranked it but it wouldn't start. So I waited a few minutes. Then I turned the key, the car started, I got about 500 feet and it stopped again. My friend mechanic told me it needed a fuel pump, so i told him go ahead. After that the car has the 41 plus pounds of presure, which is right on, but the car has the same problem. I can drive it 1 mile, and it will shut off, or I can drive it 10 miles, and it will stop running. Today I let idle for 20 minutes, not prolem. Is there any one with the same problem that can help, I want to drive my car, but I just don't trust how far I can go.
  • I have trouble with the car, it will idle but when I rev the motor it dies out. I changed the fuel filter and the mass air flow sensor. It is still doing the same thing
  • hey mike did you ever get the car running right, I am having the same problem
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,937
    I recommend to consider swapping the optispark - they weren't so reliable for those ~1995 cars as I recall.
  • i failed the hydro carbon portion of the city emisions inspection yesterday with hydro carbons at 541 ppm and it needs to be 220 ppm or less , i replaced plugs , wires , cap and rotor , pcv valve and changed the oil , took it in for a retest this morning and failed agian with a 340ppm , so i replaced the egr valve , checked for error codes , and replaced a dry rotted vacum line , took it back in and it went back up to a 540, what is going on with this car , it only has 102,000 miles and it passed last year with flying colors, also why would the hydro carbon level go back up? and what do i need to do to get it down to passing levels? is the catylitic coverter possibly bad?
  • robb1388robb1388 Posts: 1
    My 1995 Z28's T-top lever(s) (both sides) have become stiff. I'm worried about breaking something when placing them on or removing them from the car. What's the best lubricant to use to loosen things up without causing damage? Would GUNK Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil be right for the job?
  • charlie74charlie74 Posts: 1
    I own an '86 Camaro and recently tarted to have a problem with the door locks. Initially, the drivers side door opened normally but when I went to shut it,the latch mechanism (a sort of "U" shaped rotating part) would not turn to engage the pin (i.e. let the open "U" over the pin) on the door frame...so the latch just bangs against the pin. Next, I violated my usual principle of "if it aint broke.... etc", I played with the passenger door and, to my dismay, managed to rotate the "U" part of the latch backward so that now it also is stuck in a position where that door also won't shut. If anyone (even another GM model owner) has any ideas how to free up this mechanism - preferably w/o disassembling the door trim - I would be eternally grateful.
  • Hi all,

    Just bought a 1992 Camaro RS 3.1 v6, and am going to have to some serious work to it. Thought I'd join the forum for tips and advice as I go....i'm the purest of definitions of "backyard mechanic" so any and all advice is welcome.

    Question 1 for the day: The car was apparently in an accident at some time, and the front end is shifted approx 3/4 of and inch to the right. What's the best way to replace / repair this. can it even be straightened out? My understanding of the build is with the uni-body frame, I'm probably just looking at fender supports. (The engine and components except for the radiator appear perfectly in line, right where they should be....) Suggestions?!?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    Well first thing you should do is go on an alignment machine and see if the car can even be made to go in a straight line. If the entire body is "crabbed" and alignment isn't possible, just get rid of the car.

    If the car can be aligned, then your problems are strictly sheet metal, and strange as it sounds, some basic wrench work and a short handled 3 lb sledge hammer will do the job---presuming you know better as to not start hammering on plastic or thin metal bracing, but rather only on main, hidden, structural supports such as bumper braces or radiator sub-framing. Another alternative is to rent a portable hydraulic tool that has attachments for bending, pushing, etc. this way and that, and is able to get into small spaces.

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  • Hey,

    Thanks for the info! Now I'm a bit nervous, but still optimistic. As best as I can by eyeballing it, the underframe itself appears to be in a straight line, so I'm hoping it's as you said, sheet metal, a hammer, and a few new parts should do the trick. I'd hate to think that I paid for something that I'm just going to have to get rid of. I'm taking it to the shop to get an alignment this week, so I'll post and let you know the outcome.....

    Thanks for replying! I think I'm going to like it here!

    Sean
  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    The car drove fine after I changed the waterpump and thermostat and the holes drove for 2 days and on the third day it started to heat up so I pulled over and let the water out waited 5 mins and then drove the car home and it stayed at 180 degrees the normal temp is between 180 and 210 can anyone tell me what to do can it be the radiator need a good clean out :confuse:
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,902
    A reporter is looking to speak to a recent buyer or a current shopper of a Chevy Camaro, Dodge Challenger Ford Mustang or Nissan 370Z . Please send your daytime phone number to ctalati@edmunds.com by Tuesday, November 10, 2009.

    Thanks,
    Chintan
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

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  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    can some one tell me where does the tps go on a 99 camaro 3.8l engine :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    The TPS is mounted to the front of the throttle body.

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  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    CAN SOME ONE TELL ME IF THIS TYPE OF CAR COMES WITH OR WITHOUT FIRM ON THE RACKING PINION AND HOW CAN YOU TELL :(
  • Ok here's where we are at. No fuel pump signal to the relay while starting. 10.8v between the orange and gray wires on the FP relay connector when ignition switch is in the on or off position but no start. If I jump gray wire at connector with known good 12v supply the FP runs and car starts. When I measure volts between Orange and gray wire with the car running I get 12v. Disconnected the OPSU, 3 wire, red,yellow,black, and tried to start. Nothing. Jumped and measured voltage at red and black wires at OPSU (2.4v) and nothing. Relay is good. FP fuse is good. Where should I look next? Seems like I am not getting a signal to prime the FP.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,937
    10.8V sounds way too low and your testing agrees with that.
    Shouldn't it be 12V in that case?
    And with engine running, shouldn't it be about 13.8V ?
    If you agree voltage is too low, maybe consider why. Swap in a new battery to see if problem disappears?
    Also there could be voltage drop across a corroded wire. No idea if recent camaros are susceptibles, but 3rd-gens could experience corrosion of the wire that goes from battery positive post to starter/solenoid. if there is excessive voltage drop across that wire or on the battery-post or starter-solenoid-post, I understand that will cause the entire electrical system of the car to see reduced voltage at startup-time. If this is what's happening, running a parallel wire (one jumper cable) from battery positive post to starter positive post may be a workaround. careful with that - you'll be handling a "hot" lead in that case.
  • my 1995 z28 has been acting weird for a month now in the mornings i start it and let it warm up be for work for about ten minutes drive it about 4 miles to the store runs great shut it off after about 5 minutes try to start again but wont start after a couple of tries it finaly cranks but is missing very bad and smoking have to rev it up just to keep it running after a few minutes of doing this it clears up, some times it does it while driving thought it might be something in the gas put slick 50 injector cleaner in it, it ran great for 1 day then started doing it again,never had this happen before,please help
  • member47member47 Posts: 6
    Anyone know where I can find the ECU/ECM connector plugs for a 2002 Camaro?
  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    You can go to this websites i found autocomputersystems.com and you can also go to www.sp-ecu.com let me know if this helps you in any way good luck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    You mean the diagnostic port to read the ECM, or the location of the ECM itself?

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  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    I had my engine rebuilt it worked good for 2 days but for some reason the oil pump works for a little bit but then it goes low on pressure i had my mechanic put a another one and it is still doing the same thing can some one help me to figure this problem. The car drives fine it just that it looses pressure in the oil tank. It starts at 60 and then it goes to 20 after a good drive. :cry:
  • marvin6marvin6 Posts: 72
    I once had something similar happen to me only to find that the oil filter was a problem. Half the holes were not holes, but were solid so the oil couldn't pass through. May be worth the effort to replace the oil filter (a few dollars) to rule it out. Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    Well the oil pump does not determine oil pressure, only oil flow. The tightness of your bearing clearances determines oil pressure for the most part. I suspect, just on a guess, that something might be wrong with your rebuild; other possibilities would be a bad oil sending unit (false reading) or a stuck oil pressure relief valve (behaving as if the oil filter were clogged).

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  • marvin6marvin6 Posts: 72
    I concur with your assessment. I was giving the benefit of the doubt to rebuild job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    Always good to check the simpler things first but given how the oil pressure drops as the engine warms up---that's not a good sign, and it eliminates things like too thick an oil in a cold engine causing air to be sucked into the oil pump. That would cause low oil pressure from the get-go.

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  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    well i just purchased the timing housing for my 99 camaro the one i had was damaged where the oil pump goes. hope this fixes the problem with the car :confuse:
  • trail03trail03 Posts: 21
    The tightness on the bearing clearances determines oil pressure where are those located at i did not put the engine together. Everything in the car is new the cover housing the pump oil,filter,and the oil is 10-30. I realy need help :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,283
    Don't touch it! Take it back to whoever built it.

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